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Ferguson Canyon, UT: Review - Yeahs & Neahs

The ground rules for climbing location "yeahs" and "neahs"
  • Each location will receive an opinion rating - "It Rocks!", "Worth It," "Meh," or "Trash."
  • Each crag has its own personality with unique advantages and challenges, which are highlighted.
  • It is tempting to list “beautiful” as a “yeah,” but that is true for a lot of crags. I allude to beauty and scenery in the summary. You can also (sometimes) tell by the photo. If the place is a dump, then that will be listed in the “neahs” and rated as "Meh" or "Trash.
 
Summary

Ferguson Canyon is located south of Salt Lake City, UT, adjacent to Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons. With so much climbing in Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons, one might wonder why come here? Well, for one, it is dog friendly (you can’t bring dogs into either of the Cottonwood Canyons). You can also top rope quite a few climbs.
 
Ferguson is a small local crag with a couple hundred single pitch trad and sport routes. A large number of the routes are trad, but there are enough sport and top-rope accessible climbs that there is something for everyone. The vast majority of routes end in bolted anchors. 
 
The rock is a high quality, solid quartz monzonite (similar to granite) that provides interesting and varied climbing. The rock can get slick on frequented climbs, but other than that has descent friction. 
 
The climbing areas are spread out across a single trail that enters into the canyon. Some areas only have a few climbs on smaller sections of rock. There are two areas with the most concentrated number of climbs (around 45 climbs each): Watchtower and Cathedral. 
 
The approach is an easy 10 to 15-minute walk on a well-trodden, shaded trail.
 
Directions
 
From the North: From I-15, take I-80 east (exit 304) to I-215 S (exit 128), follow the from I-215 directions below.
From the South: From I-15, take I-215 towards the mountains.
From I-215: Exit onto E 6200 S (exit 6) and head south-southeast on Wasatch Blvd (towards the mountains) for about 2 miles then turn left onto a small road that brings you to Prospector Drive. Head south on Prospector Drive (Prospector drive is also accessible from Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd) then turn north onto Timberline Drive. There is public parking here. There is also overflow parking along the road Prospector Dr. 
 
Grading, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips

Many of the routes were established in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Watch out for the routes established in the early 1980s, they use the old school gradings and some could be considered heavily sandbagged when compared to today's grading.

The area offers a diversity of moderate and modernly-rated climbs from 5.4 to 5.12, with a good distribution in the 5.8-5.10 range.
 
The local guidebooks are:
  • Ferguson Canyon Rock Climbing by Tony Calderone (2016)
    • Print Guide: Carried by local REIs (there is one not far from the canyon) or purchased online at (~$10):  http://www.mountaindreamer.net/store/p2/FergusonCanyonRockClimbingPrintGuide
    • Rakkup digital guide for your phone (~$3 to rent and $6 to buy): https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/ferguson-canyon-rock-climbing/
  • Ferguson to Lone Peak: A Granite Guide by Nathan Smith, Andrew Burr, Tyler Phillips
     (2016) (~$45): http://www.pullpublishing.com/books-1/a-granite-guide 
    • Also available at local outdoor stores and The Front climbing gym.
  • Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range by Stuart Ruckman and Bret Ruckman (~1998) (~$35):  https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Wasatch-Range-Regional/dp/0762727306 
  • Mountain Project: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/ferguson-canyon/105739289

Camping

There is no camping at Ferguson Canyon, as it is located adjacent to a neighborhood and is day use only. There is camping in nearby Big Cottonwood Canyon, approximately 10-13 miles into the canyon (Canyon Spruces campground and Redman Campground, see below). There is also camping in Little Cottonwood Canyon about 5 miles in (Tanners Flat Campground, see below)

  • Canyon Spruces Campground: http://www.recreation.gov/camping/spruces/r/campgroundDetails.do?contractCode=NRSO&parkId=70331
  • Redman Campground: http://www.recreation.gov/camping/redman-campground/r/campgroundDetails.do?contractCode=NRSO&parkId=70316
  • Tanners Flat Campground: http://www.reserveamerica.com/camping/tanners-flat/r/campgroundDetails.do?contractCode=NRSO&parkId=70341
 
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style

Ferguson Canyon is comprised of quartz monzonite, somewhat similar to granite, but different enough to be its own unique experience. The rock tends to be blocky and featured with horizontal cracks (keep that in mind when climbing trad). Many of the climbs are trad, but there is a mix of sport and and top rope here. The style of climbing is featured face.

Yeahs
  • You can find shaded climbing in the summer.
  • Dogs are allowed.
  • Rock quality is good.
  • Top rope set-up access is good.
  • Nice variety of climbs and ratings.
  • People seem to take good care of it and clean up after themselves.
  • It’s a local and social type of crag.
  • The approach is reasonable and straight forward.
  • There is designated parking (although it can get full when busy).
  • There is a nice variety of trad and sport.

Neahs
  • Routes tend to be on the shorter side – 30-40 feet, but there are a few 100 - 160 foot routes (which can be done as single or multi-pitch routes). 
  • Watch out for routes established in the early 1980s, as they use the old school grading system. Some of the routes could be considered heavily sandbagged. 
  • Honestly, I can’t really think of any significant neahs. It’s not “world class” but that’s not really worthy of a neah.  

Opinion Rating

Worth It!

This is a fun, clean neighborhood crag. It’s hard to compete with the neighboring world-class climbing in Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons, but that’s not what this place is about.

