Photo Credit: Daga Dygas
Writings are listed alphabetically. Titles that begin with "A" are listed under "A" and "The" are listed under "T."
  • A Bard of Yosemite (By by Scott Peterson) - There are Bards in Yosemite. In this magical place there are many. A Bard is that spinner of tales, a weaver of yarns, a teller of stories, a provocateur of the absurd. I am a Bard, a Traveling Troubadour of The Obscure. I seek those tales, stories, and places that others might pass by and miss. 
  • A Chamonix Initiation (By Keith Bell) - ​​An experienced Aussie rock climber goes to Chamonix for some world class alpine climbing and encounters some rather unfortunate - and sometimes hilarious - events. Let's just say he gets quite the initiation. ​
  • A Climb Worth Fighting For (by Michael Sirianni) - A Climb Worth Fighting For... "It’s a sense of self-confidence that can only be earned through this personal journey, told by the movements on the wall, or a problem that roadblocks our life...." This is a tale of the personal journey, we as climbers can understand.
  • A Day Out with Barnsie (By Keith Bell) - ​Common Climber contributor Keith Bell has a light-hearted writing style and way with words. In this unique story he uses climb names and song titles to tell us about a fun time out with a group of friends over New Years. One of those friends is Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes - aka. Barnsie (FYI - Aussies like adding "ie" to the ends of words). Barnsie is also the nick-name of a famous Australian rock-n-roll artist, which is where the song-play begins. Check out this fun story, and build in a little extra time to to hear the tunes referred to in the story - they will transport you to the Land Down Under in the most creative of ways. ​​
  • A Delicate Balance - Climbers, Traditional Owners, and Parks Victoria Navigate Gariwerd (Grampians) (​By Leigh Hopkinson) - Gariwerd / the Grampians National Park was once one of the best rock-climbing destinations in the world. In 2019, land manager Parks Victoria banned climbing in one third of the park to protect Aboriginal cultural heritage and the environment. Since then, most of the park – 70 per cent of routes, 6200 climbs – has been closed to climbing. Leigh Hopkinson looks back on the four-year fight for access.
  • A Leap into the Blue Back in the Day ​(By Keith Bell) - ​Often climbs are named based upon an experience with the first ascent - but this climb, called "Serenity," was named tongue-in-cheek for the very non-serene descent that occurred before the ascent. 
  • A N00bie Climber's Story (By Debbie Fowler) - Common Climber Debbie Fowler started climbing at a later stage in life - quickly moving from the gym to big walls
  • A  Shift on Moonlight Buttress (By Laur Sabourin) - Some climbs are so demanding that they strip away every internal barrier, leaving the essence of who we are and then transforming us into who we knew we could be. Laur Sabourin shares a moving tale of some monumental shifts while climbing Moonlight Buttress. 
  • ​A Tale of Oso Madre (New Mexico, USA) - (by Mike Lewis) -  "I slumped at my desk on Monday morning in complete dysfunction before the first cup of coffee. The hearty aroma of fresh brew forced my eyes to open as I raised the mug to drink. One sip of the magic elixir jump started the chemical motor in my brain.  I noticed a photograph laying on my desk which had eluded my uncaffinated vision a moment before. The photograph contained the image of a distant mountain with impressive rock walls." That image kickstarted an impressive adventure for a first ascent in the remote Capitan Mountains of southern New Mexico.
  • A Tribute to Bryden Allen: Packed and Off on the Next Adventure (By Keith Bell) - Vale Bryden Allen - a legend of Australian climbing, who established classics along the East Coast of the continent (even preparing the ground for John Ewbank) and into the remote southern sea, creating and bringing the latest in climbing tools to Down Under (including the infamous Australian carrot), and spreading the spirit of camaraderie in climbing both before and after a debilitating accident that put him in a wheelchair - has passed. Join us in this special tribute to Bryden given by fellow first ascentionist Keith Bell, who followed in Bryden's footsteps both literally and figuratively. Keith considers Bryden a mentor and friend and here, shares the incredible story of Vale Bryden Allen.
  • A Unique, Big City Crag: Buenos Aires, Argentina Climbing (By Stefani Dawn) You’ve probably never seen a crag like this one!
  • Absolutely Hypothetical: Introducing the Graham Scale (By Jeff Smoot) - John Sherman, the father of the V-scale for bouldering, says, "Learn to mistrust rating systems and pity those who are slaves to them.” Jeff Smoot agrees with this sentiment and ponders the bouldering grading systems, ultimately proposing the Graham Scale. This tongue-in-cheek - or maybe not-so-tongue-in-cheek - piece gets you thinking about how climbing can be approached beyond being "slaves to the ratings."​​
  • Achilles (by Naomi Gibbs) - Author Naomi Gibbs shares a moving story of an achilles rupture that occurred when climbing her multi-year project. ​
  • Advocating for Deaf Climbers: Sonya Wilson  - A very informative interview with rock climber and Deaf climber advocate, Sonya Wilson. Learn more about her story, but also the many things that we can do to better support the Deaf.
  • Alien Sex Toy... Or How the Alien Got Its Name (By Jeff Smoot) - Jeff Smoot dredges up some long forgotten - or perhaps never known - history of how the now-infamous Alien cam actually got its name...
  • Amputations: Leg Prosthesis for Climbing (By Szu-Pin Lee, PhD) - ​​If you've ever wondered how a leg prosthesis works, especially for rock climbing, read on! Learn the basics and feel comfortable asking questions of fellow climbers  who might happen to have an amputated limb.
  • Andrew Penny - A Blue Mountaineer ​(By Dave Barnes) - Andrew Penny is a legend  in the Blue Mountains of Australia. Andrew rode the wave of change in the Blue Mountains ushering in sport climbing But, he also made sure to bolt easy to moderate climbs that are accessible to all climbers. Dave Barnes gives us a tour of this Australian climbing legend. ​
  • Animal Acts Part 1: Things With Wings (by Keith Bell) - Keith Bell has a way with words and some rich climbing tales. In part one of a two-part series Keith shares four laugh-out-loud tales of climbing encounters with "Things With Wings."​
  • Animal Acts 2: Things That Slither, Crawl, and Walk  (By Keith Bell) - Keith Bell wraps up his entertaining two-part series on critters he has encountered while climbing. From snakes, to things with fur and exoskeletons, these stories will make you laugh, cringe, or be fascinated - or all of the above. 
  • ​Anoushé Husain - Anoushé Husain is a Muslim paraclimber of Pakistani origins and lives in London, England. Anoushé has had a number of life events thrown at her - cancer, Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome, inflammatory bowel disease, and recent injuries which have made her a wheelchair-user, in addition to being born with missing her right arm below the elbow. Yet, climbing remains central to Anoushé's life. 
  • Anti-Social Climbers (by Leesa Gallia) - A humorous poem about climbing addiction.
  • Assault on Schurman Rock (By Jeff Smoot) - Author Jeff Smoot heads to a local Seattle outdoor climbing wall, Schurman Rock (the oldest known purpose-built artificial climbing wall in the world), for some peaceful laps - not today! A light-hearted climbing story with a little history thrown in.
  • Backpacker/Trad Climber Tries Alpine: The Mt. Ogden Spanking (Part 1) (by Stefani Dawn) - An experienced backpacker and multipitch trad climber forays into to world of alpine climbing and learns that alpine climbing is more than the sum of its parts.
  • Backpacker/Trad Climber Tries Alpine: The Mount Whitney Whipping (Part 2)​ (by Stefani Dawn) - Mt. Ogden (Part 1) was training for Mt. Whitney. The author applied what she learned from the Mt. Ogden experience to Whitney and... 
  • Blind Ambition Builds a World Class Climber: The Story of Jesse Dufton (By Dave Barnes) - United Kingdom climber Jesse Dufton has Rod-Cone Dystrophy, a genetic disorder where his eyes do not have the structural support for the light sensitive cells at the back of the eye. This has slowly eroded his vision, taking him into the world of climbing blind. Jesse, who has been climbing since a young age, has adapted - and he still leads trad. 
  • Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys (by Stefani Dawn) - Epics, mini-epics, near-epics, and zones of craptitude make for good stories...But, most of the time things are pretty dang chill. Fun. Enjoyable. Cool. Sometimes there is even bliss.
