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  • Climbing Events 2022

Amputations: Leg Prosthesis for Climbing


​By Szu-Ping Lee, PT, PhD
This article is written by Dr. Szu-Ping Lee, a climber and professor in the Department of Physical Therapy at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. His research focuses on the "biomechanical and neuromuscular control aspects of human movement. Specific research areas include: amputee rehabilitation, pathomechanics of disabilities, motor learning in rehabilitation, and sports science."

Amputation and limb loss is more common than people think. Currently in the U.S., it is estimated that more than 2.2 million of people live with limb loss (about 1 in 150) (Ref.1). This number will increase in the next 30 years to more than 3.6 million by 2050.

Nowadays, it is fairly common to see climbers with limb loss. I personally have met 2 climbers in Red Rock Canyon (on Black Track 5.9 and the ultra classic Crimson Chrysalis 5.8+). There are also a few famous climbers with limb loss, and good documentary films of their adventures. This article is to provide a basic introduction to prosthesis so you be in the know the next time you meet one of those badasses in the wild.

What is a prosthesis?

A prosthesis or artificial limb, is a device to replace the lost limb segment for someone with limb loss or born with limb difference. Depending on what is lost, a prosthesis varies in length and the number of joints. For example, someone who lost the leg below the knee will need to replace his calf, ankle, and foot; someone with an above-the-knee amputation will also need to have a knee joint. Certified prosthetists help to make these devices.
​
How does the prosthesis connect to the person?

This is a common question when people see a climber with a prosthesis: “How does the leg stay on?”, “What if the leg falls off?” A key design of any prosthesis is called the “suspension.” It keeps the prosthesis connected to the remaining leg even when the leg is not weighted and dangling in the air. (Note: the remaining leg is sometimes called “stump” but the correct name is “residual limb”.)

​There are several different types of suspension design. Some designs use a strong suction and vacuum pump. Others wear a tight sock on their residual limb that has a pin at the end. The pin is then inserted into the prosthesis (Figure 1).
Picture
​Figure 1: Pin/lock suspension

Does it hurt to wear a prosthesis when walking or climbing?
​

Our feet are tough, with thick skin and fat pads. They are designed to take a beating. The rest of the leg is not as tough and can easily bruise or blister when subjected to pressure and friction, so prosthesis users do need to protect their residual limb. Just about every amputee wears a sock on their residual limb, and the inside of the sock is usually lined with silicone gel to make it really soft and comfortable. The gel also helps to maintain a firm and non-sliding contact so the wearer does not get blisters. The leg is then pushed into a bucket made of tough plastic (called socket) so it is fairly stable (Figure 2). Just like a pair of ill-fitted shoes, if the shape of the socket is off, it can feel very uncomfortable. Therefore, the socket is custom-made for each person.
Picture
​Figure 2: A prosthesis user’s leg with the sock (prosthetic liner) in the socket.
 
What about the climbing shoe/feet that is in contact with the rock?
​

It is possible for a prosthesis user to wear a foot attachment (Figure 3), then she can wear any climbing shoe like the rest of us. 
Picture
Figure 3: Basic prosthetic foot attachment

But why not take advantage of the fact that your foot is now interchangeable? Why not wear something smaller so you can easily stand on tiny edges? The famous inventor/double amputee climber Hugh Herr made the “hatchet foot” to stand in really thin crack.

A crampon can be attached instead of a foot for ice climbing.

There are several designer-made prostheses on the market, such as the Kai Lin leg used by Arcteryx athlete Craig DeMartino (Figure 4, the Kai Lin leg). Evolv also worked with a prosthetic company to come up with an affordable foot and climbing shoe (Figure 5, the El Dorado foot). Because the prosthetic foot is simple in design and can be easily swapped, they are not that expensive (in the range of a few hundred dollars).

