The ground rules for climbing location "yeahs" and "neahs"
Summary
Located near downtown Brisbane, Australia, Kangaroo Point is an ideal urban crag, if there ever was one. There is plenty of parking, the climbing is 10 steps from your car door, the rock is solid, there are covered picnic tables, a view of the downtown and the adjacent river, and lights for night-time climbing. The top of the cliff is accessible by stairs and many of the routes can be top-roped. There is both trad and sport climbing. What's not to love? There are a few things to note, however, so read on.
Directions
Kangaroo Point is located near downtown Brisbane and about 25 minutes from the Brisbane airport. These directions are from the airport. Note: There are toll roads, which can be avoided. And, one-way streets and right turns across traffic can make access a bit tricky.
Grading, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
Australia has its own climbing grades ranging from 9-35 (5.6 to 5.14d YDS). There are a good variety of easy to more difficult climbs at Kangaroo Point. First bolts can be high, so a stick clip is helpful. The bolting here is variable and should be considered carefully before leading a climb. Some climbs are run out or bolts are poorly placed and can result in ground fall. Other climbs use the old “carrot” system, where a bolt is in the rock, you carry your own plates and then place the plate over the bolt, and clip your draw into the plate (note that some draws do not work well with these plates - the carabiners need to be large enough to hold the plate into place). Many of the intermediate and higher climbs, 17 and above, have good bolting.
Some of the climbs also end in perma-draws, but not all. Bolts at the top are often off-set, so it is helpful to use an equalizing anchor system (rather than quick draws), especially if you plan to top-rope climbs with multiple people. Glue-in U-bolts are often used, which are difficult to put in and replace, so do not top rope or lower directly from the anchor bolts. Instead use an anchor and after cleaning rappel or, if the anchors are close enough to the top, walk-off.
Guidebooks and Climbing Resources:
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
The rock is rhyolite, which is like a compressed volcanic tuff. This rhyolite is quite different in texture from the rhyolite of Smith Rock, Oregon, which is sharp and, for the most part, has a lot of friction. Here the rock has a lot of slick patina surfaces with some “thank goodness” intermittent areas of friction.
The climbing is primarily face with odd, blocky holds many sloping in unfavorable or less comfortable directions requiring circus-like body positions to keep from falling off. The rock is quite interesting to climb and difficult to predict from below (one climb we went on looked easy from below and it was anything but). The uniqueness and variability of the rock results in adjacent climbs being quite different from one another – this makes this small crag all the more interesting.
Camping
This is an urban crag, so camping is not nearby.
Yeahs
Neahs
Opinion Rating
Worth it!
Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
- Each location will receive an opinion rating - "It Rocks!", "Worth It," "Meh," or "Trash."
- Each crag has its own personality with unique advantages and challenges, which are highlighted.
- It is tempting to list “beautiful” as a “yeah,” but that is true for a lot of crags. I allude to beauty and scenery in the summary. You can also (sometimes) tell by the photo. If the place is a dump, then that will be listed in the “neahs” and rated as "Meh" or "Trash.
Summary
Located near downtown Brisbane, Australia, Kangaroo Point is an ideal urban crag, if there ever was one. There is plenty of parking, the climbing is 10 steps from your car door, the rock is solid, there are covered picnic tables, a view of the downtown and the adjacent river, and lights for night-time climbing. The top of the cliff is accessible by stairs and many of the routes can be top-roped. There is both trad and sport climbing. What's not to love? There are a few things to note, however, so read on.
Directions
Kangaroo Point is located near downtown Brisbane and about 25 minutes from the Brisbane airport. These directions are from the airport. Note: There are toll roads, which can be avoided. And, one-way streets and right turns across traffic can make access a bit tricky.
- North from the airport (via toll roads): Follow airport Drive to M7; Merge onto M3 briefly, then onto 77 south. Take 77 south towards the Brisbane river and merge onto 10, crossing the river. 10 becomes Grey Street , which you will follow turning into different roads (L onto Vulture, L onto Dock, which turns into Lower River Terrace) trying to stay near the shoreline. Follow Lower River Terrace until you see the cliffs and parking adjacent to the cliffs.
- To avoid tolls from the N take 26 all the way to 15. Head S on 15 crossing the bridge. Exit onto River Terrace (before you get to Quinton Street). Take River Terrace, which turns into Leopard Street. Turn towards the river onto Ellis St. Then jog around left and then right on Lower River Terrace until you get to the main park road adjacent to the river. Follow the road to the right towards the cliffs.
- Approaching from the south from the airport: (via toll roads): Take M1. Just after the crossing the river, go W (R) on 24 (Lytton Rd). Keep following 24 which has several name changes (Lytton to Junction). Go R (SW) on 23 (Wynnum Rd). 23 and 10 join briefly, but stay on 23 (still Wynnum, then Lytton again near the river, then becoming Shafston). 23 follows the river, heading SW then turning NW (Shafston). Exit L (W) onto Main St, curving around S briefly onto 15 (Main St.) Exit from Main St. onto River Terrace. Take River Terrace, which turns into Leopard Street. Turn towards the river onto Ellis St. Then jog around left and then right on Lower River Terrace until you get to the main park road adjacent to the river. Follow the road to the right towards the cliffs.
Grading, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
Australia has its own climbing grades ranging from 9-35 (5.6 to 5.14d YDS). There are a good variety of easy to more difficult climbs at Kangaroo Point. First bolts can be high, so a stick clip is helpful. The bolting here is variable and should be considered carefully before leading a climb. Some climbs are run out or bolts are poorly placed and can result in ground fall. Other climbs use the old “carrot” system, where a bolt is in the rock, you carry your own plates and then place the plate over the bolt, and clip your draw into the plate (note that some draws do not work well with these plates - the carabiners need to be large enough to hold the plate into place). Many of the intermediate and higher climbs, 17 and above, have good bolting.
Some of the climbs also end in perma-draws, but not all. Bolts at the top are often off-set, so it is helpful to use an equalizing anchor system (rather than quick draws), especially if you plan to top-rope climbs with multiple people. Glue-in U-bolts are often used, which are difficult to put in and replace, so do not top rope or lower directly from the anchor bolts. Instead use an anchor and after cleaning rappel or, if the anchors are close enough to the top, walk-off.
Guidebooks and Climbing Resources:
- Southeast Queensland Climbing: Selected Crags, by Lee Cujes, Onsight Publishing
- The Crag: Kangaroo Point
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
The rock is rhyolite, which is like a compressed volcanic tuff. This rhyolite is quite different in texture from the rhyolite of Smith Rock, Oregon, which is sharp and, for the most part, has a lot of friction. Here the rock has a lot of slick patina surfaces with some “thank goodness” intermittent areas of friction.
The climbing is primarily face with odd, blocky holds many sloping in unfavorable or less comfortable directions requiring circus-like body positions to keep from falling off. The rock is quite interesting to climb and difficult to predict from below (one climb we went on looked easy from below and it was anything but). The uniqueness and variability of the rock results in adjacent climbs being quite different from one another – this makes this small crag all the more interesting.
Camping
This is an urban crag, so camping is not nearby.
Yeahs
- No approach
- Located in a clean, nice park with picnic tables
- Night-time climbing with lights!
- Ability to top rope many of the climbs
- Nice variety of grades
- Rock is varied and interesting
- Trad and sport
Neahs
- On some climbs, run-out or poorly placed bolts can result in a ground-fall.
- Carrots are still on some climbs.
- The rock has a fair amount of slick surfaces.
Opinion Rating
Worth it!
Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