  • Bolting and Ground-fall Potential (by Stefani Dawn) - Learn how to visually determine whether a bolted sport climb is poorly protected.
  • BOOK REVIEWS:
  • Bouldering for Beginners: Fear of Falling (by Stephanie Bahnsen) - How do you overcome the fear of falling when bouldering? By learning how to fall correctly.
  • Bouldering Grade Advancements (by Stephanie Bahnsen) - A few simple tips to climb a harder grade. But in our rush to improve, there are a couple realities that we often ignore...
  • Bouldering: JTree Made Me Do It (by Stefani Dawn) - The author has been rock climbing since 2007 and has intended to boulder, but other than an occasional gym session, never seemed to get around to it - until now -- "JTree made me do it."
  • California Still has Untouched Climbing Wilderness (by Brice Pollock) - Brice takes you on an adventure up Mattes Crest in the High Sierras of California and shows how California still has remote, high quality climbing adventures.
  • Calling Pat Ament (By Jeff Smoot) - An adventure story of two young climbers just trying to find a place to sleep. 
  • Cam Ranges (+ Big Bros) (By Rick Momsen) - ​A useful (and quite pretty) spreadsheet showing the ranges of every cam (and big bro) available as of May 2020. Gear nerds - enjoy!
  • Can’t Find A Better Man: The Story of Saxon Johns and a Climb he Believes is "Better Than Life"  (by Dave Barnes) - An Australian climbing legend that's apparently about as nice as he is strong. ​
  • Carabiner Strength Ratings (by Juan Rodriguez) - A helpful tutorial on carabiner strength ratings and why those ratings are important.​​
  • Christo's Little Bay Rhapsody (By Keith Bell) - ​Christo, an avant garde artist that likes to wrap very large things, left his mark on Little Bay near Sydney, Australia - with the help of climbers, of course. Contributor Keith Bell happened to be one of those climbers. In this interesting and humorous account, Keith fills us in on what it was like to help wrap 2.5 kilometers (1.5 miles) of coastline with fabric and what happened in the aftermath - including how NOT to deal with 400 meters of rope.
  • Chossy Trio Renegades (by Dave Barnes) - What do you get when you assemble a group of climbing friends and add beer? You get the Chossy Trio Renegades who decided their contribution to “saving the world” is bringing climbers outside and showing them how to rock. 
  • Claiming a Space on the Mountain (By Wayne Branch) - Wayne Branch shares his experience of being a black climber through his ascent of Mt. Rainier. ​
  • CLIMBING CHECK LIST
    Work your way down the list and hit every single climbing area in a state that has more than 40 climbs! The list shows the number of climbs that are bouldering, sport, or trad.
  • Climbing, Community, and the U.S. Presidential Election (by Stefani Dawn) - A rock climber explores the importance of rock climbing and community in light of the 2016 U.S. Presidential election.
  • Climbing Drinking Games (by Stefani Dawn) - Have a little fun with: Guidebook Roulette; 15 Minutes My A**! and "Nice!" at the Crag.
  • ​Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky ​(An Interview with locals Joe Matin and Brice Burton)  - ​Locals Joe Martin and Brice Burton share their efforts to conserve the Daniel Boone National Forest in southern Kentucky (which is threatened by logging)  by promoting local climbing spots and establishing the non-profit Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project. Learn more about this local area and download a guidebook. 
  • Climbing is My Art (by Christine Kuebler) - "I never intended on becoming an alpine climber. If you went back in time and told me this is what I’d be doing in my life I would have laughed at you." An artist and mother redefines herself after some heart-breaking life-events. 
  • Climbing Gyms: The Gateway Drug (by Stefani Dawn) – WARNING: Climbing may be addictive. Sort of.
  • Climbing Hands (By ​David Barnes) - A climber's hands are conductors which earth us as we climb. Our feet back them up.  A climber’s hands are the touch-stone of our climbing lives. If you’re into tender and supple hands, don’t take up climbing.
