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Social Pressure, Climbing, and Leave No Trace

By Tanya Dreizen
(research conducted with Carol Lee)
(Photo Credit: Daga Dygas) 
Note. The IRB-approved research study described has been accepted for academic publication in the International Journal of Wilderness  (Carol Lee & Tanya Dreizin, in press).  
Climbing is the reason I became interested in the outdoors. As I fell in love with the sport, I began to connect deeply with, and gain reverence for, the natural world around me. Seeing the sport grow since I began climbing over a decade ago has been exciting and positive. With new members in our community come new opportunities for folks to connect and fall in love with the outdoors.
 
Although outdoor climbing is (and should be) available to everyone, growing numbers of new climbers also come with new challenges, including the potential for negative environmental impacts at popular outdoor climbing areas. For example, many climbing areas face environmental issues such as erosion, increases in micro trash, poor disposal of human waste, along with social impacts, including overcrowding and excessive noise. 
 
Having already witnessed some of the above issues at my home crag (Mokuleia, on the North Shore of Oahu), I began to think more about how to mitigate these impacts. In one of our daily text conversations, my friend Carol and I began thinking about how we could use our academic backgrounds (Carol with a PhD in clinical psychology and myself a Master’s in sustainability), love of research, and love of climbing to encourage better stewardship among climbers. We have both observed environmentally unfriendly behavior at our respective crags, and discussed what we think could be the different factors that affect whether or not climbers will act as good crag stewards. This lead us to eventually create a climber survey, but we began with identifying questions that interested both of us:

  • Does social pressure from climbing partners result in better adherence to Leave No Trace behaviors?
  • Does outdoor vs. indoor climbing or preferred type of climbing impact Leave No Trace behaviors?*    ​
Leave No Trace (LNT) is a common framework used by land managers and educators to promote minimal impact practices for outdoor recreation. The seven principles of LNT are as follows:
​
  • plan ahead and prepare
  • travel and camp on durable surfaces
  • dispose of waste properly
  • leave what you find
  • minimize campfire impacts
  • respect wildlife, and
  • be considerate of other visitors.
Picture
Photo Credit: Daga Dygas (Common Climber featured photographer for the February 2020 edition)
LNT is often used for hiking, backpacking and camping, but has also been adapted for rock climbing to address the impacts that climbers have on the natural environment by creating guidelines such as:
  • be considerate of others
  • stay on trails whenever possible
  • respect wildlife, sensitive plants, and soil
  • park and camp in designated spaces, and
  • pack out all trash.
We chose to focus on social pressure for a few reasons. Not only is climbing an inherently social activity (unless you prefer soloing) but the climbing community is one that often self-governs our own sets of rules and ethics. A recent example of climbers self-governing is the incident with a climber bolting over petroglyphs in Moab. In this circumstance climbers identified the action, posted on Mountain Project and found the guilty party (who has since apologized), and opened more discussions within the community around cultural awareness and LNT practices.

​Eventually Carol and I created and implemented a survey asking about demographics, climbing experiences, and general LNT knowledge. For the core of our survey, we presented a series of scenarios that could take place at a crag, and then asked participants how likely they were to take a climbing LNT behavior related to each scenario. Participants were randomly assigned to either receive scenarios in which climbing partners were 
neutral about the LNT behavior, or receive scenarios in which climbing partners encouraged the LNT behavior. ​
Picture
Example scenario from the survey.
Picture
FIGURE 2: Situations presented in the survey and response options (likeliness and pressure)

Results and Discussion

Now, the fun part! We received around 370 responses to our survey, which gave us a great sample size to work with and allowed us to determine statistical significance.
 
The strong response is due to groups such as the Access Fund, Western Massachusetts Climbing Coalition, Kānaka Climbers and the Hawaiʻi Climbing Coalition (to name a few) sharing our survey link on their social media pages.

