2021 EBook is available at:
https://rockclimbingyosemite.com/product/2021-ebook-yosemite-bigwallsthe-ultimate-guide-downloadable-pdf/
https://rockclimbingyosemite.com/product/2021-ebook-yosemite-bigwallsthe-ultimate-guide-downloadable-pdf/
What do you do in the middle of a global pandemic? How about dreaming of or escaping to the promised land of climbing, Yosemite. Well, maybe it will be the former rather than the latter for the time being, but the time will come when the big wall rack will be dusted off and your eyes will seek out reading that will give you the latest route beta, the illustrious history, and something that will inspire you to live large again.
Yosemite Bigwalls is arguably the best ever presented and inspirational. It is a guidebook that will have you frothing like all good pilgrims should. There have been many climbing guides to the Valley, my original is worn and tatty from being hauled up routes and fingered through in the campfire light. This one is so cool I think I will just photocopy the needed bits and save the volume text for reading by my log fire at home, whisky in hand. Erik Sloan has comprehensively climbed in The Valley for more than 20 years and completed more than 1000 routes in the climbers’ Garden of Eden. He is also a steward of The Valley having replaced over 2000 bolts on Yosemite’s big walls. In the text, if Erik has not completed the route he says as much so a climber can check with other sources. To be sure. Erik has attempted to share his wisdom and insight of climbing these iconic walls and buttresses, the 2020 print book catalogues over 400 routes and this 2021 Ebook lists 140 routes. Many of them are complemented with up-to-date topos taking into account their changing geography of routes due to rockfall and the lack of or increase of traffic. He sorts out the weeds from the roses for the aspirant reader. Every major route gets a full page pin up with additional beta on the route including planning, elements/retreat, and First Ascent and First Free Ascent history. Of course, the mega classics get an extra dollop of cream; Salathe Wall has several pages of info and the Nose even more – it gets a mini guide. Freerider heralds the complementary spray and free climbing on big walls is evenly described and acknowledged throughout the text. A big tick to the new age of big wall climbing. Each area on both sides of the Valley is presented with detailed access and descent information shown throughout. Most mishaps happen in these places, so it is good that they have been given gold class status. At times the guide goes into learn to climb bigwall country but climbing these routes and the complex nature of big wall climbing are parts of the game that should be addressed and a good reminder for all of us to show care always. A little more instruction on safety and security is no bad thing on these long, involved multi-pitch routes. Knowledge is power and accidents on these routes can be catastrophic and rescues difficult. Gentle reminders really - it works. |
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The layout is excellent, and the photos are mouthwatering. There is history interwoven into the descriptions as well as explanations into the acquired culture of Valley Climbers. There is your modern go-to of great routes to do for starters and it progresses to routes for the rusted-on bigwall pirates. These are listed together in the guide for convenience, but the routes themselves are located throughout the Valley.
Erik Sloan has updated aspirant (and already dedicated) Yosemite climbers now and in the near future with a beautiful bible that any climbing theologian will flick through with delight. Like light to a moth, his guide will attract new lovers to place their hands upon Yosemite’s brilliant granite architecture; its walls, buttresses and the deep cracks that we have all come to respect and seek to dream or play upon.
Erik Sloan has updated aspirant (and already dedicated) Yosemite climbers now and in the near future with a beautiful bible that any climbing theologian will flick through with delight. Like light to a moth, his guide will attract new lovers to place their hands upon Yosemite’s brilliant granite architecture; its walls, buttresses and the deep cracks that we have all come to respect and seek to dream or play upon.
Erik Sloan's new guidebook is unequivocally the best Yosemite guidebook ever produced in the history of mountaineering literature, even if he says 'big wall' is one word. Sheesh."
-- "Pass the Piton's" Pete Zabrok
Co-author of Hooking Up - The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual