COMMON CLIMBER
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  • Themed Editions
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      • Adaptive Climbing Photo Feature: Paradox Sports
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      • Blind Ambition Builds a World Class Climber: The Story of Jesse Dufton
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      • Mixed Climbing: My Answer to KT Syndrome
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      • The Unreasonable Man
    • Belaytionships Edition >
      • Featured Photographer: Charlie OlGrady-Kessner
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      • Zac the Interloper
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      • This page has been removed
      • I Am My Father's Son: Layton Bridwell
    • Big Wall Edition >
      • Book Review: Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • Featured Photographer: Matt Spohn
      • Grading Commitment
      • Hanging with the Monkeys, and Getting the Monkey Off My Back
      • It Was His Time: Brad Gobright Interview May 2019
      • John Middendorf : A Big Man for a Big Stone
      • Sébastien Berthe Free Climbs the Nose From the Ground Up
      • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
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      • AUSTRALIA - Photographer - Diego Perez
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      • Book Review - Climbing Rock
      • CHINA - From Yangshuo, to Getu, to Liming
      • FRANCE - Verdon in Winter
      • GREECE - Meteora
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      • MEXICO - La Huasteca
      • SPAIN - Artist - Karmelo Onate
      • UTAH - Maple Canyon: This One Makes You Taller
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      • A Tale of Oso Madre
      • Clayton Herrmann - Featured Photographer
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        • The Migrant Pom on Rysavy Ridge
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        • Fast Forward - Rysavy Ridge Revisited
      • The Three Sisters
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      • ARTIST: Shawn Lee
      • A Shift on Moonlight Buttress
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      • Feature Photographer: Bryan Sillorequez
      • Is Diversity in America Diverse?
      • MOVIE: People of Climbing:
      • Profile - Favia Dubyk
      • The Lineage
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      • Bouldering: JTree Made Me Do It
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      • Acopa Outdoors
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      • Expanding the Circle
      • Failure is Part of the Price: Rand Abbott Attempts the First Adaptive Lead Ascent of The Nose
      • Overcoming a Brain Tumor: WeighMyRack Founder Interview: Alison Dennis
      • Rising
      • The Mountain Path Book Review
    • Overcoming Boundaries >
      • Photographer - Brook Anderson
      • Profile - Louise Shepherd
      • Profile - Megan Banker
      • Profile - Shawn Axelrod
      • Rock Type 1
      • The Tape Job
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      • Editorial - Women's Edition
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      • Mt. Logan Solo
      • Photographer - Michelle Ranee Johnson
      • Profile - Caitlin Schokker
  • Writing
    • All Writings (List)
    • Topics >
      • Adaptive Climbing >
        • Adaptive Climbing Edition
        • El Capitan: Enock Glidden
        • Failure is Part of the Price: Rand Abbott Attempts the First Adaptive Lead Ascent of The Nose
        • Quinn Brett Interview
        • My Journey to Adaptive Rock Climbing
        • Planning for Mt. Rainier: Adaptive Climbing
        • Resources - Adaptive Climbing
        • Single Pitch Instructor Adaptive: It's About Climbing Independence
      • Alpine & Ice >
        • A Chamonix Initiation
        • California Still Has Untouched Climbing Wilderness
        • Elusive Ice - A Rare Tasmanian Treat
        • Ice Solo
        • Mt. Ogden Spanking
        • Mt. Whitney Whipping
        • My Common Alpine Epic
        • The Dru Derby >
          • Horses for Courses - The Dru Derby 1971
          • My Dru Derby
          • The North Face of the Dru - Chris Baxter
        • Vertical Ice Climbing in Ontario, Canada, eh?
      • Profiles >
        • Climberisms by Dylan Taylor
        • A - Shawn Axelrod - Overcoming Boundaries
        • B - Megan Banker - Plus-Sized Climbing Advocate
        • B - Wendy Bruere - More Than It Hurts
        • D - Favia Dubyk - American Ninja Warrior
        • F - Debbie Fowler - A N00bie Climber's Story
        • E - Ian Elliot - It's All Up From Here
        • H - Lindsey Hamm - The Hamminator
        • H - Sabine Pratt Hunziker - Little Red Riding Hood
        • M - Marisa Michael - Nutrition for Climbers
        • M - Josie McKee: Training the Mind for Joy
        • P - Dave Parry - Author Grit Blocs
        • S - Caitlin Schokker
        • S - Louise Shepherd - Aussie Legend
        • T - Mia Tucholke - IFMGA Mountain Guide
      • Comics >
        • Master and his Apprentice
        • Totem Pole 2082
      • CoVID and Climbing >
        • COVID Climbing Memes
        • CoVID-19 Remakes Our Lives
        • Dear Memory
        • From Couch to Lifting Couches
        • How to Climb and Avoid the Corona Virus
        • Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining
        • The 5.10 Commandments
        • Trying to Send this Route
      • Equipment (writings) >
        • Aliens!
        • A Rack Retrospective
        • Cam Ranges (+ Big Bros)
        • Carabiner Strength Ratings
        • Climbing Shoes Fit
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        • Rope Buying 101
        • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
        • The One Item to Stockpile
        • Which Way Should I Carry My Trad Rack?
        • Why GriGris Suck
        • 8 Reasons I Carry a Full Rack on Every Trad Climb
      • Facebook Feature >
        • FF: Big Walls
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        • FF: Welcome New Climbers
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        • GOD
        • Red Curtain: Prologue & Chapter 1 Excerpt
      • Gift Ideas >
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        • Climbing Stocking Stuffers 2021
        • Rock Stack Card Game
        • Safety Gifts 2021
      • Grades, Styles, & Types >
        • Absolutely Hypothetical: Introducing the Graham Scale
        • Bouldering-Falling
        • Bouldering Grade Advancements
        • Grading Climbs at the Gym
        • It's a F-ing Chimney
