November Feature Photographer: Max Gordon
Dillion Soin on Skin to Skin, Nowra, NSW, Australia
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Max Gordon is a talented young climber and photographer who unexpectedly fell in love with photography. In his interview we asked how he balances climbing with photography and Max said,
"Balance isn’t a word I would have previously used to describe my climbing. Until this year, I had been utterly obsessed with spending every spare moment climbing in some fashion. This year, however, taking photos has created balance by providing goals outside of performance. Since taking photography seriously, I believe it has been 50/50 climbing/photography - a refreshing routine that has only been good for my climbing." Max hails from Nowra, New South Wales, Australia and works as a coach (and more) at a local climbing gym. He shares fabulous photos in and around New South Wales and Queensland, Australia, and also tells a quite entertaining story about a climb he and his friend did in New Zealand. |
Editorial
Welcome to the November 2020 edition of Common Climber! Wow do we have some cool stuff for you! Where to begin? How about with our upcoming Kickstarter Campaign to fund our first annual print Anthology!
Print Anthology Kickstarter!
(November 8 - 22, 2020 - return here to access the link!)
(November 8 - 22, 2020 - return here to access the link!)
We are starting a new and wonderful tradition! Once a year we are going to create and release a beautiful, oversized, full-color, glossy, sexy print Anthology that honors some of the best writings, photos, and artistry of our contributors. PLUS it contains wonderful new, unique photos and writings that you won't see online!
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Here is an example of a large, 2-page spread from our incredible Anthology Feature Photographer, Phillip Booth. We have numerous full-page and two-page photos in the Anthology, honoring the Common Climber photographic talent and giving you climbing eye-candy to enjoy!
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Why are we doing this?
Because Common Climber is about YOU. We want to honor every aspect of the Common Climber in a glorious way - both online and in print. There's something special about having your contributions in a high quality spread that can sit proudly on your coffee table. Or, offering a cool booklet that you can show your family and friends what climbing is really about. Or, bring it with you to read under a headlamp in the tent, getting you psyched for the climbing that awaits when you unzip that door.
Whether or not you are sharing your personal creative expression with Common Climber as a writer, photographer, or artist, we value your contribution to furthering the cause, be it by reading the articles, following along on social media, or spreading a good word. It all adds up and says we are proud to be a Common Climber!
So, when the Kickstarter begins on November 8, grab a copy of our print Anthology for yourself, as well as, a few for holiday stocking stuffers for your climbing crew (Yes! We will print and ship before December 15, 2020). We will also have some awesome, unique Common Climber rewards! And, for those who join in early, we will offer early bird pricing! We will also share special videos and messages with those who join in on the campaign and have inspirational stretch goals to see how far and wide we can spread the Common Climber love and vision!
JOIN US! Come back here for the link on November 8 at 8 a.m. (U.S. Pacific Time) or if you'd like a reminder fill out this RSVP Form!
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Thank you to our Anthology Sponsors!
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Australian Climbing Closures
If you have been watching the Australian climbing scene over the past year, there have been a series of climbing closures in the Grampians and now at Arapiles. For those who aren't familiar with what's happening, the closure of certain walls in Arapiles is akin to the closure of the Dawn Wall or The Nose in Yosemite in the U.S.
According to the organization Save Grampians Climbing:
Understandably, there are many climbers deeply mourning these losses. There is also anger at how some of these closures have occurred and some of the apparent flaws in the processes (like mis-identifying bird poop and natural calcium deposits/stains as climbing chalk, or ignoring non-climbing tourist damage at sites.) Australian climbers are working to find ways to strike a balance that honors both climbing and the cultural significance of these areas, while holding Parks Victoria accountable for using incorrect information to base decisions upon and potential biases against climbers in those decisions.
With that said, it is important to acknowledge that expressing the sadness over these climbing losses does not take away from also recognizing the losses the Aboriginals have experienced over hundreds of years (you may have seen the recent news of a mining company destroying a 46,000 year old Aboriginal site). Both the climbing and Aboriginal heartbreaks can be held simultaneously in our hearts and minds. By doing so, it is, ultimately, the way to move forward.
Climbers have been and are great partners with Native communities, often sharing more common goals with them than not. Teaming up to preserve public lands can be a significant, long-term, and mutually beneficial partnership (which, at least in the U.S., often has competing interests from far more destructive activities like mining and oil and gas extraction.)
If you care about these access issues, there are numerous ways to engage in and take positive action, from not climbing in closed areas or not using chalk (or using only colored chalk), to staying on trails and packing out all poop and trash, to supporting local organizations the are doing the negotiating work. In Australia, the Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Network (GWRN) is an excellent example of climbers coming together and working closely with Aboriginal Land Owners to find that common ground. On October 30, 2020 the GWRN released an update on the Taipan Wall Recreational Use Assessments and here are a few take-home messages from them:
According to the organization Save Grampians Climbing:
- Over 4556 routes have now been shut down
- Half of Grampians climbing routes are now closed
- Tiger Wall, Castle Crag, Fang Buttress and Black Ians Rocks in Arapiles are latest areas to close to all visitors
Understandably, there are many climbers deeply mourning these losses. There is also anger at how some of these closures have occurred and some of the apparent flaws in the processes (like mis-identifying bird poop and natural calcium deposits/stains as climbing chalk, or ignoring non-climbing tourist damage at sites.) Australian climbers are working to find ways to strike a balance that honors both climbing and the cultural significance of these areas, while holding Parks Victoria accountable for using incorrect information to base decisions upon and potential biases against climbers in those decisions.
