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I joined Instagram in 2016. Back then I kept seeing posts from a petite, spicy strawberry-blonde woman (@tradprincess) and her equally spicy brunette friend (@mersendyclimberson) jamming cracks in the red sandstone of Moab, Utah.
In those early days, the content of the posts felt like the wild west made wilder by two rambunctious young climbing women who were besties. They had a crude, blazen "I don't give a fuck" attitude that was occasionally off-putting and simultaneously attractive. As I read through their posts, I found myself thinking, "Go get it ladies" and "Yeah, that's a bit juvenile..." Admittedly I was curious, but I kept moving on. With social media amplification doing its thing, the posts featuring @tradprincess and @mersendyclimberson kept crossing my path. It was almost like quicksand - inescapable. It was also inescapable that the photos were consistently wowing. And, these stellar shots were taken by these two women. To top it off, these two ladies could climb. It was clear they had talent and were lifting each other up. I admired talented women being each other's advocate. |
Mary Catherine Eden (IG: @tradprincess) on "Shotgun" (5.12+) in Flagstaff, Arizona. (Photo Credit: Sam Foreman, IG: @mr.samuelforeman)
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I'm not entirely sure what finally compelled me to drink the @tradprincess and @mersendyclimberson cool-aid. I guess my curiosity got the better of me.
Between the youthful banter in the posts, the infamous Irene Yee (@ladylockoff) photo of @tradprincess draped in cams - I mean my kind of gown - and the lure of pure desert crack at Indian Creek, I got hooked. For years @tradprincess and @mersendyclimberson were inseparable. If both weren't in the shot, one was either in the photo or taking the photo. But, as time does, they diverged into their own identities and paths. @mersendyclimberson (Mercadi Carlson) stepped away from climbing for a bit to explore nude photography, biking, silks, and other things. Their friendship remained, but @tradprincess dove even deeper into climbing. You could see the evolution through whatever tinted lens social media provided. In the early years of @tradprincess's Instagram posts the "words" department was a often thin, but she was big on delivering entertainment and photographic talent. Over time, however, @tradprincess started revealing more about herself, and - dare I say - she started growing up. @tradprincess shifted from an Instagram handle and sensation to a person with opinions, ambition, a career, and, yes, a name - Mary Catherine Eden. |
The tradprincess in her gown. An iconic photo of Mary Catherine Eden by Irene Yee (Ig: @ladylockoff)
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This image of Mary Catherine Eden (left) and Mercadi Carlson (right) (IG: @mersendyclimberson) sums up their Instagram presence and part of why they became so popular - climbing, attitude, wild west, and great photography. (Photo Credit: Mary's production company Big Beauty Pitches @bigbeautypitches)
Mercadi Carlson (IG: @mersendyclimberson) on "Brother From Another Planet" (5.12) at Indian Creek, Utah. (Photo Credit: Mary Catherine Eden, IG: @tradprincess)
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Mary Catherine Eden (IG: @tradprincess) on "Supreme Manliness" (5.13-) in Castle Valley, Utah. (Photo Credit: Mercadi Carlson, IG: @mersendyclimberson)
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ABOVE: Mercadi and Mary are both skilled climbers and photographers who climbed together, played, laughed together, and took tons of superb photos of each other - supporting and amplifying each other in many ways.
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As someone who grew up pre-social media, it's funny to me how we often know each other by our IG handles rather than our names. In my conversation with Mary, she mentioned how she gets approached by a lot by climbers who recognize her - as Tradprincess.
