I used to avoid chimneys like the plague. If a route description said chimney, I’d move on to find a different route. Here’s why:
Despite my aversion to chimneys, with trad multipitch climbing, avoiding chimneys can only occur for so long - ultimately there comes a time to embrace the funk. And embracing the funk I am doing...because, I decided to do this “thing” with my husband called THE WTF 5.7 TOUR: RED ROCK CANYON. In order to complete this foray, I now HAVE to climb chimneys – and lots of them.
In a way, there is something to be said for “forcing” yourself to do what you otherwise would avoid. Unsurprsingly, I have discovered that not all chimneys suck, and some can actually be quite fun. Although I do still find myself rolling my eyes and saying “there’s a fucking chimney” when reading an upcoming climb description, I can remind myself, with all honesty, “It might be a fun fucking chimney.”
- Chimneys are dirty. When it rains every single piece of dirt, rock, and loose vegetation above travels with a stream of water down through this chute. But, because there is lots of other crud in the chimney from previous rains, this crud accumulates. Holds are crusty, sand or dirt is everywhere, as are loose rocks, both large and small.
- Chimneys make nice homes – for critters. For the most part, chimneys offer protection from the elements. They remain shady and cool in the heat; They block wind; Their accumulation of dirt and rocks create places for plants to take root, which in turn brings critters – their poop and their offspring. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve mantled onto a pile of excrement in a chimney or seen a nest full of 20 baby spiders running around.
- Chimneys can be challenging to protect. If you read through a guidebook, a common phrase is “climb the unprotectable chimney” – uh, no thanks. Are there chimneys with cracks where protection can be placed? Of course, and I’m always appreciative when those present themselves. But a good portion of the time I also have to get creative – slinging a "hope that's wedged in there" chockstone, inserting a tricam into a little odd shaped hole, doubling up on tiny nuts, or running it out in the hopes for that promising-looking feature above.
- Chimneys are rarely “straight forward.” No two chimneys are the same and no two chimneys demand a singular move or technique. Yes, we have a climbing move called “chimneying,” where we place our back against one wall and feet against the other then wedge our way up (or some variation on that theme) and yes, that move is unique to chimneys. However, I probably end up using “chimneying” about 10% of the time. Chimneys demand creativity in movement, often within a span of about 20-30 feet, going from face climbing, then stemming, then creatively working around a bulge, then chimneying into some awkward transition, then followed by squeezing through a tight constriction (sometimes having to remove gear or a backpack). The terrain can be quite vertical or low angled; The chimney can be large or little more than an off-width; Nothing is "standard."
- Decking and/or ping-ponging potential is prevalent. Falling in a chimney is not clean. Even if you are on a steep section face climbing, the fact that you have a wall behind you, means you will likely hit it in a fall. Most chimneys also have huge stuck boulders, ledges, and odd shaped protrusions of rock – plenty to hit on your way down. Falling in a chimney is not really an option.
Despite my aversion to chimneys, with trad multipitch climbing, avoiding chimneys can only occur for so long - ultimately there comes a time to embrace the funk. And embracing the funk I am doing...because, I decided to do this “thing” with my husband called THE WTF 5.7 TOUR: RED ROCK CANYON. In order to complete this foray, I now HAVE to climb chimneys – and lots of them.
In a way, there is something to be said for “forcing” yourself to do what you otherwise would avoid. Unsurprsingly, I have discovered that not all chimneys suck, and some can actually be quite fun. Although I do still find myself rolling my eyes and saying “there’s a fucking chimney” when reading an upcoming climb description, I can remind myself, with all honesty, “It might be a fun fucking chimney.”