Cover Photo By Featured Photographer LieseLotte P
Welcome to the September/October 2022 edition of Common Climber!
Featured Photographer: LieseLotte PCommon Climber interviews climber and photographer LieseLotte P who was born and raised in Belgium, but has been traveling Europe in her van climbing and taking photos. LieseLotte is an artist and performer. You can see that creativity in her work. She has composed a series of thematic climbing photo exhibits, which are shared as part of this interview. One of the exhibits explores the female body and feminism.
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Editorial - Stefani Dawn
Welcome to the September/October 2022 edition of Common Climber! I don't always write an editorial for an edition because sometimes I run out of time, other times I don't feel I have much to say.
It seems time is almost always a challenge: I work a demanding full-time job (so does our Assistant Editor Dave Barnes); I run a rock-climbing-related business (Climb-On Maps); I'm on the Board for the Southern Nevada Climber's Coalition; And, I serve in this all-volunteer effort for Common Climber. And, of course, there is the typical "life stuff" along with the unquestionable need to climb - for my heart, spirit, and sanity.
But, I know my busy life and passion for climbing are not any different than what our readers also encounter every day. That is exactly why Common Climber's motto is "proudly crushing whatever we can when we can." We are in this busy world together while still celebrating the pure passion for climbing.
It seems time is almost always a challenge: I work a demanding full-time job (so does our Assistant Editor Dave Barnes); I run a rock-climbing-related business (Climb-On Maps); I'm on the Board for the Southern Nevada Climber's Coalition; And, I serve in this all-volunteer effort for Common Climber. And, of course, there is the typical "life stuff" along with the unquestionable need to climb - for my heart, spirit, and sanity.
But, I know my busy life and passion for climbing are not any different than what our readers also encounter every day. That is exactly why Common Climber's motto is "proudly crushing whatever we can when we can." We are in this busy world together while still celebrating the pure passion for climbing.
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This edition ended up being a large one, with nine new stories, a new comic from XaviMountain, and a series of videos that will be released over the next two months. Many of these stories are "people oriented," bringing you into the lives, minds, creativity, and experiences of our fellow Common Climbers - from a "U.S. west coast local legend" Scott "Plaid" Peterson (A Bard of Yosemite), to artist Lindsey Mathewson, to two old friends who go to Verdon, France and discover something unique, to one of the few female AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guides - Mia Tucholke of Colorado - who is a certified Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guide with the American Mountain Guide Association.
We also have an incredibly creative Featured Photographer LieseLotte P. LieseLotte captures the essence of the climbing community as well as what it means to some women to climb - especially with respect to owning our bodies. Rounding out our "people" stories is an amazing Indiana Jones-type tribute to an Australian climbing legend Max Cuttcliffe, and an interview with the author and photographer, Dave Parry, of the new bouldering book "Grit Blocs: 100 of the Finest Boulder Problems on Pennine Gritstone." Dave Parry shares some incredible photos and introduces us to this unique bouldering area in the U.K. There is also a rich release of climbing related books this fall. In addition to Grit Blocs, The Greater Fool - Brad Gobright and the Blinding Shine of Originality is being released. Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes reviews The Greater Fool. Jeff Smoot, regular Common Climber contributor and author of the reknowned book Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14 also has a new book coming out - All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing. In this edition we do something fun - Dave Barnes and I have a conversation with Jeff about free soling. We will be releasing a series of videos throughout September and October addressing a variety of questions about the topic of free soloing. The first video - Part 1 - is an introduction where each of us answers the question, "Who here has free soloed?" I invite you to scroll to the bottom of the page, watch the video, and subscribe to our YouTube channel so you can be the first to receive notices that the next video in the series has been released! |
Stefani Dawn on an "accidental free solo" at Whitehorse, New Hampshire ("Sea of Holes," 5.7/15). There were no warnings about the lack of protection on this climb, and the climb name "Sea of Holes" lead her to believe that there were holes in the rock where she could place some tricams. The first piece of protection was placed at approximately 130-feet up (her recollection was that the first piece of pro - a pink tricam - was at about 80 feet, but her husband reminded her it was more like 130...). The new name they dubbed this climb is "See No Holes." (Photo Credit: Rick Momsen)
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Lastly, this particularly people-focused edition includes an important lens about us - climbers as a group. Tanya Dreizen, in partnership with researcher Carol Lee, PhD, conducted a survey to determine if social pressure, preferred type of climbing, and indoor versus outdoor climbing impact Leave No Trace Behaviors. Read their very interesting results in the article Social Pressure, Climbing, and Leave No Trace. Their survey - and even our conversation with Jeff Smoot about free soling - illustrates the influence we have on each other.
