Cover Photo: James Crump working out where to put the last bolt on Biko Roof (Photo Credit: James Crump Collection)
Disclaimer: Portions of this narrative have been fabricated to protect vital national security tactics and personnel. Or that is what I am going to say if anyone asks. My answer will always be that they are the best and I love them like brothers.
|
My marriage collapsed and my doctorate grant had run out. I ended up in the Chihuahuan Desert of West Texas in my battered thrice-wrecked and rebuilt Datsun pickup with Shabock, my trusty dog and companion.
I was out at Hueco Tanks, a State Historical Park, scam-camping out up a dirt road east of Pete’s place - a rustic old store and climber dive on the way to Hueco. I had been living out of my truck with Shabock. It had an old aluminum camper shell I was given by Warren, Enchanted Rock’s park Superintendent. It seems that divorce and love-lost has consequences. For me, I didn’t seem to see stop signs or signals changing. So, my drivers license was suspended. I ran away - out to one of my safe places, Hueco Tanks, an oasis in the Texas desert, a gift from the Gods. I spent my days bouldering and climbing with visiting climbers, and hanging with my long-time climbing partner Dave Head. |
Shabock next to the author's old Datsun pick-up camping in the Chuhuahuan Desert of West Texas. (Photo Credit: James Crump)
|
Above: Click on the photos to enlarge and see captions. (Photo Credit: James Crump Collection)
|
|
Dave had a 90-pound Doberman named Tex, who barely got along with Shabock, my 75-pound shepherd-golden-chow mutt. They would sniff and bump and growl in an attempt to show the other who is boss.
I was proud and horrified as Shabock took Tex down in one of their encounters. Dave and I both jumped for our dogs to avoid an expensive vet bill and bad feelings. Shabock was not only the boss in that showdown with Tex, he also climbed rocks, chased bears, rode on my bike with me, sailed on my Catamaran, and was a boss guide dog!
I was proud and horrified as Shabock took Tex down in one of their encounters. Dave and I both jumped for our dogs to avoid an expensive vet bill and bad feelings. Shabock was not only the boss in that showdown with Tex, he also climbed rocks, chased bears, rode on my bike with me, sailed on my Catamaran, and was a boss guide dog!
When I was guiding out at Enchanted Rock, I could tell clients to follow my dog to show them where the class was. Of course, Shabock would introduce himself by sniffing each of them and marking a nearby tree or rock. You know, dogs.
Shabock was so smart that over a 6-day course he was able to guide people to the specific wall where they needed to be. After smelling them for a couple of days and learning whether they were intermediate or advanced, he knew where to lead them for the subsequent day's climbs. Incredibly, he got it right every time. This allowed me to focus on the other students who were learning that they needed both a right and left boot, which foot went into which leg loop, they needed to carry water, and that Machetes were not needed to get to the wall.
Having a “Guide Dog” was a good thing!
Shabock was so smart that over a 6-day course he was able to guide people to the specific wall where they needed to be. After smelling them for a couple of days and learning whether they were intermediate or advanced, he knew where to lead them for the subsequent day's climbs. Incredibly, he got it right every time. This allowed me to focus on the other students who were learning that they needed both a right and left boot, which foot went into which leg loop, they needed to carry water, and that Machetes were not needed to get to the wall.
Having a “Guide Dog” was a good thing!
|
With the Tex-Shabock tensions, Shabock and I spent most of our time out in the desert free camping.
I was getting into Hueco on my annual Texas Park and Wildlife park entry pass which covered entry but not Hueco camp sites. I had my dirt-road truck camping sites wired and was living immersed in the Chihuahuan Desert, and climbing in the Tanks. I was meeting folks, finding new and old friends to climb with. Weekends were spent climbing and hanging with Dave and the El Paso climbing hive. One morning, while sitting on my tailgate out in the free desert brewing my morning coffee, Shabock lights up with warning barks and returns to my side. Danger! Danger was coming! A U.S. army Humvee popped over the ridge and a soldier with binoculars steps out, scans, and then points at me. Before I could set down my coffee cup and grab Shabock, my camp was surrounded by three Humvees, in full battle rattle. When the dust cleared, one of the soldiers stepped out and asked, “You James Crump?” In my stunned state, my initial response was, “Who the hell wants to know?” My brain scanned through my long list of misdemeanors, from traffic wrecks, to buying a mountain bike using a credit card issued to Shabock with a $2000 credit limit, to my possession of marijuana - none of which would cause an army response. I was stunned! Top Sergeant Franco’s smile calmed my stressed nerves. I also calmed Shabock who was ready to kill in my defense. He was a good dog. Top Sergeant Franco, or Top, as he was called, said that he had talked to the rangers out at Hueco about who was the best guide. The rangers named me and and told them where I was camped. |
The author on "Creatures of the New Left" during the first ascent. Hueco Tanks, Texas. (Photo Credit: James Crump Collection)
|
I now found myself under a government contract to teach a U.S. Army 5th Group A Detachment of the Special Forces - you know, the Green Berets - a group of very interesting men with unique skills and the stories to tell - enthralling adventures worthy of Tom Clancy. Now, I am asked to play? Hell yeah Captain! Lock and Load!
