Common Climber Marketplace is highlights small climbing-related businesses to help spread the word about their work and to help our community thrive.
|
This is an interview with Kevin Daniels, CEO of FIXEhardware, Inc.
FIXEhardware, Inc. is a California-based company whose products are made in Catalonia, Spain. In 1992 CEO Kevin Daniels began FIXEhardware in his dad’s garage by importing numerous high-quality, CE/UIAA certified climbing hardware like bolts and hangers. Over the years, Kevin has expanded the company’s climbing product repertoire to include webbing, ropes, draws, and the Alien cams. Now based in a commercial space in Bishop, CA, Kevin still runs the business, wearing numerous hats. We are glad to share with you his words of small business history and wisdom. |
CEO of FIXEharware Kevin Daniels
|
The FIXEhardware origin story is that back in 1992 you were climbing the Lotus Flower Tower in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimables in Canada, you met some climbers from Spain, and over dinner, the business was born. How has business changed for you since then?
Not much has changed really. The business was consummated over a hand shake, trust, and honesty. A man met another man, they made an agreement and shook hands. The men have honored that agreement and kept their word to one another, it’s not that difficult and, yes, it’s that simple. Life can be simple.
I started the business in 1993 out of my parent’s garage in Huntington Beach, California. Later that year I moved into a shared space with Climb-It Holds in Santa Ana, California and a year later I bought Climb-It Holds and ran both companies out of our Santa Ana Location. In 2003 I moved FIXEhardware to Bishop, California where we are located today.
Not much has changed really. The business was consummated over a hand shake, trust, and honesty. A man met another man, they made an agreement and shook hands. The men have honored that agreement and kept their word to one another, it’s not that difficult and, yes, it’s that simple. Life can be simple.
I started the business in 1993 out of my parent’s garage in Huntington Beach, California. Later that year I moved into a shared space with Climb-It Holds in Santa Ana, California and a year later I bought Climb-It Holds and ran both companies out of our Santa Ana Location. In 2003 I moved FIXEhardware to Bishop, California where we are located today.
Why did you select Bishop, California as your location of choice?
Small town people, access, and beauty.
Small town people, access, and beauty.
Kevin Daniels on "The Nautilus" (5.12) in the Needles, Sierra Nevadas, California. Photo Credit: Greg Epperson
|
Kevin Daneils on a first ascent of “Thermopylae” at Chimney Rock in the Sierra Nevadas, California. Photo Credit: Greg Epperson
|
|
You began with the “hardware” side of the business – specialized bolts, hangers, and rap rings placed in rock for protection – and you are still selling these products. You are also educating climbers how to safely bolt climbs. What should climbers know about the hardware side of FIXEhardware? Why should they consider using FIXEhardware instead of other options out there?
When I first started FIXEhardware, modern anchor systems for climbing did not exist, hence my interest. Climbing gyms were also just starting to become viable businesses. Wayne Campbell, the owner of Radwall, is a good friend and visionary who supported me and the products from the start. At this point in time many companies make quality products for equipping climbs both indoor and outdoor. I guess it comes down to where and how you want to spend your dollars and who benefits from that decision. Are you feeding a corporate entity or a small business? I guess it’s about choice and how you want your world and other people’s world to look and act. |
FIXE's 40 kN PLX/Duplex Stainless Steel Hanger. This is currently the strongest hanger available and is the standard for bolt replacement.
|
If someone is thinking about bolting their own project, what advice would you give?
Ask yourself a few questions: Who owns the land? Does a local group or ethic exist that you can acknowledge? What environmental factors are present that will need to be considered when choosing types and quality of hardware? Have fun and do your thing.
ED NOTE: FIXEhardware has a bolting for rock climbing video series. Below are the first two episodes. You can go to the FIXEhardware YouTube Channel to see the others:
- Video 1: Bolting Considerations for Rock Climbing
- Video 2: Bolt Selection
- Video 3: Wedge Bolt Installation
- Video 4: Triplex Bolt Installation
- Video 5: Power Bolt (aka. Rawl 5-piece Installation
- Video 6: Glue-In Bolt Installation
Video 1: Bolting Considerations for Rock Climbing |
Video 2: Bolt Selection
|
FIXEhardware has donated over $200,000 in product in support of anchor and bolt replacement in the U.S. through the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association), ARI (Anchor Replacement Initiative), individuals and local organizations. That is really awesome. How can people best support their local crag in keeping climbing hardware safe?