        • Onsight vs Flash vs Etc...
        • Top 10: Increase the Climbing Grade When...
        • Trad Climbing is for Chicken Sh*#s
        • WTF 5.7?
        • 18 Climber Types: Which Are You?
      • Kids >
        • Family Stages
        • The Guidebook
      • Legends & Tributes >
        • B - John Brailsford Tribute - The Immaculate MOAC
        • A - Bryden Allen
        • B - Joe Brown
        • C - Cutcliffe - The Boy from Bothwell – A Tribute to Max Cutcliffe, an Australian Legend
        • G - Brad Gobright
        • G - Todd Gordon
        • H - Hugh Herr
        • H - Thomas Huber - In Another World - A Personal Climbing Journey
        • J - Saxon Johns
        • M - Tim Macartney-Snape: ​A Legend from Sea to Summit
        • M - John Middendorf
        • S- Paul Seddon - From a Nut to a Harness: A Tribute to Paul Seddon, The Third Troll
        • R - Early to Rock: David Roots
      • Mental-Physical >
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        • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws
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        • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8
      • Other/Misc >
        • A Day Out With Barnsey
        • A Leap into the Blue Back in the Day
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        • Assault on Schurman Rock
        • Christo's Little Bay Rhapsody
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        • Climbing Hands
        • Climbing in the Bare Essentials
        • Climbing Resolutions
        • Dirtbag Trucker
        • Demented Dirtbag
        • Don't Take Granite for Granite
        • Dorothy, We Aren't on Havana Anymore
        • Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing
        • GymRhino
        • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb
        • Snakes and Ladders
        • Starting Over
        • Summit Fever
        • Sydney: Growing Up
        • The Adventure of A Lifetime - So Far
        • The Bane of Northwest Climbing
        • The Hangglider Incident
        • The Pink Tricam
        • Things of Stone and Wood
        • We Were Just Boys
        • Zac the Interloper
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          • Email From Italy
          • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited
          • From Yorkshire to Eternity
          • I Like Fake Cracks (And I Cannot Lie)
          • Lost Boys Meets Hard Boys >
            • The Lost Boys: The Epic First Ascent of Mount Warning's Wollumbin Shield
          • Ozymandias Direct - Fifty Years of Fun and Games
          • The Fourth Bolt of Texas Radio
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          • Yosemite - What We Came For
        • Location Reviews
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          • Copen Hill Climbing Wall
          • Drytooling in the Rain - Wayne's World, WA
          • My Home Crag: Nowra, NSW, Australia
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          • The Kenyan Climber
        • Travel Stories >
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          • Buenos Aires, Argentina Crag
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          • Desert Special Forces Adventures: Part 1
          • Ecuador - A Nation of Four Worlds
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          • Moonarie
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          • Thailand - Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
          • Vedauwoo, WY
          • What Two Friends Uncovered in Verdon
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
          • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing
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        • A Bard of Yosemite
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        • Sojourn at Dyuritte
        • Finding Poetry
        • Ice is Nice
        • The Space Between
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        • Bolting and Ground-Fall Potential
        • Euro-Death Knot is NOT
        • Multi-Pitch Tips: Two ATCs
        • Sketchy Anchor Bolts
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        • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip
        • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices
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        • Chossy Trio Renegades
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        • Diversity in Climbing is Not a Bandwagon
        • Don't Burn Out
        • From Gortex to Camouflage: The story of climber, Irina Galay and climbing’s responses to the war in Ukraine
        • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs"
        • I Am a Woman: Brie Chartier Shares Her Transition Journey
        • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
        • My Husband Climbs Stronger than Me
        • Navajo Rising
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        • The First Climbing Gym Union?
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      • Advanced Rock Climbing Book Review
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        • Queensland, Australia >
          • Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
          • Kangaroo Point Review
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            • Blue Mountains Photos and Beta
            • Blue Mountains Review
          • Nowra >
            • Nowra Review >
              • Nowra Photos and Beta
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        • Potrero Chico Photos and Beta
        • Potrero Chico Review
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        • Climbing Area Check List - U.S. >
          • Climbing Area Check List Part 1: Alabama to California
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 2: Colorado to Michigan
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 3: Minnesota to New Mexico
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 4: New York to Wyoming
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            • Joshua Tree Tips
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            • Trout Creek Review
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          • North Conway, NH
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          • Seneca Rocks
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          • Ten Sleep
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    • A-F - Photographers and Artists >
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      • B - Guillaume Borga
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March-April 2023