At this time, Hueco was in a bit of an uproar due to Todd Skinner’s euro invasion. There was blatant sport bolting (i.e. bolting close together) and fence hopping with complete disregard for the park’s historical sensitivities.
The Texas Parks and Wildlife was on edge and trouble was on the horizon. Bolt placement (a permanent climbing anchor placed by drilling a hole in the rock) was banned by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department and was a $500 per bolt finable event.
My buddies, the Trad Faction, and I had placed probably a 100+ bolts over the years operating completely under the park Ranger's radar. Bolts were a complete necessity to climb Hueco Routes, but we hid our bolts and minimized the number, prizing bold ascents versus bolt-to-bolt sport clip-ups. Todd’s mob were only looking for that next great magazine cover route and unfortunately, Hueco had those hard, photogenic routes.
At this time, Hueco was in a bit of an uproar due to Todd Skinner’s euro invasion. There was blatant sport bolting (i.e. bolting close together) and fence hopping with complete disregard for the park’s historical sensitivities.
The Texas Parks and Wildlife was on edge and trouble was on the horizon. Bolt placement (a permanent climbing anchor placed by drilling a hole in the rock) was banned by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department and was a $500 per bolt finable event.
My buddies, the Trad Faction, and I had placed probably a 100+ bolts over the years operating completely under the park Ranger's radar. Bolts were a complete necessity to climb Hueco Routes, but we hid our bolts and minimized the number, prizing bold ascents versus bolt-to-bolt sport clip-ups. Todd’s mob were only looking for that next great magazine cover route and unfortunately, Hueco had those hard, photogenic routes.
Todd was suffering from the "Tortilla Syndrome" - living off of getting your photo in the mags, product sponsorship, and the need for a cover shot. It is hand-to-mouth, hard economics life: beans, rice, and tortillas were cheap. When those rations held, Todd’s ethics and restraint weakened. Todd had recently found the next guaranteed cover shot, a severely overhanging route on the Sandmaster Boulder called "Lost to the Future."
+++
The 5th Group Operators A-Detachment and I settled on a three week contract with twelve days of guiding. Wednesday and weekends were off, with teaching and training in two-day chunks. This suited me fine as the contract was very lucrative and my wallet was very thin. Shabock liked it too after making friends with the whole A-Detachment.
Our first day started a little slow with some ground school, where I was focused on moving a whole team up a mountain. We developed the rope strategy to go along with a pyramid, where everyone was connected in a stack. That was a logistical, rope management nightmare for a team of twelve. The soldiers complied but were bored with my lecture.
They had done Outward Bound and other climbing training, and had a low tolerance for granola-heads. My focus in training them was the concept of how to move the A-Detachment from a stealth insertion, to the top of a vertical geologic feature to secure the high ground.
We did the pyramid walk through on the Hueco Dam, and I sensed their bored grumbling. So, I took them to the tower at the end of the dam on West Mountain, below the climb Yalabian Dogfight.
I soloed the 5.8 crack with a bunch of ropes on my back and set three top rope anchors above the climbs on Dam Rock.
Our first day started a little slow with some ground school, where I was focused on moving a whole team up a mountain. We developed the rope strategy to go along with a pyramid, where everyone was connected in a stack. That was a logistical, rope management nightmare for a team of twelve. The soldiers complied but were bored with my lecture.
They had done Outward Bound and other climbing training, and had a low tolerance for granola-heads. My focus in training them was the concept of how to move the A-Detachment from a stealth insertion, to the top of a vertical geologic feature to secure the high ground.
