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Common Climber Marketplace is highlights small climbing-related businesses to help spread the word about their work and to help our community thrive.

This is an interview with Kevin Daniels, CEO of FIXEhardware, Inc.
 
FIXEhardware, Inc. is a California-based company whose products are made in Catalonia, Spain. In 1992 CEO Kevin Daniels began FIXEhardware in his dad’s garage by importing numerous high-quality, CE/UIAA certified climbing hardware like bolts and hangers. Over the years, Kevin has expanded the company’s climbing product repertoire to include webbing, ropes, draws, and the Alien cams. Now based in a commercial space in Bishop, CA, Kevin still runs the business, wearing numerous hats. We are glad to share with you his words of small business history and wisdom.   
Picture
CEO of FIXEharware Kevin Daniels

The FIXEhardware origin story is that back in 1992 you were climbing the Lotus Flower Tower in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimables in Canada, you met some climbers from Spain, and over dinner, the business was born. How has business changed for you since then?
 
Not much has changed really.  The business was consummated over a hand shake, trust, and honesty.  A man met another man, they made an agreement and shook hands. The men have honored that agreement and kept their word to one another, it’s not that difficult and, yes, it’s that simple. Life can be simple.
 
I started the business in 1993 out of my parent’s garage in Huntington Beach, California. Later that year I moved into a shared space with Climb-It Holds in Santa Ana, California and a year later I bought Climb-It Holds and ran both companies out of our Santa Ana Location. In 2003 I moved FIXEhardware to Bishop, California where we are located today.

Why did you select Bishop, California as your location of choice? 
 
Small town people, access, and beauty.
Picture
Kevin Daniels on "The Nautilus" (5.12) in the Needles, Sierra Nevadas, California. Photo Credit: Greg Epperson
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Kevin Daneils on a first ascent of “Thermopylae” at Chimney Rock in the Sierra Nevadas, California. Photo Credit: Greg Epperson

You began with the “hardware” side of the business – specialized bolts, hangers, and rap rings placed in rock for protection – and you are still selling these products. You are also educating climbers how to safely bolt climbs. What should climbers know about the hardware side of FIXEhardware? Why should they consider using FIXEhardware instead of other options out there? 
 
When I first started FIXEhardware, modern anchor systems for climbing did not exist, hence my interest. Climbing gyms were also just starting to become viable businesses. Wayne Campbell, the owner of Radwall, is a good friend and visionary who supported me and the products from the start. At this point in time many companies make quality products for equipping climbs both indoor and outdoor. I guess it comes down to where and how you want to spend your dollars and who benefits from that decision.  Are you feeding a corporate entity or a small business? I guess it’s about choice and how you want your world and other people’s world to look and act.
Picture
FIXE's 40 kN PLX/Duplex Stainless Steel Hanger. This is currently the strongest hanger available and is the standard for bolt replacement.


​If someone is thinking about bolting their own project, what advice would you give?
 

Ask yourself a few questions:  Who owns the land? Does a local group or ethic exist that you can acknowledge? What environmental factors are present that will need to be considered when choosing types and quality of hardware?  Have fun and do your thing.
ED NOTE: FIXEhardware has a bolting for rock climbing video series. Below are the first two episodes. You can go to the FIXEhardware YouTube Channel to see the others:
  • Video 1: Bolting Considerations for Rock Climbing
  • Video 2: Bolt Selection
  • Video 3: Wedge Bolt Installation
  • Video 4: Triplex Bolt Installation
  • Video 5: Power Bolt (aka. Rawl 5-piece Installation
  • ​Video 6: Glue-In Bolt Installation

Video 1: Bolting Considerations for Rock Climbing

Video 2: Bolt Selection
​



 FIXEhardware has donated over $200,000 in product in support of anchor and bolt replacement in the U.S. through the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association), ARI (Anchor Replacement Initiative), individuals and local organizations. That is really awesome. How can people best support their local crag in keeping climbing hardware safe?
 
Acknowledge the FACT that shit happens. If a bolt of gear failure will put you on the ground or hurt you, DON’T RISK A FALL.  If you’re using a crag, then donate your Starbucks money to help maintain it!

FIXEhardware is bringing in other climbing gear, like the original Alien Cam . Tell us more about that. 
 
After Dave Wagoner passed, the company was purchased and we updated the design and product resulting in the latest version available.
 
What do you love about the Fixe Alien cam? As a trad climber, why should I add it to my rack?
 
