Onsight, flash, tronsight, redpoint, pinkpoint – If you aren’t quite sure what these terms mean, basically they describe variations of getting “the send” by climbing a route from top to bottom without falls or takes.
There appears to be somewhat of a hierarchical order to these “sends,” so I’ve listed them from most challenging to least, or perhaps it’s most scary to least, or maybe it's most brag-worthy to least.
The purest of the purest say that the only onsights are first ascents. But if an onsight is really only possible with a first ascent, then what is left for the rest of us? Oh, plenty!
For a redpoint there is no formal distinction (yet) between whether it was your second or 200th attempt. A redpoint, is a redpoint, is a redpoint. I know. Unfair. We really should get some credit for a send on the second attempt versus the 200th try (after all, journalists let us know when Adam Ondra sends a 5.14 in two tries). Or, perhaps we should get some credit when it’s actually taken us 200 attempts to accomplish the climb – now that’s some dedication! So we are going to fix that right now. Start keeping track of the number of times you attempted a climb and insert that number into the middle of the word redpoint and add -er. Here are some examples:
The challenge is, unless you are really accounting-oriented and can keep accurate track, the number becomes less meaningful. Perhaps we should stop the counting after 50 attempts and just call anything more than 50 tries a plain ole Red Point? Or, would could add “ish” to our description. EXAMPLE: “I just red-200ish-pointer-ed my proj!” (In case you didn't know, proj = project.)
But, if you do send it on the first try, maybe we should give the pink point flash a little credit. Let’s call it a pink-flash. Now it’s official, we’ve invented another new term – the pink-flash.
But wait! Have you ever wondered why when we see photos of the top climbers finally sending their big proj, there are already draws up? Technically they just pink pointed, not red pointed their climb. It doesn't matter if they were the ones that put the draws up in the first place. It is still a pink point. I call DO OVER! Pull those draws people!
As climbing becomes more and more nuanced and sophisticated, we can only continue to expand our terminology so a single word can describe a complicated event that must be defined. And, there are some nuances we need to work out in these definitions. For example, if someone takes a nap for 20 minutes on a ledge or hangs out for 10 minutes on a knee bar, even if it is a first ascent and the climb is done without any falls, can it still really count as an onsight? Come on. The send is not real if you rest – how is the nappy-poo or knee-bar any different than a take?
And, to be true climbers, we must be diligent about keeping the sanctity of these terms in place. For example, the other day my husband completed a climb - without falls - and he tried to claim that he “onsighted” that climb. No way. Not even. That climb is as old as dirt, probably established by Becky. Then he backstepped and said he "flashed it." Nope. Try again! I know for a fact he attempted that climb ten years ago. That is a REDPOINT buddy, even if you don't remember a darn thing about that climb. It's in your subconscious, your muscle memory. Do you at least remember how many times you attempted that climb ten years ago? We could call it your "red-15ish-point-er."
There appears to be somewhat of a hierarchical order to these “sends,” so I’ve listed them from most challenging to least, or perhaps it’s most scary to least, or maybe it's most brag-worthy to least.
- The onsight - the “purest” and most brag-worthy of all sends – You lead the climb, place the draws/protection yourself, and you must do it all without ANY prior beta. Nothing, nada, not even the guidebook description. To complete a "true" onsight - and be able to legitimately call it an onsight (well, maybe) – the following must be accomplished:
- Do not watch anyone do the climb.
- Don’t even look up at the climb and study it.
- Tell your beta-spraying buds keep their mouths closed or you won’t give them one of the celebratory beers.
- If you overheard the climbers next door say there’s a dyno at that one spot, well, oops, no more onsight.
- Are there chalk marks on the climb? Forget it, no onsight for you! You got help!
The purest of the purest say that the only onsights are first ascents. But if an onsight is really only possible with a first ascent, then what is left for the rest of us? Oh, plenty!
- The Flash – The flash is like an onsight but it's not. Since what you climbed probably wasn't a first ascent, and the mere fact that bolts can count as beta, or someone told you there is a small hidden mono at the crux (even if you never even use it), the send, somehow, just got a little easier. So, it's called something different. In most climbing cases, the bottom-to-top send on the first attempt is really a flash. So next time your buddy tries to claim an onsight, you can now sound educated and correct him or her. You might get a flash of some dagger eyes, but hey, this is climbing, its important, so get it right!