We did the pyramid walk through on the Hueco Dam, and I sensed their bored grumbling. So, I took them to the tower at the end of the dam on West Mountain, below the climb Yalabian Dogfight.
I soloed the 5.8 crack with a bunch of ropes on my back and set three top rope anchors above the climbs on Dam Rock.
My solo had settled the team as to my climbing credentials, and then the real teaching began. After breaking them into three teams and sorting the belay requirements, I soloed up about 25 feet to a big hueco and started coaching climbing, in real time, teaching hand and foot work, dodging flying bodies as they fell, and streaming a constant dialog of climbing beta.
The afternoon was exhilarating as these elite warriors were engaging in the challenge.
The afternoon was exhilarating as these elite warriors were engaging in the challenge.
Author James Crump on "Biko Roof" in Hueco Tanks, Texas. (Photo Credit: James Crump Collection)
|
|
That evening, sitting around their campfire in a Hueco campsite, which featured a Deuce-and-a-Half tactical cargo truck, we discussed scenarios and tactics. What does the A-Detachment need to accomplish? High ground over watch? Downed pilot rescue? Sniper? Mountain assault - like that in the movie the Devils Brigade? It was clear we needed to develop a team, multi pitch strategy, and shape our training towards building that skill set - to silently move a 12-man team to a high promontory.
The campfire and beer built a camaraderie as we talked scenarios. Stories began to flow.
I decided on Uriah’s Heap as the next day's challenge, along with the pyramid stack rope strategy. I lead with double ropes and brought up two soldiers to belay the next group. One belayed me, while I lead the next pitch off the rock tower and onto the face, while the other belayed the next two, each trailing two ropes or the next group.
After reaching the top of pitch two, I set up to belay the next set up teams. As you could guess, rope management was rapidly becoming an issue as two became four and four became eight. Tangles and tempers flared. It was very clear to me that the rope pyramid was not a viable way to stealthily move men and mission gear.
I agreed to meet them Wednesday evening at their campsite to discuss tactics.
In the meantime, Hueco’s bolting issues flared.
Two of Todd’s Euro-gang had bolted, a Bob Murray (aka. "Arizona Flash") boulder problem in the Dragons Den. Plus the Texas Park and Wildlife rangers found significant natural resource impacts at the base of one of Todd’s projects on West Mountain. The park rangers reacted hard and closed Hueco to climbing.
I communicated the issue to Top. He responded by contacting his chain of command, and a Colonel’s call to the governor of Texas’s office led to a specific permission for me and my guides to be allowed to carry ropes, climb, and guide during the moratorium.
The campfire and beer built a camaraderie as we talked scenarios. Stories began to flow.
I decided on Uriah’s Heap as the next day's challenge, along with the pyramid stack rope strategy. I lead with double ropes and brought up two soldiers to belay the next group. One belayed me, while I lead the next pitch off the rock tower and onto the face, while the other belayed the next two, each trailing two ropes or the next group.
After reaching the top of pitch two, I set up to belay the next set up teams. As you could guess, rope management was rapidly becoming an issue as two became four and four became eight. Tangles and tempers flared. It was very clear to me that the rope pyramid was not a viable way to stealthily move men and mission gear.
I agreed to meet them Wednesday evening at their campsite to discuss tactics.
In the meantime, Hueco’s bolting issues flared.
Two of Todd’s Euro-gang had bolted, a Bob Murray (aka. "Arizona Flash") boulder problem in the Dragons Den. Plus the Texas Park and Wildlife rangers found significant natural resource impacts at the base of one of Todd’s projects on West Mountain. The park rangers reacted hard and closed Hueco to climbing.
I communicated the issue to Top. He responded by contacting his chain of command, and a Colonel’s call to the governor of Texas’s office led to a specific permission for me and my guides to be allowed to carry ropes, climb, and guide during the moratorium.
|
During that Wednesday night tactical discussion, I proposed the concept of Flying Wings, breaking the group down into roped parties of three. They needed to identify four leaders to lead the wings, and then follow my lead where I set all the pro.
