Have you ever thought about holidaying on a remote tropical island, sun, sea, sand and a lot of tropical rock? If you have, then ‘Eua Island (pronounced aywa) could be your next rock-climbing destination. Known as the Friendly Islands the Kingdom of Tonga, which sits on the pacific ring of fire, ‘Eua is the second largest island and the closest to the main island of Tongatapu.
‘Eua has a population of around 5,000 and the tourist industry relies on whale watching and swimming with whales. This means the tourist season is short, starting in late June early July and ends in early October, depending on weather conditions. It also means ‘Eua is one of the least touristy islands in Tonga, or the pacific for that matter.
‘Eua was formed by uplift from movement of the Pacific and Tongan plates. The Eocene limestone that forms the climbing areas is sandwiched between young volcanic rock on the western side of the divide and older volcanic rock, on which the crags sit. On the eastern side of the divide, whales frolic close to shore, tropic birds, boobies, and frigates soar out over the cliffs. Fruit bats and parrots glide over the forest canopy.
‘Eua has a population of around 5,000 and the tourist industry relies on whale watching and swimming with whales. This means the tourist season is short, starting in late June early July and ends in early October, depending on weather conditions. It also means ‘Eua is one of the least touristy islands in Tonga, or the pacific for that matter.
‘Eua was formed by uplift from movement of the Pacific and Tongan plates. The Eocene limestone that forms the climbing areas is sandwiched between young volcanic rock on the western side of the divide and older volcanic rock, on which the crags sit. On the eastern side of the divide, whales frolic close to shore, tropic birds, boobies, and frigates soar out over the cliffs. Fruit bats and parrots glide over the forest canopy.
The base of Olu Beac Crag on ‘Eua Island in the Kingdom of Tonga (Photo Credit: Eileen Burnell)
We first learned of the potential for rock climbing on ‘Eua via Dr. Google. The information we found was collated by an American volunteer in Tonga, Jason Schneider. Jason had volunteered to go to the pacific islands for a couple of years, but had stipulated that the area must have some rock. He spent his free time exploring the climbing potential. Sadly, he had been unable to establish any climbs during the three years he was there. However, Jason was free with his information and knowledge of the island which helped us immensely.
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In 2016, armed with Jason’s information a small group of kiwi (New Zealander) climbers decided to visit ‘Eua. The idea was to look into the potential of establishing a winter climbing get away. When we arrived on ‘Eua and met the locals, we immediately started exploring the climbing possibilities.
After a few days living with the locals, the motivation changed from wanting to just climb, to wanting to help the local community and the economy. Within our group we discussed the possibility of establishing rock climbing on ‘Eua as a low impact, low investment tourism opportunity from which the local population could benefit. Ideas were bounced around. Climbing could create an extended tourist season expanding opportunities for locals by providing services like bike and scooter hire, cafes, guiding, rooms, and beyond. But, things are seldom that simple.... |
Author Eileen Burnell rides in an 'Eua taxi with fellow New Zealanders.
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The first few days of the trip we spent exploring the climbing possibilities at the south end of the island. This area is easily accessible by vehicle and is part of the King's estate. It is locally known as Lakufa’anga it is home to herds of wild horses, multitudes of seabird, and Maui’s Arch, a large natural arch popular with visitors. Legend has it that Maui’s arch was formed when the ancient God of Polynesia threw his spear from the middle of the Island, when the spear was removed, it was found to have created Maui’s Arch.
In this area, there are extensive cliffs that vary in height from around fifty to eighty metres (160-260 feet). Access would be by abseil. Even though climbing is seen as an adventure sport, it would have been a mistake to start climbing in Tonga here.
Our second reconnaissance mission was to Fangatava beach where there are extensive rock walls between 60-70 metres (200-230 feet) high, rising from the rainforest that runs along the back of the beach. The place is superb with numerous cliffs along the Fangatave escarpment. The rock is compact, solid limestone with several Tuffas and very few cracks.
Through our initial exploration we estimated the potential for over a hundred climbs spread over several areas, estimated grade range looked to be 18 - 25 (Ewebank system; 5.10a-5.11d, Yosemite decimal system). In order for ‘Eua to become a climbing destination, there needed to be a good selection of middle grade, easily accessible climbs, sufficient for a two-week climbing holiday.