​Although it is possible there may be sample bias because respondents followed or are members of groups that promote LNT, we still found that respondents were 
more likely to adhere to LNT behaviors when their climbing partners encouraged positive LNT behaviors. Interestingly, we also found that whether an individual climbs predominantly outdoors or indoors did not indicate significant likelihood of participating in LNT behaviors. 
An interesting take-away from this survey is that if we know that climbers are more likely to practice environmentally friendly and pro-LNT behaviors when others around them are also doing this, we need to continue encouraging this behavior.
 
As a community, we need to include intersectional, pro-environmental practices into our norms and ethics. This will, and should, look different at each crag and within different communities around the world, but Leave No Trace can be a great place to start. 
 
As our sport continues to expand, the leaders in our community need to include environmental stewardship in their mentorship. Climbing gyms, local climbing organizations (LCOs) and land managers in national and state parks should collaborate on outreach efforts to encourage positive social pressure that promotes adhering to LNT behaviors, and educate community members about climbing-specific LNT behaviors.

Climbing gyms are often where new climbers are introduced to the sport, cultivate relationships within the community, and provide educational opportunities focusing on safety and climbing etiquette.

Picture
As climbing gyms grow in number, and as more climbers recreate and train in gyms, these often become spaces where social norms, attitudes and ethics in the climbing community are created and perpetuated. ​It is crucial that gyms take on a leadership role in encouraging minimum impact climbing and promoting LNT to the broader climbing community.
 
To do this, we suggest that gyms prioritize education programs (i.e hosting talks or classes discussing minimal-impact climbing and increasing education about local, fragile ecosystems), increase indoor signage and posters that highlight appropriate and inappropriate LNT behaviors, and provide workshops or classes for new and experienced climbers alike to learn about climbing-specific LNT behaviors. By combining efforts and coordinating strategic messaging with climbing gyms, LCOs can emphasize education of climbing-related LNT behaviors on their websites or through various marketing materials. 
 
It is important for groups to collaborate on messaging, because our results indicated that while many climbers understand the LNT principles, that understanding becomes less clear when it comes to specific climbing-related behaviors. For example, many individuals feel that leaving tick marks or cleaning plants is acceptable LNT behavior, when it actually does leave a trace.
 
Of course, sport climbing and bouldering leave traces - we know that bolts are placed and that rocks/trees/bushes are cleared to create safe landing zones or even the chalk from our hand that we leave behind on the rock. We also understand that it’s unlikely individuals will remove all the bolts or re-create unsafe landing zones - instead, we want to encourage future pro-LNT and environmentally friendly behaviors to prevent more harm. 


While climbing gyms are often an entry point for new climbers and space where norms are shaped in the climbing community, there are also numerous platforms specifically for climbers on the internet. Forums, such as those on Reddit and Mountain Project, are spaces for climbers to chat with one another, find partners, and discuss climbing ethics.
 
With the ability to reach mass numbers of outdoor rock climbers, we also would love to see land managers, LCOs and climbing advocacy groups specifically approach influencers for partnerships to promote and model climbing-specific LNT behaviors through photos, captions, videos, and conversations on online platforms. Groups like The Access Fund and Protect Our Winters do a great job hosting influencer takeovers, but it would also be helpful to see climbing influencers more frequently post about pro-environmental behaviors and LNT while climbing. 
 
We know that climbers care and want to preserve the special places that we love. We also know that there is more work to do to make this happen. As a large and growing community, now is the time to look at what we can do individually and collectively to ensure that we don’t destroy the fragile ecosystems that are critical not only to preserving our favorite climbing areas, but to the health and wellbeing of this planet. 

* We use Leave No Trace as a framework for this study, but also refer to pro-environmental and environmentally friendly behaviors, as LNT is not always applicable. Some culture’s traditional ecological knowledge may not follow the LNT framework, but protects and stewards the environment while preserving cultural practices and knowledge. 

