Cover photo by Karen Chan
HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM COMMON CLIMBER!
Featured Photographer - Karen Chan
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Karen Chan is a rock climbing photographer based in Hong Kong. Karen has an incredibly vibrant style that captures both the expression of climbing and the unique scenery of the area. Read her interview and see some of her awe-inspiring photos! |
Editorial
Welcome to the January 2021 edition of Common Climber!
Most years it's nice to take a moment to reflect upon and appreciate what has passed, but, I think many of us can agree, we are just grateful that 2020 HAS PASSED and we can say "Don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out!"
Most years it's nice to take a moment to reflect upon and appreciate what has passed, but, I think many of us can agree, we are just grateful that 2020 HAS PASSED and we can say "Don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out!"
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Although 2020 has been hell in many ways - and believe me, I'm ready to send 2020 on its way as quickly as possible - there is one expression of gratitude and one expression of condolence about 2020 that I must share.
First, thank you to YOU. Thank you to our contributors. Thank you to our Kickstarter and fundraiser supporters. Thank you to our readers and social media followers. Thank you to our Advisory Board members. Thank you to our Anthology sponsors and Stephanie Jordan, who is the graphic designer who helped layout the Anthology. Thank you to Sierra Cranford who designed our "Proud to Be a Common Climber" t-shirt. Thank you to Dave Barnes our Assistant Editor. Without all of you, without your creativity, positivity, and support, we would not be where we are - a growing, high quality media outlet for us, the Common Climber. |
Editor, Stefani Dawn in Smith Rock, Oregon. Photo Credit: Bryan Sillorequez
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Second, we cannot say goodbye to 2020 without acknowledging the lives that have been lost to COVID. We extend our deepest condolences to the families who are mourning the loss of their loved ones. And, for those of you who had COVID and are struggling with recovery, we wish you smooth and rapid healing.
As we put this year behind us we look forward. Looking forward to a vision is a necessary part of human survival as well as growth. I think climbers are naturally goal oriented, we see a line on a rock that calls to us and do what it takes to climb it. But, to really achieve a vision we need to have a purpose we believe in and a process that works. In the article Never Give Up on Setting New Year's Resolutions, climber and health coach Brianna Boney takes us through an excellent vision and goal setting process. She digs into the details of making plans, setting SMART goals, having accountability. She talks about "chunking it down to weekly 'experiments.' Why call them experiments? Because you can’t fail them and learning what doesn’t work for you is also part of the process." Makes total sense.
We are excited about what is in store for Common Climber this year. And we have some great goals:
If there is anyway you would like to help Common Climber achieve any of these goals, I'd love to hear from you! Send me an email at: [email protected].
I am proud to say that we are jumping into 2021 with both feet regarding representation. Our Feature Photographer is Karen Chan who is from Hong Kong. Karen has an amazing eye and distinctive style that gives us a sense of what it's like to climb in Hong Kong. We also have a story about Claire Larson who is a transgender ice, rock, and alpine climber based out of Bozeman, Montana. I asked Claire how she felt talking about being a trans-climber. She said, “I don’t want to be recognized as a trans-climber. I just want to be Claire, a climber. But I also realize that when I was 16-years old, 18-years old, I didn’t have the language of being transgender. There was no one to look up to, no one like me, no role models. I had nobody. That was very lonely and difficult..." Please take a moment to read Claire's story. If you are not familiar with what transgender means and how to talk about it, this story might help.
We also have a great slate of other climbing stories including:
Enjoy!
As we put this year behind us we look forward. Looking forward to a vision is a necessary part of human survival as well as growth. I think climbers are naturally goal oriented, we see a line on a rock that calls to us and do what it takes to climb it. But, to really achieve a vision we need to have a purpose we believe in and a process that works. In the article Never Give Up on Setting New Year's Resolutions, climber and health coach Brianna Boney takes us through an excellent vision and goal setting process. She digs into the details of making plans, setting SMART goals, having accountability. She talks about "chunking it down to weekly 'experiments.' Why call them experiments? Because you can’t fail them and learning what doesn’t work for you is also part of the process." Makes total sense.
We are excited about what is in store for Common Climber this year. And we have some great goals:
- Get the Anthology into climber's living rooms and hands! Let's sell out our first print run!
- Bring the Common Climber concept to YouTube. Yes, we are starting a YouTube channel that features the high quality video work of Common Climbers! The premier will be in February 2021 - stay tuned for details. It's going to be fun! (Follow us on Instagram and Facebook to get the latest)
- Continue to grow our presence in the climbing media world. Let's double our number of followers and readers. I think Common Climbers deserve the recognition!
- Expand our representation of POC, LGBTQ, and climbers from different parts of the world in all of our forums. These people are not absent from our climbing world, let's let them shine too.
If there is anyway you would like to help Common Climber achieve any of these goals, I'd love to hear from you! Send me an email at: [email protected].
