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January 2020
Big Wall Edition

Photo by Matt Spohn, our featured photographer in  this month's edition. 


​Welcome to the Common Climber
​January 2020 Big Wall Edition!
​And, Happy New Year!


Featured Photographer: Matt Spohn

Big wall climber, photographer, poet, and manager of his family-owned climbing gym, Matt Spohn, shares his big wall climbing photos with us. Enjoy!
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A Tribute to Big Wall Climber Brad Gobright

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​It Was His Time: Brad Gobright 
(Interview May 2019, and a special message from Brad's Mom, Pam Gobright)


(By David Barnes)

​Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes shares a tribute to and his May 2019 interview with the late Brad Gobright. 

Pam Gobright, Brad's mom, shares a special introduction and message for Common Climber readers. 

This touching and beautiful image was created by the talented Karmelo Onate. It depicts Brad joining some of his fellow bros at the top of the ultimate climb. 

Editorial

By ​Stefani Dawn, Editor-in-Chief

Big wall climbing, what exactly is it?

Big wall climbing is generally associated with bivvies, portaledges, and multi-day climbs - walls so big you can't get up it in one push. In days past, big wall climbing was primarily slow, arduous aid climbing - first ascents that took enormous amounts of time, finding the path that would go. Then, free-climbing the aid routes emerged, again, with long days spent on the wall, working the moves over and over.


As climbing has progressed both in skill and gear,
 things like "Nose in a Day" ascents and speed climbing have taken center stage. The "sleeping on the wall" aspect of climbing a big wall has become less of a defining factor and the definition is centering around a more measurable metric - the height of a climb. 
Picture
Editor, Stefani Dawn, climbing the technical East Face of Mt. Whitney, the tallest mountain in the lower 48 (Grade III, 1100 ft, 5.7, summit 14,505 ft)
Although there is no agreed-upon specific number of what differentiates a big wall from a long multi-pitch climb, what I've read seems to settle on a minimum of 1000-1500 feet (300-450m). Basically a long, committing climb that requires a certain set of skills, strength, and endurance. Although big walls were once perceived of as accessible to only a few, such a climb is fairly common place now - well in the realm of Common Climbers.

​The process of making big walls accessible to the rest of us begins with those who dare to pave the way with first ascents, first free ascents, speed ascents, and specialized gear. These folks show us what is possible and challenge us not only to dream, but to do. This issue highlights both the pioneers and the Common Climbers who choose to give big wall climbing a go. Here's what we offer you in this Big Wall edition of Common Climber:
  • A little bit of history - did you know there was a big wall free-soloist before Alex Honnold? Yep, 100 years before Honnold. Learn a bit more in this interesting book review about Paul Preuss.
  • We also have a one-of-a-kind interview with portaledge creator John Middendorf. After getting trapped on the side of Yosemite's Half Dome in a terrible storm and having to be rescued, John decided to create the first storm-proof portaledge, then build a business from there.
  • ​Fast forwarding to today, we have a unique spectrum of articles about big wall climbing:
    • ​​Big wall photos and poetry from Matt Spohn. Matt is a Common Climber who loves big walls and runs a climbing gym in the Portland, OR area.
    • Sébastien Berthe Free Climbs the Nose From the Ground Up - Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe is the 7th person to free the Nose, and the 1st to accomplish this task from ground up. 
    • We have a couple of skills/knowledge oriented articles related to big climbs, as well as a Climber's New Year's Resolution
      • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie on multipitch climbs.
      • Grading Commitment 
  • Our Facebook Feature (at the bottom of this front page) highlights some big wall photos and stories Common Climbers around the world. 
  • Last and definitely not least, we have an interview of and tribute to the late big wall climber Brad Gobright. Assistant Editor Dave Barnes interviewed Brad in May 2019 after Brad free climbed the Muir Wall on The Nose and the Pineapple Express variation of El Nino on the other side of El Capitan. Brad is well known for his record-setting speed climbing and daring ascents, but, if you read any tributes to Brad from his friends, he is best remembered for his open heart, humility, and kindness. Brad's absence is a gap felt by many. Please take a moment to read this piece, which includes some heart-felt words from Brad's mom, Pam. And, I also invite you to study the accompanying artwork by Karmelo Onate, which shows Brad's final climb into the realm of those who came and left before him.