Each wing would be independent with only two ropes, but their leaders would have to be able to lead the pitch clipping the anchors I placed for them. It required a lot of trust and confidence. But these were elite special forces warriors, they were up to field-testing the tactic. Discussions refined the Wings concept, including gear management. With 4 wings climbing simultaneously, as a leader I was required to protect 4+ pitches and belays, my gear rack would run out - so, what would be my gear resupply strategy? And, how would the gear load be carried by my two wing men, restocking me for the next pitch? We also needed a plan for how the cleaned gear be passed forward to restock my wingmen. This approach also meant choosing who would be my wingmen, and who would be leading wings 2, 3, and 4? Our curriculum now focused on building these wings. Thursday morning saw us as the only roped climbing party allowed in the park. I chose to repeat Uriah’s Heap, but using the Flying Wing tactic this time and to do it as quietly as possible - hand signs, rope signals, stealth. On the ground, as we organized the wings, the leaders were asking to have some pieces of protection of their own - to bolster their confidence and add to the pieces I set, just in case. I thinned down my rack to only the pieces and gear I needed for the multipitch lead and belays, as I knew the route, and what I was going to use. I dug through the rest of my gear stash and passed out all of the pieces I was not going to use on my lead. It’s amazing what a handful of wires and an old Tricam will do for a new Wing Leader's confidence. |
Author James Crump on "Groinuflex" in Hueco Tanks, Texas. (Photo Credit: James Crump Collection)
|
I spoke to the team, criticizing the previous ascent for being loud and a clusterfuck! They all agreed and embraced the Wings plan. I set off and lead the route, protecting the whole three-pitch climb for the Wings. It went like clockwork - quiet and fast, with the last two soldiers cleaning the route.
That evening during our campfire planning session, meal, and beer, I felt that what the team needed next was to work on their climbing and protection skills while on toprope. Friday's agenda took us to West Mountain, Secret Sharer, Creatures of the New Left, and Lost Canyon. I set up topropes, along with a gear/protection luncheon.
That evening during our campfire planning session, meal, and beer, I felt that what the team needed next was to work on their climbing and protection skills while on toprope. Friday's agenda took us to West Mountain, Secret Sharer, Creatures of the New Left, and Lost Canyon. I set up topropes, along with a gear/protection luncheon.
|
At the end of the day, we closed with an end-of-week review, and the team invited me and Shabock into town for dinner. Apparently they had a safe house and a few lady friends. The ladies were more "Mothers" of the team than dating the men, they never really explained it, but I sensed widowhood and years-long friendships. We grilled burgers and had full ice chests.
Shabock and I crashed in my camper in the driveway. In the morning, over a hearty breakfast, the Captain, Chief, and Top had a long discussion on combat scenarios where climbing skills could make a difference. They discussed tactics, logistics, big walls, buildings, and how to do it silently and not be seen. They asked, how could we game a scenario and execute it in our current setting of Hueco Tanks? I suggested the Organ Mountains, an area located outside of Las Cruces, New Mexico that might be similar to locations they'd conduct operations. It was important for them to understand different rock types and skills and gear that were required. As we sat on the patio of the safe house, a couple of the Sergeants had checked into Fort Bliss and traded their two-and-a-Half-Ton Truck Duce, for a 15-person van. They wanted to talk about evening plans - which included some country and western bars they wanted to take me to. Top asked if I had ever been clubbing in east El Paso? Being a climbing bum and traveling with a dogbuddy, I had not sampled El Paso’s night life. I should have been warned by the smile on Rico’s face, one of my Wing Leaders, they had plans for me! So, it was Saturday night in east El Paso; Shabock was hanging at the safe house with the ladies, and I rode shotgun in a van filled with my own A-Detachment, heading out on the town. Am I safe or what? |
Author James Crump on the first ascent of "Creatures of the New Left" at Hueco Tanks, Texas. (Photo Credit: James Crump Collection)
|
Sargent Huck drove, and there was a furious discussion about what club to go to first. It’s all a blur to me as the day had started early, with beer flowing and our day-long combat climbing tactics draining the brain.
Huck and Top decided on this huge country and western club with live bands and a big dance floor. I should have picked up a clue when I was escorted into the club flanked and surrounded by lethal special forces operators.
Without any fuss we were given a table in a VIP area and we commenced on partying and enjoying the music. The women were plenty and very curious about me and my obvious protection entourage.
