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Lost and Found:
​A Mini-Epic in Paradise

​By Saxon Johns
The year 2000 had arrived. I was with a bunch of friends sipping water on Bondi Beach listening to Carl Cox, far from our computers. The word in the tech community was that the whole world might glitch on the Y2K bug. As we listened to the digital music we wondered if it would end at midnight, struck down as the planet’s computers crashed. There was a pause, but it was just the DJ playing with us, and then music continued, and our minds strayed to the year ahead – the new millennium.

Where would we go, what would we do…? Then Craig came up with an idea. “How about Thailand,” he said, “climbing above the beach on pristine limestone?” It took a couple of days for the idea to sink in but soon we found ourselves at the travel agent, booking tickets quick smart.
“This place, Railey Beach, is siiiick” he proclaimed in his skater lingo. “A climbing mecca which is cheap, easy to get to from here, and relatively quiet.” 
Seemingly in no time we were barreling down the stairs in Singapore airport, our stop-over on the way to Thailand. Our cab driver, in perfect Singaporean English, started ranting on about French Ticklers, and we cackled on, knowing this would be a hilarious trip. After some electronics shopping, a trendy bar, and a wander down the main drag, we felt like we’d had our micro-dose of Singapore and were ready for the real adventure.

In no time we touched down in Krabi to screeching tyres and hopped on a long-tail boat. Craig had undergone a manic negotiation with the driver on boat fares and we’d settled on a figure that kept both parties happy. It was a decidedly utilitarian welcome to Thailand and a less than idyllic introduction to this otherwise paradise we’d landed in.

The long-tail putted around the jungled shore. After an hour or so we saw the collection of huts on Railey East. Being low tide, we waded onto the beach with bags carried above our heads, safe from the corrosive salt water. We had arrived.
Picture
Tonsai Bay

​Craig had been here before, years earlier, and knew of some novel accommodation - an insider tip he’d received from an American climber who used Railey as a base and would do runs to the Cambodian border to renew his visa. The room we finally rented was up a ladder, actually built into a tree, with slender posts supporting its perimeter. Craig had attempted to get the best deal for us and chose a room with only one bed, a double. No dramas, we’d shared plenty of tents in our time climbing together and had no qualms about sleeping next to each other, just so long as the snoring was kept to a minimum. 
The next few days and nights were a riot. We visited crag after crag and developed a method of knowing when to be extra careful on belay – when the leader started dripping sweat onto the ground faster than normal, we’d know that the moves were hard. This technique was particularly useful when a long-tail boat flew past as the calls of “Watch me, I’m pumped out of my gourd!!!” were drowned out by the passing engine noise. In the evenings we’d regale our fellow climbers with epic tales of run-outs and dynos, growing in intensity as we lubricated our joints with tasty Thai beverages. 
Now these beverages weren’t your common or garden-variety cocktails. We watched, bemused, as a neighbouring table drank from a bucket with straws and we knew, from their laughing and gesticulating, that they were onto a rare cultural gem. We ordered one and never looked back, I think anyway, because the rest of the evening was a little blurry to say the least. These “buckets” were filled with local whisky and topped up with their energy drink, either Red Bull, Shark, or Lipovitan D, the latter sounding particularly medicinal and therapeutic, but wasn’t… 

The mornings-after the night-before were always entertaining, and we’d be woken early by squirrels scurrying on the roof and eaves, determined to punish us for being so rowdy the night before, and interrupting their sleep. We’d wander down to the beach, carefully stepping over sleeping revelers, trying to guess which country they were from by their clothing, or general state of undress. Coffee would always bring us back around and we’d look at the surrounding cliffs, eyeing potential lines for the day. ​​
Picture
Climbing at high tide on the sea cliffs.

We’d been focusing on the routes on the beach, but one morning we both found ourselves gazing into the distance, looking at the spire of Thaiwand Wall. We grabbed our gear and set off through the jungle, sweating. We’d chosen a classic 23 (5.11d), Circus Oz, put up early in the place’s development by Malcolm HB Matheson, a stalwart of Grampians/Mount Arapiles climbing in Australia.