​


Articles

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John Middendorf : A Big Man for a Big Stone 
(By David Barnes)

Suffering from hypothermia on the side of Half Dome in Yosemite during one of the worst storms of the decade, John Middendorf became life-threateningly aware that there were no storm-proof portaledges available at the time. Middendorf, an engineer and big wall climber, resolved to change that.
Picture
Sébastien Berthe Free Climbs the Nose From the Ground Up
(An interview for Common Climber by Dave Barnes)

Sébastien Berthe taps into his internet account in Belgium. Seb, is no ordinary young key board tapper, this 23 year old climber who freed the Nose of El Capitan in the United States in the second week of November, 2019 after an eight day effort from the ground up. Seb climbed the route accompanied by his switched on partner, Loic Debry. Seb led every pitch. I caught up with Seb for Common Climber and he shares the stoke of his ascent in the following. 
Picture
Hanging with the Monkeys, and Getting the Monkey Off My Back

(By Peter Zabrok)

​
Armed with commitment, beer/wine/margaritas, good climbing buddies, and a sense of humor, Peter Zabrok takes us on a “star-studded” tour of his I FINALLY GOT IT! Aid-climbing ascent of New Dawn on El Capitan. This is an engaging tale of a Yosemite fixture who gets photo-bombed by the likes of Alex Honnold and Kevin Jorgeson.

Book Review

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Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss (Book By David Smart)
Review By: Jeff Smoot
​

If you aren’t a student of climbing history, you might be forgiven for believing that big wall free soloing was invented by Alex Honnold, unaware that more than one hundred years ago, soloing difficult rock walls thousands of feet high was not an uncommon practice, and that one climber, a young Austrian named Paul Preuss, had so perfected the art that one of his contemporaries, the great Tita Piaz, the Italian climber himself known as the “Devil of the Dolomites” for his own audacious climbs, called him “Lord of the Abyss.” Reviewer Jeff Smoot takes us on a tour of the book about this legend of big wall free soloing. 



Skills and Knowledge

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Shit Happens - Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie (On Multipitch Climbs)
(By Stefani Dawn)

If you’ve ever read forums about multipitch climbing you’ve probably seen threads (aka. arguments about 30-seconds away from a fist-fight) about best communication practices... Frankly, the simplest way to deal with communication on a multi-pitch climb is to get a freaking walkie talkie... Stef takes you on a mini-epic, illustrating the why of walkie talkies. 
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Grading Commitment
​(By Rick Momsen)​

Ahhh…route rating systems. Simple systems of irrefutable measurements of difficulty that all climbers agree upon. Or maybe not. Thankfully I’m not here to write about pro’s and con’s of the various difficulty rating systems. I’m here to write about commitment ratings!

​And for the new year we have a climber struggling with New Year's Resolutions.
Can you relate?


Facebook Feature: Big Wall Climbs
Common Climber Readers Share Their Tales

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Tim Marcartney-Snape is an Australian climber who shared several photos of his ascent of Ozymandais, one of the biggest climbs in Australia. Ozymandais is a 280m aid route at Mount Buffalo in Australia. Most parties take 2-3 days. The last photo is Tim in his "old school" portaledge.
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Photo of Mohamed Mesaudi​ in Taghia, Morocco.​

BIG WALLS
By Dave Barnes​

Big chunks of rock in high places.

Big features and pitches where dreams are united.

Big living- Big dying. 

Big BASE jumps and Big high lines. Big fines.

Big memories for those that grew old and Big experiences for those who are young.

Ancient history Chouinard. Modern  history Caldwell. Big names. 

Big aid and Big free it doesn’t matter. 

Big canvas paintings Big photos taken. Climbers as art hanging on cliffs hanging on frames eternal from bar to shady bar. 

Big stoke for Big folks. 

Big climbing for Big climbers with Big appetites for adventure. 

Big laughter and big tears. Nothing is smaller than a human emotion on a Big Wall. The Big Stone eclipses everything and that is it’s Big appeal. 

The Biggest of all are these two. 

Big respect for all who come to try their hand at Big Wall living and big Love for those same who have dared to dream Big high on a living wall. 


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From Justine Pope: Over 1600 feet (500m) of via ferrata but still climbing! (Mt. Nimbus, British Columbia, Canada)


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  • Editions
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  • Themed Editions
    • Adaptive Climbing Edition >
      • Adaptive Climbing Photo Feature: Paradox Sports
      • Climbing with Type 1 Diabetes
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      • Amputations: Leg Prosthesis for Climbing
      • Blind Ambition Builds a World Class Climber: The Story of Jesse Dufton
      • First Paralyzed Ascents: Rand Abbott
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      • Zac the Interloper
      • Book Review: Uncoiling the Ropes
      • Belaytionships: Drew-and-Sarah
      • This page has been removed
      • I Am My Father's Son: Layton Bridwell
    • Big Wall Edition >
      • Book Review: Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • Featured Photographer: Matt Spohn
      • Grading Commitment
      • Hanging with the Monkeys, and Getting the Monkey Off My Back
      • It Was His Time: Brad Gobright Interview May 2019
      • John Middendorf : A Big Man for a Big Stone
      • Sébastien Berthe Free Climbs the Nose From the Ground Up
      • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
    • Developers and Guidebook Authors >
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      • Andrew Penny - A Blue Mountaineer
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      • AUSTRALIA - Photographer - Diego Perez
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      • Book Review - Climbing Rock
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      • FRANCE - Verdon in Winter
      • GREECE - Meteora
      • ITALY - Dolomites
      • MEXICO - La Huasteca
      • SPAIN - Artist - Karmelo Onate
      • UTAH - Maple Canyon: This One Makes You Taller
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      • A Tale of Oso Madre
      • Clayton Herrmann - Featured Photographer
      • Rysavy Ridge >
        • The Migrant Pom on Rysavy Ridge
        • Throng of Roland
        • Fast Forward - Rysavy Ridge Revisited
      • The Three Sisters
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      • ARTIST: Shawn Lee
      • A Shift on Moonlight Buttress
      • Claiming a Space on the Mountain
      • Colorblind
      • Feature Photographer: Bryan Sillorequez
      • Is Diversity in America Diverse?
      • MOVIE: People of Climbing:
      • Profile - Favia Dubyk
      • The Lineage
    • Joshua Tree >
      • Bouldering: JTree Made Me Do It
      • Improv at JTree: Bad Bolts
      • JTree: Bolting Pressure Cooker
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    • Overcoming Adversity >
      • Acopa Outdoors
      • Anoushe Husain
      • Expanding the Circle
      • Failure is Part of the Price: Rand Abbott Attempts the First Adaptive Lead Ascent of The Nose
      • Overcoming a Brain Tumor: WeighMyRack Founder Interview: Alison Dennis
      • Rising
      • The Mountain Path Book Review
    • Overcoming Boundaries >
      • Photographer - Brook Anderson
      • Profile - Louise Shepherd
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      • Rock Type 1
      • The Tape Job
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      • Editorial - Women's Edition
      • Climbing is My Art
      • Mt. Logan Solo
      • Photographer - Michelle Ranee Johnson
      • Profile - Caitlin Schokker
  • Writing
    • All Writings (List)
    • Topics >
      • Adaptive Climbing >
        • Adaptive Climbing Edition
        • El Capitan: Enock Glidden
        • Failure is Part of the Price: Rand Abbott Attempts the First Adaptive Lead Ascent of The Nose
        • Quinn Brett Interview
        • My Journey to Adaptive Rock Climbing
        • Planning for Mt. Rainier: Adaptive Climbing
        • Resources - Adaptive Climbing
        • Single Pitch Instructor Adaptive: It's About Climbing Independence
      • Alpine & Ice >
        • A Chamonix Initiation
        • California Still Has Untouched Climbing Wilderness
        • Elusive Ice - A Rare Tasmanian Treat
        • Ice Solo
        • Mt. Ogden Spanking
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        • My Common Alpine Epic
        • The Dru Derby >
          • Horses for Courses - The Dru Derby 1971
          • My Dru Derby
          • The North Face of the Dru - Chris Baxter
        • Vertical Ice Climbing in Ontario, Canada, eh?
      • Profiles >
        • Climberisms by Dylan Taylor
        • A - Shawn Axelrod - Overcoming Boundaries
        • B - Megan Banker - Plus-Sized Climbing Advocate
        • B - Wendy Bruere - More Than It Hurts
        • D - Favia Dubyk - American Ninja Warrior
        • F - Debbie Fowler - A N00bie Climber's Story
        • E - Ian Elliot - It's All Up From Here
        • H - Lindsey Hamm - The Hamminator
        • H - Sabine Pratt Hunziker - Little Red Riding Hood
        • M - Marisa Michael - Nutrition for Climbers
        • M - Josie McKee: Training the Mind for Joy
        • P - Dave Parry - Author Grit Blocs
        • S - Caitlin Schokker
        • S - Louise Shepherd - Aussie Legend
        • T - Mia Tucholke - IFMGA Mountain Guide
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        • Master and his Apprentice
        • Totem Pole 2082
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        • COVID Climbing Memes
