Cover photo is by our feature photographer Stephen Smithburger
Editorial - April 2020
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While I was assembling material for this edition I received a photo of one of our contributors with Red Rock Canyon in the background. Seeing that unexpected image, graced with the sandstone that I touched every weekend pre-CoVID - seeing that place which is part of my soul - caught me off guard. I began sobbing.
These are tears of an epidemic, representing so much more than the inability to touch stone and retreat into my life-defining past-time. I grieve about the crumbling of a nation and feel helpless in expressing an immense gratitude for all those risking their lives and serving on the front lines. I cry for those who have already experienced the death of a friend or loved one, and for those whose deaths are still to come. In the U.S. this tsunami is about to strike head-on. Elsewhere in the world you are pulling your heads above the boiling, crashing waves. Others await as the waters retreat, building for the coming wave. It's impossible not to make CoVID-19 part of this edition - ignoring it would be like burying our heads in the sandstone. Here Common Climber presents both CoVID and non-CoVID stories (and some with a little of both). Some days we may need a climbing tale, like Assistant Editor Dave Barnes' tale about Tim Macartney-Snape: A Legend from Sea to Summit - an article that transports us to another time and place - one of legends. Other days we may need to connect with the heart of a fellow climber struggling with the heavy weight of a pandemic, like Matt Spohn's Dear Memory. There is solace in shared experiences. |
Editor, Stefani Dawn, in her spirit place and home - Red Rock Canyon. Photo Credit: Lady Lockoff (Irene Yee)
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We also have the beautiful, expressive Finding Poetry by Alex Willis and the climbing recovery tales of Quinn Brett and Naomi Gibbs. There is a reflective photographic piece about a friend who asks for images of two ice solos and the diverse photography of our feature photographer Stephen Smithburger. Both a feast for your eyes. And, speaking of a feast for your eyes, numerous photographers have shared shots from around the world to help connect us in our shared quaratines. These shots are included with Dr. Julian Suander's article How to Climb and Avoid the Corona Virus.
As I assembled this edition, I realized there is an overtone of subdue-ness and an undertone of strength - much like Stephen's cover photo that graces the top of this page. I invite you to take a moment to study that photo - there's the cold, the grey, the dripping water, the world turned upside down, barely holding on by the toes. But there is also a calm strength that embodies who we are as climbers. We know how to bring the breath when needed, and hold on despite the pump.
--- Stef
As I assembled this edition, I realized there is an overtone of subdue-ness and an undertone of strength - much like Stephen's cover photo that graces the top of this page. I invite you to take a moment to study that photo - there's the cold, the grey, the dripping water, the world turned upside down, barely holding on by the toes. But there is also a calm strength that embodies who we are as climbers. We know how to bring the breath when needed, and hold on despite the pump.
--- Stef
PART 1: CoVID Articles
How to Climb and Avoid the Coronavirus
(By Dr. Julian Saunders) Dr. Saunders is an accomplished climber, frequent contributor to climbing journals, and offers online Osteopathic consultations for climbers. In this article Dr. Saunders discusses the possible variations of climbing (or not) during this pandemic. His article is accompanied by some beautiful photos contributed by multiple photographers of climbs from around the world illustrating how we are all in this together. |
Dear Memory
(By Matt Spohn) Climber, climbing photographer, and talented writer Matt Spohn captures a very moving moment in CoVID time. INVITATION:
As we go through this pandemic together, let's share our stories - either writing or even via video. Email me ([email protected]) your CoVID story or experience, it doesn't have to be climbing specific. We are all climbers here and we have that as our common foundation. |
Dierdre Wolownick entered into climbing to experience this crazy passion that drives her son, Alex Honnold. Though Alex taught her the ropes, climbing is wholly her own. We welcome Dierdre into the Common Climber fold and have two wonderful items to share - her personal reflection on CoVID-19 and a new "ride-out-CoVID" Common Climber Book Club where we will read her book "The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story." Dierdre will answer our book club questions at the end!