​Handy amputee climbers often make their own foot. The bottom line is that there is no standard design on what is the best climbing prosthesis, just like climbing shoes! Most amputees also don’t mind talking about their prosthesis just like us non-amputees talking about shoes and gear.
Picture
Figure 4: The Kai Lin leg (https://www.behance.net/gallery/16820519/KLIPPA-Prosthetic-Leg-for-Rock-Climbers)
Picture
Figure 5: Evolv and TRS Prosthetics’s El Dorado foot (https://www.trsprosthetics.com/product/climbing/)
Picture
Figure 6: ADK Rock Climbing Foot by Mountain Orthotic & Prosthetic Services (http://www.mountainoandp.com/adkfoot/).
Picture
ADK Rock Climbing Foot by Mountain Orthotic & Prosthetic Services (http://www.mountainoandp.com/adkfoot/).
 
What are the biggest challenges of climbing with a leg prosthesis?
​

I am not an amputee myself but I do work with many amputees specifically rehabilitation after amputation - so I am making an educated guess here. The first challenge is that the ankle and toes cannot move. If you put weight on a prosthesis, the ankle/foot may flex a bit, but it is not possible to point your toes in different directions. So the footwork will be limited in this aspect. It is also difficult for an amputee climber to feel the rock. We rely heavily on the sensation of the feet to guide foot placements in climbing, and footwork is tricky when that sensory information is not available. So, amputee climbers may need to rely on their vision more.

Climbing is more challenging for those who have higher levels of amputation such as above-the-knee or higher. Because the current technology is not yet at the Ironman exoskeleton level (which moves to the will of the user.) Anyone with above-the-knee or higher level amputation would have lost control of 2 important joints (knee and ankle). Certain moves like balancing only on the prosthetic leg, high step or drop knee that requires delicate control of the knee will be very tough for someone wearing a prosthesis with an artificial knee.

​Imagine climbing while wearing a knee brace that keep the knee unbendable! That is why when climbing steep boulder problems where the leg is not as important, some amputee climbers take their prosthesis off.

To see a good example, you can watch this video

Although there are numerous challenges and adjustments to living and climbing after an amputation, ultimately, climbing with a prosthesis (or an amputation without a prosthesis) is harder, but certainly not impossible. Amputees have climbed 5.13, V10, El Capitan in a day, and the Everest! 


​Reference
1. Ziegler-Graham K, MacKenzie EJ, Ephraim PL, Travison TG, Brookmeyer R. Estimating the prevalence of limb loss in the United States: 2005 to 2050. Archives of physical medicine and rehabilitation. 2008;89(3):422-429.

