This article is an extended version of a joint publication with the Australian/New Zealand print climbing magazine Vertical Life. It was published in the Winter 2022 edition 39.
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An old man shoulders a pack up the steep rise to Coolum Cave in Southeast Queensland. The air is thick and storm clouds gather in from the west. Climbers at the cave know that lightning is approaching and it has a name, Ian Elliot.
Ian is a shining beacon to local climbers who respect his dedication to Coolum Cave and with good reason. This year he is 70 years of age and the electricity he generates lights up the crag with ascents of climbs that folks a quarter of his age would not succeed on. Local Photographer, Matt Raimondo agrees. “Ian strolls up to the crag in the mid-afternoon, he has a bit of a yarn and shares crag beta before warming up on the climb that you and your mates have struggled on for weeks!” |
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Ian happened upon climbing twenty-seven years ago on a bushwalk at Girraween, Queensland. After chatting with some climbers, they offered him some gear and a climb. After ten metres of climbing, he summitted, elated with a sense of achievement all climbers are familiar with. A taste became a hunger. Listening to Ian speak about climbing is like watching a boy play cricket in the backyard.
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“I’m inspired to climb by the enjoyment it brings and the amazing people that make up the climbing community. The mental and physical challenge that hard climbing brings makes easier days out such an enjoyable experience.”
Ian has climbed intermittently for years but when he returned from a climbing trip to Thailand, he realised that he could climb harder. “Climbing with young people in Thailand was great. I was climbing low 20’s (5.10c/d to 5.11a/b) without too much trouble, but they lifted me.” Upon return Ian knew what he needed; it was young people to give him motivation to improve. He clicked on the web and found a post about a guy called Matt Eaton who was establishing routes at Mount Coolum near Ian’s home. “So, I meandered up there and met Matt and Frey Yule who encouraged me to work, Yoink (24/5.11c).” They belayed him on subsequent attempts and mentored him to work through the gymnastic movements required to climb the steep stone of the cave. “These super experienced guys taught me the ropes and helped me along on my quest.” Ian isn’t all about clipping bolts at Coolum, as he has enjoyed trips to Arapiles, the Grampians, and the Blue Mountains. He maintains seeking out adventurous routes, which keeps him young. |
Ian Elliot is on "Call of Duty" (28/5.12d) at Coolum Cave, Queensland, Australia. (Photo Credit: Matt Raimondo)
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“I remember an epic day with Frey when things got dark on Lamplighter (14/5.6), a classic route on the back of the Pharos at Arapiles. Frey led the first pitch but didn’t climb high enough which caused some route-finding confusion. I found myself setting off on Judgement Day (19/5.10b) with 80 kilometer per hour (50 mph) winds racing through Pharos Gully! That is the most committing trad route I have done.”
Ian is a guy from the farming game and grew up near Coolum. He has changed course through the years from going from farming to mineral exploration for mining companies, tramping throughout Central Queensland searching for rocks. “Between farming and metal exploration I did good and retired at 53.”
Ian is a guy from the farming game and grew up near Coolum. He has changed course through the years from going from farming to mineral exploration for mining companies, tramping throughout Central Queensland searching for rocks. “Between farming and metal exploration I did good and retired at 53.”
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Ian’s start on the family farm set him up well for the rigours of climbing. Shouldering 50 kilogram (110 pounds) fertiliser bags builds broad shoulders and makes for strong forearms. He coupled this with bushwalking which built endurance, then motorbike endurance riding which pounds your core. “You need concentration and courage to stay focused while riding at 80 kilometers per hour (50 mph) through rough terrain, so I was kind of ready for climbing.” Ian’s physic was suited to steep Coolum climbing, but put him on a slab and his stubby fingers leaves him struggling. He once drank and smoked too much but climbing changed all that and he has learned to make good with what he has. “Finger strength is not as positive as when I was a younger and I need to keep my core active, so the speed bumps of age don’t soften my abs.” He keeps them taut with a home gym and simple workouts. Ian’s Queenslander home has twenty steps leading up to his door. He says. “I am always moving, always doing something. I’ve never spent much time sitting still. Most days Ian starts with a stretch then lateral pull downs and lifting weights up to 35kg to work that core. His gym is where he can collect his thoughts and direct them to the needs of The Cave. He uses his time wisely. “I need recovery time. I often do laps up in the Cave. I’ll spend twenty minutes on a hard project then take forty minutes rest.” He enjoys this as Coolum is a social crag and it provides him time to exchange beta and chin wag with other climbers. |
Ian Elliot hangboard training.
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He adds, “Because I live near the Cave, I don’t have to do all the hard climbs in a day like the climbers from Brisbane who have limited time. I equally enjoy giving other climbers a catch.”
This discipline and camaraderie have had more rewards for Ian than building muscle memory.
“It takes time for me to recover on Coolum climbs, so in-between I socialise. I try to be a role model and show what can be achieved.”
There is also common sense.
“Most hard stuff I gotta work. It’s not worth messing around if I’m not going to yield a result so I’ll take a rest day with Jannette [His wife]."
’m not sure if Jannette see’s it the same way. Janette shared with me the following antidote of her man. “Early in his climbing I came downstairs and suddenly saw this giant spider doing pull-ups from the framework of the house. It was Ian of course!”
This discipline and camaraderie have had more rewards for Ian than building muscle memory.
“It takes time for me to recover on Coolum climbs, so in-between I socialise. I try to be a role model and show what can be achieved.”
There is also common sense.
“Most hard stuff I gotta work. It’s not worth messing around if I’m not going to yield a result so I’ll take a rest day with Jannette [His wife]."