Welcome to the March-April 2023 edition of Common Climber!
GIVEAWAY!
​We have a giveaway from ELIRA Apparel - A pair of Adam's pant and panties - worth over $200 - March 15-22!
There are lots of ways to register via Facebook and Instagram @commonclimber 
​You can also get 5 entries here by completing our RVSP form!
Also check out our Common Climber Marketplace interview of ELIRA creator Kelly McCombs.

Featured Photographer - Charlie S. 

​Charlie S. is a climber, photographer, and engineer based out of Las Vegas, Nevada by way of Ogden, Utah and Upstate New York.

Charlie shares his photographic and climbing story with Common Climber check it out!
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Editorial

Welcome to the March-April 2023 edition of Common Climber!

​This month's featured photographer is Charlie S. I first met Charlie back in 2016 when we both lived in Ogden, Utah. He and a friend of his, Ken Noyce, had just bolted a new line at a local crag. My husband and I happened to be there climbing and they invited me to be one of the first to climb Community Service (a spicy 5.9/17). Charlie had his camera handy and took this shot of me in my blue BD helmet. That was the last I saw of Charlie.
Fast forward to 2022. I came across a post on our local Las Vegas Facebook group looking for people to go to Indian Creek. I had never been, but it was on my bucket list. Indian Creek is one of those places you go with lots of people - because, unless you are independently wealthy, you need to combine racks (think 10 #2s - or whatever size cam - up a perfect splitter crack.) So I joined in. As we exchanged information, Charlie and I put two-and-two together and discovered that we had both moved to Vegas and had met previously in Ogden. Yes, the small climbing world strikes again! The second photo is one Charlie captured of me in Indian Creek struggling up an offwidth section of an amazing un-named 5.10+ (18+).

So how was Indian Creek? Challenging and amazing, to say the least. I know there is a future story to share of the experience... But, let's just say if you want to put your pure crack skills to the test, Indian Creek is the place. Check out Charlie's photos to see what I mean. 

One of the the things that attracts us to being climbers are the people we meet and the friends we make. We are kindred spirits. We find each other.

In this edition we have a unique story that embodies this essence - A Day Out With Barnsie. Here, Keith Bell shares a special New Years he had with Common Climber's Assistant Editor Dave Barnes - aka Barnsie - and some other Aussie climbers whose faces and stories have sprung up here in our Common Climber pages. It feels so full-circle. What is especially creative in Keith's piece is the use of climb names and songs to tell the tale! I promise you have not seen anything like this. 

One of the things I love about Common Climbers is the diversity of stories we have to tell. James Crump takes us on another hilarious Texas climbing adventure - this time with Green Berets (an elite military group) in Hueco Tanks.  And, then there is the traveling GymRhino boulder - an exact replica of the South African Rocklands V8 boulder problem, The Rhino. How you ask?? It's pretty damn cool.

We also have a Marketplace interview of a woman who, in my mind, has revolutionized outdoor pants. ELIRA Apparel is designed so you don't have to take off your harness or get caught with your pants down to go to the bathroom while climbing. I sought out this interview for two reasons -  I love these pants and the perseverance to her vision (she had a Kickstarter and due to the pandemic, it took her two years to fulfill the orders - she could have bailed and she didn't).