It is the OG small cam and set the standard for flexible modern cams. Every make and model of modern cam can find its birthplace in the original Alien design. That original design was patented and completely controlled and dominated the market until the patent ran out. To date I still have not found a better more functional or usable small cam.
[ED. NOTE: Check out a fun history of how the Alien got its name.]
Some special features of the FIXE Alien Revolution Cams: 
  • Repairable pins
  • Longer thumb pull for easy recovery and better performance in deep cracks
  • Lateral openings in the pull where you can insert a nut tool to help retract the cam if it goes too deep in the crack
  • Flexibility for superior protection in horizontal cracks
Picture
FIXE Alien Revolution cams
Picture
Close-up of the FIXE Alien Revolution cam.
Picture


One of the things that particularly interests me in the Fixe Alien cam are the “hybrid” cams (also commonly referred to as off-set cams), where one set of lobes is one size and the second set of lobes is a different size. What is the advantage of this arrangement? Does your “regular ‘ole” trad climber need this sort of cam or is it just for certain areas/types of rocks or types of climbers (i.e. the hardcore)?
 
With a few exceptions like Indian Creek or splitter basalt columns and a few anomalies, cracks are not parallel. So, if you know how and where to place passive protection you use and place offsets in those constrictions like you would a nut.  This effectively helps eliminate “walking” and rotation of the cam when moving above it. If I had to choose one or the other I would choose the offset units every time, it’s a more versatile piece of equipment with the few exceptions I mention above.
Picture
The FIXE Alien offset cams. Look closely at the cams which have different sized lobes.


 FIXEhardware sells Roca ropes. I’ve actually never heard of Roca ropes before. Why Roca?  
 
The company Roca has been making ropes in Spain for 127 years now. It’s a very old Catalonian company that was family owned and operated. The company was purchased to revitalize the brand and include it in the selection. It’s a quality product that has a very deep and long history, that said, it’s not a corporate brand with a corporate budget so we won’t be paying any super stars to advertise it for us. Soon the ropes will be branded as FIXE ropes.
Picture
FIXEhardware Siurana Rope
Common Climber YouTube video on Rope Specs that uses the specs of the FIXEhardware Siurana rope


Are you still climbing? If so, what’s your favorite style of climbing and favorite place to climb? 
 
Yes, but infrequently.  I climb to spend time with certain people and friends typically in remote locations away from people. My favorite places to climb are in the mountains, wherever.

What’s something that you have learned in owning a small business? Any advice for someone considering starting a business of their own? 
 
If you’re doing it to make money or gain power you might get it, but that won’t last or fulfill you on a daily basis. Control your overhead, give back, pay everyone before you pay yourself, pay your debts. Start what you finish even if that means going out of business with integrity and ethics. Try again, and again. Failing and learning from that failure are part of the process. You have to learn to embrace your mistakes, apologize when necessary, surround yourself with intelligent, strong people who will challenge you and be honest with you. Stand your ground when your GUT talks to you and believe in yourself. Lead by example and do everything you ask your employees to do. Keep overhead low and don’t overspend.

 
What’s one thing you wish climbers knew in general? 
 
It’s your decision and responsibility - all of it - go up or go down. It’s that simple.



​What’s one thing you’d like them to know about FIXEhardware? 
 
We are doing our best, probably just like you are.
Picture
Kevin Daniels on the first ascent “The KD Factor” at the Pollen Grains in the Buttermilks, California. Photo Credit: Wills Young