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  • Editions
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      • Adaptive Climbing Photo Feature: Paradox Sports
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      • Rock Type 1
      • The Tape Job
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    • Topics >
      • Adaptive Climbing >
        • Adaptive Climbing Edition
        • El Capitan: Enock Glidden
        • Failure is Part of the Price: Rand Abbott Attempts the First Adaptive Lead Ascent of The Nose
        • Quinn Brett Interview
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      • Alpine & Ice >
        • A Chamonix Initiation
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        • Elusive Ice - A Rare Tasmanian Treat
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        • My Common Alpine Epic
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          • Horses for Courses - The Dru Derby 1971
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          • The North Face of the Dru - Chris Baxter
        • Vertical Ice Climbing in Ontario, Canada, eh?
      • Profiles >
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        • A - Shawn Axelrod - Overcoming Boundaries
        • B - Megan Banker - Plus-Sized Climbing Advocate
        • B - Wendy Bruere - More Than It Hurts
        • D - Favia Dubyk - American Ninja Warrior
        • F - Debbie Fowler - A N00bie Climber's Story
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        • E - Ian Elliot - It's All Up From Here
        • H - Lindsey Hamm - The Hamminator
        • H - Sabine Pratt Hunziker - Little Red Riding Hood
        • M - Marisa Michael - Nutrition for Climbers
        • M - Josie McKee: Training the Mind for Joy
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        • S - Louise Shepherd - Aussie Legend
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        • B - John Brailsford Tribute - The Immaculate MOAC
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        • C - Cutcliffe - The Boy from Bothwell – A Tribute to Max Cutcliffe, an Australian Legend
        • G - Brad Gobright
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        • H - Thomas Huber - In Another World - A Personal Climbing Journey
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        • M - Tim Macartney-Snape: ​A Legend from Sea to Summit
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        • R - Early to Rock: David Roots
      • Mental-Physical >
        • Climbing Training Series >
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        • Climbing Through Life
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        • Encouraging Words - At Any Age
        • Everyone Around Me Is Better Than I Am
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        • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws
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        • The Devil's Game
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        • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8
      • Other/Misc >
        • A Day Out With Barnsey
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        • Animal Acts Part 1: Things with Wings
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        • Assault on Schurman Rock
        • Christo's Little Bay Rhapsody
        • Climbing, Community, and the U.S. Presidential Election
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        • Climbing Resolutions
        • Dirtbag Trucker
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        • Don't Take Granite for Granite
        • Dorothy, We Aren't on Havana Anymore
        • Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing
        • GymRhino
        • Memes by Bad Beta Bouldering
        • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb
        • Snakes and Ladders
        • Starting Over
        • Summit Fever
        • Sydney: Growing Up
        • The Adventure of A Lifetime - So Far
        • The Bane of Northwest Climbing
        • The Hangglider Incident
        • The Pink Tricam
        • Things of Stone and Wood
        • We Were Just Boys
        • Zac the Interloper
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          • Consolation Prize
          • Echo Crack and Cracked Egos
          • Email From Italy
          • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited
          • From Yorkshire to Eternity
          • I Like Fake Cracks (And I Cannot Lie)
          • Lost Boys Meets Hard Boys >
            • The Lost Boys: The Epic First Ascent of Mount Warning's Wollumbin Shield
          • Ozymandias Direct - Fifty Years of Fun and Games
          • The Fourth Bolt of Texas Radio
          • The Matterhorn
          • Thumbing The Nose at Mr. CF Jingus
          • Tiptoeing Through Some Bungles
          • Tombstone Territory
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
        • Location Reviews
        • My Home Crag >
          • Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky
          • Copen Hill Climbing Wall
          • Drytooling in the Rain - Wayne's World, WA
          • My Home Crag: Nowra, NSW, Australia
          • New River Gorge, West Virgina
          • The Kenyan Climber
        • Travel Stories >
          • Blue Mountains - Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys
          • Buenos Aires, Argentina Crag
          • Colorado - Calling Pat Ament
          • Coolum Cave - Sendfest 8
          • Desert Special Forces Adventures: Part 1
          • Ecuador - A Nation of Four Worlds
