The ground rules for climbing location "yeahs" and "neahs"
Summary
Spring Mountain is located about 4 hours due east of Portland, Oregon between Pendleton and La Grande. The area is located at about 4600’ elevation in the Blue Mountains. Because of its elevation and northern latitude, late spring through early fall are the best times to climb here, otherwise it can be snowy.
Spring Mountain is fairly isolated and, unless you live in eastern Oregon or southern Washington, it may be best to plan on an over night stay. There are plenty of places to camp and enough excellent routes to fill a multi-day visit.
The crag offers high quality trad and bolted sport climbs with anchors. The approach is an easy 5 to 7-minute walk on a trail.
Directions
From I-84, take exit 243 "Summit Rd, Mt. Emily" and turn north onto Summit Rd. Cross over the Interstate and go about 8 miles on the well-maintained gravel road FS-31. When you see a sign that says Whitman Route Overlook, turn left at the next road (FS-3109). Go about 1-mile, turn right (north) onto FS-3109-025/026 at a grassy meadow. Drive on this road about 1/2 mile until it dead-ends at a turn around blocked by several large boulders.
Ratings, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
The area offers a diversity of modern-rated climbs from 5.5 to 5.12, with a good distribution in the lower grades. The majority of climbs in the moderate 5.9 – 5.10 range. The area is well bolted with anchors.
The local guidebooks are:
Camping
Free primitive camping is available near the crag. It is encouraged to use already “developed” sites to protect the beautiful ecosystem and environment. A “developed” site is located near the intersection of FS-3109-025/026. There is a "thin" dirt road that goes into the trees across from the gravel crag access road. There is room for multiple cars and multiple tents. The site has a place to hang food for bear protection, as well as, a fire pit. Additional free camping is located past the Whitman Route, or in a few areas as you enter the National Forest land from the interstate.
A pit toilet is available about a mile past the crag turn off at the Whitman Route Overlook, otherwise plan to adequately bury your waste (at least 6” deep).
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
Spring Mountain consists of a long wall of (mostly) solid andesite rock, which is a close relative to basalt. The rock lends itself to a nice variety of face climbing from juggy ledges, to technical crimps, to bulges, roofs, and full-on overhangs. There are also a some fun crack climbs and a few slabby faces. The friction is quite good, but the rock can get shiny (slick) in a few spots.
Yeahs
Neahs
Opinion Rating
Worth It!
I chose “Worth It” instead of “It Rocks” because, although Spring Mounting is really wonderful, there are two main limitations: (1) The size of the crag relative to it’s remote location; and (2) The 100’ height of the cliff does not lend itself to longer, multi-pitch climbs. It’s not really a “destination” climbing location (e.g. make the long drive, buy the plane ticket, and take vacation time), however, if you are passing through north-eastern Oregon, or, if you live within a 5-hour drive check it out for a long-weekend!
Additional Resources
http://www.portlandrockclimbs.com/ne-oregon-rock-climbs/spring-mountain.htm
- Each location will receive an opinion rating - "It Rocks!", "Worth It," "Meh," or "Trash."
- Each crag has its own personality with unique advantages and challenges, which are highlighted.
- It is tempting to list “beautiful” as a “yeah,” but that is true for a lot of crags. I allude to beauty and scenery in the summary. You can also (sometimes) tell by the photo. If the place is a dump, then that will be listed in the “neahs” and rated as "Meh" or "Trash.
Summary
Spring Mountain is located about 4 hours due east of Portland, Oregon between Pendleton and La Grande. The area is located at about 4600’ elevation in the Blue Mountains. Because of its elevation and northern latitude, late spring through early fall are the best times to climb here, otherwise it can be snowy.
Spring Mountain is fairly isolated and, unless you live in eastern Oregon or southern Washington, it may be best to plan on an over night stay. There are plenty of places to camp and enough excellent routes to fill a multi-day visit.
The crag offers high quality trad and bolted sport climbs with anchors. The approach is an easy 5 to 7-minute walk on a trail.
Directions
From I-84, take exit 243 "Summit Rd, Mt. Emily" and turn north onto Summit Rd. Cross over the Interstate and go about 8 miles on the well-maintained gravel road FS-31. When you see a sign that says Whitman Route Overlook, turn left at the next road (FS-3109). Go about 1-mile, turn right (north) onto FS-3109-025/026 at a grassy meadow. Drive on this road about 1/2 mile until it dead-ends at a turn around blocked by several large boulders.
Ratings, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
The area offers a diversity of modern-rated climbs from 5.5 to 5.12, with a good distribution in the lower grades. The majority of climbs in the moderate 5.9 – 5.10 range. The area is well bolted with anchors.
The local guidebooks are:
- Northwest Oregon Rock guidebook by Tim Olson
- Rock Climbing Oregon, by Adam Bolf and Ben Ruef.
- Information and routes can also be found on Mountain Project at https://www.mountainproject.com/v/spring-mountain/106735075.
Camping
Free primitive camping is available near the crag. It is encouraged to use already “developed” sites to protect the beautiful ecosystem and environment. A “developed” site is located near the intersection of FS-3109-025/026. There is a "thin" dirt road that goes into the trees across from the gravel crag access road. There is room for multiple cars and multiple tents. The site has a place to hang food for bear protection, as well as, a fire pit. Additional free camping is located past the Whitman Route, or in a few areas as you enter the National Forest land from the interstate.
A pit toilet is available about a mile past the crag turn off at the Whitman Route Overlook, otherwise plan to adequately bury your waste (at least 6” deep).
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
Spring Mountain consists of a long wall of (mostly) solid andesite rock, which is a close relative to basalt. The rock lends itself to a nice variety of face climbing from juggy ledges, to technical crimps, to bulges, roofs, and full-on overhangs. There are also a some fun crack climbs and a few slabby faces. The friction is quite good, but the rock can get shiny (slick) in a few spots.
Yeahs
- Lots of nicely bolted routes with anchors (we did run across a couple spinning bolts). There is enough here to keep you busy for a few solid days.
- The rock also allows for some nice traditional-gear lines.
- Short approach.
- An interesting variety of climbing styles/types, a little bit of slab, some crack, and interesting face climbing.
- The area is fairly remote, so it is generally quiet and the setting is more like wilderness.
- Free camping near the crag. You can drive to a pit toilet less than a mile away.
- There are lovely views at the tops of some climbs and boulders.
- It is clean so please keep it that way – remove your trash (do not burn it!), use the pit toilet for #2, etc.
Neahs
- The routes tend to be on the shorter side and the height of the cliff does not lend itself to long multi-itch routes.
- Amenities are a bit of a drive. You need to plan ahead.
- This is primitive camping. Bring your own water and all supplies.
- The area is a bit more isolated and in the wilderness, so it’s a longer drive. You also need to be bear-smart.
Opinion Rating
Worth It!
I chose “Worth It” instead of “It Rocks” because, although Spring Mounting is really wonderful, there are two main limitations: (1) The size of the crag relative to it’s remote location; and (2) The 100’ height of the cliff does not lend itself to longer, multi-pitch climbs. It’s not really a “destination” climbing location (e.g. make the long drive, buy the plane ticket, and take vacation time), however, if you are passing through north-eastern Oregon, or, if you live within a 5-hour drive check it out for a long-weekend!
Additional Resources
http://www.portlandrockclimbs.com/ne-oregon-rock-climbs/spring-mountain.htm