’m not sure if Jannette see’s it the same way. Janette shared with me the following antidote of her man. “Early in his climbing I came downstairs and suddenly saw this giant spider doing pull-ups from the framework of the house. It was Ian of course!”
Ian Elliot is on "Little Wednesday" (25/5.11d) at Brooyer, Queensland, Australia. (Photo Credit: Matt Raimondo)
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She also gave insight of Ian’s character, the one that climbers have grown to know. “I love the man. The grandchildren love watching Poppy training. Ian has a caring and gentle nature and has looked after me beautifully when I have been unwell. People may not know but he visits his mother regularly. She is in care and Ian helps her with simple tasks like eating meals.”
Wisdom accompanies years and frequently young climbers ask him for advice on everyday dilemmas as they peer up at partners grappling amongst the steepness. They often stare at him too, Matt Raimondo adds, “When Ian climbs everyone is watching him cut loose and pull down on gnarly terrain. He moves swiftly but may let out the occasional power scream that gets him through a crux.” Ian has invested the time to develop his beast, but the everyday things are important to him too. “I walk with Janette on the beach for pleasure while the walk up to the cave is fifteen minutes of toil.” Ian is lucky as a senior climber; he doesn’t have joint issues, just irritating hip and knee niggles from a lifetime of manual work. When he does feel the years, he adapts. “Most days I start in my gym and do two sets of twenty pull ups on my bar and bench press key weights. This routine, walking with Janette, and walking up to the crag, has my fitness at a place where I can consider climbing hard projects.” In October 2020 at 68 years young, that discipline came of age. Ian sent Call of Duty (28/5.12d) at Coolum Cave. He had been working up to this for years, watching the turbo charged young guns and interpreting their beta for his steam driven machine. |
Ian Elliot is on "Spike" (18/5.10a) at Brooyer, Queensland, Australia. (Photo Credit: Matt Raimondo)
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“I pulled a hamstring at the start of Weapon of Choice a couple of years back attempting a hard heel hook. I modified the move to avoid putting pressure on my body.” Even through injury he routinely ventured up to the cave to support and catch his friends. Lucy Stirling, a prominent Queensland climber, said this of his eventual send.
“Sending Call of Duty was only a matter of time for Ian and I'm certain we'll be seeing more exciting ascents from him soon.”
He does have other issues including the oncoming freight train that is aging. The more he spoke the more this reality was exposed.
“As you age your cardio doesn’t work so well. I don’t process oxygen as efficiently as the young crew, so I practise effective breathing, seek out rests for momentary recovery more than the average climber. I often restore a safe heart rate before moving on. Older climbers need to keep it within their ability.”
Healing can take longer so the skinning Ian received catching knee bars and wild hooks on steep stone was an initial problem, as it has been for other climbers in the cave. He and his friends developed a solution; old wetsuits were cut up and put on to protect their skin. Ian added, “Today they’ve developed new apparel for climbers that help you stick.” Ian has grown with the game and uses all he has learnt to secure that extra inch of gain.
“Sending Call of Duty was only a matter of time for Ian and I'm certain we'll be seeing more exciting ascents from him soon.”
He does have other issues including the oncoming freight train that is aging. The more he spoke the more this reality was exposed.
“As you age your cardio doesn’t work so well. I don’t process oxygen as efficiently as the young crew, so I practise effective breathing, seek out rests for momentary recovery more than the average climber. I often restore a safe heart rate before moving on. Older climbers need to keep it within their ability.”
Healing can take longer so the skinning Ian received catching knee bars and wild hooks on steep stone was an initial problem, as it has been for other climbers in the cave. He and his friends developed a solution; old wetsuits were cut up and put on to protect their skin. Ian added, “Today they’ve developed new apparel for climbers that help you stick.” Ian has grown with the game and uses all he has learnt to secure that extra inch of gain.
Ian Elliot putting on the neoprene knee pads, made by cutting up old wet suits. (Photo Credit: Matt Raimondo)
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Ian Elliot is on "Three Men and a Ladder" (26/5.12a) at Coolum Cave, Queensland, Australia. (Photo Credit: Matt Raimondo)
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Ian looks up to others too. Walter Bonatti is a climbing hero who climbed into his golden years and Ian is motivated by his example. Closer to home it is the men that gave him his first roped climbs, Frey Yule, and Matt Eaton. He also has respect for Zac Vertrees, Garth Miller, Tom O’Halloran, and Lucy Stirling.
“I used to know Tom when he was 15,” said Ian with pride.
Lucy Stirling added this. “What an incredibly wonderful person to be at the crag with. Ian has a big heart and is such an inspiration to me and to all of us Queensland climbers.”
It will be interesting to watch where next Ian focuses his climbing energy. When most aging folks work on the premise of diminishing returns Ian just keeps on rocking and inspiring others. He wants other wrinklies to know you can stay active and hard without Viagra. “Just get out there and do it, have a go.”
That sounds like sage advice.
“I used to know Tom when he was 15,” said Ian with pride.
Lucy Stirling added this. “What an incredibly wonderful person to be at the crag with. Ian has a big heart and is such an inspiration to me and to all of us Queensland climbers.”
It will be interesting to watch where next Ian focuses his climbing energy. When most aging folks work on the premise of diminishing returns Ian just keeps on rocking and inspiring others. He wants other wrinklies to know you can stay active and hard without Viagra. “Just get out there and do it, have a go.”
That sounds like sage advice.
Ian Elliot is on "Screaming Insanity" (26/5.12a) at Coolum Cave, Queensland, Australia. (Photo Credit: Matt Raimondo)