The ground rules for climbing location "yeahs" and "neahs"
Summary
Potrero Chico is located in north, central Mexico near the small city of Hidalgo, Mexico, about an hour north of the larger city of Monterrey. Potrero Chico is a beautiful limestone mecca for sport climbing, offering incredible single and multi-pitch climbs in a wide variety of grades. This area is friendly to both the advanced, moderate, and newer climber, with plenty of routes to choose from across the grade spectrum.
Grades, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
Climb grades are can be variable in the lower grades (5.7-5.9 - i.e. sometimes easy, sometimes sandbagged) but the 5.10s are pretty consistent and some say on the "softer" side. Most climbs align well with the current grading systems (as opposed to old school grading). There is a great variety of climb grades, from 5.6 to 5.13+. No one is left out.
Bolts tend to be reasonably spaced and not run out, but they start really high. Most starts are pretty easy to get to a high bolt, but you might consider bringing a stick clip.
WARNING: Some multi-pitch routes have less than ideal, if unsafe, rappels and the guidebooks are not necessarily the best resource for this information (for example, Dope Ninja, can be very problemmatic). Problems with the rappels include rappellig past a rap station and/or having to traverse while rappelling to find/get to the next rap station. ALWAYS TIE KNOTS AT THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE!
There are three guidebooks for the area, two print and one electronic. The print guides can be obtained at the La Posada climbing shop and bookstore (http://www.elpotrerochico.mx/). Several shuttle services provide the "Climb Potrero Chico" guide for free when you book a ride with them to/from the airport.
NOTE: The Rakkup guide new, and, as of this writing, is still being developed/expanded. It is missing some photos of routes, so try pairing it with Mountain Project and one or more of the print guides. Most Rakkup's contain good approach information, but this one is still lacking. (It does have GREAT directions on how to enter the country and get to Potrero via car!)
As for the print guides, it is helpful to have BOTH books. The Whole Enchilada has photos of walls and routes (but is older and out of print, so it can be difficult to find) and the Climb Potrero Chico pamphlet does not have photos but is updated annually. Some of the routes do have engraved plates at the base of the climb with the name of the climb, making route-finding much easier.
Camping and Amenities
Free camping can be found inside of the park itself, but most people opt for one of the multiple group fee-based camping areas located within a 5-10 minute walk from the park.
La Posada has a nice grassy and shaded camping area with a large shared kitchen. It tends to be the go-to climber hang-out, but is also quite a bit more expensive - charging PER PERSON to camp. Homeros is the second most popular place.
Many of these camping areas also have single or multi-room rentals with private or shared baths. Be aware that warm water is a commodity, so showers tend to be cold (or warm showers offered only at a specific time).
Most of the camping areas also offer cooked meals for a small fee (about $3-7).
There are a couple of small grocery stores in the town of Hidalgo located a few miles from the park and camping. You can walk, but it will take a while. Many of the camping areas offer a shuttle into town for a small fee (they also offer shuttles to/from the airport). Sometimes you can hitch a ride from a local, but this is not a guarantee. Camping areas often have a shared kitchen to prepare your own meals. Multi-room houses also have kitchens.
Hidalgo has an ATM in the town square and there is a cool climber-oriented coffee shop called El Buho two blocks away from one of the main grocery stores.
Camping resources can be found at http://potrerochico.org/.
Ever wonder about the house on the hill just inside of the park? That is Ariel's Chalet. They used to have a website but now you can contact them through Facebook. The house is on it's own solar power and spring water. They also provide an airport shuttle service. https://www.facebook.com/ariels.cabana
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
The rock is solid, sharp, frictiony, and highly featured limestone. It can be hard on the fingers after a few consecutive days of climbing. The climbing style is primarily technical, featured sport face climbing, but there are also acrobatic overhanging areas. There are a few trad climbs, but it is probably not worth lugging the gear if you are flying.
Yeahs
Neahs
Opinion Rating
It Rocks!
Photos and beta
- Each location will receive an opinion rating - "It Rocks!", "Worth It," "Meh," or "Trash."
- Each crag has its own personality with unique advantages and challenges, which are highlighted.
- It is tempting to list “beautiful” as a “yeah,” but that is true for a lot of crags. I allude to beauty and scenery in the summary. You can also (sometimes) tell by the photo. If the place is a dump, then that will be listed in the “neahs” and rated as "Meh" or "Trash.
Summary
Potrero Chico is located in north, central Mexico near the small city of Hidalgo, Mexico, about an hour north of the larger city of Monterrey. Potrero Chico is a beautiful limestone mecca for sport climbing, offering incredible single and multi-pitch climbs in a wide variety of grades. This area is friendly to both the advanced, moderate, and newer climber, with plenty of routes to choose from across the grade spectrum.
