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Back in the mid 1960’s when I made my first tentative leads, the climbs, equipment and techniques were magnificently basic. Over time, my climbing and the equipment improved but I remained very much influenced by the KISS principle (Keep it Super Simple). After agreeing to review Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques and saw that it filled over 300 pages, I immediately felt concerned.
Flicking through the contents revealed the magnitude of my task. Climbing techniques, gear, knots, belaying, bouldering, sports, trad, big walls, performance, rappelling and rescue indicated the full panoply of topics covered. I felt even more daunted. Topher Donahue states at the beginning, “This book is not for beginners … we assume you are already at least an intermediate climber well versed in climbing basics”. Let me disagree by stating that this is an incredibly well researched book that while exhaustive in its scope is well written and easy to understand; it deserves to be read widely. No matter if you boulder or climb sports or trad you should read the relevant section and learn much. However, you will still be drawn to other chapters where there is equally as much gold to be extracted. |
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What particularly impressed me was the recurring emphasis on safety and having fun. Reflex techniques such as checking harness straps and knots, not only yours but also your partners, are reiterated often. The importance of clear communication and tying off knots in the ends of ropes when lowering or rappelling should become second nature.
Accidents and incidents are better avoided when traveling the vertical world as they usually not associated with fun and enjoyment. As Topher observes, climb for a long time and you are sure to overlook or neglect something IMPORTANT. The text is well provided with quotes and hints from accomplished climbers that contribute markedly to safer and enjoyable climbing
Since the book is written with the intention of lifting your grade and improving your climbing it was refreshing to see that Topher does not suggest flinging yourself at climbs several grades above your current standard. While not completely ruling it out, he rather suggests that mileage is the key to gaining confidence, strength and better grades. He further suggests that having a mentor or teaming up whenever possible with a better or more experienced climber will invariably improve your technique.
My one final observation is that it would be easy for the reader to be overcome by the sheer breadth and scope of this work, but this is actually its strength given that it will be a comprehensive and reliable reference for many years to come. In summary, the book is a remarkable compilation of climbing practice, technique and lore and Topher deserves to be congratulated for the time, effort and thought that he has put in to produce better and safer climbers. His book has set a new standard in the genre that will stand for many years.
Accidents and incidents are better avoided when traveling the vertical world as they usually not associated with fun and enjoyment. As Topher observes, climb for a long time and you are sure to overlook or neglect something IMPORTANT. The text is well provided with quotes and hints from accomplished climbers that contribute markedly to safer and enjoyable climbing
Since the book is written with the intention of lifting your grade and improving your climbing it was refreshing to see that Topher does not suggest flinging yourself at climbs several grades above your current standard. While not completely ruling it out, he rather suggests that mileage is the key to gaining confidence, strength and better grades. He further suggests that having a mentor or teaming up whenever possible with a better or more experienced climber will invariably improve your technique.
My one final observation is that it would be easy for the reader to be overcome by the sheer breadth and scope of this work, but this is actually its strength given that it will be a comprehensive and reliable reference for many years to come. In summary, the book is a remarkable compilation of climbing practice, technique and lore and Topher deserves to be congratulated for the time, effort and thought that he has put in to produce better and safer climbers. His book has set a new standard in the genre that will stand for many years.