In her jovial, wise-ass style, Mary likes to have fun with it. When a guy approached as she was entering the can at Joshua Tree and said, "Hey! You're that Tradprincess chick!" She replied, "No, I hate that bitch," and closed the bathroom door. She then cracked the door, popped her head out and said, "Hey, I was just fucking with you. Yeah, that's me." And they had a good laugh. In the early days of following Mary's feed, if she had her given name listed in her profile, I don't recall seeing it. At some point though, her name began showing up - Mary Catherine Eden. In my misty recollection, it seemed that when Mary's name began showing up was when her posts started to shift. She began to reveal herself as a three-dimensional person beyond an Instafamous climber. She began talking about being a climbing guide in Moab and was building clientele (She guided full time for 8 years and retired in 2020; She still hosts crack climbing clinics.). She referred to her photography and production company Big Beauty Pitches (IG: @bigbeautypitches) and would, occasionally, take a stance on societal issues. Sometimes there would be a glimpse of life outside of climbing: stories of growing up with horses in Kentucky; a mention of going to college (she has a bachelor's degree in geology and is currently working on a second bachelor's in marketing); and, every once in a while, we would see her significant talent as a painter. |
Mary Catherine Eden after climbing "Pat's Blue Ribbon" (5.13) in Indian Creek, Utah. (Photo Credit: Spencer McKay, IG: @spencermckaay)
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Mary with her horse Whiskey. (Photo Credit: Cathy Eden)
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Despite those intermittent side-stories, climbing always remained front and center in Mary's Instagram world. Mercadi, her OG wild friend and climbing partner, took a break from the rock. Mary then paired up with Kaya Lindsay (@onechicktravels) and created, filmed, and was featured in the short films Girls Gone Wide 1 and 2. This, combined with a ton of posts of off-width climbing, cemented Mary into a serious off-width climber. But Mary didn't see herself pigeon-holed in that that way.
This is where some elements of Mary's foundational personality broke through. Mary is driven. If you superficially go by what you read or hear on her Instagram posts or in Girls Gone Wide, it's easy to focus on Mary's playfulness and silliness. Yeah, you know she is a badass climber and obsessed with climbing, but you can't easily discern how she is deeply compelled by excellence and mastery. Mary tackled off-widths because she didn't like them - they are difficult, require completely different skills, they cause bruises, and you can get stuck in them. She wasn't like, "Oh, I need to learn offwidths so I can deal with them on a multi-pitch or with guiding." Instead she was like, "I'm going to master those bastards." And she did - to the point of repeating climbs like Spatial Relations (5.13R) and flashing What the Big Boys Eat (5.13) in Vedauwoo, Wyoming. And sending Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a) and The Price of Evil (5.13b) in Indian Creek, Utah. |
Mary Eden and Kaya Lindsay (IG: @onechicktravels) at the premiere of the film "Girls Gone Wide 2." (Photo Credit: IG: @Mile_High_Media_House)
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Mary Catherine Eden on "The Wing" (5.12) in Vedauwoo, Wyoming. (Photo Credit: Dan Ballard via @bigbeautypitches)
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Mary Eden on "The Suit" (5.11b) in Vedauwoo, Wyoming. (Photo Credit: Sam Macllwaine IG: @adventuresam)
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But filling that off-width gap still left holes in Mary's climbing fabric - literally and figuratively. So, she decided to climb 5.12 and 5.13 in every size crack and then set her sights on 5.14 trad.
Mary's 5.14 trad ambition had been bubbling in her psyche for some time, but it was really brought to the surface when she met the Wide Boyz Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker. When climbing with them she witnessed next-level skills that gave oxygen to her fire. She knew she couldn't (yet) do what they were sending, but she set aside any embarrassment that might have stopped her and tried any way - it was an opportunity to learn. When Tom saw her climb, he took her seriously. He was one of the first to tell Mary that she is an athlete. When she asked him, "What do I need to do to be able to climb 5.14?" Tom told her, "train off the rock." This was a bit of a shocker. Mary had always been a proponent of the "climbing-is-training" camp - if you aren't climbing on real rock then you are wasting your time. Training off the rock meant implementing a weight lifting and hang board regime, and it meant finding the discipline and motivation to "gym it" - which Mary admits is difficult for her to muster. But Mary gets motivation from the vision - the emotional draw - of a climb that seduces her, as well as from filling perceived "holes" in her climbing skills. Mary credits Tom for helping her break the 5.13 barrier. Tom directly mentors Mary and she also uses his 12-week Lattice training program (Lattice is owned by Tom). Mary trains off the rocks 3-4 days per week and climbs outside on the weekend. And, in case you haven't heard, Mary also reached her 5.14 trad goal by sending Necronomicon, a 100-foot roof crack in the White Rim area of the Canyonlands in southern Utah. |
Tom Randall on "Zebras and Moonbeams" (5.13-) (Photo Credit: Mary Catherine Eden, IG: @tradprincess)
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Mary Catherine Eden sending her first 5.14 trad line "Necronomicon," a 100-foot roof crack in southern Utah. (Photo Credit: Spencer McKay, IG: @spencermkaay)
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Since this edition of Common Climber is focusing on the theme of "strength" - and clearly with sending hard offwidths and 5.14 trad, Mary is "strong" - I was curious about Mary's perspectives on this topic. Her response shows her depth and approach to the world.
