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Not long ago, the brittle ice crunched as she kicked steps repeatedly up a Karakorum giant that has killed many; K2, the second highest mountain in the world – the savage mountain. Now, back in her homeland many more are being killed by Russian invaders and her love of the mountains has been supplanted by her love of country.
Irina Galay is a Ukrainian chameleon, who has been able to adapt her look, her behaviour, and her climbing, according to any situation. She has found herself changing from her alpine climbing kit into military fatigues. Irina is a climber who has the drive and the ability to achieve. She was the first Ukrainian to summit Mount Everest and followed through with ascents of Ama Dablam and K2. Last year on this peak she endured without assisted oxygen until 8000m. On that same expedition her team was pounded by a 50km-per-hour storm that shredded her team’s tents. Three international climbers died on K2 that season. The thought of death is a constant tap on the brain while climbing in high altitude, a state of place also referred to the death zone. In speaking with Irina, she said, “You always believe that it’s not about you. I was super careful because I understood; every step could become my last.” Irina is a realist and knows firsthand the threat of death or injury who play on the world’s highest peaks. Before climbing K2, her team made an agreement that if one of them was killed, they would continue to ascend. They also agreed that if one was injured another would assist. Which brings us to today, where death stalks her homeland. Irina’s home is in the beleaguered city of Kyiv. Like any climber her apartment is strewn with climbing gear and her walls are adorned with mementos of past expeditions and good times with friends. She left an ice-axe in her kitchen for intruders – just in case. Little did she know an intruder was about to come knocking. |
Irina Galay and team member on K2 in 2021 . (Photo Credit: Irina Galay Collection)
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It was February 22nd, 2022, when Russia invaded Ukraine. This was inevitable, as Ukraine’s aggressive neighbour had been nibbling on its Eastern border regions for years like a rat nibbles cheese. When the Russians’ attacked, Irina was preparing for another season in the Annapurna Range. Things had been looking good.
During the COVID pandemic she had been training in the Carpathian Mountains, a chain of major peaks that span across Eastern Europe - Ukraine, Romania, Slovakia, Poland, Hungary, and the Czech Republic. She was also marketing her vitamin supplements brand and building a profile for a run at politics. She was establishing herself as a woman of merit and her climbing spirit was helping her negotiate being an entrepreneur, a climber, and an everyday woman with a love of music and the fraternity of friends. However, this time of preparation for higher things was abruptly interrupted by the Russian invasion of her homeland.
During the COVID pandemic she had been training in the Carpathian Mountains, a chain of major peaks that span across Eastern Europe - Ukraine, Romania, Slovakia, Poland, Hungary, and the Czech Republic. She was also marketing her vitamin supplements brand and building a profile for a run at politics. She was establishing herself as a woman of merit and her climbing spirit was helping her negotiate being an entrepreneur, a climber, and an everyday woman with a love of music and the fraternity of friends. However, this time of preparation for higher things was abruptly interrupted by the Russian invasion of her homeland.
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The danger zone was no longer above 8000 metres, it was immediate, in her city, and engulfing her and the citizens of Ukraine. Just as a climbing route can be disrupted by objective dangers requiring a climber to make crucial decisions and quickly adapt, Irina has adjusted to the defence of her nation and enlisted in the Ukrainian Territorial Defence. In the height of her climbing career, she has swapped her ropes for a rifle.
Irina explained her present reality, “David, I am patient. I will use what the mountains have taught me and the wisdom of climbers I have partnered with to good effect. I will be wise and smart amongst danger and with my people I am now tasked to protect and care for. I will seek out the best opportunities in spreading our message to the world to stand against tyranny so we can increase the odds of defeating the enemy.” She slowed down as she made the connections with the mountains. “Like climbing a mountain this will involve making many difficult decisions, but those mountains and my mountaineering friends have taught me these skills. I am using them now and not for myself but for my people.” She was now drawing on her climbing experience and the draw was deep. “Climbing is a mirror of life. Hardship, friendships, commitment, and sacrifice are some of the extraordinary experience’s we [climbers] share up there. The tests the mountains give us is how we use these and succeed.” |
Irina Galay is an entrepreneur who created and runs her own vitamin supplement business - which has been put on hold to fight in the war in Ukraine. This is one of her advertisements.
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I was taken at how selfless this woman is. Here she is, sacrificing the prime of her life and her climbing career for the well-being of others and the freedom of her nation. Climbing is a ruthless teacher of truth and a drill sergeant of life lessons; It also equips you for making hard decisions in everyday life. Today, her life is hanging on the edge of hard decisions.