In this area, there are extensive cliffs that vary in height from around fifty to eighty metres (160-260 feet). Access would be by abseil. Even though climbing is seen as an adventure sport, it would have been a mistake to start climbing in Tonga here.
Our second reconnaissance mission was to Fangatava beach where there are extensive rock walls between 60-70 metres (200-230 feet) high, rising from the rainforest that runs along the back of the beach. The place is superb with numerous cliffs along the Fangatave escarpment. The rock is compact, solid limestone with several Tuffas and very few cracks.
Through our initial exploration we estimated the potential for over a hundred climbs spread over several areas, estimated grade range looked to be 18 - 25 (Ewebank system; 5.10a-5.11d, Yosemite decimal system). In order for ‘Eua to become a climbing destination, there needed to be a good selection of middle grade, easily accessible climbs, sufficient for a two-week climbing holiday.
The King's horses (Photo Credit: Eileen Burnell)
From our initial discussions with Jason, and subsequently with the local tourist board, we had thought that climbing would be allowed everywhere and we were over the moon with the prospect of climbing at Fangatave.
As it turned out, there was a fly in the ointment - Fangatave is on the King's estate and his permission would be needed before we could climb there. This came as a bit of a shock.
There would now be issues to discuss and protocols to be followed, meetings were hurriedly arranged, firstly with the islands local tourism board and the King's representative on ‘Eua. We were now advised that we could climb anywhere on the island.......except Fangatave. This could mean that climbing in Tonga ended before it had started.
We urgently needed to follow up with the local 'Eua Tourist Association and the King’s estate manager to explain our intentions and the potential economic benefits over the long term. The meeting went well and everyone was enthusiastic about the possibility of increasing visitor numbers to 'Eua.
The following day the Kings 'Eua estate manager drove us out to Fangatave and showed us the boundaries and the restricted areas, the restricted areas are primarily associated with the fresh water supply, the pumping and storage systems and the solar power plant, apart from these areas we were free to explore - but not climb.
The King and his representatives were due in 'Eua for the annual agricultural and produce show on the following weekend. We were told there was the possibility of speaking with his representative. The meeting didn't happen, but as luck would have it we were staying in the same accommodation as the King’s representative. Over the next couple of days we had several casual conversations around the subject of climbing and the potential for adventure tourism on ‘Eua - it culminated with a promise of a meeting in Tongatapu on the following Friday.
All was not lost. Prior to departure of the King's retinue, we were given guarded permission to “explore the climbing potential” we took this as a positive sign - what better way to assess the potential than to bolt and climb a couple of routes.
The first climb on ‘Eua was Three Boys, an overhanging, 2-pitch climb around grade 21 (5.10c). This was quickly followed by Greg and Nathan's Breached as Bro, so named as a humpback whale breached just outside the reef during the first ascent. This area of the crag was then known as Whale Wall and would later yield some superb 3-star climbs such as Tavake and Tafua a’Puna.
As it turned out, there was a fly in the ointment - Fangatave is on the King's estate and his permission would be needed before we could climb there. This came as a bit of a shock.
There would now be issues to discuss and protocols to be followed, meetings were hurriedly arranged, firstly with the islands local tourism board and the King's representative on ‘Eua. We were now advised that we could climb anywhere on the island.......except Fangatave. This could mean that climbing in Tonga ended before it had started.
We urgently needed to follow up with the local 'Eua Tourist Association and the King’s estate manager to explain our intentions and the potential economic benefits over the long term. The meeting went well and everyone was enthusiastic about the possibility of increasing visitor numbers to 'Eua.
The following day the Kings 'Eua estate manager drove us out to Fangatave and showed us the boundaries and the restricted areas, the restricted areas are primarily associated with the fresh water supply, the pumping and storage systems and the solar power plant, apart from these areas we were free to explore - but not climb.
The King and his representatives were due in 'Eua for the annual agricultural and produce show on the following weekend. We were told there was the possibility of speaking with his representative. The meeting didn't happen, but as luck would have it we were staying in the same accommodation as the King’s representative. Over the next couple of days we had several casual conversations around the subject of climbing and the potential for adventure tourism on ‘Eua - it culminated with a promise of a meeting in Tongatapu on the following Friday.