"That's tricky. Strength is a big word and can mean so many different things. What it particularly means to me is that strength is about pursuing your goals even when you are uncomfortable - you are working on yourself and growing as a human being." "Climbers focus too much on physical strength and hierarchy. There is a culture of grades and comparison, which can be problematic between people, partnerships, and one's self. One question that annoys me is when people ask 'What grade do you climb?' Well, what do you mean? The highest grade I've ever climbed? The best I have onsighted? The grade in a gym, at a place or on a certain type of rock or style of climbing? The grade I'm climbing now? Or, how about what I climb on a shit day?" Mary elaborates on the shit-day topic. "That's one thing that climbers struggle with - a bad day. They will make a million excuses loudly. Why not just accept it?" True that and guilty. Throughout our conversation, as well as in other interviews she has done, Mary throws out nuggets of climbing wisdom. Like, "Doubting is heavy. If you leave the ground with doubt you won't get that extra 5% that will push you over into a send." And, "To send, we have to learn to disrupt negative thinking cycles - like habitually stopping when we are scared and wasting energy. We can't fix fear, but we can manage it with discipline." When she guides, Mary will often work with people on a fixed line, hanging next to them and helping them work through the crux. Her goal is to act as a voice to redirect the negative thinking. |
When asked about her take on "strength" Mary shared numerous nuggets of wisdom, including "Strength is a big word and can mean so many different things. What it particularly means to me is that strength is about pursuing your goals even when you are uncomfortable - you are working on yourself and growing as a human being." (Photo Credit: Kaya Lindsay, IG: @onechicktravels)
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As I pondered her words, I asked Mary if she has considered being a climbing mindset coach - like a guide but without the body-abuse? With eight years' experience guiding, as well as overcoming her own climbing plateaus and barriers to achieve 5.14 trad, it seemed like a natural fit. Mary's response revealed more: "No. I don't feel experienced enough to do that. I don't have the tools."
She continues, "That's because many times the fear people have isn't really about the climbing. Clients are bringing in other things - their intrusive thoughts, their self-worth. I had a client break down in tears after her first trad lead. She had been in a long-term abusive relationship and her belief in herself was shredded - all of that came out in that moment. I have a lot of respect for the psychology we bring to the table and I am not going to pretend I am an expert in that."
My respect for Mary grew. It is clear Mary has depth, introspection, and the unique ability to identify her own strengths and weaknesses along with her limits, barriers, and boundaries. Mary is purposeful and chooses where to direct her energies to reach her own high expectations for excellence. Mary is also careful in what she reveals, shares, and protects.
An example of this is with her art. Mary is an artist - a damn good one. But she rarely shows her work on social media. I asked Mary if she sells her art and she said, "No. I've done that and regretted it. I miss pieces I've sold. It's like they disappear."
"Art is very personal. Climbing is personal, but more objective. I didn't create the rock climb, so that separation makes it easier for me to share climbing. Creating art is an expression of the heart and that is why I can't sell my pieces. I am happy giving pieces away. I like it when someone I care about hangs a piece of my art in their home."
She continues, "That's because many times the fear people have isn't really about the climbing. Clients are bringing in other things - their intrusive thoughts, their self-worth. I had a client break down in tears after her first trad lead. She had been in a long-term abusive relationship and her belief in herself was shredded - all of that came out in that moment. I have a lot of respect for the psychology we bring to the table and I am not going to pretend I am an expert in that."