An alpine environment can be a beast in its own right, but so is war. Conflict often sparks when people air different points of view, isolating their beliefs, and seek out points of differences in others. War takes little interest seeking out common ground between the warring peoples or nations. Listening is often the first casualty of it, truth the second. Propagating ill-feelings and hate are often signs of angry people and are the kindling of conflict. Irina first witnessed such sparks turn into a fire from a Russian companion in the Karakorum Range.
“I met a Russian climber (name withheld) at the K2 base camp. I was friends with many Russians at camp. After the expedition, while talking on the phone, this climber and I began discussing the war in eastern Ukraine" [before Russia had invaded greater Ukraine in February, but Crimea was the start. Ukrainian's believe Crimea is Ukranian, Russian believe Crimea is Russian.]
Irina described to him why Ukrainians do not see themselves as Russian, and calmly rejected his assertion that her nation had no right to challenge Mother Russia. The climber then became aggressive and said, “I will spit in your face if I see you again.”
The rage of this man stayed with her. Climbing and politics had crossed a line, the fraternal love of the mountains had been eclipsed by anger and vengeance; crevasses in the climbing community had been exposed.
Irina returned to Ukraine after successfully summitting K2 and inevitably arrived into the turmoil and destruction of the current conflict. Aroused by that conversation on the phone and by the conflict in her country, her views on both have altered.
“People say you should leave politics out of climbing. Being a climber, being here in Ukraine at this moment, seeing what I am seeing, I say to all who will listen, Fuck you guys! Keep killing out of climbing.”
Irina was full of emotion and resolve as she shared how her mountaineering profile has provided a platform to share the plight of her people with the world. What’s more, she is being heard. As I write this, pieces are appearing daily in other international climbing and adventure journals. Saying that, she has received praise, as well as attacks from the climbing community, for being a proud Ukrainian and returning to defend her people. She said to me,
“One Russian guy I have met said this in an aggressive post -- I plan to go to Nepal and plant a Russian flag on Everest.”
At this time and with that tone, he was motivated to plant that flag in spite of Irina and Ukraine. The thought of a Russian flag at this time on a mountain was like a stake being thrust through her and her people’s heart.
This is real, war and climbing, to my dismay do coexist. These conversations are now happening online and in climbing camps the world over. Climbing and conflict have become entwined, knotted in the ropes that once held us together.
Irina has had to step back from climbing. Russian climbers had fostered war talk in the mountains, just as they have driven the cold steel of tanks into Ukraine. Irina cannot escape from her present destiny, nor does she want to. She decided to step back from climbing, by realising her need to stay in Ukraine to help fight off the aggressor with her people.
Between air raid sirens and explosions, Irina has wisely decided to do what she can do to help free her country. In her Territorial Defence role, she spends every day from 7:30 a.m. to late in the evening, ferrying medical supply and life-saving equipment to military and civilians who urgently need them. Her hair is matted, and her cheeks are hollow, she is tired and stressed, but her resolve is inspiring.
An alpine environment can be a beast in its own right, but so is war. Conflict often sparks when people air different points of view, isolating their beliefs, and seek out points of differences in others. War takes little interest seeking out common ground between the warring peoples or nations. Listening is often the first casualty of it, truth the second. Propagating ill-feelings and hate are often signs of angry people and are the kindling of conflict. Irina first witnessed such sparks turn into a fire from a Russian companion in the Karakorum Range.
“I met a Russian climber (name withheld) at the K2 base camp. I was friends with many Russians at camp. After the expedition, while talking on the phone, this climber and I began discussing the war in eastern Ukraine" [before Russia had invaded greater Ukraine in February, but Crimea was the start. Ukrainian's believe Crimea is Ukranian, Russian believe Crimea is Russian.]
Irina described to him why Ukrainians do not see themselves as Russian, and calmly rejected his assertion that her nation had no right to challenge Mother Russia. The climber then became aggressive and said, “I will spit in your face if I see you again.”
The rage of this man stayed with her. Climbing and politics had crossed a line, the fraternal love of the mountains had been eclipsed by anger and vengeance; crevasses in the climbing community had been exposed.
Irina returned to Ukraine after successfully summitting K2 and inevitably arrived into the turmoil and destruction of the current conflict. Aroused by that conversation on the phone and by the conflict in her country, her views on both have altered.
“People say you should leave politics out of climbing. Being a climber, being here in Ukraine at this moment, seeing what I am seeing, I say to all who will listen, Fuck you guys! Keep killing out of climbing.”
