Cover Photo: Ben Cossey on Light Weight Baby in Arapiles, Australia. (Photo Credit: Simon Carter)
In May 2024, Australian climber, Ben Cossey completed the first ascent of Mount Arapiles' most difficult route, Light Weight Baby (34 AU/US 5.14c). This is the story of that send, but compiling Ben’s journey around the climb revealed so much more about the climber.
Light Weight Baby (LWB) is high up on the Bluffs and was bolted by Sean Myles in 1992. It was a visionary thing that the very best tried including Jerry Moffat and Fred Nicole. I spoke with Jerry who said, “I remember having a look at it and thinking it would be pretty futuristic and desperate.”
It would stay that way for thirty-two years.
That was until Ben Cossey’s completion of the line in 2024. The beginning of Ben’s relationship with LWB started way back. He first saw the route as a boy - a boy who was being romanced by the stone. It was a romance that included climbing the routes of past legends and admiring the charm of Arapiles. Ben was in awe. When he found Sean’s open project, he recognised where he could add his chord to the ballad of Arapiles climbing. He shared with me,
“The line was legendary before I’d even heard of it. Seeing it for the first time was a dream. Sean Myles had bolted it, Garth Miller had TRIED it, but no one had DONE it. It was at Arap’s, and Wolfgang had been to Arap’s, so obviously, it was like finding the bones of St. James.”
Ben’s fondness for Wolfgang Gullich is well known and to have a chance to walk in his shoes via establishing the hardest climb at the world’s greatest crag was a big draw to a great climber. What’s more, from LWB, Ben could see Punks in the Gym (AU 32/US 5.14a) down yonder, which added to his psyche.
It would stay that way for thirty-two years.
That was until Ben Cossey’s completion of the line in 2024. The beginning of Ben’s relationship with LWB started way back. He first saw the route as a boy - a boy who was being romanced by the stone. It was a romance that included climbing the routes of past legends and admiring the charm of Arapiles. Ben was in awe. When he found Sean’s open project, he recognised where he could add his chord to the ballad of Arapiles climbing. He shared with me,
“The line was legendary before I’d even heard of it. Seeing it for the first time was a dream. Sean Myles had bolted it, Garth Miller had TRIED it, but no one had DONE it. It was at Arap’s, and Wolfgang had been to Arap’s, so obviously, it was like finding the bones of St. James.”
Ben’s fondness for Wolfgang Gullich is well known and to have a chance to walk in his shoes via establishing the hardest climb at the world’s greatest crag was a big draw to a great climber. What’s more, from LWB, Ben could see Punks in the Gym (AU 32/US 5.14a) down yonder, which added to his psyche.
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In the years that followed, the project continued to manifest in Ben’s mind and world, but life had its way of making a straight line twisted. Ben first attempted LWB in 2008, the year he sent Serpentine (AU 29/US 5.13b). In 2015 he had a go again, this time with beta from Zac Vertrees. It was messy, but amongst the burly moves he saw possibilities. Then the mission began in earnest.
In 2021 Ben was out of the university meat grinder and spent a trip at the cliff working the moves, but was unable to link them. Come 2022, he fell on the last moves. In 2023 he experienced average conditions. Throughout the years, any time Arapiles was mentioned, Ben would focus his antenna attention to the route. It felt like an uncompleted task and it messed with his head. Life could not proceed without getting it done. Life has a habit of getting in the way of dreams. With international travel, Ben’s resume grew, but LWB remained behind. Ben's had gallant attempts on Woofy’s, Action Directe (35/9a/5.14d) in Germany and a one fall, no practice ascent of Ron Forcett’s, Masters Edge (E76C/24 – you fall or die sort of thing) in the Peak District of the UK. At home he established swashbuckling mega classics like, Groove Train in 2009 (33/5.14b) on Taipan Wall. Together with his brother Lee, Ben then pushed the Australian envelope with an ascent of Red Project (35/5.14d) in the Blue Mountains. Ben’s bouldering resume is pretty plum and there was his foray into Australian TV with Ninja Warrior appearances. What’s more, Ben is a husband and father, a professional Physiotherapist, and a climbing coach. |
Ben Cossey on "Action Direct" (9a/35/5.14d) in Germany. (Photo Credit: Ben Cossey Collection)
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Climbing can drive a person, but it can also humble. See, Ben had imposter syndrome. He has developed his climbing with a great internal weight - self-doubt. The ghosts of "personal bests" were metaphored in Ben’s unsuccessful attempts on Action Directe leaving him feeling like he doesn't hold the gravitas to be amongst the greats of climbing.
These added to the prolonged journey back to Arapiles and to honing his commitment to completing LWB. In time he realised that he needed to hide his jokester and reduce time climbing with people who distracted him from the training required to climb a project like this. LWB's history, and the calibre of people who had attempted it, made him feel not deserving. The mental maze of climbing can sometimes be a drag.