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        • Dear Memory
        • From Couch to Lifting Couches
        • How to Climb and Avoid the Corona Virus
        • Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining
        • The 5.10 Commandments
        • Trying to Send this Route
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        • Aliens!
        • A Rack Retrospective
        • Cam Ranges (+ Big Bros)
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        • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
        • The One Item to Stockpile
        • Which Way Should I Carry My Trad Rack?
        • Why GriGris Suck
        • 8 Reasons I Carry a Full Rack on Every Trad Climb
      • Facebook Feature >
        • FF: Big Walls
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        • GOD
        • Red Curtain: Prologue & Chapter 1 Excerpt
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        • Onsight vs Flash vs Etc...
        • Top 10: Increase the Climbing Grade When...
        • Trad Climbing is for Chicken Sh*#s
        • WTF 5.7?
        • 18 Climber Types: Which Are You?
      • Kids >
        • Family Stages
        • The Guidebook
      • Legends & Tributes >
        • B - John Brailsford Tribute - The Immaculate MOAC
        • A - Bryden Allen
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        • C - Cutcliffe - The Boy from Bothwell – A Tribute to Max Cutcliffe, an Australian Legend
        • G - Brad Gobright
        • G - Todd Gordon
        • H - Hugh Herr
        • H - Thomas Huber - In Another World - A Personal Climbing Journey
        • J - Saxon Johns
        • M - Tim Macartney-Snape: ​A Legend from Sea to Summit
        • M - John Middendorf
        • S- Paul Seddon - From a Nut to a Harness: A Tribute to Paul Seddon, The Third Troll
        • R - Early to Rock: David Roots
      • Mental-Physical >
        • Climbing Training Series >
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        • Climbing Through Life
        • A Climb Worth Fighting For
        • Achilles
        • Encouraging Words - At Any Age
        • Everyone Around Me Is Better Than I Am
        • Falling Far Enough
        • Fear, Pride, and Exploration
        • How Auto-Immune Disease Affected My Climbing
        • Lessons from a 30-foot Ground Fall
        • Mastering Joy on Easy Street
        • Mind, Body, and Soul
        • My Demon Has a Name
        • New Year's Resolutions
        • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws
        • Push and Pull
        • Sorcerer and the Kidney Stone
        • Take Risks - You'll Remember Them Later
        • The Art of Climbing Without Rock
        • The Devil's Game
        • The Eye
        • The Taste of Climbing
        • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8
      • Other/Misc >
        • A Leap into the Blue Back in the Day
        • Animal Acts Part 1: Things with Wings
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        • Assault on Schurman Rock
        • Christo's Little Bay Rhapsody
        • Climbing, Community, and the U.S. Presidential Election
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        • Climbing Resolutions
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        • Don't Take Granite for Granite
        • Dorothy, We Aren't on Havana Anymore
        • Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing
        • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb
        • Snakes and Ladders
        • Starting Over
        • Summit Fever
        • Sydney: Growing Up
        • The Adventure of A Lifetime - So Far
        • The Bane of Northwest Climbing
        • The Hangglider Incident
        • The Pink Tricam
        • Things of Stone and Wood
        • We Were Just Boys
        • Zac the Interloper
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          • Consolation Prize
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          • Email From Italy
          • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited
          • From Yorkshire to Eternity
          • I Like Fake Cracks (And I Cannot Lie)
          • Lost Boys Meets Hard Boys >
            • The Lost Boys: The Epic First Ascent of Mount Warning's Wollumbin Shield
          • Ozymandias Direct - Fifty Years of Fun and Games
          • The Fourth Bolt of Texas Radio
          • The Matterhorn
          • Thumbing The Nose at Mr. CF Jingus
          • Tiptoeing Through Some Bungles
          • Tombstone Territory
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
        • Location Reviews
        • My Home Crag >
          • Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky
          • Copen Hill Climbing Wall
          • Drytooling in the Rain - Wayne's World, WA
          • My Home Crag: Nowra, NSW, Australia
          • New River Gorge, West Virgina
          • The Kenyan Climber
        • Travel Stories >
          • Blue Mountains - Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys
          • Buenos Aires, Argentina Crag
          • Colorado - Calling Pat Ament
          • Coolum Cave - Sendfest 8
          • Ecuador - A Nation of Four Worlds
          • Egypt: The Sinai Sampler
          • El Potrero Chico - Riding the Dirty Dog
          • Yosemite: Growing Up
          • Lover's Leap - Zone of Craptitude
          • Moonarie
          • Rio de Janeiro - Classic Climbs Sampler
          • Sintra, Portugal