After some amazing pitches on pristine limestone we neared the summit, and I embarked on the last pitch, a “cruisey” 21 (5.11a) - according to our memory of the guide. With some grunting and chicken-winging I made it to the final belay on the summit, “Geez that felt like a Sydney Sea Cliffs 21 (5.11a+++)”, I muttered. I later found out that we had gone off route and had ended up on Lord of the Thais, this last pitch being the crux, a 25 (5.12b)!  
Craig fell on 2nd, swinging out into the void, cursing. A tired battle ensued, and I watched him fight his way back onto the wall, and fall, and fall again. Finally he got though the crux and romped the last section to join me on top. At that moment the sun set and left us in pitch black. There didn’t even seem to be any twilight, just this sudden fade. We knew then that this was going to be no ordinary day at the crag – we still had to rap down the multi-pitch overhanging route in the dark. Several blind abseils later, terrified and tired, we reached terra firma and kissed the solid ground.
Picture
Climbing in the jungle.
Picture
Thaiwand Wall

​Then the real Type 2 fun began. We pulled the rope, stuffed it into our bag and glanced around, or at least tried to because at that stage, in the jungle, we were totally invisible to each other. “Look out for cobras”, Craig whispered helpfully. “Thanks, man,” I replied.  
We sat, legs out in front of us like feelers, and began the perilous descent back to the beach. After a few metres my legs felt only thin air. “Shit, it’s a cliff, what are we going to do?” “I don’t know but surely someone will hear us down on the beach if we shout for help.” At that point we ran out of courage, the adrenaline having just plain run out.  
​
“HELP!!!! Come with a light! We’re stuck up here!"


Fortunately a roving security guard heard us and clambered up through the jungle. We were safe.
  
What had begun as a run-of-the-mill day had become one of the most memorable epics of my life.
​
We enjoyed our beer that evening! Oh, and I always carry a head-torch with me now, even if I’m just going down to the corner store. ​
Picture