Acknowledge the FACT that shit happens. If a bolt of gear failure will put you on the ground or hurt you, DON’T RISK A FALL. If you’re using a crag, then donate your Starbucks money to help maintain it!
FIXEhardware is bringing in other climbing gear, like the original Alien Cam . Tell us more about that.
After Dave Wagoner passed, the company was purchased and we updated the design and product resulting in the latest version available.
What do you love about the Fixe Alien cam? As a trad climber, why should I add it to my rack?
It is the OG small cam and set the standard for flexible modern cams. Every make and model of modern cam can find its birthplace in the original Alien design. That original design was patented and completely controlled and dominated the market until the patent ran out. To date I still have not found a better more functional or usable small cam.
After Dave Wagoner passed, the company was purchased and we updated the design and product resulting in the latest version available.
What do you love about the Fixe Alien cam? As a trad climber, why should I add it to my rack?
It is the OG small cam and set the standard for flexible modern cams. Every make and model of modern cam can find its birthplace in the original Alien design. That original design was patented and completely controlled and dominated the market until the patent ran out. To date I still have not found a better more functional or usable small cam.
[ED. NOTE: Check out a fun history of how the Alien got its name.]
|
Some special features of the FIXE Alien Revolution Cams:
|
FIXE Alien Revolution cams
|
Close-up of the FIXE Alien Revolution cam.
|
|
One of the things that particularly interests me in the Fixe Alien cam are the “hybrid” cams (also commonly referred to as off-set cams), where one set of lobes is one size and the second set of lobes is a different size. What is the advantage of this arrangement? Does your “regular ‘ole” trad climber need this sort of cam or is it just for certain areas/types of rocks or types of climbers (i.e. the hardcore)?
With a few exceptions like Indian Creek or splitter basalt columns and a few anomalies, cracks are not parallel. So, if you know how and where to place passive protection you use and place offsets in those constrictions like you would a nut. This effectively helps eliminate “walking” and rotation of the cam when moving above it. If I had to choose one or the other I would choose the offset units every time, it’s a more versatile piece of equipment with the few exceptions I mention above.
The FIXE Alien offset cams. Look closely at the cams which have different sized lobes.
FIXEhardware sells Roca ropes. I’ve actually never heard of Roca ropes before. Why Roca?
The company Roca has been making ropes in Spain for 127 years now. It’s a very old Catalonian company that was family owned and operated. The company was purchased to revitalize the brand and include it in the selection. It’s a quality product that has a very deep and long history, that said, it’s not a corporate brand with a corporate budget so we won’t be paying any super stars to advertise it for us. Soon the ropes will be branded as FIXE ropes.
FIXEhardware Siurana Rope
|
Common Climber YouTube video on Rope Specs that uses the specs of the FIXEhardware Siurana rope
|
Are you still climbing? If so, what’s your favorite style of climbing and favorite place to climb?
Yes, but infrequently. I climb to spend time with certain people and friends typically in remote locations away from people. My favorite places to climb are in the mountains, wherever.
|
What’s something that you have learned in owning a small business? Any advice for someone considering starting a business of their own?
If you’re doing it to make money or gain power you might get it, but that won’t last or fulfill you on a daily basis. Control your overhead, give back, pay everyone before you pay yourself, pay your debts. Start what you finish even if that means going out of business with integrity and ethics. Try again, and again. Failing and learning from that failure are part of the process. You have to learn to embrace your mistakes, apologize when necessary, surround yourself with intelligent, strong people who will challenge you and be honest with you. Stand your ground when your GUT talks to you and believe in yourself. Lead by example and do everything you ask your employees to do. Keep overhead low and don’t overspend. What’s one thing you wish climbers knew in general? It’s your decision and responsibility - all of it - go up or go down. It’s that simple. What’s one thing you’d like them to know about FIXEhardware? We are doing our best, probably just like you are. |
Kevin Daniels on the first ascent “The KD Factor” at the Pollen Grains in the Buttermilks, California. Photo Credit: Wills Young
|