"Morning, boys. Welcome to the pack station," JP drawled, his cowboy accent unmistakable. We all shook hands and gave each other half-caffeinated nods. Our brightly colored and synthetic climbing clothes felt out of place amidst the flannel, denim, and leather. JP continued, “Well, just bring yer stuff over and we’ll get goin’."
We sluggishly shuttled duffels over to our mule, the one and only “Patches." Patches was a beautiful gal who, impressively, didn’t seem to mind one bit that we were loading her up with nine days of climbing and camping gear. After a few more minutes of ritualistic gear juggling, we set off down a sandy alpine trail that crunched like kitty litter under our shoes, a noise ubiquitous with the High Sierra. Life, for once, was simple and our presence wasn’t marred by distraction.
We sluggishly shuttled duffels over to our mule, the one and only “Patches." Patches was a beautiful gal who, impressively, didn’t seem to mind one bit that we were loading her up with nine days of climbing and camping gear. After a few more minutes of ritualistic gear juggling, we set off down a sandy alpine trail that crunched like kitty litter under our shoes, a noise ubiquitous with the High Sierra. Life, for once, was simple and our presence wasn’t marred by distraction.
Our horsepacker, his two horses, and our horse Patches. (Photo Credit: Zach Lovell)
After years of adventures in far-flung corners of the world, Japhy Dhungana, Rainbow Weinstock, and I were craving an odyssey that didn’t require a passport. We turned our gaze to the Sierra, a majestic playground in our relative backyard. It turns out that some clichéd wisdom holds true, and while “you don’t have to go far to find happiness” might sound like a trite motto on a vacation rental’s wall, it proved to be a genuine mantra as we discovered the wild beauty and serenity of more local mountains. While we found quality new routes, some of which up to 5.12, the comradery, laughter, and unexpected mishaps painted memories equally as vivid as the splitter cracks.
We got our first glimpses into our trip’s arena, the Miter basin, after several miles of hiking from the trailhead. Granite spires soared above vibrant meadows and we uncontrollably started charting lines up the apparent crack systems. The babbling streams that wandered through the boulders and tall grasses was our soundtrack, a symphony of noise only nature could compose. When we reached our camp location, our horse packer unloaded our gear, we gave Patches some head scratches, and they began the long trudge back to the trailhead. It was just the three of us in our version of paradise.
We got our first glimpses into our trip’s arena, the Miter basin, after several miles of hiking from the trailhead. Granite spires soared above vibrant meadows and we uncontrollably started charting lines up the apparent crack systems. The babbling streams that wandered through the boulders and tall grasses was our soundtrack, a symphony of noise only nature could compose. When we reached our camp location, our horse packer unloaded our gear, we gave Patches some head scratches, and they began the long trudge back to the trailhead. It was just the three of us in our version of paradise.
Japhy Dhungana, Rainbow Weinstock, and author Zach Lovell (behond the camera) scope out climbs in the Miter Basin, Sierra Nevada range, California. (Photo Credit: Zach Lovell)
Our vertical exploration first began with what we would ultimately name “Sky Blue Spire," a 700-foot high tower gifting snaking cracks up an otherwise blank headwall. We named our route Sapphire Crack, and while our aims were to make it a warm-up day, our appetite for the best cracks steered us into a more challenging route.
Japhy Dhungana climbing "Sapphire Crack" on Sky Blue Spire. (Photo Credit: Zach Lovell)
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ABOVE SKY BLUE SPIRE: Click to enlarge photo and view caption (Photo Credits: Zach Lovell photos 1 & 2; Rainbow Weinstock, photo 3)
That night, we were visited by 11 untethered horses, unrelated entirely to our beloved Patches, who decided our campsite was the best spot for their 3 a.m. mountain rave. Hoofs pummeled the dirt terrifyingly close to our tents, shaking the ground so hard we could feel the rumble in our ears. Our efforts to shoo the horses off proved futile; they were there to stomp around until they were done. The planned rest and scouting day was even more so needed, given that our campsite hosted the horse dance club social for over two hours.