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  • Common Climber
  • Writing
    • All Writings (List)
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        • Adaptive Climbing Edition >
          • Adaptive Climbing Photo Feature: Paradox Sports
          • Advocating for Deaf Climbers: Sonya Wilson
          • Amputations: Leg Prosthesis for Climbing
          • Blind Ambition Builds a World Class Climber: The Story of Jesse Dufton
          • Climbing with Type 1 Diabetes
          • First Paralyzed Ascents: Rand Abbott
          • Mixed Climbing: My Answer to KT Syndrome
          • Paraclimbing Competitions: Althlete Interviews
          • Rock!
          • The Unreasonable Man
        • Belaytionships Edition >
          • Featured Photographer: Charlie OlGrady-Kessner
          • Belaytionships: Drew-and-Sarah
          • Belaytionships: Jeantique and Natalie
          • Belaytionships: Maggie and Charlie Odette
          • I Am My Father's Son: Layton Bridwell
          • Book Review: Uncoiling the Ropes
          • Zac the Interloper
        • Big Wall Edition >
          • Book Review: Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
          • Featured Photographer: Matt Spohn
          • Grading Commitment
          • Hanging with the Monkeys, and Getting the Monkey Off My Back
          • It Was His Time: Brad Gobright Interview May 2019
          • John Middendorf : A Big Man for a Big Stone
          • Sébastien Berthe Free Climbs the Nose From the Ground Up
          • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
        • Developers and Guidebook Authors >
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          • Andrew Penny - A Blue Mountaineer
          • Kevin Powell
          • Rock Star Groupie
          • Tony Calderone
        • Exploring Our World >
          • AUSTRALIA - Photographer - Diego Perez
          • AUSTRALIA - Profile - Julie Anderson
          • Book Review - Climbing Rock
          • CHINA - From Yangshuo, to Getu, to Liming
          • FRANCE - Verdon in Winter
          • GREECE - Meteora
          • ITALY - Dolomites
          • MEXICO - La Huasteca
          • SPAIN - Artist - Karmelo Onate
          • UTAH - Maple Canyon: This One Makes You Taller
        • Honoring Diversity >
          • ARTIST: Shawn Lee
          • A Shift on Moonlight Buttress
          • Claiming a Space on the Mountain
          • Colorblind
          • Feature Photographer: Bryan Sillorequez
          • Is Diversity in America Diverse?
          • MOVIE: People of Climbing:
          • Profile - Favia Dubyk
          • The Lineage
        • Joshua Tree >
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          • Improv at JTree: Bad Bolts
          • JTree: Bolting Pressure Cooker
          • Joshua Tree: Heinous Approaches
        • Overcoming Boundaries >
          • Photographer - Brook Anderson
          • Profile - Louise Shepherd
          • Profile - Megan Banker
          • Profile - Shawn Axelrod
          • Rock Type 1
          • The Tape Job
        • Women's Edition >
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          • Profile - Caitlin Schokker
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        • Profile - Caitlin Schokker
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        • CoVID-19 Remakes Our Lives
        • Dear Memory
        • From Couch to Lifting Couches
        • How to Climb and Avoid the Corona Virus
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        • Trying to Send this Route
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        • A Rack Retrospective
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        • Carabiner Strength Ratings
        • Climbing Shoes Fit
        • Guide Book Follies
        • Rope Buying 101
        • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
        • The One Item to Stockpile
        • Which Way Should I Carry My Trad Rack?
        • Why GriGris Suck
        • 8 Reasons I Carry a Full Rack on Every Trad Climb
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        • Grading Climbs at the Gym
        • It's a F-ing Chimney
        • Onsight vs Flash vs Etc...
        • Top 10: Increase the Climbing Grade When...
        • Trad Climbing is for Chicken Sh*#s
        • WTF 5.7?
        • 18 Climber Types: Which Are You?
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        • G - Todd Gordon
        • H - Hugh Herr
        • H - Thomas Huber - In Another World - A Personal Climbing Journey
        • J - Saxon Johns
        • M - Tim Macartney-Snape: ​A Legend from Sea to Summit
        • M - John Middendorf
      • Mental-Physical >
        • Climbing Training Series >
          • Improving Hip Mobility
          • Rock Climber Mobility
          • Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining
        • A Climb Worth Fighting For
        • Achilles
        • Everyone Around Me Is Better Than I Am
        • Fear, Pride, and Exploration
        • How Auto-Immune Disease Affected My Climbing
        • Mastering Joy on Easy Street
        • Mind, Body, and Soul
        • My Demon Has a Name
        • New Year's Resolutions
        • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws
        • Push and Pull
        • Sorcerer and the Kidney Stone
        • Take Risks - You'll Remember Them Later
        • The Art of Climbing Without Rock
        • The Devil's Game
        • The Taste of Climbing
        • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8
      • Other/Misc >
        • Assault on Schurman Rock
        • Book Club
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        • Climbing Resolutions
        • Demented Dirtbag
        • Don't Take Granite for Granite
        • Dorothy, We Aren't on Havana Anymore
        • Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing
        • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb
        • Snakes and Ladders
        • Starting Over
        • The Adventure of A Lifetime - So Far