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MASKED WARRIOR:
Neil Berenholz of Neilico Nut Tools out of New York, has been making masks to help nurses with protection from CoVID. These masks can be worn over their N95 respirators, lengthening the amount of time they can reuse that respirator! Neil was inspired by a friend, who is a nurse, when she said they didn't have enough personal protective equipment at their hospital. Masked Warriors is a group of almost 2,000 crafters, quilters, hobbyists and tinkerers armed with sewing machines. Over the course of the last two weeks, the county has set up drop off bins in various towns and have arranged for the masks to be delivered to regional hospitals. It's an amazing network! |
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PART 2: Climbing Articles
Feature Photographer
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Feature Photographer: Stephen Smithburger Rock climber and photographer Stephen Smithburger hails from the Washing D.C. area and shares some beautiful climbing photos around the East Coast of the U.S. and beyond. |
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Tim Macartney-Snape: A Legend from Sea to Summit (by Dave Barnes) Australian climbing legend and Sea to Summit co-founder Tim Macartney-Snape is known for his first ascent line and sea to summit climbs on Everest, but he is a climber who also embraces moderate lines in his Australian backyard and is cherished by many climbing friends. |
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Finding Poetry (by Alex Willis)
Alex Willis takes us on a journey with prose, images, and poetry. He says, "I have discovered that awe is a vital nutrient that must be shared for a meaningful life. For those willing, know that it dissolves well in ink. With poetry, we can join the nervous systems of strangers like the roots of aspens so that this nutrient can be shared." This beautiful work is one to be read slowly and savored. (Alex also offers a dedication to Thomas Skinner, his climbing buddy, dear friend, and nurse working in ICU ward taking care of CoVID patients. Thomas is featured in photos in this piece). |
Quinn Brett Interview (By Enock Glidden) Climber Quinn Brett became paralyzed after a fall when trying to set a new speed record for The Nose in Yosemite. Enock Glidden interviews Quinn who shares what she is doing in her new life and her words of reflection for climbers. |
Achilles (by Naomi Gibbs) Author Naomi Gibbs tells a moving story of an achilles rupture that occurred when climbing her multi-year project. |
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Ice Solo (by Matt Westlake) Photographer Matt Westlake is asked by a friend to capture his solo climbs up two WI6 ice formations. Matt shares the photos and what goes through his mind... |
Book Reviews
With many of us confined to our homes, perhaps it's time to read a book, or two... We have two very different options for you - one to get the adrenaline flowing, the other to practice techniques while confined so you'll be ready for the BIG WALLS.
HOOKING UP: The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual (Book by Fabio Elli & Peter Zabrok) - Review By Dave Barnes - I have just finished reading Fabio Elli’s and Peter Zabrok’s Hooking Up –The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual. I am now in need of a stretch and my whiskers need pruning. This is no normal climbing manual; this is a biblical testament to all things big wall climbing. Read more...
Facebook Feature: Snake!
Fun, funny, and thoughtful short-story shares on Facebook from the Common Climber audience.
Join @commonclimber on Facebook to participate!
Join @commonclimber on Facebook to participate!
Midway up pitch 2 of something in El Potrero Chico. This one was pretty chill - probably half way through a fifth of some homemade mescal. -- Radek Chalupa Was climbing a multi pitch 22 at Moonarie with a mate. On the last pitch, around 15m from the top, traverse along a horizontal break to the last vertical crack to the top. Good stance to place pro, searching around on the harness, then check crack for sizing, to end up face to face with, I believe, a tiger snake. He was in the dark crack and pretty chill about it, me not so much. Much speedy traversing back to discuss with my partner our plan. Luckily there was another crack off to the left. My partner didn’t believe me so had to scurry along the ledge and peer in. Yep, I was not lying. Snakey boi right there.
If you haven't read Dave Barnes' funny climbing snake story check it out!
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Snakes don't really bother me that much to be honest. I have played with a Death Adder one time out on the crag. Came across a Red Belly Black Snake on an outdoor ed camp. Was sauntering along the track and saw it all laid out in front of me and just stopped and stomped my feet to give it a heads up to slither off into the bush. There is a story about a climber out at Frog Buttress who grabbed a Brown Snake in a crack and leaped off with a blood curdling scream. Took a whipper. Of course that is the reason you always place snake pro. Snake Pro is the piece you place just before you get to a ledge cos there might be a snake or a Goanna up there sunning themselves and you poke your nose right in front of their face well within striking distance. Snake pro will save your butt from taking a huge whipper on easy terrain with the subsequent injuries from the tumble.Snake Pro, yes folks, it is a thing, use it every time. -- Phil Box
I read that the average rattler bite victim has a blood alcohol level of 0.10. -- Micheal Nation
My [still living] nephew. -- Michael Nation
Somewhere in Arizona... -- Jeff Smoot
COMMON CLIMBER DISCLAIMER: Uh, yeah, not recommended peeps! And, we kinda like snakes too, so be cool to them by just walking (or climbing?) on by...
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In 1987 John Barbella and I were in Delhi in India on our way to the Garhwal Himalaya. We got permission to go bouldering on the president's grounds which were 20-30' tall cliffs that you mostly traversed. I put on my shoes and started traversing. Got to a crack and got a nice hand jam to rest. Our guide told me that wasn't such a good idea as cobras lived in the cracks. My bouldering session ended there.
We met this guy (a 1.5m tiger) on our first day of climbing in Tasmania. The Tassie variety are known for their laid back disposition and even hospitality. This one gave us some shortcut beta and even offered us a Fosters. -- Radek Chalupa
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