I am proud to say that we are jumping into 2021 with both feet regarding representation. Our Feature Photographer is Karen Chan who is from Hong Kong. Karen has an amazing eye and distinctive style that gives us a sense of what it's like to climb in Hong Kong. We also have a story about Claire Larson who is a transgender ice, rock, and alpine climber based out of Bozeman, Montana. I asked Claire how she felt talking about being a trans-climber. She said, “I don’t want to be recognized as a trans-climber. I just want to be Claire, a climber. But I also realize that when I was 16-years old, 18-years old, I didn’t have the language of being transgender. There was no one to look up to, no one like me, no role models. I had nobody. That was very lonely and difficult..." Please take a moment to read Claire's story. If you are not familiar with what transgender means and how to talk about it, this story might help.
We also have a great slate of other climbing stories including:
- the third story in a trio about Mt. Piddington, Australia classic climbs. This time it's Tombstone Territory by Keith Bell;
- an incredible Yosemite tale by Jack Waterhouse called Growing Up;
- an interview of Kentucky locals Joe Martin and Brice Burton about Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, KY;
- a Marketplace interview with one of our Anthology sponsors Mystery Ranch. In case you aren't familiar with them, Mystery Ranch makes packs - and that's ALL they make. They are the experts and they have a series of packs just for rock and ice climbing. Check them out and learn a little more about this Bozeman, Montana based company; And,
- a fun Facebook Feature Climbing Book Search and Find.
Enjoy!
Stories
Never Give Up on Setting New Year’s Resolutions
(By Brianna Boney) Brianna Boney is a climber and behavior change expert who shares why she believes New Year's Resolutions are helpful and how we can best achieve them. |
Tombstone Territory
(By Keith Bell) Tombstone Wall is a classic John Ewbank 15 (5.7) on Mt. Piddington in the Blue Mountains of Australia. Keith Bell takes us on a tour of this fine line. This is the last article in a three-part series highlighting classic climbs of Mt. Piddington. |
Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
(By Stefani Dawn) When Claire announced that she was going back to Bozeman, friends and family initially questioned her choice. They wondered, “Why not go back to San Francisco where there is a large representation of transgender people? Why place yourself into a community that is full of homophobia and transphobia?” “Because I love it there,” was her response. “Because I climb rocks, ice, and mountains. I cannot separate being trans from my climbing.” |
Growing Up
(By Jack Waterhouse) Jack Waterhouse had a vision of climbing and living in Yosemite - maybe forever? Or maybe growing up reshapes you in unexpected ways. Jack takes us on his quest to climb El-Cap and the changing landscape of life and Yosemite. |
Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky (An Interview with locals Joe Martin and Brice Burton) Locals Joe Martin and Brice Burton share their efforts to conserve the Daniel Boone National Forest in southern Kentucky (which is threatened by logging) by promoting local climbing spots and establishing the non-profit Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project. Learn more about this local area and download a guidebook. |
Marketplace Interview
The Common Climber Marketplace features interviews of small climbing-related businesses so you can get to know them a little better. Small businesses form the backbone of our climbing - we couldn't climb or train without them.
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Mystery Ranch Backpacks
(Bozeman, Montana) For the Common Climber Marketplace we interview Ryan Holm who is the Director of Marketing for the U.S./Montana-based backpack company Mystery Ranch. Mystery Ranch specializes in making backpacks (backpacks are all they make so they are pack experts) for numerous sports and the military, but they also have a line specifically made for climbing. Dana Gleason, the co-owner of Mystery Ranch, is a climber who gave birth to his original line called Kletterwerks (which later became Mystery Ranch), which included climbing and ski packs. |
Facebook Feature: Climbing Book Search and Find
Find the nearest climbing book you have and go to page 18 line 17. Share the cover and the sentence starting on that line on that page.
"While play acting a cowboy show called the Roy Rogers and Dale Evans show, Jim, the forceful personality of or troope, would always assume the star role of Roy." -- Dave Barnes
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Another photo was on that page..." Cameron Cross, Mr Mogote Vinales Cuba ~ 5.12" -- david Sweetland
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"No backtracking to find safety or altering course when you change your mind." -- Owen Sigal
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A photo was on page 18... -- Douglas Wolfe
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“In the months prior to the climb I had to front up to a lot of fears and self doubt.” -- Wendy Bruere
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"Riddiford and I pushed on ahead." -- Bill Donahue
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“‘An American climber was caught last spring trying to smuggle in three thousand watches, so now they’re suspicious of all Americans,’ Mike explained.” -- Michelle Johnson
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Another photo was on page 18. -- Tony Gonzales
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Page 18 is just crag notations, so the 17th listed climb is" "Tight Purple Satin Dress 25m 21 at the Asses Ears. Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb 93'."
-- Hanginout Earle
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"Overhang taking all precautions in the process." -- Gordon Guest-Smith
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""Une * ou **** etoiles en regard d'un intineraire signifie que celui-ci est..." Note:The introduction pages are in several languages. -- Mark Edwards
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"...climber Joe Herbst. Joe started climbing as a teenager back in the 1960s." -- Stefani Dawn
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