          • Taghia, Morocco - Hardly Failing
          • Tasmania - Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’
          • Thailand - Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
          • Vedauwoo, WY
          • What Two Friends Uncovered in Verdon
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
          • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing
      • Poetry/Prose >
        • A Bard of Yosemite
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        • Sojourn at Dyuritte
        • Finding Poetry
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        • The Space Between
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        • Bolting and Ground-Fall Potential
        • Euro-Death Knot is NOT
        • Multi-Pitch Tips: Two ATCs
        • Sketchy Anchor Bolts
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        • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip
        • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices
      • Social, Social Media, & Social Issues >
        • Chossy Trio Renegades
        • Climbing into the Fold
        • Diversity in Climbing is Not a Bandwagon
        • Don't Burn Out
        • From Gortex to Camouflage: The story of climber, Irina Galay and climbing’s responses to the war in Ukraine
        • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs"
        • I Am a Woman: Brie Chartier Shares Her Transition Journey
        • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
        • My Husband Climbs Stronger than Me
        • Navajo Rising
        • Social Network Rescue
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  • Reviews
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      • Advanced Rock Climbing Book Review
      • Adventures at the Edge of the World
      • Climbing Glass Book Review
      • Climbing Rock: Vertical Explorations Across North America
      • Hangdog Days Book Review
      • HOOKING UP: The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual
      • Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • Red Curtain - Book Review
      • Sydney Climbing - Book Review
      • The Greater Fool - Brad Gobright and the Blinding Shine of Originality
      • The Mountain Path Book Review
      • The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story - Book Review
      • Uncoiling the Ropes
      • Valley of Giants
      • Yosemite Bigwalls: The Ultimate Guide Review
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        • Edelrid Mega Jul
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        • D4 Delta2P Portaledge
        • Skyhook Stick Clip Review
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      • Australia >
        • Queensland, Australia >
          • Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
          • Kangaroo Point Review
        • New South Wales Australia >
          • Blue Mountains >
            • Blue Mountains Photos and Beta
            • Blue Mountains Review
          • Nowra >
            • Nowra Review >
              • Nowra Photos and Beta
      • Mexico >
        • Potrero Chico Photos and Beta
        • Potrero Chico Review
      • United States >
        • Climbing Area Check List - U.S. >
          • Climbing Area Check List Part 1: Alabama to California
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 2: Colorado to Michigan
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 3: Minnesota to New Mexico
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 4: New York to Wyoming
        • Arizona >
          • Queen Creek Canyon
        • California >
          • Joshua Tree >
            • Joshua Tree Tips
          • Mount Whitney >
            • Mount Whitney Photos and Beta
        • Idaho
        • Oregon >
          • Smith Rock >
            • Smith Rock - Photos and Beta
            • Smith Rock Review
          • Spring Mountain >
            • Spring Mountain Review
            • Spring Mountain - Photos and Beta
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            • Trout Creek Photos and Beta
            • Trout Creek Review
        • Nevada >
          • Gun Club
          • Keyhole Canyon
          • Mt. Charleston, Nevada
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            • Red Rock Canyon Review - Yeahs and Neahs
            • Red Rock Canyon Photos and Beta
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          • North Conway, NH
          • Rumney, NH
        • New York >
          • Gunks Review
        • Utah >
          • Echo Canyon
          • Ferguson Canyon >
            • Ferguson Canyon Photos and Beta
            • Ferguson Canyon Review
          • Ibex >
            • Ibex Photos and Beta
            • Ibex Review
          • Maple Canyon >
            • Maple Canyon, Utah Photos and Beta
            • Maple Canyon Review
          • Moab >
            • Moab - Main - Photos and Beta
            • Moab -Main - Review
          • St. George >
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall- Photos and Beta
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall - Review
        • West Virginia >
          • Seneca Rocks
        • Wyoming >
          • Ten Sleep
  • Photographers & Artists
    • A-F - Photographers and Artists >
      • A- Brook Anderson
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      • F - Eric Fallecker
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