- Redpoint is when you finally, after at least one attempt, lead the climb (placing your own draws each time), completely and cleanly. With the redpoint you are sending the climb after previous attempts.
For a redpoint there is no formal distinction (yet) between whether it was your second or 200th attempt. A redpoint, is a redpoint, is a redpoint. I know. Unfair. We really should get some credit for a send on the second attempt versus the 200th try (after all, journalists let us know when Adam Ondra sends a 5.14 in two tries). Or, perhaps we should get some credit when it’s actually taken us 200 attempts to accomplish the climb – now that’s some dedication! So we are going to fix that right now. Start keeping track of the number of times you attempted a climb and insert that number into the middle of the word redpoint and add -er. Here are some examples:
- If you nail the send on the second try, say you got a red-2-pointer
- If you nail it on the 200th try it’s a red-200-pointer.
The challenge is, unless you are really accounting-oriented and can keep accurate track, the number becomes less meaningful. Perhaps we should stop the counting after 50 attempts and just call anything more than 50 tries a plain ole Red Point? Or, would could add “ish” to our description. EXAMPLE: “I just red-200ish-pointer-ed my proj!” (In case you didn't know, proj = project.)
- Pinkpoint is when you send the climb on lead, but the draws/protection were already placed. This is obviously supremely easier than the redpoint. After all, you don’t have to hold on as long or reach as high to make the clip. Unlike a redpoint, nobody brags about a pink point, so we aren’t even going to be concerned about how many times it took to get the send. If you get it on the first try with out any beta ever, too bad, it’s not an onsight and it never, ever will be an onsight (if by the mere fact that it is not a first ascent because someone else put up the draws.) It's not even a pink-sight.
But, if you do send it on the first try, maybe we should give the pink point flash a little credit. Let’s call it a pink-flash. Now it’s official, we’ve invented another new term – the pink-flash.
But wait! Have you ever wondered why when we see photos of the top climbers finally sending their big proj, there are already draws up? Technically they just pink pointed, not red pointed their climb. It doesn't matter if they were the ones that put the draws up in the first place. It is still a pink point. I call DO OVER! Pull those draws people!
- The tronsight. For the terminology and climbing purist this word, the “tronsight” is an abomination. It implies an onsight but on top rope. For the purist, a tronsight happens one time - it's a first ascent on toprope. So 99.99% of us don't get a tronsight. So, in the interest of climbing purity, we must call it a toprope flash or “TRash” as in “I TRashed that route!”
As climbing becomes more and more nuanced and sophisticated, we can only continue to expand our terminology so a single word can describe a complicated event that must be defined. And, there are some nuances we need to work out in these definitions. For example, if someone takes a nap for 20 minutes on a ledge or hangs out for 10 minutes on a knee bar, even if it is a first ascent and the climb is done without any falls, can it still really count as an onsight? Come on. The send is not real if you rest – how is the nappy-poo or knee-bar any different than a take?
And, to be true climbers, we must be diligent about keeping the sanctity of these terms in place. For example, the other day my husband completed a climb - without falls - and he tried to claim that he “onsighted” that climb. No way. Not even. That climb is as old as dirt, probably established by Becky. Then he backstepped and said he "flashed it." Nope. Try again! I know for a fact he attempted that climb ten years ago. That is a REDPOINT buddy, even if you don't remember a darn thing about that climb. It's in your subconscious, your muscle memory. Do you at least remember how many times you attempted that climb ten years ago? We could call it your "red-15ish-point-er."
What About Gym Sends?
To give gym sends their proper terminology, add a "g" or "gym" in front of the word.
- There is no such thing as a gymsite, not even by the route setter, because most route setters are climbing sections of the route while they are putting it up.
- If you flash a climb at the gym, call it a "glash."
- There are NO red points at a gym because the draws are always up.
- A pink point is called a "gink point."
- A toprope or autobelay flash is called a "gym TRash" as in "Hey I just gym TRashed that 5.12!"
Now that we have this sorted out, we will be sending these new terms to the 8a.nu scorecard, so now you can really keep track!