Photos and beta for Ferguson Canyon

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        • M - Tim Macartney-Snape: ​A Legend from Sea to Summit
        • M - John Middendorf
      • Mental-Physical >
        • Climbing Training Series >
          • Improving Hip Mobility
          • Rock Climber Mobility
          • Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining
        • A Climb Worth Fighting For
        • Achilles
        • Everyone Around Me Is Better Than I Am
        • Fear, Pride, and Exploration
        • How Auto-Immune Disease Affected My Climbing
        • Mastering Joy on Easy Street
        • Mind, Body, and Soul
        • My Demon Has a Name
        • New Year's Resolutions
        • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws
        • Push and Pull
        • Sorcerer and the Kidney Stone
        • Take Risks - You'll Remember Them Later
        • The Art of Climbing Without Rock
        • The Devil's Game
        • The Taste of Climbing
        • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8
      • Other/Misc >
        • Assault on Schurman Rock
        • Book Club
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        • Climbing Resolutions
        • Demented Dirtbag
        • Don't Take Granite for Granite
        • Dorothy, We Aren't on Havana Anymore
        • Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing
        • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb
        • Snakes and Ladders
        • Starting Over
        • The Adventure of A Lifetime - So Far
        • The Bane of Northwest Climbing
        • The Pink Tricam
        • Things of Stone and Wood
        • Zac the Interloper
      • Places & Climbs >
        • Climbs >
          • Consolation Prize
          • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited
          • From Yorkshire to Eternity
          • Tiptoeing Through Some Bungles
          • Tombstone Territory
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
        • Location Reviews
        • My Home Crag >
          • Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky
          • Drytooling in the Rain - Wayne's World, WA
          • My Home Crag: Nowra, NSW, Australia
        • Travel Stories >
          • Blue Mountains - Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys
          • Buenos Aires, Argentina Crag
          • Colorado - Calling Pat Ament
          • Coolum Cave - Sendfest 8
          • Ecuador - A Nation of Four Worlds
          • El Potrero Chico - Riding the Dirty Dog
          • Yosemite: Growing Up
          • Lover's Leap - Zone of Craptitude
          • Rio de Janeiro - Classic Climbs Sampler
          • Taghia, Morocco - Hardly Failing
          • Tasmania - Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’
          • Thailand - Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
          • Vedauwoo, WY
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
          • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing
        • 2020 U.S. Rock Climbing Festivals
      • Poetry/Prose >
        • Anti-Social Climbers
        • Sojourn at Dyuritte
        • Finding Poetry
        • Ice is Nice
        • The Space Between
      • Safety and Skills >
        • Bolting and Ground-Fall Potential
        • Euro-Death Knot is NOT
        • Multi-Pitch Tips: Two ATCs
        • Sketchy Anchor Bolts
        • Sliding-X Anchor
        • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip
        • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices
      • Science Fiction >
        • Red Curtain: Prologue
      • Social, Social Media, & Social Issues >
        • Chossy Trio Renegades
        • Climbing into the Fold
        • Diversity in Climbing is Not a Bandwagon
        • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs"
        • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
        • My Husband Climbs Stronger than Me
        • Navajo Rising
        • Social Network Rescue
  • Marketplace
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  • Reviews
    • Books >
      • Advanced Rock Climbing Book Review
      • Adventures at the Edge of the World
      • Climbing Rock: Vertical Explorations Across North America
      • Hangdog Days Book Review
      • Hooking Up: The Ultimate Big Wall and Climbing Guide
      • Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story - Book Review
    • Equipment/Gear Reviews >
      • Belay Device Review >
        • Edelrid Mega Jul
      • Harnesses >
        • ArcTeryx-FL-365
        • Misty Mountain Cadillac
      • Packs and Bags >
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        • Trango Crag Pack
      • Personal Anchor Systems >
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      • Other >
        • Dr. Piton's Review of the D4 Delta2P Portaledge
    • Location Reviews >
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          • Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
          • Kangaroo Point Review
        • New South Wales Australia >
          • Blue Mountains >
            • Blue Mountains Photos and Beta
            • Blue Mountains Review
          • Nowra >
            • Nowra Review >
              • Nowra Photos and Beta
      • Mexico >
        • Potrero Chico Photos and Beta
        • Potrero Chico Review
      • United States >
        • Climbing Area Check List - U.S. >
          • Climbing Area Check List Part 1: Alabama to California
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 2: Colorado to Michigan
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 3: Minnesota to New Mexico
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 4: New York to Wyoming
        • Arizona >
          • Queen Creek Canyon
        • California >
          • Joshua Tree >
            • Joshua Tree Tips
          • Mount Whitney >
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        • Idaho >
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            • City of Rocks Photos and Beta
            • City of Rocks Review
        • Oregon >
          • Smith Rock >
            • Smith Rock - Photos and Beta
            • Smith Rock Review
          • Spring Mountain >
            • Spring Mountain Review
            • Spring Mountain - Photos and Beta
          • Trout Creek >
            • Trout Creek Photos and Beta
            • Trout Creek Review
        • Nevada >
          • Gun Club
          • Keyhole Canyon
          • Mt. Charleston, Nevada
          • Red Rock Canyon >
            • Red Rock Canyon Review - Yeahs and Neahs
            • Red Rocks Photos and Beta
        • New Hampshire >
          • North Conway, NH
          • Rumney, NH
        • New York >
          • Gunks Review
        • Utah >
          • Echo Canyon
          • Ferguson Canyon >
            • Ferguson Canyon Photos and Beta
            • Ferguson Canyon Review
          • Ibex >
            • Ibex Photos and Beta
            • Ibex Review
          • Maple Canyon >
            • Maple Canyon, Utah Photos and Beta
            • Maple Canyon Review
          • Moab >
            • Moab - Main - Photos and Beta
            • Moab -Main - Review
          • St. George >
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall- Photos and Beta
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall - Review
        • West Virginia >
          • Seneca Rocks
        • Wyoming >
          • Ten Sleep
  • Photographers & Artists
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