        • The Bane of Northwest Climbing
        • The Pink Tricam
        • Things of Stone and Wood
        • Zac the Interloper
      • Places & Climbs >
        • Climbs >
          • Consolation Prize
          • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited
          • From Yorkshire to Eternity
          • Tiptoeing Through Some Bungles
          • Tombstone Territory
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
        • Location Reviews
        • My Home Crag >
          • Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky
          • Drytooling in the Rain - Wayne's World, WA
          • My Home Crag: Nowra, NSW, Australia
        • Travel Stories >
          • Blue Mountains - Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys
          • Buenos Aires, Argentina Crag
          • Colorado - Calling Pat Ament
          • Coolum Cave - Sendfest 8
          • Ecuador - A Nation of Four Worlds
          • El Potrero Chico - Riding the Dirty Dog
          • Yosemite: Growing Up
          • Lover's Leap - Zone of Craptitude
          • Rio de Janeiro - Classic Climbs Sampler
          • Taghia, Morocco - Hardly Failing
          • Tasmania - Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’
          • Thailand - Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
          • Vedauwoo, WY
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
          • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing
        • 2020 U.S. Rock Climbing Festivals
      • Poetry/Prose >
        • Anti-Social Climbers
        • Sojourn at Dyuritte
        • Finding Poetry
        • Ice is Nice
        • The Space Between
      • Safety and Skills >
        • Bolting and Ground-Fall Potential
        • Euro-Death Knot is NOT
        • Multi-Pitch Tips: Two ATCs
        • Sketchy Anchor Bolts
        • Sliding-X Anchor
        • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip
        • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices
      • Science Fiction >
        • Red Curtain: Prologue
      • Social, Social Media, & Social Issues >
        • Chossy Trio Renegades
        • Climbing into the Fold
        • Diversity in Climbing is Not a Bandwagon
        • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs"
        • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
        • My Husband Climbs Stronger than Me
        • Navajo Rising
        • Social Network Rescue
  • Marketplace
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  • Reviews
    • Books >
      • Advanced Rock Climbing Book Review
      • Adventures at the Edge of the World
      • Climbing Rock: Vertical Explorations Across North America
      • Hangdog Days Book Review
      • HOOKING UP: The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual
      • Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story - Book Review
    • Equipment/Gear Reviews >
      • Belay Device Review >
        • Edelrid Mega Jul
      • Harnesses >
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        • Misty Mountain Cadillac
      • Packs and Bags >
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        • Trango Crag Pack
      • Personal Anchor Systems >
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      • Other >
        • Dr. Piton's Review of the D4 Delta2P Portaledge
    • Location Reviews >
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          • Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
          • Kangaroo Point Review
        • New South Wales Australia >
          • Blue Mountains >
            • Blue Mountains Photos and Beta
            • Blue Mountains Review
          • Nowra >
            • Nowra Review >
              • Nowra Photos and Beta
      • Mexico >
        • Potrero Chico Photos and Beta
        • Potrero Chico Review
      • United States >
        • Climbing Area Check List - U.S. >
          • Climbing Area Check List Part 1: Alabama to California
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 2: Colorado to Michigan
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 3: Minnesota to New Mexico
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 4: New York to Wyoming
        • Arizona >
          • Queen Creek Canyon
        • California >
          • Joshua Tree >
            • Joshua Tree Tips
          • Mount Whitney >
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        • Idaho >
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            • City of Rocks Photos and Beta
            • City of Rocks Review
        • Oregon >
          • Smith Rock >
            • Smith Rock - Photos and Beta
            • Smith Rock Review
          • Spring Mountain >
            • Spring Mountain Review
            • Spring Mountain - Photos and Beta
          • Trout Creek >
            • Trout Creek Photos and Beta
            • Trout Creek Review
        • Nevada >
          • Gun Club
          • Keyhole Canyon
          • Mt. Charleston, Nevada
          • Red Rock Canyon >
            • Red Rock Canyon Review - Yeahs and Neahs
            • Red Rocks Photos and Beta
        • New Hampshire >
          • North Conway, NH
          • Rumney, NH
        • New York >
          • Gunks Review
        • Utah >
          • Echo Canyon
          • Ferguson Canyon >
            • Ferguson Canyon Photos and Beta
            • Ferguson Canyon Review
          • Ibex >
            • Ibex Photos and Beta
            • Ibex Review
          • Maple Canyon >
            • Maple Canyon, Utah Photos and Beta
            • Maple Canyon Review
          • Moab >
            • Moab - Main - Photos and Beta
            • Moab -Main - Review
          • St. George >
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall- Photos and Beta
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall - Review
        • West Virginia >
          • Seneca Rocks
        • Wyoming >
          • Ten Sleep
  • Photographers & Artists
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