  • ​Climbing in the Bare Essentials (By Stewart M. Green) - There are First Ascents (FAs), and then there are First Naked Ascents (FNAs). Stewart M. Green gives tells the tale of a FNA at the granite slabs of Whitehorse, New Hampshire. 
  • Climbing Into the Fold (by Juan Rodriguez) - How climbing and the people of climbing helped restore one person’s faith in himself and humanity.
  • Climbing Resolutions: A New Year's Conversation with Myself (by Stefani Dawn) - A climber has a New Year's conversation with herself...Can you relate?
  • Climbing Through Family Stages (by Lani Wilson) - Tips for climbing through pregnancy, toddlers, and beyond. Having children doesn't have to stop you - find out how to keep going!
  • ​Climbing Through Life (By Nick Ducker) - "This utterly arbitrary pursuit of getting one's physical being from point A to point B, in maybe the most difficult manner possible, has continued to have a profound impact on how I perceive my experience in this world. It has also accompanied me through and contributed directly to some of the most definitive moments of my life."
  • Climbing Warm-Up: Shoulders and Fingers (By Collin McGee) - Certified physical trainer Collin McGee shows us four ways to warm up our shoulders and fingers for climbing: using a hang-bar, a hangboard, the climbing wall, and at the crag. In this informative article, article Collin explains the why's and how's to do a warm up to help prevent injury. 
  • Climbing With Type 1 Diabetes ​(By Lori Miles) - Type 1 Diabetes may not be something that would typically come to mind when you think of adaptive climbing, but adaptive climbing means having to make significant adjustments for a condition that affects you on a daily basis. Lori Miles explains how Type 1 Diabetes impacts her life, climbing, and the adaptations she has to make to ensure she can climb safely.
  • ​Colorblind (By Juan Rodriguez) - For our "Honoring Diversity" edition Juan shares a video of his experiences as a Mexican American and his encounters with police.  Through his thoughtful dialogue, Juan shares ways we can move forward as friends, neighbors, and a community regarding matters of race. 
  • Consolation Prize (By Hugh Ward) - Two adventurous climbers seeking a first ascent , get benighted, skunked, and a little consolation prize tossed in.
  • Copen Hill: A Huge Climbing Wall in Copenhagen, Demark  (By Michael Hjorth) - At 80 meters (262 feet) Copen Hill is the largest artificial climbing wall in the world. But it doesn't stop there - it is built on the side of the world's cleanest waste-to-energy incinerator (which also has a ski hill and walking trails built into it.) Copenhagen local Michael Hjorth takes us on a tour of this unique climbing structure and shares some of his Danish Mountain Club "insider" experiences with and knowledge of the wall.
  • COVID Climbing Memes (By Bad Beta Bouldering) - Memes almost always makes things a little lighter, don't they? Here's a little humor to help get us through some challenging times.
  • Dear Memory (By Matt Spohn) - Climber, climbing photographer, and talented writer Matt Spohn captures a very, very moving moment in CoVID time.
  • Demented Dirt Bag (By ​David Barnes) - The scruffy looking peeps who have darkened hands from anodised carabiners, weird looking toes from being cramped in climbing shoes for way too long and blunt everything’s, from ice axes to pocket knives. They have scavenged hands from getting their jam in cracks. These climbers have given up on normal and live for the climb. These demented ones are The Dirtbags.
  • Desert Special Forces Adventures: Part 1 (By James Crump) - If you haven't read one of James Crump's larger-than-life Texas tales, then now is the time to begin. This time James takes us to Hueco Tanks, Texas (where James has numerous FAs and wrote a guidebook, BTW). On one of his trips he encounters some Green Berets and...
  • Developer - Mitch Lehman (Interview By Stefani Dawn) - ​Mitch Lehman shares his experiences developing a new crag in the Piney Creek Gorge in Beckley, West Virginia. Mitch worked closely with local organizations and government agencies to create a crag for all levels and for teaching. He provides an excellent example of community-based crag development. ​
  • Dirtbag Trucker (by Joe Martin) - "It had been a long, 14-hour day at the tail end of a week-long run and I was finally close to my end-of-trip destination. This time I was on a Covid haul of toilet paper from Danvill, Kentucky to Worcester, Massachusetts. Prior to 2020, I would never have imagined that toilet paper would be the major survival commodity of an almost-apocalyptic panic from a virus. I would have guessed maybe medical supplies, freeze dried food, or survival gear. But nope - just a helluva lot of toilet paper..." Trucker Joe Martin takes every opportunity when he's on the road to find places to climb. Sometimes he ends up on narrow and rutted dirt roads where there's no way to turn a big-rig around. Follow along in Joe's lively, southern story-telling about a trucking-climber's life. 
