I have been carrying one on my rack for several years now and when it slots into a perfect crack it is a thing of beauty."
- The Curator, Vertical Archaeology
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It came as a surprise to me when my good friend, Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum in Corsica recently informed me that John Brailsford, the inventor, and maker of the Acorn and MOAC chockstone, had passed away earlier this year (2022). While the Acorn was largely unknown in Australia, this could not be said of the MOAC.
And why is this important? When I first started leading in the mid 1960’s my gear consisted of 120 feet of manilla rope with a bowline tie-in, 2 or 3 manilla slings with steel carabiners, and a pair of AC volleys (sandshoes). The gear became a little less primitive with the introduction of drilled-out nuts and ballrace inners of various sizes, laced onto slings which eventually were made of laid nylon. These largely make-shift substitutes were then augmented by the humble "Spud," a British nut that also had its limitations. Modernism arrived in 1967 when Ewbank introduced his "Crackers" which were soon followed by British gear made by Peck, Clog, and Troll. But a little before their introduction, another British nut had made its appearance "Downunder." Shaped more like a modern wedge, this newcomer seated more easily and securely than any of the range of existing nuts of the day. The newcomer was the magnificent, marvellous, incomparable, superlative, consummate, brilliant, remarkable, peerless, matchless, flawless, stellar and yes even immaculate, MOAC Chockstone. |
John Brailsford in 2000 near the village of Bocognano, Corsica.
(Photo Credit: Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)
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The MOAC
The Immaculate MOAC Chockstone.
Original 1st generation belonged to West Cumbrian climber, Peter Moffat.
(Photo Credit: Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)
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Nuts and Stoppers of the DayABOVE: Examples of nuts and stoppers used in the 1960s. (Click on the photo to enlarge and see caption. All photos credited to Stephane Pennequin - Nuts Museum except where otherwise noted)
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In 1961, a blacksmith from Sheffield (UK), John Brailsford, then a teacher of engineering technology, created the first purpose designed nut, the Acorn. He turned three sizes (1 inch, ¾ inch and 5/8 inch) on a lathe from extruded aluminium alloy.
However, as most of the difficult cracks of the time were climbed using hand-jam and layback techniques, a wider nut was needed. John Brailsford recognised that if he increased the diameter of the rope over the top of a nut, he would reduce the risk of cutting the rope sling at this critical point of contact as well as providing the larger size chock required.
A star was born - the MOAC chockstone!
However, as most of the difficult cracks of the time were climbed using hand-jam and layback techniques, a wider nut was needed. John Brailsford recognised that if he increased the diameter of the rope over the top of a nut, he would reduce the risk of cutting the rope sling at this critical point of contact as well as providing the larger size chock required.
A star was born - the MOAC chockstone!
Climbers salivated over its seductively rounded corners, the subtle sheen of its surfaces and the amazing wedge shape of its body. They would rather lose their boyfriend/girlfriend than to part with this amazing piece of aluminium. It was the nut for every occasion. Unlike the earlier Spud this little number tapered two ways with twin 9mm holes along its length for stringing. The design of the MOAC also gave provision for it to be bisected so that you could procure two nuts for the price of one. I must admit that I never heard of this barbarous act of sacrilege being performed as most climbers preferred theirs to be the whole deal. You were a nobody if you didn’t have an intact one hanging off your seatbelt waistband”. |
MOAC and Acorn in John's Brailsford’s hand.
(Photo Credit: Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)
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Ellis Brigham, owner of a chain of outdoor shops in UK sponsored the die cast first production run of the new design; he also owned a climbing equipment import company, MOuntain ACtivities. The first two letters of each word were chosen to name this new nut - the MOAC. It was an instant hit, and many British, American, and Australian climbers still carry them for sentimental reasons.
Joe Brown, Don Roscoe (of the Rock & Ice Club), as well as John Brailsford and his regular partner, Doug Cook, used them and found they worked with a level of safety not enjoyed before.
Joe Brown, Don Roscoe (of the Rock & Ice Club), as well as John Brailsford and his regular partner, Doug Cook, used them and found they worked with a level of safety not enjoyed before.
In 1962, the first batch of MOACs were cast in Manchester and the guide, Peter Gentil, hand-finished them. Safely slung with 9 mm rope, other sizes could be obtained by filing them down to reduce their thickness or even halving them to obtain two different sized nuts.
Many older climbers probably owe John Brailsford and his mighty nut a "vote of thanks" for many reasons, but for many, myself included, it was a veritable life saver.
And so, a belated message of thanks to you John, from a very grateful climber.
May you rest in peace.
Vale John Brailsford
17 July 1934 – 1 April 2022
Many older climbers probably owe John Brailsford and his mighty nut a "vote of thanks" for many reasons, but for many, myself included, it was a veritable life saver.
And so, a belated message of thanks to you John, from a very grateful climber.
May you rest in peace.
Vale John Brailsford
17 July 1934 – 1 April 2022
My thanks to my good friend Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum, Corsica for the use of his images and the section relating to John Brailsford’s history.