I was sitting with Rico, who was a Tech Sergeant and my wingman and belayer in our training. He explained that Huck, who was a big Airborne Ranger and bull rider, and a couple of the other sergeants, were hoping to use me to stir some shit with the ladies, as there is nothing they liked more than beating up wannabe cowboys on a Saturday night!
Their plan was to get me very drunk - it was working. They talked me into going up to the prettiest girl in the club and ask her to dance - in front of her obvious boyfriend! She was amazingly polite and graceful as she humorously declined my invitation, laughing, “What are you? A Colombian druglord?”
Her boyfriend glared at me with evil eyes, all his friends on edge, but not biting.
It seems that this game has been played before. El Paso is not only a military town, but a bordertown too. If we played this same game today it would have ended in gun fire instead of the friendly fisticuffs that my team was looking for.
We went to two more clubs as our party continued. It was all a blur, but I actually had a good time and danced with some very pretty ladies. And, fortunately, the need for the full-on security detail never materialized - despite the A-Detachment's best attempts to use me as bait.
Huck and Top decided on this huge country and western club with live bands and a big dance floor. I should have picked up a clue when I was escorted into the club flanked and surrounded by lethal special forces operators.
Without any fuss we were given a table in a VIP area and we commenced on partying and enjoying the music. The women were plenty and very curious about me and my obvious protection entourage.
I was sitting with Rico, who was a Tech Sergeant and my wingman and belayer in our training. He explained that Huck, who was a big Airborne Ranger and bull rider, and a couple of the other sergeants, were hoping to use me to stir some shit with the ladies, as there is nothing they liked more than beating up wannabe cowboys on a Saturday night!
Their plan was to get me very drunk - it was working. They talked me into going up to the prettiest girl in the club and ask her to dance - in front of her obvious boyfriend! She was amazingly polite and graceful as she humorously declined my invitation, laughing, “What are you? A Colombian druglord?”
Her boyfriend glared at me with evil eyes, all his friends on edge, but not biting.
It seems that this game has been played before. El Paso is not only a military town, but a bordertown too. If we played this same game today it would have ended in gun fire instead of the friendly fisticuffs that my team was looking for.
We went to two more clubs as our party continued. It was all a blur, but I actually had a good time and danced with some very pretty ladies. And, fortunately, the need for the full-on security detail never materialized - despite the A-Detachment's best attempts to use me as bait.
|
Sunday morning, after a recovery breakfast, Shabock and I headed back out to the desert to develop plans for Monday.
I wanted to grow their climbing skills and I thought the Pigs in Space Buttress was perfect for my purpose. I lead Pigs to Pork and set up a package of topropes. I also had another gear class where everyone got to lead and place gear in the Classic Corner route. Rico, Top, and Chief all took a stab at leading Pigs to Pork. It was a good day. That night while discussing what to do next, the team expressed a desire to do Uriah’s Heap again, but with them leading and protecting the route. It was time for me to take a back seat and let the team be the team. My two wing men swung pitches, doing the rigging, and the whole A-Detachment climbed in near silence as I soloed behind them. It showed how far we had come, and pushed me to find the next training challenge. It was clear that these were elite athletes and they were becoming accomplished climbers. It was also clear that we had some developing Wing Leaders, so I figured we would focus on them leading and the wings each doing routes as independent three-man parties. In this program, I found myself soloing a bunch of pitches to join the parties, but not take away from the leading experience. Next we went to West Mountain and did Yalabian Dogfight and had a real party on Surprising Sheep. I soloed Abortion Stories and set a topropes on Texas Radio Pazuzu and Rites of Pazuzu for an end-of-day party and hueco time. |
James Crump on "Rights of Pazuzu" where he set up a top rope for the A-Detachment. (Photo Credit: James Crump Collection)
|
For the end-of-week program, I focused on rock skill and protection, using a bouldering tour of the Dragons Den and the Dark Forrest. Bouldering and experimenting with the whole rack of gear was a useful schooling.
The team was also beginning to groove on the Hueco Tanks vibe and Friday we toured the East Spur and the Sun Terraces on West Mountain. We got a lot of rock time. By the end of the week the hands were really rough and the Hueco skin wounds needed some healing.
I was invited back to the safe house and spent the weekend with a nice pool, barbecued burgers, and beer - and another outing to the country and western bars where they again did simulated executive protection drills. It was really fun - and yes, I suck as a dancer.
