Cover: Mick Lovatt on the first ascent of "Safe As Milk" (E7/6c) at Craig Dorys in Pen Llyn, England (Photo Credit: Jethro Kiernan). Learn more about Pen Llyn in Paul Pritchard's entertaining recollection of climbing there as he reviews the new guidebook. 

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Achievements

Light Weight Baby - The Coming of Age of Ben Cossey
By Dave Barnes

Australian climber Ben Cossey overcomes himself and imposter syndrome and ticks off the hardest climb in Mount Arapiles: Light Weight Baby.

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Editorial

​If you've been following Common Climber, you may notice something different about this edition - it is now quarterly, covering July, August, September (we do have a big edition to keep you reading!)

Common Climber is in transition, but I don't yet know into what.
 
I've been on the sharp end of Common Climber since starting it in 2016... (with our wonderful Assistant Editor Dave Barnes joining the team in 2019.)  This passion project has been juggled with working a regular full time job, running a climbing-related business, raising a family, taking care of a home and life, and, of course, climbing.
 
Juggling works when you are fresh and there aren't too many balls in the air, but you know what happens when one more ball gets tossed in... Unfortunately, I have had one more ball tossed in... health challenges.

​Health challenges aren't new to me. For some reason, a few years before turning 40 the shit-hit-the-health-fan... over, and over, and over again. My body entered into some chaotic "health problem" universe that I've been teetering on since then - one foot in and one foot out. I have written about some of these challenges and how I struggled to keep climbing central in my life - and, frankly, how climbing helped keep me going. It still does.

​I'm grateful I've had a few reasonably healthy years since that shit-hit-the-fan moment, but now, my body has decided to re-enter the chaos. I am currently in the stressful stages of diagnosis, tests, doctor's appointments, reading and research, and the unknown. Something has to give.

Editor-in-Chief Stefani Dawn in 2023 at her home crag Red Rock Canyon, Nevada.

There are a number of things that mean a lot to me that I am having to step back from - but not quite stopping - to give myself some breathing room to make decisions. Shifting CC to quarterly is one of those. I love Common Climber and it deserves careful consideration of all the options on how to move forward.
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When I look at the wonderful contributions of this edition, it serves as a heart-warming reminder of where Common Climber has landed amongst our climbing community. What fun, creative, and adventurous stories! And, you can plan your next 'round-the-world adventure with this edition - and take some good reading along with you. (And don't forget our other travel editions and travel stories...).
 
More will be shared, as my health and next steps come into better focus. 
​
- Stef

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Adventure Travel Stories

Tonga - Tropical Rock
By Eileen Burnell

​Have you ever thought about holidaying on a remote tropical island, sun, sea, sand and a lot of tropical rock? If you have, then ‘Eua Island (pronounced aywa) could be your next rock-climbing destination. Known as the Friendly Islands the Kingdom of Tonga, which sits on the pacific ring of fire, ‘Eua is the second largest island and the closest to the main island of Tongatapu.

France - Adventures of Jorge
By Jorge Packer

​From climbing in the Alps, to deep water soloing, to cliffs high above the seas - France has it all. ​Jorge Packer and his wife Marion continue their climbing travels, this time to France. They hit Hieres-Sur-Amby, Pen Hir, Cassis, and Briançon.

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Aleo, Manali, India
By Pankaj Lagwal
​
Nestled in the majestic Himalayas, Aleo in Manali, India offers adventure for climbers of all levels - with a diverse range of routes, from gentle slabs to challenging multi-pitches. And, you get some incredible views. 

Whitewater Crocs
By Keith Bell

Overcoming a raging wildfire and bad coffee, two Aussie "crocks" ascend Whitewater Wall in Tasmania. (Colloquially, in Oz - that's Australia for those on the other side of the pond -crocks are aged, decrepit and broken-down things - including human beings.) 

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Special Feature - The Shot Seen 'Round the World

Mirage - Profile of a Climb and Photograph
By Dave Barnes

​Midweek I sat down for a video chat with Simon Carter, climbing photographer, guidebook author, and climber. Behind him were blue files, references for the thousands of shots and business files catalogued in metal drawers. There is a lens on the shelf. I had requested a meeting to discuss a photograph, that of Malcolm Matheson (HB) on Mirage (27/5.12d), on that Grampians cliff of monumental uberness, Taipan Wall.

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Featured Artist

Artist: Alex Mauss Design
Interview By Stefani Dawn

Alex Mauss is a graphic designer who loves rock climbing and the outdoors and celebrates those things in her work. What's wonderful about art is the artist's unique expression of common items and feelings we all know as rock climbers. As we study each piece, we get to connect to our passions again - but in a different side of the brain. It feels like a full brain-and-heart celebration!

We hope you enjoy these colorful, playful, and celebratory images of climbing and the amazing outdoors and get to know the artist who created them!

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Book Reviews

Freiheit
Book By Thomas Huber
Review By Dave Barnes

In FREIHEIT, Thomas Huber tells his life story, and it is like a speed train that is close to derailing. Each page kept me thinking, how does this dude keep his engine coaled up and his carriages buckled in, while proceeding with furious velocity up that mountain track he so often finds himself on? Thomas has swung ten lifetimes of ice axes, unfurled that BASE canopy, survived more rock fall, seen more tragedy, burned up more frequent flyers, and danced with transcendence, more than most intrepid folks do in one lifetime.  AND HE LIVES AMONGST US, STILL.

Pen Llŷn: The Most Dangerous Book in the World
Book By Pat Littlejohn and Mick Lovatt
​Review By Paul Pritchard

​There have been many contenders for the most dangerous book in the world: The Malleus Maleficarum, How to Cook a Human, The Protocols Of The Elders Of Zion, and Mein Kampf.
 
Well, for the rock climber, the Pen Llŷn Guide is right up there amongst them. Pen Llŷn is compiled by that legend of British sea cliff climbing Pat Littlejohn and ‘The Perfect Man’ (yes, that’s his nickname - TPM) - Mick Lovatt. Within the pages of this book are the details and descriptions to the most terrifying rock climbs in the world.

A Light Through The Cracks: A Climber's Story
Book By Beth Rodden
Review By Dave Barnes

A number of books come across my desk each year.  I saw that Beth Rodden had completed her Climber’s Story and I had a vibe that this one would be something extra.  I was not wrong.