My respect for Mary grew. It is clear Mary has depth, introspection, and the unique ability to identify her own strengths and weaknesses along with her limits, barriers, and boundaries. Mary is purposeful and chooses where to direct her energies to reach her own high expectations for excellence. Mary is also careful in what she reveals, shares, and protects.
An example of this is with her art. Mary is an artist - a damn good one. But she rarely shows her work on social media. I asked Mary if she sells her art and she said, "No. I've done that and regretted it. I miss pieces I've sold. It's like they disappear."
"Art is very personal. Climbing is personal, but more objective. I didn't create the rock climb, so that separation makes it easier for me to share climbing. Creating art is an expression of the heart and that is why I can't sell my pieces. I am happy giving pieces away. I like it when someone I care about hangs a piece of my art in their home."
Mary Catherine Eden's Art
Mary is not only a skilled climber and photographer, she is a skilled painter.
ABOVE: Click on the images to enlarge and view the entire painting.
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Mary has both an emotional and technical appreciation of art. She not only enjoys creating art, but loves going to galleries. "I like to look at other people's art and see the craftsmanship. I am impressed when they are technically proficient at x, y, or z." Mary went on to say that she doesn't really have enough time to do art. She maybe gets one piece a year done, if she's lucky. I get the sense that if Mary doesn't have the time to give a piece of art the respect and care it is due, she will wait until it can.
Excellent photographer. Excellent artist. Excellent climber. It seems as though Mary is excellent at whatever she chooses to focus on - not necessarily because of innate talent, but because she is tapped into her passion and is constantly striving towards the things that drive her. With respect to climbing, I wanted to know Mary's "weaknesses" (for lack of a better word). Mary laughed, "I have terrible route memory! I goldfish onsight all the time - which basically means I can climb a route, wait ten minutes, and not remember a damn thing. So, when I climb it again it's like an onsight. I can't even remember a climb name." Mary explained she overcomes that "weakness" by taking pictures, videos, and immediately scribbling notes. Mary also went on to say that she doesn't feel like she is a particularly bold climber - she likes well protected climbs, purposefully avoiding those that are runout. |
Mary and her boyfriend Sam Foreman at the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range, Wyoming.
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However, Mary will climb on junk (hmmm...is that well protected junk?). In fact, that is how she connected with her boyfriend, they were both climbing on some crumbling desert towers and having a blast. There's nothing like bonding over slightly hardened mud.
Speaking of crumbling, Mary recommends allowing for real life - weather, injury, family, work - to get in the way of your goals - to "keep your world from crumbling when you are really focused on a goal or project." "It's common to get attached to goals within a certain time frame. We have our whole lives to work on something. We have to build in and allow for the rest of life." With a full life and a wrist injury that required surgery, Mary practices this approach of allowing. But allowing does not only mean acceptance, it also means a purposeful approach. Mary structures her life in blocks - one block for training, one for school, one for work, one for relationships. This allows her to focus solely on each without distractions - giving 100% to each in the moment - balancing excellence with space. So, Mary climbed Necronomicon, 5.14 trad. A highly significant achievement, one worthy of recognition and applause. But, very little of our conversation was about that climb, or even that she achieved her goal to be able to climb 5.14 trad. In fact, she said, "I am not defined by one climb. Life is more than one route." We are all probably aware of the adage "jack of all trades, master of none." Mary jokes that she sees herself this way, spread thin across the various climbing disciplines, and even spread thin across the other things in life that capture her interest and are expressions of her spirit. But, when you take a look at her tapestry - her climbing and life achievements, along with her approaches to fill the gaps - you can see that Mary is painting a complete picture from the inside out. Mary Catherine Eden is a master of many and has the whole world in front of her. |
Mary on "Optimator" (5.13-) in Indian Creek, Utah. (Photo Credit: Spencer McKay, IG: @spencermckaay)
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Mary Catherine Eden (aka. @tradprincess) getting her sport game on. (Photo Credit: Eric Fallecker, IG: eric_fallecker)
See more of Eric Fallecker's photography.
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Find and Follow
Website: Big Beauty Pitches: https://bigbeautypitches.com/
Instagram: @tradprincess and @bigbeautypitches
Instagram: @tradprincess and @bigbeautypitches