          • Egypt: The Sinai Sampler
          • El Potrero Chico - Riding the Dirty Dog
          • Yosemite: Growing Up
          • Lover's Leap - Zone of Craptitude
          • Moonarie
          • Rio de Janeiro - Classic Climbs Sampler
          • Sintra, Portugal
          • Taghia, Morocco - Hardly Failing
          • Tasmania - Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’
          • Thailand - Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
          • Vedauwoo, WY
          • What Two Friends Uncovered in Verdon
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
          • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing
      • Poetry/Prose >
        • A Bard of Yosemite
        • Anti-Social Climbers
        • Sojourn at Dyuritte
        • Finding Poetry
        • Ice is Nice
        • The Space Between
      • Safety and Skills >
        • Bolting and Ground-Fall Potential
        • Euro-Death Knot is NOT
        • Multi-Pitch Tips: Two ATCs
        • Sketchy Anchor Bolts
        • Sliding-X Anchor
        • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip
        • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices
      • Social, Social Media, & Social Issues >
        • A Delicate Balance - Gariwerd
        • Chossy Trio Renegades
        • Climbing into the Fold
        • Diversity in Climbing is Not a Bandwagon
        • Don't Burn Out
        • From Gortex to Camouflage: The story of climber, Irina Galay and climbing’s responses to the war in Ukraine
        • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs"
        • I Am a Woman: Brie Chartier Shares Her Transition Journey
        • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
        • My Husband Climbs Stronger than Me
        • Navajo Rising
        • Social Network Rescue
        • Social Pressure, Climbing, and Leave No Trace
        • The Alps Will Have to Wait
        • The First Climbing Gym Union?
  • Marketplace
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    • Climbing Addicts Colored Chalk
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  • Reviews
    • Book Reviews >
      • Advanced Rock Climbing Book Review
      • Adventures at the Edge of the World
      • Climbing Glass Book Review
      • Climbing Rock: Vertical Explorations Across North America
      • Hangdog Days Book Review
      • HOOKING UP: The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual
      • Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • Red Curtain - Book Review
      • Sydney Climbing - Book Review
      • The Greater Fool - Brad Gobright and the Blinding Shine of Originality
      • The Mountain Path Book Review
      • The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story - Book Review
      • Uncoiling the Ropes
      • Valley of Giants
      • Yosemite Bigwalls: The Ultimate Guide Review
    • Equipment/Gear Reviews >
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        • Edelrid Mega Jul
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        • ArcTeryx-FL-365
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        • Sukoa Chalk Bag Review
        • Trango Crag Pack
      • Personal Anchor Systems >
        • Camp-Daisy-Twist
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        • D4 Delta2P Portaledge
        • Skyhook Stick Clip Review
    • Location Reviews >
      • Australia >
        • Queensland, Australia >
          • Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
          • Kangaroo Point Review
        • New South Wales Australia >
          • Blue Mountains >
            • Blue Mountains Photos and Beta
            • Blue Mountains Review
          • Nowra >
            • Nowra Review >
              • Nowra Photos and Beta
      • Mexico >
        • Potrero Chico Photos and Beta
        • Potrero Chico Review
      • United States >
        • Climbing Area Check List - U.S. >
          • Climbing Area Check List Part 1: Alabama to California
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 2: Colorado to Michigan
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 3: Minnesota to New Mexico
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 4: New York to Wyoming
        • Arizona >
          • Queen Creek Canyon
        • California >
          • Joshua Tree >
            • Joshua Tree Tips
          • Mount Whitney >
            • Mount Whitney Photos and Beta
        • Idaho
        • Oregon >
          • Smith Rock >
            • Smith Rock - Photos and Beta
            • Smith Rock Review
          • Spring Mountain >
            • Spring Mountain Review
            • Spring Mountain - Photos and Beta
          • Trout Creek >
            • Trout Creek Photos and Beta
            • Trout Creek Review
        • Nevada >
          • Gun Club
          • Keyhole Canyon
          • Mt. Charleston, Nevada
          • Red Rock Canyon >
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            • Red Rock Canyon Photos and Beta
        • New Hampshire >
          • North Conway, NH
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          • Gunks Review
        • Utah >
          • Echo Canyon
          • Ferguson Canyon >
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            • Ferguson Canyon Review
          • Ibex >
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            • Ibex Review
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        • West Virginia >
          • Seneca Rocks
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          • Ten Sleep
  • Photographers & Artists
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