With a last four days of guiding and training, we focused specifically on a couple of mission senecios, did mission planning, and execution. It was a bit of a relief from the hard climbing program I had been leading them through. We discussed a phase-two training program. I suggested a covert ascent of Uriah’s Heap at night, and an ascent of Sugarloaf in the Organ Mountains. Both scenarios were enthusiastically embraced.
The team was also beginning to groove on the Hueco Tanks vibe and Friday we toured the East Spur and the Sun Terraces on West Mountain. We got a lot of rock time. By the end of the week the hands were really rough and the Hueco skin wounds needed some healing.
I was invited back to the safe house and spent the weekend with a nice pool, barbecued burgers, and beer - and another outing to the country and western bars where they again did simulated executive protection drills. It was really fun - and yes, I suck as a dancer.
With a last four days of guiding and training, we focused specifically on a couple of mission senecios, did mission planning, and execution. It was a bit of a relief from the hard climbing program I had been leading them through. We discussed a phase-two training program. I suggested a covert ascent of Uriah’s Heap at night, and an ascent of Sugarloaf in the Organ Mountains. Both scenarios were enthusiastically embraced.
We wound up the week with a Round Room party. It was a real high note showing how much skill and joy of climbing the team had gained. We left with an agreement to do another program in the fall.
I now returned to my life as a dirtbag, but with special access to Hueco for me and my local hive of climbers. My Governor's special permission to carry a rope and climb at Hueco was warmly embraced by the park rangers and was extended to my partners - so I became very popular.
I also had a few confrontations with Todd Skinner and his gang, which was hard for me as I considered Todd as a friend. He had stayed at my house, guided for me at Enchanted Rock, and told the absolute best stories.
The Todd confrontation peaked with a very public debate in Pete’s Parking Lot. I challenged Todd about how he was willing to risk all of our climbing access to Hueco. His response was, “I am the future of American Climbing!”
I now returned to my life as a dirtbag, but with special access to Hueco for me and my local hive of climbers. My Governor's special permission to carry a rope and climb at Hueco was warmly embraced by the park rangers and was extended to my partners - so I became very popular.
I also had a few confrontations with Todd Skinner and his gang, which was hard for me as I considered Todd as a friend. He had stayed at my house, guided for me at Enchanted Rock, and told the absolute best stories.
The Todd confrontation peaked with a very public debate in Pete’s Parking Lot. I challenged Todd about how he was willing to risk all of our climbing access to Hueco. His response was, “I am the future of American Climbing!”
|
The Hueco spring continued with David Head and myself working with Texas Parks and Wildlife to get the ban lifted. Todd left for his next adventures allowing things to cool down as the season warmed.
I was debating about staying. I had some date action with a beautiful lady, who formerly hosted Good Morning El Paso. I had picked her up at a Grocery store near Dave’s, with the humorous help of her kids. But, I also had a girlfriend waiting up in Boulder and the clarion call of Eldorado Canyon and the Colorado front range was calling. It was amazing to have a boy and girl come up to me in the store and tell me that their mom thinks I am hot… followed by a wild weekend in Ruidoso. But I needed to go and she was not happy that I was heading north. I pointed my battered truck north with Shabock to stay with Cheryl, a hot graphic artist that I had a long distance romance ever since meeting her on the Pearl Street Mall after my post-divorce trip to the Wind Rivers with Dave. I had spied this cute blond on a bicycle and followed her into a book store, only to get a smile from her as she walked out. I followed her and as she was unlocking her bike I said, “I cant believe you are going to ride away before I have a chance to think up a great line to ask you out!” She smiled and said, “Well what's this great line?” I stuttered and blurted, “Would you like to go Rock Climbing?” She laughed and countered with, “Would you like to go to the County Fair?” I of course agreed as she was endearingly cute with a lively smile. We made a date for the next evening and Dave and I headed to our secret scam camp for the night. Scam camping around Boulder was even a challenge back then, but it was an art which Dave and I were masters. |
Dave Head on "Optical Promise" in Hueco Tanks, Texas (Photo Credit: James Crump)
|
The next day we did Werks Up to Outer-Space on the Bastille in Eldorado Canyon. Then we worked our shower scam at the University of Colorado - parking illegally and showering in the faculty gym, where Dave and I posed as visiting faculty from Texas. I am still horrified by the number of my unpaid parking tickets.