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          • Climbing with Type 1 Diabetes
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        • Belaytionships Edition >
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          • Belaytionships: Drew-and-Sarah
          • Belaytionships: Jeantique and Natalie
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          • Book Review: Uncoiling the Ropes
          • Zac the Interloper
        • Big Wall Edition >
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          • Featured Photographer: Matt Spohn
          • Grading Commitment
          • Hanging with the Monkeys, and Getting the Monkey Off My Back
          • It Was His Time: Brad Gobright Interview May 2019
          • John Middendorf : A Big Man for a Big Stone
          • Sébastien Berthe Free Climbs the Nose From the Ground Up
          • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
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        • PROFILE - Marisa Michael - Nutrition for Climbers
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      • CoVID and Climbing >
        • COVID Climbing Memes
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        • Dear Memory
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        • Trying to Send this Route
      • Equipment (writings) >
        • Aliens!
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        • The One Item to Stockpile
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        • Why GriGris Suck
        • 8 Reasons I Carry a Full Rack on Every Trad Climb
      • Facebook Feature >
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      • Grades, Styles, & Types >
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      • Kids >
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      • Mental-Physical >
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          • Improving Hip Mobility
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          • Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining
        • A Climb Worth Fighting For
        • Achilles
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        • Fear, Pride, and Exploration
        • How Auto-Immune Disease Affected My Climbing
        • Mastering Joy on Easy Street
        • Mind, Body, and Soul
        • My Demon Has a Name
        • New Year's Resolutions
        • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws
        • Push and Pull
        • Sorcerer and the Kidney Stone
        • Take Risks - You'll Remember Them Later
        • The Art of Climbing Without Rock
        • The Devil's Game
        • The Taste of Climbing
        • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8
      • Other/Misc >
        • Assault on Schurman Rock
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        • Dorothy, We Aren't on Havana Anymore
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        • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb
        • Snakes and Ladders
        • Starting Over
        • The Adventure of A Lifetime - So Far
        • The Bane of Northwest Climbing
        • The Pink Tricam
        • Things of Stone and Wood
        • Zac the Interloper
      • Places & Climbs >
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          • Consolation Prize
          • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited
          • From Yorkshire to Eternity
          • Tiptoeing Through Some Bungles
          • Tombstone Territory
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
        • Location Reviews
        • My Home Crag >
          • Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky
          • Drytooling in the Rain - Wayne's World, WA
          • My Home Crag: Nowra, NSW, Australia
        • Travel Stories >
          • Blue Mountains - Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys
          • Buenos Aires, Argentina Crag
          • Colorado - Calling Pat Ament
          • Coolum Cave - Sendfest 8
          • Ecuador - A Nation of Four Worlds
          • El Potrero Chico - Riding the Dirty Dog
          • Yosemite: Growing Up
          • Lover's Leap - Zone of Craptitude
          • Rio de Janeiro - Classic Climbs Sampler
          • Taghia, Morocco - Hardly Failing
          • Tasmania - Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’
          • Thailand - Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
          • Vedauwoo, WY
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
          • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing
        • 2020 U.S. Rock Climbing Festivals
      • Poetry/Prose >
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        • Sojourn at Dyuritte
        • Finding Poetry
        • Ice is Nice
        • The Space Between
      • Safety and Skills >
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        • Euro-Death Knot is NOT
        • Multi-Pitch Tips: Two ATCs
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        • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip
        • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices
      • Science Fiction >
        • Red Curtain: Prologue
      • Social, Social Media, & Social Issues >
        • Chossy Trio Renegades
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        • Diversity in Climbing is Not a Bandwagon
        • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs"
        • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
        • My Husband Climbs Stronger than Me
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  • Reviews
    • Books >
      • Advanced Rock Climbing Book Review
      • Adventures at the Edge of the World
      • Climbing Rock: Vertical Explorations Across North America
      • Hangdog Days Book Review
      • HOOKING UP: The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual
      • Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story - Book Review
    • Equipment/Gear Reviews >
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        • Edelrid Mega Jul
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      • Packs and Bags >
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      • Other >
        • Dr. Piton's Review of the D4 Delta2P Portaledge
    • Location Reviews >
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          • Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
          • Kangaroo Point Review
        • New South Wales Australia >
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            • Blue Mountains Photos and Beta
            • Blue Mountains Review
          • Nowra >
            • Nowra Review >
              • Nowra Photos and Beta
      • Mexico >
        • Potrero Chico Photos and Beta
        • Potrero Chico Review
      • United States >
        • Climbing Area Check List - U.S. >
          • Climbing Area Check List Part 1: Alabama to California
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 2: Colorado to Michigan
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 3: Minnesota to New Mexico
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 4: New York to Wyoming
        • Arizona >
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            • Joshua Tree Tips
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        • Idaho >
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            • City of Rocks Photos and Beta
            • City of Rocks Review
        • Oregon >
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            • Smith Rock - Photos and Beta
            • Smith Rock Review
          • Spring Mountain >
            • Spring Mountain Review
            • Spring Mountain - Photos and Beta
          • Trout Creek >
            • Trout Creek Photos and Beta
            • Trout Creek Review
        • Nevada >
          • Gun Club
          • Keyhole Canyon
          • Mt. Charleston, Nevada
          • Red Rock Canyon >
            • Red Rock Canyon Review - Yeahs and Neahs
            • Red Rocks Photos and Beta
        • New Hampshire >
          • North Conway, NH
          • Rumney, NH
        • New York >
          • Gunks Review
        • Utah >
          • Echo Canyon
          • Ferguson Canyon >
            • Ferguson Canyon Photos and Beta
            • Ferguson Canyon Review
          • Ibex >
            • Ibex Photos and Beta
            • Ibex Review
          • Maple Canyon >
            • Maple Canyon, Utah Photos and Beta
            • Maple Canyon Review
          • Moab >
            • Moab - Main - Photos and Beta
            • Moab -Main - Review
          • St. George >
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall- Photos and Beta
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall - Review
        • West Virginia >
          • Seneca Rocks
        • Wyoming >
          • Ten Sleep
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