After ample rest, the trip crescendoed into two back-to-back days establishing new climbs on a stunning formation we named “Sky Blue Diamond," a 900-foot feature distinctively shaped like a diamond with a stupa-shaped summit block. As three climbers who’ve spent a significant amount of their adulthood on the Longs Peak Diamond in Colorado, it felt fitting that we found a feature with such a similar aesthetic in an entirely different mountain range.
After ample rest, the trip crescendoed into two back-to-back days establishing new climbs on a stunning formation we named “Sky Blue Diamond," a 900-foot feature distinctively shaped like a diamond with a stupa-shaped summit block. As three climbers who’ve spent a significant amount of their adulthood on the Longs Peak Diamond in Colorado, it felt fitting that we found a feature with such a similar aesthetic in an entirely different mountain range.
Approaching Sky Blue Diamond, a formation the team named after a similar looking formation in Colorado, Longs Peak Diamond. (Photo Credit: Zach Lovell)
Rainbow Weinstock climbing "Altared State", a first ascent on Sky Blue Diamond, Sierra Nevada, California. (Photo Credit: Zach Lovell)
The first gem we unearthed was Altared State, a continuous crack system that was mostly a hand crack along with a more challenging pitch of a gently overhanging finger crack in a corner.
The following day, with gas still in the tank, we aimed for a more aggressive line-up, the imposing shield. Stupa Troopers ended up having multiple difficult pitches, ultimately becoming our most difficult climb of the trip. As we crawled onto the summit blocks, we were congratulated with a hail storm, though it was a welcome alternative to the wildfire smoke.
The following day, with gas still in the tank, we aimed for a more aggressive line-up, the imposing shield. Stupa Troopers ended up having multiple difficult pitches, ultimately becoming our most difficult climb of the trip. As we crawled onto the summit blocks, we were congratulated with a hail storm, though it was a welcome alternative to the wildfire smoke.
ABOVE: Click to enlarge photo and view caption (Photo Credits: Zach Lovell photo 1, Rainbow Weinstock photo 3)
We climbed one final first ascent on our trip, with a friendlier route we named The Pen is Miter than the Sword, located on the "Miter," which has long been a popular peak for scramblers with a photogenic north ridge.
After four new routes, our cups had been filled and we spent the final stormy days of our trip enjoying each other’s company and some introspective time, which sometimes feels like a rarity on objective-focused missions.
Our horse packer and Patches came in the afternoon before our exit day, regaling us with whiskey-inspired stories from the dusty trail, a world far removed from ours. We all hiked out together, saving one last apple for Patches back at the station.
After four new routes, our cups had been filled and we spent the final stormy days of our trip enjoying each other’s company and some introspective time, which sometimes feels like a rarity on objective-focused missions.
Our horse packer and Patches came in the afternoon before our exit day, regaling us with whiskey-inspired stories from the dusty trail, a world far removed from ours. We all hiked out together, saving one last apple for Patches back at the station.
ABOVE: Click to enlarge photo and view caption (Photo Credits: Zach Lovell)
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Trip Summary
First Ascent: Sky Blue Spire, Sapphire Crack (700ft, 5.11D)
First Ascent: Sky Blue Diamond, Altared State (900ft, 5.12A)
First Ascent: Sky Blue Diamond, Stupa Troopers (900ft, 5.12C)
First Ascent: The Miter, The Pen is Miter than the Sword (600ft, 5.10)
First Ascent: Sky Blue Diamond, Altared State (900ft, 5.12A)
First Ascent: Sky Blue Diamond, Stupa Troopers (900ft, 5.12C)
First Ascent: The Miter, The Pen is Miter than the Sword (600ft, 5.10)
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Zach is a climber and skier who splits his time between the Sierra, the Rockies, Alaska, and the Alps. He's an IFMGA/UIAGM Certified Mountain Guide and was nominated for a Piolets d'Or in 2024, though he maintains that he's not yet worthy of such a nomination.
Instagram: @thealpinelife |
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