Irina was full of emotion and resolve as she shared how her mountaineering profile has provided a platform to share the plight of her people with the world. What’s more, she is being heard. As I write this, pieces are appearing daily in other international climbing and adventure journals. Saying that, she has received praise, as well as attacks from the climbing community, for being a proud Ukrainian and returning to defend her people. She said to me,
“One Russian guy I have met said this in an aggressive post -- I plan to go to Nepal and plant a Russian flag on Everest.”
At this time and with that tone, he was motivated to plant that flag in spite of Irina and Ukraine. The thought of a Russian flag at this time on a mountain was like a stake being thrust through her and her people’s heart.
This is real, war and climbing, to my dismay do coexist. These conversations are now happening online and in climbing camps the world over. Climbing and conflict have become entwined, knotted in the ropes that once held us together.
Irina has had to step back from climbing. Russian climbers had fostered war talk in the mountains, just as they have driven the cold steel of tanks into Ukraine. Irina cannot escape from her present destiny, nor does she want to. She decided to step back from climbing, by realising her need to stay in Ukraine to help fight off the aggressor with her people.
Between air raid sirens and explosions, Irina has wisely decided to do what she can do to help free her country. In her Territorial Defence role, she spends every day from 7:30 a.m. to late in the evening, ferrying medical supply and life-saving equipment to military and civilians who urgently need them. Her hair is matted, and her cheeks are hollow, she is tired and stressed, but her resolve is inspiring.
Irina Galay traded Gortex for camouflage and is now helping defend her country, Ukraine.
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Small pleasures during a break.
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Each day is drawn out with ever present danger, but she is firmly motivated by the needs of her people. Irina sleeps in a civilian home not far from her barracks with her partner, Yuri. Yuri has supported her throughout to get her message out there, the most important being this. No Peace No Climb.
No Peace No Climb is an invitation to all climbers, climbing businesses and expedition companies, to ban Russian climbers via partnering with them or accepting them in professional and amateur expeditions on the major peaks. The idea came when she learned that in this time of war a major global expedition company that spans across Nepal, China, and Pakistan, has been accepting Russian climbers. This has disappointed Irina.
“While Russians are out climbing mountains, Ukrainian climbers are defending [their country and] citizens. It seems unfair and unjust that while our country is torn to pieces by Russian missiles, shellfire, tanks, and soldiers, Russian climbers can go elsewhere and climb.”
It is an ethical choice. Does the climbing community go its own way and do its own thing while members of its community are being attacked by others? Does War matter in the mountains? To Irina, she is not sure if we care. She gave me this example.
“I don’t see many messages from mountaineers or climbing journals on how climbers can stand up and stop the war. They show sympathy with my position but have said little of how they are prepared to add weight and stop the war [in their circles of influence].”
No Peace No Climb is an invitation to all climbers, climbing businesses and expedition companies, to ban Russian climbers via partnering with them or accepting them in professional and amateur expeditions on the major peaks. The idea came when she learned that in this time of war a major global expedition company that spans across Nepal, China, and Pakistan, has been accepting Russian climbers. This has disappointed Irina.
“While Russians are out climbing mountains, Ukrainian climbers are defending [their country and] citizens. It seems unfair and unjust that while our country is torn to pieces by Russian missiles, shellfire, tanks, and soldiers, Russian climbers can go elsewhere and climb.”
It is an ethical choice. Does the climbing community go its own way and do its own thing while members of its community are being attacked by others? Does War matter in the mountains? To Irina, she is not sure if we care. She gave me this example.
“I don’t see many messages from mountaineers or climbing journals on how climbers can stand up and stop the war. They show sympathy with my position but have said little of how they are prepared to add weight and stop the war [in their circles of influence].”
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I did investigate this, and the majority of pieces walk a neutral line when reporting on Irina. One exception is UK Climber who recently posted a complete piece on Irina and provided climbers some avenues to assist. One idea being that UK Climbers volunteer to house climbing refugees. They also highlighted the No Peace No Climb campaign. I encourage you to read Natalie Berry’s piece for further information.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/no_peace_no_climb_-_ukrainians_call_for_russian_mountaineering_ban-14363 There are alternate points of view. I spoke with Vitaliy Musiyenko, a prolific climber and climbing blogger from San Francisco who is a Ukrainian American. He thinks that banning Russians from climbing may be counterproductive. He says, “I don’t disagree with Irina, and I don’t think a Russian flag should be raised over a mountain at this time. However, there are two sides of the coin.” He understands where Irina is coming from but suggests the following, |
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“It is important for Russian Citizens to go abroad where they will be able to learn about the war crimes their government is committing in real time. The strength of humanity is in realising how similar we are, which happens during interaction, especially when climbing throughout the World. The more Russians have the chance to see the truth, the faster they can spread the word and hopefully lead more action such as the potential overthrow of their tyrannical leader.”