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      • FRANCE - Verdon in Winter
      • GREECE - Meteora
      • ITALY - Dolomites
      • MEXICO - La Huasteca
      • SPAIN - Artist - Karmelo Onate
      • UTAH - Maple Canyon: This One Makes You Taller
    • Firsts... and Last >
      • A Tale of Oso Madre
      • Clayton Herrmann - Featured Photographer
      • Rysavy Ridge >
        • The Migrant Pom on Rysavy Ridge
        • Throng of Roland
        • Fast Forward - Rysavy Ridge Revisited
      • The Three Sisters
    • Honoring Diversity >
      • ARTIST: Shawn Lee
      • A Shift on Moonlight Buttress
      • Claiming a Space on the Mountain
      • Colorblind
      • Feature Photographer: Bryan Sillorequez
      • Is Diversity in America Diverse?
      • MOVIE: People of Climbing:
      • Profile - Favia Dubyk
      • The Lineage
    • Joshua Tree >
      • Bouldering: JTree Made Me Do It
      • Improv at JTree: Bad Bolts
      • JTree: Bolting Pressure Cooker
      • Joshua Tree: Heinous Approaches
    • Overcoming Adversity >
      • Acopa Outdoors
      • Anoushe Husain
      • Expanding the Circle
      • Failure is Part of the Price: Rand Abbott Attempts the First Adaptive Lead Ascent of The Nose
      • Overcoming a Brain Tumor: WeighMyRack Founder Interview: Alison Dennis
      • Rising
      • The Mountain Path Book Review
    • Overcoming Boundaries >
      • Photographer - Brook Anderson
      • Profile - Louise Shepherd
      • Profile - Megan Banker
      • Profile - Shawn Axelrod
      • Rock Type 1
      • The Tape Job
    • Women's Edition >
      • Editorial - Women's Edition
      • Climbing is My Art
      • Mt. Logan Solo
      • Photographer - Michelle Ranee Johnson
      • Profile - Caitlin Schokker
  • Writing
    • All Writings (List)
    • Topics >
      • Adaptive Climbing >
        • Adaptive Climbing Edition
        • El Capitan: Enock Glidden
        • Failure is Part of the Price: Rand Abbott Attempts the First Adaptive Lead Ascent of The Nose
        • Quinn Brett Interview
        • My Journey to Adaptive Rock Climbing
        • Planning for Mt. Rainier: Adaptive Climbing
        • Resources - Adaptive Climbing
      • Alpine & Ice >
        • A Chamonix Initiation
        • California Still Has Untouched Climbing Wilderness
        • Ice Solo
        • Mt. Ogden Spanking
        • Mt. Whitney Whipping
        • My Common Alpine Epic
        • Vertical Ice Climbing in Ontario, Canada, eh?
      • CC Profile >
        • Climberisms by Dylan Taylor
        • Profile - Shawn Axelrod
        • Profile - Megan Banker
        • Profile: Wendy Bruere - More Than It Hurts
        • Profile - Favia Dubyk
        • Profile - Debbie Fowler
        • Profile - Lindsey Hamm
        • Profile - Sabine Pratt Hunziker
        • PROFILE - Marisa Michael - Nutrition for Climbers
        • Profile - Caitlin Schokker
        • Profile - Louise Shepherd
      • CoVID and Climbing >
        • COVID Climbing Memes
        • CoVID-19 Remakes Our Lives
        • Dear Memory
        • From Couch to Lifting Couches
        • How to Climb and Avoid the Corona Virus
        • Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining
        • The 5.10 Commandments
        • Trying to Send this Route
      • Equipment (writings) >
        • Aliens!
        • A Rack Retrospective
        • Cam Ranges (+ Big Bros)
        • Carabiner Strength Ratings
        • Climbing Shoes Fit
        • Guide Book Follies
        • Rope Buying 101
        • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
        • The One Item to Stockpile
        • Which Way Should I Carry My Trad Rack?
        • Why GriGris Suck
        • 8 Reasons I Carry a Full Rack on Every Trad Climb
      • Facebook Feature >
        • FF: Big Walls
        • FF: Butt Shots
        • FF: Exploring Our World
        • FF: Overcoming Boundaries
        • FF: Trees & Climbing
        • FF: Welcome New Climbers
      • Gift Ideas >
        • Climbing Goods
        • Climbing Stocking Stuffers 2021
        • Rock Stack Card Game
        • Safety Gifts 2021
      • Grades, Styles, & Types >
        • Absolutely Hypothetical: Introducing the Graham Scale
        • Bouldering-Falling
        • Bouldering Grade Advancements
        • Grading Climbs at the Gym
        • It's a F-ing Chimney
        • Onsight vs Flash vs Etc...
        • Top 10: Increase the Climbing Grade When...
        • Trad Climbing is for Chicken Sh*#s
        • WTF 5.7?
        • 18 Climber Types: Which Are You?
      • Kids >
        • Family Stages
        • The Guidebook
      • Legends >
        • A - A Tribute to Bryden Allen
        • B - Joe Brown
        • G - Brad Gobright
        • G - Todd Gordon
        • H - Hugh Herr
        • H - Thomas Huber - In Another World - A Personal Climbing Journey
        • J - Saxon Johns
        • M - Tim Macartney-Snape: ​A Legend from Sea to Summit
        • M - John Middendorf
        • R - Early to Rock: David Roots
      • Mental-Physical >