These added to the prolonged journey back to Arapiles and to honing his commitment to completing LWB. In time he realised that he needed to hide his jokester and reduce time climbing with people who distracted him from the training required to climb a project like this. LWB's history, and the calibre of people who had attempted it, made him feel not deserving. The mental maze of climbing can sometimes be a drag.
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Ben has been living the hard edge of climbing but of all his previous experiences sending - or not sending - LWB hung heavy in his consciousness. It was personally important for him to complete the climb.
Ben committed to the little steps - less social climbing and more specific training for the project. He also looked internally, mentally. He began to jettison his perceived victimhood and explore the liberties of being driven. This change was seen by others with his creation of a training wall to simulate the project’s moves. Ben was experiencing growth and transcendence in the process. His brother, Lee says of this time. “Ben’s battle with worthiness was a force of will. He carved a training path that was good to watch. I could see he was playing his own game, and he began to shape his thinking for the project and his body on the training simulator at home.” Like us all, Ben is not getting any younger, so he committed to train smart. He shared, “Historically I’ve been one to piss my time up the wall as if I have a never-ending spring of longevity and youth. Today I guard my time more than I’d used to and for this climb in particular.” The actual climb is 15 meters (50 feet) of steep Arapiles baby bottom slapping. He described his home simulator which he constructed after his trip to Arapiles last year. |
Ben Cossey training at home in Blackheath, Blue Mountains, Australia. (Photo Credit: Phil Sage)
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“I simulated the LWB moves down low, and this linked into another boulder problem that was similar in style to part of the headwall. Then I would downclimb a bit and do another simulator that was very similar to the final boulder where I had fallen a number of times. I split the three different boulders up and did intervals sessions for a few blocks of training. As I progressed on them, I would add a weight vest. Then, I ticked the whole boulder and progressively was able to do it complete with a vest for 3 x 5 laps.” Ben included finger boarding and some snatchy stuff on a campus board.
Ben was no longer lost in the noise, and through his training sessions, began to find his balance. Living in the shadow of past greats began to dissipate. He was ready to let loose the froth dog.
It’s a bit of a stretch between Blackheath and Arapiles but Ben had travelled far for routes before and a mission to Arapiles always felt like he was coming home. He framed it like this,
“Like a lot of routes at Arapiles you get a very tangible feeling of time, (im)permanence, the agelessness of the rock and area, the agefullness of my own mortal bones. The route had witnessed pre-human history and everything before and since, so I just love being up there and learning what it has to teach.”
The climb is protected by the original dyna-bolts placed by Sean - with no gear required - a straight-up classic Arapilian sport route. With the experience gained in previous attempts, combined with the fitness gained from his home simulator, the moves became more realistic and so did Ben’s confidence.
The morning of the send he made two stove top espressos, threw in a raw egg and mixed in BCAAs, Creatine and Beta-Alinine. Adding some cold water, he smashed them down followed by a protein shake. He was good to go and began to trudge towards the Ali’s Chains and onwards to his destiny. I asked him what he was thinking?
“Have I warmed up enough? How should I finish my warm-up? Will the breeze in Central Gully make it around the front of the bluffs? Will it be dewy or just spoogy and will I luck-out and get the added burden of a breeze?”
It was quiet up there that morning. It was just Ben and his road trip buddy, George Eddy. George shared the moment.
“Ben’s vibe was psyched. He had been dreaming of completing this mega project for so long! He was basically foaming out of his mouth.”
Ben remembers looking out at the road below and imagining his younger self looking back as he drove away in previous years after his attempts on Sean’s project, hoping to one day do it. Here he was again. Ben had become forensic, naming sections to break the route down, the babies bottom, the fridge, and the baby’s skull. Looking up at the route he calculated movements. “I knew if I could hug the left side of the fridge and get my mitt on the base of the crack, it’d be on for a possible send.”
Climbing hard is often a collaboration of minds. Ben drew on friends who had had a crack at the climb. “Zac Vertrees had shared his beta with me on the low section involving the baby’s skull. That was super helpful and I’m eternally grateful for his efforts figuring it out.”
Ben was no longer lost in the noise, and through his training sessions, began to find his balance. Living in the shadow of past greats began to dissipate. He was ready to let loose the froth dog.
It’s a bit of a stretch between Blackheath and Arapiles but Ben had travelled far for routes before and a mission to Arapiles always felt like he was coming home. He framed it like this,
“Like a lot of routes at Arapiles you get a very tangible feeling of time, (im)permanence, the agelessness of the rock and area, the agefullness of my own mortal bones. The route had witnessed pre-human history and everything before and since, so I just love being up there and learning what it has to teach.”