With that said, it is important to acknowledge that expressing the sadness over these climbing losses does not take away from also recognizing the losses the Aboriginals have experienced over hundreds of years (you may have seen the recent news of a mining company destroying a 46,000 year old Aboriginal site). Both the climbing and Aboriginal heartbreaks can be held simultaneously in our hearts and minds. By doing so, it is, ultimately, the way to move forward.
Climbers have been and are great partners with Native communities, often sharing more common goals with them than not. Teaming up to preserve public lands can be a significant, long-term, and mutually beneficial partnership (which, at least in the U.S., often has competing interests from far more destructive activities like mining and oil and gas extraction.)
If you care about these access issues, there are numerous ways to engage in and take positive action, from not climbing in closed areas or not using chalk (or using only colored chalk), to staying on trails and packing out all poop and trash, to supporting local organizations the are doing the negotiating work. In Australia, the Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Network (GWRN) is an excellent example of climbers coming together and working closely with Aboriginal Land Owners to find that common ground. On October 30, 2020 the GWRN released an update on the Taipan Wall Recreational Use Assessments and here are a few take-home messages from them:
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Our Common Climber hearts go out to our friends in Australia who are struggling with the deep disappointments and frustrations related to these closures. You have good reason to mourn. If you wish to reminisce, in this edition we share with you Keith Bell's poem Sojourn at Duyuritte, where he reflects upon the many explorations he has made to Arapales - known as Duyurrite to the Aboriginals.
Dave Barnes' Climbing Trip to Mars
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Now we take you from Australia to...Mars! And, we have a Common Climber exclusive for you!
Common Climber's own Assistant Editor Dave Barnes is taking climbing where it's never gone before - Mars. He has combined climbing writing and science fiction in what I would venture to say is a first-of-its-kind novel... and Common Climber is excited to be the first to share a prologue from this novel with you. Check out the Common Climber action shot cover by the talented Karmelo Onate. Karmelo also created the cover of Dave's book, which you can see when you visit the Prologue. Dave is in the process of raising funds to print his 300-page, nearly complete novel, and if you dig what he's doing and think climbing should enter the world of sci-fi in a quality manner, then you can throw some support his way! The Edition
Last but not least, we have a full edition this month with a fun variety of stories! (NOTE: We will not have a December edition because our December edition is the print Anthology!)
In this November 2020 edition, we have interviews with a rope-rug artist, one of the co-founders of ButoraUSA, and a climbing dietitian. We also have a fun mini-epic in paradise and two articles on the mental game in climbing: Fear, Pride, and Exploration and A Climb Worth Fighting For. |
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Enjoy!
-- Stefani Dawn
-- Stefani Dawn
A Special Tribute to Arapiles
Tiger Wall and Castle Crag at Arapiles. Photo credit: Simon Carter, Onsight Photography
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Sojourn at Dyurrite
(by Keith Bell) Every climber has a place they hold dear to their heart, where the memories always remain fresh, and friends become family. Savor Keith Bell's poetic tribute to one of the most special climbing areas in Australia. |
Interviews
ARTIST
Laura Vallo - Acrylic and Rope Rug Artist Laura Vallo is all things landscape - landscape architect, landscape artist, and climber. She has turned her artistry, her love of climbing, and post-surgery down-time into amazing custom landscape rope art. See her work and read her interview. |
MARKETPLACE
Butora Climbing Shoes - Interview with Co-Owner Tyler McPherson Tyler McPherson is a co-founder and co-owner of ButoraUSA/HMH Outdoors. He shares Butora's interesting history, philosophy, and connections with Korea, as well as, what makes Butora climbing shoes unique. |
CC PROFILE
Nutrition for Climbers - Interview with Marisa Michael Climbing dietitian Marisa Michael shares how climbing nutrition needs to vary between types of climbers (bouldering versus trad, for example), common nutrition mistakes climbers make, and more. |
Stories
Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
(By Saxon Johns) The steep limestone walls protrude from the lush Thai jungle, beckoning to be climbed. Just don't forget your headlamp. |
Fear, Pride, and Exploration
(by Tony Ferrar) So much of climbing is mental - it's how we frame our experience. Tony Ferrar takes us on a journey of progression in climbing moving from fear to pride to exploration. |
A Climb Worth Fighting For
(by Michael Sirianni) A Climb Worth Fighting For... "It’s a sense of self-confidence that can only be earned through this personal journey, told by the movements on the wall, or a problem that roadblocks our life...." This is a tale of the personal journey, we as climbers can understand. |