        • Climbing Training Series >
          • Climbing Warm-Up: Shoulders & Fingers
          • Improving Hip Mobility
          • Rock Climber Mobility
          • Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining
        • Climbing Through Life
        • A Climb Worth Fighting For
        • Achilles
        • Encouraging Words - At Any Age
        • Everyone Around Me Is Better Than I Am
        • Falling Far Enough
        • Fear, Pride, and Exploration
        • How Auto-Immune Disease Affected My Climbing
        • Mastering Joy on Easy Street
        • Mind, Body, and Soul
        • My Demon Has a Name
        • New Year's Resolutions
        • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws
        • Push and Pull
        • Sorcerer and the Kidney Stone
        • Take Risks - You'll Remember Them Later
        • The Art of Climbing Without Rock
        • The Devil's Game
        • The Eye
        • The Taste of Climbing
        • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8
      • Other/Misc >
        • A Leap into the Blue Back in the Day
        • Animal Acts Part 1: Things with Wings
        • Animal Acts 2: Things That Slither, Crawl, and Walk
        • Assault on Schurman Rock
        • Christo's Little Bay Rhapsody
        • Climbing, Community, and the U.S. Presidential Election
        • Climbing Drinking Games
        • Climbing Gyms: The Gateway Drug
        • Climbing Hands
        • Climbing in the Bare Essentials
        • Climbing Resolutions
        • Dirtbag Trucker
        • Demented Dirtbag
        • Don't Take Granite for Granite
        • Dorothy, We Aren't on Havana Anymore
        • Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing
        • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb
        • Snakes and Ladders
        • Starting Over
        • Summit Fever
        • Sydney: Growing Up
        • The Adventure of A Lifetime - So Far
        • The Bane of Northwest Climbing
        • The Hangglider Incident
        • The Pink Tricam
        • Things of Stone and Wood
        • We Were Just Boys
        • Zac the Interloper
      • Places & Climbs >
        • Climbs >
          • Consolation Prize
          • Echo Crack and Cracked Egos
          • Email From Italy
          • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited
          • From Yorkshire to Eternity
          • I Like Fake Cracks (And I Cannot Lie)
          • Ozymandias Direct - Fifty Years of Fun and Games
          • The Fourth Bolt of Texas Radio
          • Thumbing The Nose at Mr. CF Jingus
          • Tiptoeing Through Some Bungles
          • Tombstone Territory
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
        • Location Reviews
        • My Home Crag >
          • Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky
          • Copen Hill Climbing Wall
          • Drytooling in the Rain - Wayne's World, WA
          • My Home Crag: Nowra, NSW, Australia
          • New River Gorge, West Virgina
          • The Kenyan Climber
        • Travel Stories >
          • Blue Mountains - Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys
          • Buenos Aires, Argentina Crag
          • Colorado - Calling Pat Ament
          • Coolum Cave - Sendfest 8
          • Ecuador - A Nation of Four Worlds
          • Egypt: The Sinai Sampler
          • El Potrero Chico - Riding the Dirty Dog
          • Yosemite: Growing Up
          • Lover's Leap - Zone of Craptitude
          • Moonarie
          • Rio de Janeiro - Classic Climbs Sampler
          • Taghia, Morocco - Hardly Failing
          • Tasmania - Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’
          • Thailand - Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
          • Vedauwoo, WY
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
          • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing
        • 2020 U.S. Rock Climbing Festivals
      • Poetry/Prose >
        • Anti-Social Climbers
        • Sojourn at Dyuritte
        • Finding Poetry
        • Ice is Nice
        • The Space Between
      • Safety and Skills >
        • Bolting and Ground-Fall Potential
        • Euro-Death Knot is NOT
        • Multi-Pitch Tips: Two ATCs
        • Sketchy Anchor Bolts
        • Sliding-X Anchor
        • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip
        • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices
      • Science Fiction >
        • Red Curtain: Prologue & Chapter 1 Excerpt
      • Social, Social Media, & Social Issues >
        • Chossy Trio Renegades
        • Climbing into the Fold
        • Diversity in Climbing is Not a Bandwagon
        • Don't Burn Out
        • From Gortex to Camouflage: The story of climber, Irina Galay and climbing’s responses to the war in Ukraine
        • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs"
        • I Am a Woman: Brie Chartier Shares Her Transition Journey
        • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
        • My Husband Climbs Stronger than Me