Grades, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
Climb grades are can be variable in the lower grades (5.7-5.9 - i.e. sometimes easy, sometimes sandbagged) but the 5.10s are pretty consistent and some say on the "softer" side. Most climbs align well with the current grading systems (as opposed to old school grading). There is a great variety of climb grades, from 5.6 to 5.13+. No one is left out.
Bolts tend to be reasonably spaced and not run out, but they start really high. Most starts are pretty easy to get to a high bolt, but you might consider bringing a stick clip.
WARNING: Some multi-pitch routes have less than ideal, if unsafe, rappels and the guidebooks are not necessarily the best resource for this information (for example, Dope Ninja, can be very problemmatic). Problems with the rappels include rappellig past a rap station and/or having to traverse while rappelling to find/get to the next rap station. ALWAYS TIE KNOTS AT THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE!
There are three guidebooks for the area, two print and one electronic. The print guides can be obtained at the La Posada climbing shop and bookstore (http://www.elpotrerochico.mx/). Several shuttle services provide the "Climb Potrero Chico" guide for free when you book a ride with them to/from the airport.
- The Whole Enchilada, by Dane Bass (print)
- Climb Potero Chico/The Rock Climber’s Guide to El Potrero Chico, World Capital of Big Wall Sport Climbing, by Pacho Villa and La Adelita (photo copied print guide)
- El Potrero Chico Rock Climbing Guidebook by Frank Madden (electronic), Rakkup: http://rakkup.com/guidebooks/el-potrero-chico-rock-climbing/
NOTE: The Rakkup guide new, and, as of this writing, is still being developed/expanded. It is missing some photos of routes, so try pairing it with Mountain Project and one or more of the print guides. Most Rakkup's contain good approach information, but this one is still lacking. (It does have GREAT directions on how to enter the country and get to Potrero via car!)
As for the print guides, it is helpful to have BOTH books. The Whole Enchilada has photos of walls and routes (but is older and out of print, so it can be difficult to find) and the Climb Potrero Chico pamphlet does not have photos but is updated annually. Some of the routes do have engraved plates at the base of the climb with the name of the climb, making route-finding much easier.
Camping and Amenities
Free camping can be found inside of the park itself, but most people opt for one of the multiple group fee-based camping areas located within a 5-10 minute walk from the park.
La Posada has a nice grassy and shaded camping area with a large shared kitchen. It tends to be the go-to climber hang-out, but is also quite a bit more expensive - charging PER PERSON to camp. Homeros is the second most popular place.
Many of these camping areas also have single or multi-room rentals with private or shared baths. Be aware that warm water is a commodity, so showers tend to be cold (or warm showers offered only at a specific time).
Most of the camping areas also offer cooked meals for a small fee (about $3-7).
There are a couple of small grocery stores in the town of Hidalgo located a few miles from the park and camping. You can walk, but it will take a while. Many of the camping areas offer a shuttle into town for a small fee (they also offer shuttles to/from the airport). Sometimes you can hitch a ride from a local, but this is not a guarantee. Camping areas often have a shared kitchen to prepare your own meals. Multi-room houses also have kitchens.
Hidalgo has an ATM in the town square and there is a cool climber-oriented coffee shop called El Buho two blocks away from one of the main grocery stores.
Camping resources can be found at http://potrerochico.org/.
Ever wonder about the house on the hill just inside of the park? That is Ariel's Chalet. They used to have a website but now you can contact them through Facebook. The house is on it's own solar power and spring water. They also provide an airport shuttle service. https://www.facebook.com/ariels.cabana
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
The rock is solid, sharp, frictiony, and highly featured limestone. It can be hard on the fingers after a few consecutive days of climbing. The climbing style is primarily technical, featured sport face climbing, but there are also acrobatic overhanging areas. There are a few trad climbs, but it is probably not worth lugging the gear if you are flying.
Yeahs
- World-class climbing with hundreds of well-bolted routes.
- Mostly solid rock (not crumbly) - note that rock fall still occurs with relative frequency here so do wear a helmet.
- Easy access to routes (short approaches).
- Camping, housing, and most amenities are nearby.
- Engraved plates with the name of the climb at the base of each climb.
- A variety of climb grades that are not sandbagged.
- Really long bolted multi-pitch climbs (up to 25+ pitches), from easy to advanced.
- The people are wonderful and super friendly.
Neahs
- Unless you live in north/central Mexico or in Texas, it is an effort to get here. Fly into Monterrey then rent a car or take a shuttle to Hidalgo (about a 1 hour ride). The website PotreroChico.org provides additional travel information.
- Be aware of cacti, snakes, poisonous centipedes, and spiders on or near the routes. But, in general these things are not a concern.
- The rappelling on some of the multi-pitch routes needs to be redone so the rap stations fall in-line with each other. Be prepared for challenging rappels and ALWAYS tie knots at the end of your rope so you can manage the situation if you rappel past a rap station.
- Drug violence has plagued Hidalgo, but things seem to have settled down and (mostly) does not appear to extend to visiting climbers.
Opinion Rating
It Rocks!
Photos and beta
