Yes, Joshua Tree is beautiful, surreal, an ocean of granite. It's hundreds of square miles of rock tug on the heartstrings of rock climbers like magnet does to iron. It has a rich climbing history, the old, wild west of bad-ass climbers who seemingly weren't concerned with the lack of protection up those huge, slabby monoliths.
Coming to Joshua Tree and climbing is one of the several "rites of passage" climbing areas. Although JTree is transitioning into today's climbing world, it still holds tightly on to it's past. For this reason, there are a few important items you should know before climbing here. It is a matter of safety and protecting your fun (i.e. know what you are possibly getting yourself into ahead of time and coming prepared).
BOULDERING
Coming to Joshua Tree and climbing is one of the several "rites of passage" climbing areas. Although JTree is transitioning into today's climbing world, it still holds tightly on to it's past. For this reason, there are a few important items you should know before climbing here. It is a matter of safety and protecting your fun (i.e. know what you are possibly getting yourself into ahead of time and coming prepared).
- Joshua Tree is primarily a traditional (trad) climbing location.
- even many bolted climbs require trad - they are mixed climbs, not sport climbs.
- A trad climb may have large sections of unprotectable slab or crack that close out. Unprotectable seams are common too - it looks like a crack from below, then when you get there it is too shallow to place anything. It may not always be marked as an R or X in the guidebook.
- Bring long runners and webbing - it can sometimes be difficult to find nearby places for anchor pro.
- Sport climbing (which is completely protected by bolts) is growing, but in a limited way.
- BE CAREFUL: Some routes are labeled sport but they may not have bolted anchors. This means you have to have trad gear, slings, etc. to set up an anchor at the top of the climb (to toprope and/or bring up the second). If you have to build an anchor, that usually means a walk-off is required (unless there is natural protection for a rappel). Be prepared for a complicated walk off with exposure.
- Bolts - It is not uncommon for a climb with bolts (including mixed trad climbs) to have chopped bolts. If the guidebook says there are bolts, try to visually inspect the climb and identify bolt locations before getting on it.
- Many of the climbs in Joshua Tree are "old school." This means:
- Protection can be minimal. Dangerous run-out is prevalent.
- Climbing grades are much harder, especially for climbs ascended before the year 2000. An old school 5.4 is approximately a 5.7 in today's scale. An old school 5.9 is variable and could be a 5.9-5.11.
- Some climbs have very short approaches, particularly those located in the campgrounds, but many have boulder fields at the base of the climb (some of which are no big deal, others are quite heinous approaches).
- If your climb is located adjacent to a taken campsite, be courteous and ask permission to pass through or to climb there.
- In boulder fields, wear sturdy shoes with sticky rubber. Make sure your hands are available to help you through the boulders.
- Shove and tap on boulders, especially small to medium sized boulders, before putting all your weight on them. This helps determine if a boulder is secure. It can also let snakes know you are coming.
- Top Ropes - For most climbing areas the definition of a top-rope climb means you can access the top by easily walking up and setting up an anchor (typically with bolted anchors). This is not necessarily the case at Joshua Tree. Although these places certainly exist at JTree, many times a climb listed as "top rope" means it is a free-solo/unprotectable climb and/or you have to access the anchors by climbing another nearby climb.
- Also, come prepared with the gear and skills/knowledge to build your own anchor. Unless the guidebook or Mountain Project description specifically says there are bolted anchors, there is probably nothing but rocks and cracks at the top.
- Be prepared to lower yourself down securely to access the top rope anchors - it may not be directly accessible by walking and may be quite exposed.
- Be prepared to extend an anchor a long distance to allow the top rope to freely move when climbing (rather than rubbing continuously on the rock which will shred your rope rapidly).
- Also, come prepared with the gear and skills/knowledge to build your own anchor. Unless the guidebook or Mountain Project description specifically says there are bolted anchors, there is probably nothing but rocks and cracks at the top.
BOULDERING
- Bouldering is prevalent and easy to access.