The climb is protected by the original dyna-bolts placed by Sean - with no gear required - a straight-up classic Arapilian sport route. With the experience gained in previous attempts, combined with the fitness gained from his home simulator, the moves became more realistic and so did Ben’s confidence.
The morning of the send he made two stove top espressos, threw in a raw egg and mixed in BCAAs, Creatine and Beta-Alinine. Adding some cold water, he smashed them down followed by a protein shake. He was good to go and began to trudge towards the Ali’s Chains and onwards to his destiny. I asked him what he was thinking?
“Have I warmed up enough? How should I finish my warm-up? Will the breeze in Central Gully make it around the front of the bluffs? Will it be dewy or just spoogy and will I luck-out and get the added burden of a breeze?”
It was quiet up there that morning. It was just Ben and his road trip buddy, George Eddy. George shared the moment.
“Ben’s vibe was psyched. He had been dreaming of completing this mega project for so long! He was basically foaming out of his mouth.”
Ben remembers looking out at the road below and imagining his younger self looking back as he drove away in previous years after his attempts on Sean’s project, hoping to one day do it. Here he was again. Ben had become forensic, naming sections to break the route down, the babies bottom, the fridge, and the baby’s skull. Looking up at the route he calculated movements. “I knew if I could hug the left side of the fridge and get my mitt on the base of the crack, it’d be on for a possible send.”
Climbing hard is often a collaboration of minds. Ben drew on friends who had had a crack at the climb. “Zac Vertrees had shared his beta with me on the low section involving the baby’s skull. That was super helpful and I’m eternally grateful for his efforts figuring it out.”
ABOVE (click on photos to enlarge): Ben Cossey on Light Weight Baby in Arapiles, Australia (Photo Credit: Simon Carter)
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Ben tentatively moved forward controlling movement, one moment at a time. Breathe. There was a place that made him nervous. Pant. “When I stuck the low crux and made a clip, I had the headwall ahead of me, I had fallen here a number of times - what was I to do other than plow forward with all of my body and soul.”
He made light of managing moments like these.
“I Imagine I’m escaping a POW camp with Howitzers and machine gun fire exploding in all directions. You’re not gonna stop and throw up your hands and say, “Take.”
Ben slapped and weaved his way through multiple boulder problems that would floor most of us, but not Ben, not this time. Approaching the top section, he could feel the burn and doubt began to well.
He made light of managing moments like these.
“I Imagine I’m escaping a POW camp with Howitzers and machine gun fire exploding in all directions. You’re not gonna stop and throw up your hands and say, “Take.”
Ben slapped and weaved his way through multiple boulder problems that would floor most of us, but not Ben, not this time. Approaching the top section, he could feel the burn and doubt began to well.
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Meanwhile below, George was giving solid encouragement as Ben matched his feet on a smear on the headwall before the last move. In a video of the send George looks jittery with excitement, the kind of belayer you want on a hard send - someone who wants to see the climber’s success as much as the climber himself. Above him, Ben’s brain was gunning.
“I had a plan of going for the final edge and catching it opposed to passively working towards it. As it happened, I couldn’t wrap my thumb over when I caught it, going with the intention of mauling it in full crimp prompted a very active snatch and a desperate reel-in of the edge.” Ben’s momentum slowed but he was all in and he imagined pulling Bluff Minor down into the paddock below. He stuck it. Success! His doubt now slain, Ben glanced at the anchor and thought, “This is it, Big Dog, you’ve done it!” Apparently, he had a moment where he had to remind himself that it was over and that he had managed not to fall off. “Are you sure, Ben?” said his psyche. “I’m pretty sure,” replied his reason. The afterglow of the send stayed with Ben all the way down the chains, back to The Pines, into the car with George, and all the way to the bar at Nati Pub. I asked Ben for his post thoughts on his send. “I’m really glad I stuck it out and tied a little bow around the story of the route (that I had in my head anyway). Now I can go nuke my ACLs playing for the Natimuk Rams.” Local climber, Simon Mentz has added: |
Ben Cossey at Nati Pub catching up on carbs and celebrating his send of "Light Weight Baby" with friend and belayer George Eddy. (Photo Credit: George Eddy)
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Now that Ben’s finally ticked LWB and given it the grade of 34, I think he is ready for a game with the Rams. That will be a chance to see what a Wimmera grade 35 feels like.”
Others have shared their praise for Ben’s deliverance of LWB. His brother Lee, said of Ben’s send,
This is the first time I’ve seen him where he has really been at peace with a project.” And to his brother he said this, “Well done, brother. Good work on getting it finished.”
And from Jerry Moffit in the UK,
Big congratulations to Ben on doing Light Weight Baby. I love those short desperate routes rather than a long endurance slog. The photos of his climb are a reminder of just how good the rock is. I absolutely loved my time at Arapiles and working my way through some of the classics. Once again, well done Ben.”