Thank you for your continued support and interest in Common Climber. As an all-volunteer, free resource, we rely on you to help spread the word. So please follow and subscribe to our social media channels and share Common Climber on your favorite platforms!
-- Stef
Thank you for your continued support and interest in Common Climber. As an all-volunteer, free resource, we rely on you to help spread the word. So please follow and subscribe to our social media channels and share Common Climber on your favorite platforms!
-- Stef
Giveaway! Winner!
IG & FB Handle: @fivepeakscolorado
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We have a winner of the signed copy of Jeff Smoot's new book "All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing." @fivepeakscolorado (Instagram & Facebook handle)
Plus, we are almost finished with posting our conversation Jeff, Dave Barnes (Assistant Editor, Common Climber), and Stefani Dawn (editor, CC) about free soloing. Each video addresses a specific question about free soloing - such as how exactly is free soloing defined? (e.g. Is a really run out climb considered free soloing?) Or is free soloing selfish? Scroll to the bottom of the page to see the the videos that have been released. |
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Stories
Social Pressure, Climbing, and Leave No Trace
(By Tanya Dreizen) Two climbers and academicians wondered, "What is the best way to encourage better stewardship among climbers?" So they created a survey to determine if social pressure, preferred type of climbing, and indoor versus outdoor climbing impacted Leave No Trace Behaviors. |
What Two Friends Uncovered in Verdon
(By Don McGrath) Two long-time climbing friends meet up in Verdon, France to experience the long, committing, limestone sport climbs and, in the process, learn a little something new. |
People
A Bard of Yosemite
(By by Scott Peterson) There are Bards in Yosemite. In this magical place there are many. A Bard is that spinner of tales, a weaver of yarns, a teller of stories, a provocateur of the absurd. I am a Bard, a Traveling Troubadour of The Obscure. I seek those tales, stories, and places that others might pass by and miss. |
PROFILE - Mia Tucholke
(Interview with Dave Barnes) Mia Tucholke is an established climber and professional mountain guide. She became the 15th female IFMGA licensed mountain guide in the United States last year. She is based in Colorado and has spent her life developing the skills to lead folks through their mountaineering and climbing goals and hitting many winners along her journey. |
ARTIST - Lindsey Mathewson
(Interview with Stefani Dawn) Common Climber interviews climber and artist Lindsey Mathewson. Lindsey lives in Wisconsin (her home crag is Devil's Lake) and works with a variety of artistic media and highlights areas where we love to climb! Explore some of Linsey's art and learn a little more about her passion for climbing. |
Tribute
The Boy from Bothwell - A Tribute to Max Cutcliffe, An Australian Legend
(By Tony Mckenny) Long-time Australian climber Tony Mckenny - shares an amazing tribute about Max Cutcliffe - an Australian climbing legend. Max, an OG vanlifer and true adventurer, lived his life to the fullest - to say the least. |
Cartoon
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Books
REVIEW
The Greater Fool - Brad Gobright and the Blinding Shine of Originality Book By: Lucas Roman Published By: Di Angelo Publications Review By: Dave Barnes Release Date: Fall 2022 "The Greater Fool is a climbing biography done differently. It would not be a stretch to say it is a hagiography. The author writes about Brad like a Benedictine Monk prays to the Lord Jesus in hush tones with words spoken in vespers." |
INTERVIEW & PHOTOGRAPHY
Grit Blocs: 100 of the Finest Boulder Problems on Pennine Gritstone Book By: Dave Parry Published By: Vertebrate Publishing Release Date: September 2022 Dave Parry is a photographer, climber, and author. He began his climbing career on the gritstone crags of the Peak District in England and after a quarter of a century of dedication and hard work is convinced he will get the hang of it any day now. Dave finds breezy spring evenings climbing on Sheffield’s local gritstone crags hard to beat. Dave has written his first climbing book, Grit Blocs, which features incredible photography and highlights 100 of the finest bouldering problems on Pennine gritstone. |
Video: Free Soloing Conversation
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with
+ Author, Jeff Smoot + Common Climber Editor, Stefani Dawn + Common Climber Assistant Editor, Dave Barnes |
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INTRO - Part 1
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Part 2 - "How exactly is free soloing defined?"
Part 4 - "Impressionable Climbers"How much do media and other climbers influence people's choice to free solo?
Common Climber continues the conversation with Jeff Smoot, author of the book All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing. Part 6: Is free soloing selfish?Jeff, Stef, and Dave discuss whether free soloing is selfish.
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A multi-part video series:We will be releasing the videos throughout September and early October leading up to a giveaway in early October of a signed copy of the book. Each video will address a specific question including:
Part 7 - "What About Mental Health and Free Soloing?" |