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So how do we as a climbing community support Irina and her people?
We don’t make missiles, we certainly don’t fire or launch them, we are just climbers, eh? She gave some ideas which is the basis of her No Peace No Climb initiative (Instagram; Facebook). “I will share with you some ideas. Russian Passport holders that apply to sovereign nations who require a Peak Registration should be declined until peace is achieved in Ukraine. Russian climbers who apply to climb a peak with a Professional Expedition should not be accepted, Climbers who climb independently with a Russian partner should refrain until peace in Ukraine is achieved. For this reason, their nation is in an aggressive war with Ukraine which internationally is acknowledged as unacceptable. Hence Russian climbers in a team is unacceptable until Russia leaves Ukraine and peace is restored”. There is the question that Irina’s campaign is isolating a part of our community in an activity that ironically is about the freedom of the hills. Her point is stark. When one nation in our global community flips the freedom of another sovereign nation on its head, it jeopardises freedom for all of us. This makes the freedom we have today seem compromised and made hollow. War and climbing are not new. Battles were fought in the Italian Alps in the First World War, In Papua New Guinea’s Owen Stanley Ranges in the Second World War, Tibet was totally annexed by China in 1951, and today India, Pakistan and China precariously clash on their Himalayan borders. Our task today, with this war in Ukraine, is to keep war out of climbing and encourage peace between warring climbers and the nations from which they come from. |
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I approached several global climbing brands to find if they have followed the lead of the United Nations and NATO in sanctioning Russia by not providing climbing and/or adventure equipment to them at this time. For many I received no reply. But not all. La Sportiva replied as follows.
“La Sportiva like all EU Companies, will be abiding by the EU trade embargos in place not only because we have to, but because we are and always have been, a social company founded on social responsibility.”
They also added, “We are shocked and saddened by the suffering of the Ukrainian people. We have an ongoing fundraiser for Ukrainian victims that will be doubled by our company and donated through the Red Cross. We are exploring ways to send warm clothing through Ukrainian organisations to assist refugees. We have suspended our Russian Operations.”
La Sportiva is not alone, Adventure Entertainment is an Australian Adventure media company that distributes climbing material to audiences globally. Their CEO shared with me that they are not trading with Russia at this time.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) also draw a line of chalk on the wall. On the 2nd of March they released a statement to suspend all scheduled competitions to be held in Russia and for Russian athletes and officials to be suspended from IFSC meetings and competitions.
Climbing companies which supply recreational and industry rope access equipment should follow the lead provided by La Sportiva, Adventure Entertainment, and the IFSC. We as climbers can be socially responsible by questioning our suppliers and asking them to do what La Sportiva and Adventure Entertainment are doing. Climbing brands that stand in solidarity with the people of Ukraine should be rewarded by our customer support; Those that abrogate this responsibility should not.
Many countries have now placed sanctions on trade and exchange with Russia, so it behoves our climbing industry and community in whatever country not to deal with Russia until it ceases its attempted, forceful occupation of the Ukraine. This includes Climbing Expedition Companies who invariably have international patronage. When making enquiries for your next climb or trek enquire what is their position on the No Peace No Climb concept before investing your hard-earned cash. If you are at the crag, discuss ways with your crew how you can support our Ukrainian climbing fellows.
“La Sportiva like all EU Companies, will be abiding by the EU trade embargos in place not only because we have to, but because we are and always have been, a social company founded on social responsibility.”
They also added, “We are shocked and saddened by the suffering of the Ukrainian people. We have an ongoing fundraiser for Ukrainian victims that will be doubled by our company and donated through the Red Cross. We are exploring ways to send warm clothing through Ukrainian organisations to assist refugees. We have suspended our Russian Operations.”
La Sportiva is not alone, Adventure Entertainment is an Australian Adventure media company that distributes climbing material to audiences globally. Their CEO shared with me that they are not trading with Russia at this time.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) also draw a line of chalk on the wall. On the 2nd of March they released a statement to suspend all scheduled competitions to be held in Russia and for Russian athletes and officials to be suspended from IFSC meetings and competitions.
Climbing companies which supply recreational and industry rope access equipment should follow the lead provided by La Sportiva, Adventure Entertainment, and the IFSC. We as climbers can be socially responsible by questioning our suppliers and asking them to do what La Sportiva and Adventure Entertainment are doing. Climbing brands that stand in solidarity with the people of Ukraine should be rewarded by our customer support; Those that abrogate this responsibility should not.