Dave dropped me off at Cheryl’s cute little house/duplex on east Canyon and I presented myself wearing my cleanest t-shirt, shorts, and Tevas. We got into her hot 260 Z sports car and drove to the Boulder County Fair.
I had no idea what to expect, but Cheryl explained that she was an Indiana farm girl and wanted to see the animals. As we looked at the goats and the sheep, we found out about each other. It turns out that Cheryl was a former cheerleader from Purdue and was coming out of a long-failed relationship, as I shared about my divorce, climbing, and car wrecks.
Dave dropped me off at Cheryl’s cute little house/duplex on east Canyon and I presented myself wearing my cleanest t-shirt, shorts, and Tevas. We got into her hot 260 Z sports car and drove to the Boulder County Fair.
I had no idea what to expect, but Cheryl explained that she was an Indiana farm girl and wanted to see the animals. As we looked at the goats and the sheep, we found out about each other. It turns out that Cheryl was a former cheerleader from Purdue and was coming out of a long-failed relationship, as I shared about my divorce, climbing, and car wrecks.
|
We watched the rodeo action and soon became romantic, by the time we headed back to her place we were consumed by the liquid happiness of desire.
She had visited me at Hueco for a long weekend, so I had a strong want to head to Boulder in the next phase of my post-divorce diaspora. By this time Shabock’s credit card had been maxed out. It was perfect timing when my Net 30 invoice for the Special Forces was paid and I had enough money to buy a used Mac computer and head for Colorado. During my time at Hueco, Dave and I had worked on a revision and second edition to our original Indian Heights Guide to Hueco. Armed with the Mac, I had the tools to write the revisions and that was my short-term work plan. I had also written a story which I sold to Rock and Ice called "Hueco Spirits." |
Cheryl on the island of Elba in Italy (Photo Credit: James Crump Collection)
|
Cheryl and I had a magical reunion and were deepening our relationship. She set me up with a small studio off of Pearl Street next to her graphic arts studio and also connected me with her business partner's husband Chuck, who was doing construction. I needed an income and had construction experience, ranging from digging swimming pools to doing cornice carpentry. Chuck and I became a two-man team and built a house on the west end of Pearl Street for an architect.
Everything looked like it was becoming a sustainable life, until a late-night call and the news that Cheryl’s father had died. Suddenly the world changed. Cheryl left for Florida and never returned to Boulder.
I now needed to find a new place to live and ended up sharing a basement duplex with Bill Boardman, a climbing friend from Austin. I continued to work on the house with Chuck. I also picked up some private guiding via word of mouth.
It was also very interesting that several of my clients were ladies and wanted more than climbing instruction. It was becoming a truism that you rock climb for money and the chicks are free!
Everything looked like it was becoming a sustainable life, until a late-night call and the news that Cheryl’s father had died. Suddenly the world changed. Cheryl left for Florida and never returned to Boulder.
I now needed to find a new place to live and ended up sharing a basement duplex with Bill Boardman, a climbing friend from Austin. I continued to work on the house with Chuck. I also picked up some private guiding via word of mouth.
It was also very interesting that several of my clients were ladies and wanted more than climbing instruction. It was becoming a truism that you rock climb for money and the chicks are free!
|
My fitness training regimen was a lot of cycling and climbing the switchbacks of Flagstaff and Lefthand Canyon to the peak-to-peak and descent of Boulder Canyon.
My rock time and hammer swing time were causing elbow and shoulder issues and I needed a break. After finishing the house with Chuck, I got a sub-contract to do the roof. It was way off the deck and had a steep roofline. I used ropes, jumars, and climbing boots and was paid well. With Cheryl staying in Florida with her family, I decided to return to Texas. It was convenient that my folks were planning to spend six months in England, living at our ancestral home in Herefordshire. So, I had my family home in Austin to house sit. I found that I had a great Austin family of climbers to return to to tide me over until the second contract with the A-Detachment came to fruition. |
James Crump, ready for Desert Special Forces Adventures, Part 2.
|
This new A-Detachment adventure was going be in the Organ Mountains, above White Sands, New Mexico, and also return to Hueco Tanks - I was getting excited!
Stay tuned for part two where you get climbing, Texaco Chemical night ops, helicopters, night vision, and other cool stuff!
Stay tuned for part two where you get climbing, Texaco Chemical night ops, helicopters, night vision, and other cool stuff!