All was not lost. Prior to departure of the King's retinue, we were given guarded permission to “explore the climbing potential” we took this as a positive sign - what better way to assess the potential than to bolt and climb a couple of routes.
The first climb on ‘Eua was Three Boys, an overhanging, 2-pitch climb around grade 21 (5.10c). This was quickly followed by Greg and Nathan's Breached as Bro, so named as a humpback whale breached just outside the reef during the first ascent. This area of the crag was then known as Whale Wall and would later yield some superb 3-star climbs such as Tavake and Tafua a’Puna.
Jean Jack on the 1st Ascent of "Tavake" (Photo Credit: Eileen Burnell)
We left 'Eau a few days later saying that we would return. We spent the intervening time negotiating an access agreement for climbers. These discussions were protracted, but eventually a access and a code of conduct for climbers were agreed with the King's Office. By the time of our second trip, all that remained was to implement a levee that would go to the Kings estate to help with the upkeep of the land.
Thanks to Eileen Burnell, Greg Jack, Sam Tatafu, Litani and Seini Taufa, and David Ratu-Mara, this is now in place. Without them we would probably still be in discussion. Sadly, in 2019, both Sam and Litani were lost at sea whilst crossing from ‘Eua to Tongatapu - a great loss for their families and Tonga.
Our third trip to the island was in May and June 2018, we had by the end of that trip collectively bolted and climbed twenty-seven routes, other climbers were now arriving from Australia, South America, Europe and Japan and a further twelve climbs were put up by those visitors. The following year, 2019 another twenty climbs were bolted and climbed.
Thanks to Eileen Burnell, Greg Jack, Sam Tatafu, Litani and Seini Taufa, and David Ratu-Mara, this is now in place. Without them we would probably still be in discussion. Sadly, in 2019, both Sam and Litani were lost at sea whilst crossing from ‘Eua to Tongatapu - a great loss for their families and Tonga.
Our third trip to the island was in May and June 2018, we had by the end of that trip collectively bolted and climbed twenty-seven routes, other climbers were now arriving from Australia, South America, Europe and Japan and a further twelve climbs were put up by those visitors. The following year, 2019 another twenty climbs were bolted and climbed.
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In 2018 Australian/Tongan climber Angie Scarfe-Johnson and Lee Cossey visited ‘Eua with The North Face to produce a video. Angie is part Tongan part Spanish and was here to climb but also reconnect with her pacific roots, the North Face video produced by Brett Williams called Pacific Lines can be found online along with other videos of our times in Tonga.
Climbing on ‘Eua shouldn’t be taken lightly, climbers need to be competent, there are limited medical facilities on the island and there is no one capable of mounting any form of rescue in the event of an emergency. With the exception of one climb, all routes are bolted using titanium glue-in bolts. At the time of writing, any climbs that require abseil back to the ground have a maximum pitch length of 30 metres. Even getting to ‘Eua can present the traveller with challenges - everything runs on island time, this includes ferries and inter-island flights. The main reason for the delays or interruptions to services is due to the weather and the occasional need for the ferry to be diverted to other services. Anyone visiting should factor this into their plans especially when heading for international flights. Accommodation and services on ‘Eua was always limited, but the cyclones in 2019 & 2020 caused severe damage to accommodations and infrastructure, as did the Tsunami following the Hunga Haʻapai eruption in 2022. Dining is generally done by the host unless you are self-catering. If you are self-catering you will need to provision in Nuku’alofa before going to ‘Eua. Whale season - July to October - is their main tourist season. During that time accommodation will be expensive. |
Getting provisions, like beer, require some planning ahead when you visit 'Eua, Tonga. (Photo Credit: Eileen Burnell)
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Helpful Information
- A guidebook is free to download from Facebook group Tropical Rock – ‘Eua Is, Tonga https://www.facebook.com/groups/986159234811952
- Eua ferry timetables are on fb page https://www.facebook.com/euaseatransport/
- Blue Water Retreat : [email protected]
- Kikos Place : [email protected]