The ground rules for climbing location "yeahs" and "neahs"
  • Each location will receive an opinion rating - "It Rocks!", "Worth It," "Meh," or "Trash."
  • Each crag has its own personality with unique advantages and challenges, which are highlighted.
  • It is tempting to list “beautiful” as a “yeah,” but that is true for a lot of crags. I allude to beauty and scenery in the summary. You can also (sometimes) tell by the photo. If the place is a dump, then that will be listed in the “neahs” and rated as "Meh" or "Trash.
Summary
City of Rocks and Castle Rocks are located in southern Idaho near the tiny town of Almo. Composed of granite outcroppings, they have incredible other-worldly vistas. There are mazes of well-marked trails that meander in the tree-covered valleys between the rocks. The rock orientations allow for sunny or shaded climbing depending on the need. Yes, this place is very beautiful!

Grades, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
Castle Rocks was more recently developed so the climb grades tend to be more in line with modern (outdoor) grades. City of Rocks can have variable grades and some occasional hit-or-miss sandbagging (often this occurs with "easier" grade trad climbs), but it is not too bad. To be on the safe side, you can bump it up a grade (if it says 5.8, plan on 5.9).

Bolt distances can be run out in the City but less so in Castle.  Newer (after 2000) bolted routes in both locations tend to be less run out.

A single guidebook does not always provide the critical information you need for climbs here, so use multiple guidebooks AND supplementary resources (such as Mountain Project). Also use your head in the planning. Many climbs require two-rope rappels, but guidebooks do not always say so. If the climb is 200 feet, and your rope is 60 meters, you will need two ropes to rappel (not all climbs have an intermediate rappel anchor, and the guidebooks may not be clear about this).  In general, it is safer to use a 70 meter rope here (distances for slab climbing are visually deceptive. Slab climbing uses a lot of rope).

Guidebooks for the City and Castle are below (as mentioned above multiple guidebooks are recommended):
Camping
Multiple camping options are nearby. Camping in the park itself does not have running water at the sites (you have to get it from a couple different spots and haul it to your site. Be aware that water gets turned off for the winter!). There are pit-style bathrooms in the park. Some in-park sites offer shade and neat ambience with rocks. Others are hot and sun-exposed on warmer days.

The nearby Smoky Mountain campground has all the amenities (water, electricity, bathrooms, showers, and cell reception. Also be aware that water and bathrooms are shut down here in the winter.). You can pay for showers here (pay as a day pass for the facilities, using the deposit box on the road to the campground). Showers are also available a Tracy's General Store.

To reserve a site go to: http://www.reserveamerica.com/camping/city-of-rock-national-reserve/r/campgroundDetails.do?contractCode=ID&parkId=315044

There is walk-in, no-reservation camping near Castle Rocks.

There are primitive (free) camping options on BLM land past/above the Smokey Mountain Campground and outside of the park boundaries. A higher clearance vehicle is recommended to access these areas.
 
​Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
  • This isn’t the typical slabby-cracky granite. Yes, there are cracks (that are, fortunately, nicely protectable). Yes, there is plenty of slab. But, there are also great, interesting face climbs due to the unique history, minerology, and erosion of the rock. Apparently this granite is some of the oldest exposed granite in the nation, which has allowed it to weather in a way that makes it more featured than other granite climbing areas (hence the nice face climbing). There is an excellent variety of climbing styles here (crack, slab, face, flakes). 

Yeahs
  • Camping options are nearby and they have amenities (see camping above).
  • There is a nice, developed hot spring in Almo. The facility has several large pools with varying temperatures. There is an entrance fee.
  • The rock is high quality in most places (not crumbly). If a route hasn't been climbed in a while, there may be a thin layer of grime as the granite naturally decomposes, but it can be cleaned off as you go up (maybe not great to do on a hard climb!)
  • There are a large number of sport and trad climbs in various grades.
  • There are multi-pitch climbs (many are not more than 2 pitches), but a few 3+ pitch climbs do exist and they are fun (so can't really put it as a "neah").
  • Areas and trails are well-marked in both parks.
 
Neahs
  • Like most areas worth visiting, it can get busy on holidays and weekends. At busy times it can be hard to find camping in the designated areas. Parking near the crags can also be a challenge on busy days. Sometimes you have to park along the side of the road and walk.
  • Hmmm, having a hard time thinking of neahs – perhaps limited multi-pitch, but as described above, they do exist…
 

Opinion Rating
It Rocks!

Photos and beta

Resources: Areas closed to climbing - Access Fund: http://www.opengate.org/access-fund-blog/2016/08/navigating-access-at-city-rocks-and-castle-rocks-.html