As a post note to the difficulty. As yet Light Weight Baby has not had a repeat, but it is cause for discussion – in Ben’s favour, as Zac Vertrees observes,
I have played on the route a couple of times and it's clearly a step up for Ben (who has climbed two 35’s and was close to sending Action Directe). Maybe a grade 34 Arapiles route is harder to climb then something at Diamond Falls for Ben so maybe 35 or even 36 are possible.”
For the moment Light Weight Baby is a heavy weight in Australian climbing. Ben Cossey, a climber who once thought of himself as unworthy has joined his hero, Wolfgang, having pushed the margin of difficulty at the Mecca of Australian climbing. Most importantly, Ben still loves cranking amongst the glowing stone and the shimmering wheat plains and that is the best flag a devoted climber can wave.
And Ben has a message for others sporting bleeding knuckles on their projects,
“Some things take time. If you want to work towards a route/boulder/goal, just set it in motion - very often momentum will be disrupted or your psyche will wane but if there is the desire and a consistency to your progress, you’ll get a long way over time. Not everything happens in a wham, bam, send-explosion, like it might seem on PooTube or InstaScam. Don’t abandon yourself, nor the things that make you sparkle. Arapiles makes me sparkle - I feel like a little glittery dumpling at that place.”
Let your light shine, Ben. In doing so, you light the way for others.
And Ben has a message for others sporting bleeding knuckles on their projects,
“Some things take time. If you want to work towards a route/boulder/goal, just set it in motion - very often momentum will be disrupted or your psyche will wane but if there is the desire and a consistency to your progress, you’ll get a long way over time. Not everything happens in a wham, bam, send-explosion, like it might seem on PooTube or InstaScam. Don’t abandon yourself, nor the things that make you sparkle. Arapiles makes me sparkle - I feel like a little glittery dumpling at that place.”
Let your light shine, Ben. In doing so, you light the way for others.
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Leight Weight Baby BETA
By Ben Cossey
Pop to buggy slot and a match. Pounces to a melon shaped, matchable pinch blob, from here you get your feet high and…Roll out to a positive but burley-ly placed under-cling edge and walk your feet into a spread eagle back-step position and crank in on the under-cling. Reach, with the intension of grabbing and imploding the hold referred to as The Baby’s Skull. It’s a funny bald pinch that some people are able to “guppy grip” (reverse meat-wrap) but I just squeeze the wiz out of it. Then you walk your feet up on to the melon and slap on to the side of the fridge, which is burely-ish and radicle. This is where you realise not all rock is created equal as you have a close up and very cuddly and intimate position. Here you actual engage Warren Harding mode, kneepad in-toe, and sink a knee scum and reach to the base of the seam. This ends the first boulder.
From the base of the seam, you have a tension clip and ok holds. Ticktack up before doing a 1987 Dominique Wilkins Human Highlight Film Tomahawk Go-Again over a lip-lette to an edge where you clip the last bolt. Then you can rest on a spraggy right hand draggy pock-type thing and the edge before…
The last boulder. Going left hand to a positive but thin seamy edge and going to a smooth Arapilisian seam boner in the crack. A tension/smeary foot swop leads you to the last move. A hack up and let to a positive but slightly hard to hit croozily encrusted edge - on linkage, a good cue for success was to try and pull Bluff Minor down on to my head by snagging and trying to finger curl the cliff down killing everybody with 40 miles. It worked. The edge didn’t break, Bluff Minor didn’t crumble, and I stuck the edge.
Then you kinda barn door your left foot up and out to stand on an edge and reach to a big flatty and toddle the easy three moves to the anchors where my trusted black screw gate had been waiting ever since I put him on back in 2020 - a little faded but happy to see me.
From the base of the seam, you have a tension clip and ok holds. Ticktack up before doing a 1987 Dominique Wilkins Human Highlight Film Tomahawk Go-Again over a lip-lette to an edge where you clip the last bolt. Then you can rest on a spraggy right hand draggy pock-type thing and the edge before…
The last boulder. Going left hand to a positive but thin seamy edge and going to a smooth Arapilisian seam boner in the crack. A tension/smeary foot swop leads you to the last move. A hack up and let to a positive but slightly hard to hit croozily encrusted edge - on linkage, a good cue for success was to try and pull Bluff Minor down on to my head by snagging and trying to finger curl the cliff down killing everybody with 40 miles. It worked. The edge didn’t break, Bluff Minor didn’t crumble, and I stuck the edge.
Then you kinda barn door your left foot up and out to stand on an edge and reach to a big flatty and toddle the easy three moves to the anchors where my trusted black screw gate had been waiting ever since I put him on back in 2020 - a little faded but happy to see me.