Many countries have now placed sanctions on trade and exchange with Russia, so it behoves our climbing industry and community in whatever country not to deal with Russia until it ceases its attempted, forceful occupation of the Ukraine. This includes Climbing Expedition Companies who invariably have international patronage. When making enquiries for your next climb or trek enquire what is their position on the No Peace No Climb concept before investing your hard-earned cash. If you are at the crag, discuss ways with your crew how you can support our Ukrainian climbing fellows.
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Common Climber acknowledges that many of our Russian friends do not sit well with this conflict and are in danger if they speak out. An article in Gripped Magazine published on the 22nd of March online, provides readers a heartfelt perspective of the shame, pain, and psychological burden the war is having on Russians who have a home in Canada.
https://gripped.com/profiles/canada-based-russian-climbers-emotional-plea-for-ukraine-support/ War is complicated but Russia is the aggressor in this war. Irina, together with Ukrainian climbers and all its people, are suffering deeply. The courageous and honourable path climbers should tread is to do all they can to protest this war in solidarity with climbers in Ukraine, who cannot climb at home or internationally. Feeling is one thing, doing is better. We empathise with all climbers who have been directly affected by this war. This magazine stands with Ukraine and supports the No Peace No Climb Initiative which aligns with NATO and United Nations resolutions of barring Russian participation in global trade and participation until an equitable peace is restored. |
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We also acknowledge other means to keep the Russian climbing community informed, as expressed by Vitaliy Musiyenko. We rally all of our readers, climbing businesses, and climbers as an international community, to take action in a way that best represents your passion, connections, and abilities. Not complaining about food supply, food costs, fiscal unease, and oil prices, is the smallest of sacrifices we can make. But there are certainly more.
I would like to share a story of when I experienced war. In 1992 I was in Bosnia, being driven through a village, at the conclusion of its bitter conflict with Serbia. The village had the European look - stone buildings and red tiled roofs, tended gardens and chickens seeking food by the roadside - yet it was eerily empty. I noticed there was a hole in each roof. I asked the driver, “Where are the people and what are those holes about?” He looked back at me. “Davida. The enemy shelled this village with incendiary bombs. They fall through the ceiling and destroy everything and everyone inside. Satellites only see an intact village, not the destruction the bombs have wrought inside.”
I would like to share a story of when I experienced war. In 1992 I was in Bosnia, being driven through a village, at the conclusion of its bitter conflict with Serbia. The village had the European look - stone buildings and red tiled roofs, tended gardens and chickens seeking food by the roadside - yet it was eerily empty. I noticed there was a hole in each roof. I asked the driver, “Where are the people and what are those holes about?” He looked back at me. “Davida. The enemy shelled this village with incendiary bombs. They fall through the ceiling and destroy everything and everyone inside. Satellites only see an intact village, not the destruction the bombs have wrought inside.”
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The happenings in Ukraine remind me of that moment and of war’s mercurial nature. We need people like Irina to tell their stories so that we know what is happening inside of her country. She is just like us; she listens to music, has enjoyed the freedom of the hills and the love of friendships that sharing a rope brings. That she is not in the mountains with us at present does not mean she is not amongst us in spirit.
While Irina and her nation fight on in defence of their freedom, I will share her words, “Thanks for your support. At present we are in a secure zone, but many others are really suffering, and many are killed each day. It’s a real terrorizing war with no rules, which is very sad. Some people don’t get that. The entire world should say: "Do not be silent! Stop Putin! Stop the war! Hundreds of civilians die every day!" Her final words with me were these, “Let there be peace." NO PEACE NO CLIMB
INSTAGRAM: @nopeacenoclimb https://www.instagram.com/nopeacenoclimb FACEBOOK POST: https://www.facebook.com/irina.galay.7/posts/10216388175055726 |
Art by Karmelo Onate
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Q & A with Irina Galay
- What was your first sport? I began mountain skiing when I was six years old.
- What was your first climb? It was Mt. Kazbek in Georgia. In 2013 I lost a bet with a friend and had to climb it without any preparation.
- How about your hardest climb? Ushba. I almost gave up due to bad weather. (Ed Note: Ushbais known as the "Matterhorn of the Caucasas." It is a 4690m (15,387 ft) sheer-rock double peak in the Caucasus Mountains in Georgia.
- Favourite movie? Mr. and Mrs. Smith
- Favourite climber? Alex Honnold
- Favourite food? Ukranian syrniky (Ed Note: cheese pancakes, often topped with fruit or powdered sugar)
- Greatest dream? Peace in Ukraine