        • Navajo Rising
        • Social Network Rescue
        • The First Climbing Gym Union?
  • Marketplace
    • Acopa Outdoors
    • Butora
    • Climbing Addicts Colored Chalk
    • Climb-On Maps
    • Dynamite Starfish
    • FIXEhardware
    • Furnace Industries
    • Grimpi
    • Heroclip
    • Lacaida Ropes
    • Mountain Drifter
    • MoveWell with McGee
    • Mystery Ranch
    • Neilico
    • NW Alpine
    • Rockytalkies
    • Tension Climbing
    • Tera Kaia
  • Reviews
    • Books >
      • Advanced Rock Climbing Book Review
      • Adventures at the Edge of the World
      • Climbing Glass Book Review
      • Climbing Rock: Vertical Explorations Across North America
      • Hangdog Days Book Review
      • HOOKING UP: The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual
      • Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • Red Curtain - Book Review
      • Sydney Climbing - Book Review
      • The Mountain Path Book Review
      • The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story - Book Review
      • Uncoiling the Ropes
      • Yosemite Bigwalls: The Ultimate Guide Review
    • Equipment/Gear Reviews >
      • Belay Device Review >
        • Edelrid Mega Jul
      • Harnesses >
        • ArcTeryx-FL-365
        • Misty Mountain Cadillac
      • Packs and Bags >
        • Sukoa Chalk Bag Review
        • Trango Crag Pack
      • Personal Anchor Systems >
        • Camp-Daisy-Twist
        • Petzl-Dual-Adjust
      • Other >
        • D4 Delta2P Portaledge
        • Skyhook Stick Clip Review
    • Location Reviews >
      • Australia >
        • Queensland, Australia >
          • Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
          • Kangaroo Point Review
        • New South Wales Australia >
          • Blue Mountains >
            • Blue Mountains Photos and Beta
            • Blue Mountains Review
          • Nowra >
            • Nowra Review >
              • Nowra Photos and Beta
      • Mexico >
        • Potrero Chico Photos and Beta
        • Potrero Chico Review
      • United States >
        • Climbing Area Check List - U.S. >
          • Climbing Area Check List Part 1: Alabama to California
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 2: Colorado to Michigan
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 3: Minnesota to New Mexico
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 4: New York to Wyoming
        • Arizona >
          • Queen Creek Canyon
        • California >
          • Joshua Tree >
            • Joshua Tree Tips
          • Mount Whitney >
            • Mount Whitney Photos and Beta
        • Idaho >
          • City of Rocks >
            • City of Rocks Photos and Beta
            • City of Rocks Review
        • Oregon >
          • Smith Rock >
            • Smith Rock - Photos and Beta
            • Smith Rock Review
          • Spring Mountain >
            • Spring Mountain Review
            • Spring Mountain - Photos and Beta
          • Trout Creek >
            • Trout Creek Photos and Beta
            • Trout Creek Review
        • Nevada >
          • Gun Club
          • Keyhole Canyon
          • Mt. Charleston, Nevada
          • Red Rock Canyon >
            • Red Rock Canyon Review - Yeahs and Neahs
            • Red Rocks Photos and Beta
        • New Hampshire >
          • North Conway, NH
          • Rumney, NH
        • New York >
          • Gunks Review
        • Utah >
          • Echo Canyon
          • Ferguson Canyon >
            • Ferguson Canyon Photos and Beta
            • Ferguson Canyon Review
          • Ibex >
            • Ibex Photos and Beta
            • Ibex Review
          • Maple Canyon >
            • Maple Canyon, Utah Photos and Beta
            • Maple Canyon Review
          • Moab >
            • Moab - Main - Photos and Beta
            • Moab -Main - Review
          • St. George >
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall- Photos and Beta
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall - Review
        • West Virginia >
          • Seneca Rocks
        • Wyoming >
          • Ten Sleep
  • Photographers & Artists
    • A- Brook Anderson
    • B - Florian Beyer
    • B - Michael Blowers
    • B - Phillip Booth
    • B - Guillaume Borga
    • B - Michaël Bortoluzzi
    • C - Karen Chan
    • C - Matt Cunningham
    • D - Daga Dygas
    • F - Eric Fallecker
    • G - Katherine González
    • G - Max Gordon
    • H - Clayton Herrmann
    • J - Michelle Ranee Johnson
    • K - Jethro Kiernan
    • K - Christine Kuebler
    • L - Shawn Lee Illustrator
    • L - Jim Lin
    • M - Alex Messenger
    • N - Tiffany Nardico
    • O - Charlie OlGrady-Kessner
    • O - Karmelo Onate
    • O - Camila Ospina
    • P - Diego Perez
    • S - Bryan Sillorequez
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    • V - Laura Vallo
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    • Z - Eson Zhao
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