The last two stories touch on a bit more of the serious side of climbing. If you have ever witnessed or been a part of a climbing accident, mental stress injuries can occur, which if unattended, can snowball and impact our ability to climb. Jamie Lange shares some very helpful information about Psychological First Aid - what it is, why we need it, and how to apply it. 
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Stefani Dawn on one of the early ascents of a new line put up in Ogden, Utah by Charlie S and Ken Noyce back in 2016. (Photo Credit: Charlie S.)
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Editor-in-Chief Stefani Dawn struggle-bussing up an offwidth in Indian Creek, Utah in 2022. (Photo Credit: This month's Featured Photographer Charlie S.)
The final story takes us to Gariwerd (Grampians), Australia where upwards of 70% of the climbing - about 6,200 climbs - is now off limits. Leigh Hopkinson thoughtfully navigates us through this delicate terrain - a balancing act between climbers, traditional owners, and Parks Victoria. There is something we as a climbing community can learn from this example. 

Thanks so much for hanging with us here at Common Climber! And, if you like a story or our vibe, I invite you to share us with your friends - it's the best complement you can give.

--Stef

Stories

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Desert Special Forces Adventures: Part 1
By James Crump

If you haven't read one of James Crump's larger-than-life Texas tales, then now is the time to begin. This time James takes us to Hueco Tanks, Texas (where James has numerous FAs and wrote a guidebook, BTW). On one of his trips he encounters some Green Berets and...
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A Delicate Balance - Climbers, Traditional Owners, and Parks Victoria Navigate Gariwerd (Grampians)
​By Leigh Hopkinson
​Photos By Francesco Vicenzi

Gariwerd / the Grampians National Park was once one of the best rock-climbing destinations in the world. In 2019, land manager Parks Victoria banned climbing in one third of the park to protect Aboriginal cultural heritage and the environment. Since then, most of the park – 70 per cent of routes, 6200 climbs – has been closed to climbing. Leigh Hopkinson looks back on the four-year fight for access.
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GymRhino: Africa's Most Famous Boulder Takes to the Road
By James Thurlow
​
When James Thurlow went to the Rocklands, South Africa, he fell in love with the infamous V8/7B+ climb The Rhino. He wanted to project it, but living 6000 miles away made that task difficult. Then his partner suggested, "Why not build a replica?" And the journey to replicate The Rhino began. See how this vision came to fruition, how they have created easier versions of the climb to make it more accessible, and, if you are in Europe, how you can climb it too. 

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Psychological First Aid
By Jamie Lange

Whenever there is a physical injury or accident while climbing, mental stress injury can also occur. This is true not just for the injured person, but also to anyone who witnesses the event or participates in the rescue. In this article climber and Psychiatric-Mental Health Nurse Practitioner Jamie Lange shares how stress injuries can be mitigated by administering Psychological First Aid either during or immediately following exposure to psychological stress. Jamie describes what is Psychological First Aid and how it can be used to prevent the initiation of survival mode and stress injury formation. 
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A Day Out with Barnsey
By Keith Bell

​Common Climber contributor Keith Bell has a light-hearted writing style and way with words. In this unique story he uses climb names and song titles to tell us about a fun time out with a group of friends over New Years. One of those friends is Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes - aka. Barnsey (FYI - Aussies like adding "ie/ey" to the ends of words). Barnsey is also the nick-name of a famous Australian rock-n-roll artist, which is where the song-play begins. Check out this fun story, and build in a little extra time to to hear the tunes referred to in the story - they will transport you to the Land Down Under in the most creative of ways. 

​Marketplace Interview

Picture
Elira Apparel - No Need to Strip, Jut Unzip

Two years ago, back in January 2021, Common Climber Editor-in-Chief Stefani Dawn ran across a Kickstarter campaign for pants that allowed you to go to bathroom without having to take off your harness or pull down your pants. She loved the concept and purchased one of each style of pants offered in the Kickstarter campaign.

Nearly two years later Stef finally received the pants - and was impressed - on many levels. Not only did the pants exceed Stef's expectations, she was impressed with the perseverance of the creator Kelly McCombs - who faced significant supply chain and manufacturing challenges due to the pandemic. Stef wanted to learn more and reached out to Kelly for an interview. 

In Common Climber Marketplace we conduct interviews of small climbing-related business owners -  each owner has something unique and interesting to say...

GIVEAWAY!
​We have a giveaway from ELIRA Apparel - A pair of Adam's pant and panties - worth over $200 - March 15-22!
There are lots of ways to register via Facebook and Instagram @commonclimber 
​You can also get 5 entries here by completing our RVSP form!
Also check out our Common Climber Marketplace interview of ELIRA creator Kelly McCombs.

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