  • Diversity in Climbing (& the Outdoors) is Not a Bandwagon (By Stefani Dawn) - Diversity is not a bandwagon. Bandwagon implies short-lived popularity. This is a movement to create some needed shifts in our sociological landscape. So what are some things we can do as this landscape changes?
  • ​Dolomites (By Matt Tredway) - "My Italian climbing partner was a friend-of-friends...The 45ish, burly Italian scoffed, and said, 'Those sport climbers. They are like the kids today… too lazy to buy the sausage and cut it up…  they want it pre sliced. They want to have hard grades, a planned route, no thinking, and don't even look around at the views!' I gulp a little, and nodded - knowing in the back of my mind that Shelf Road is a sport crag I've climbed a couple times a year since forever."
  • Don't Take Granite for Granite (by Stefani Dawn) - Every new crag and rock type brings a unique experience. But one type of rock - granite - is the most unpredictable.
  • Dorothy, We Aren't On Havanah Anymore (by Stefani Dawn) - Have you ever gotten on the wrong climb and realized it a little too late?
  • Drew and Sarah Hulsey - Newly-weds and new climbers Drew and Sarah Hulsey of Nashville, Tennessee, share their perspectives on being new climbers and how climbing enters into their relationship. 
  • ​Drytooling in the Rain - Wayne's World, Washington (By Wayne Wallace) - What do you do when you when you are an ice climber and "suffer from poor- to- no ice; near-constant rain nine months of the year; closed gyms due to COVID; damp, moss-covered rock; short rock seasons; AND, right now (also due to COVID), can’t even enter Canada..."? You learn how to dry tool and gather a community together and build your own nearby crag. Welcome to Wayne's World!
  • Early to Rock: A Tribute to David Roots (July 14, 1931 to December 15, 2021) (By Keith Bell) - David Roots, an Australian climbing legend has passed. Long-time Aussie climber and first ascentionist Keith Bell shares a wonderful tribute to David, who was one of New South Wales' foremost climbers to emerge in the 1950's post-war period.
  • Echo Crack and Cracked Egos (By Anton Korsun) - ​​Anton and his mate Zac had a plan - Echo Crack, a classic and challenging John Ewbank four-pitch trad climb in the Blue Mountains of Australia - but their plan got foiled again, and again, and again... Anton weaves an entertaining tale about the quest for a climb and the photos to accompany it.
  • El Capitan (By Enock Glidden) - Enock, a paraplegic climber with Spina Bifida, takes us on his journey to climb El Capitan in Yosemite, CA.
  • Elusive Ice - A Rare Tasmanian Treat (By Tionne Hilder) - A climbing couple chases ice in Tasmania and finds a rare opportunity in the mountains of Ben Lomond.
  • Email From Italy (By Tony McKenny) - "Hi All, Having a lovely time, wish you were here :-). The Dolomites of Italy are sensational, more rock than you can poke a stick at... and accessible too - apart from the queues on the popular routes. But they can still bite your bum, as we found out, nearly to our cost. You know accidents can be made up of small incidents. It's like the gaming machine, three lemons means you have hit the jackpot and are in deep shite..."
  • Encouraging Words - At Any Age (By Dierdre Wolownick) - Dierdre Wolownick explores the role of encouraging words in climbing and beyond. If you think what you say doesn't make a difference, you might think differently...
  • EQUIPMENT/GEAR REVIEWS
    • Arc'teryx FL-365 - ultra thin, ultra light harness.
    • CAMP, Daisy Twist - Find out why this is the author's all-time favorite PAS.
    • Dr. Piton's Review of the D4 Delta2P Portaledge (By Peter Zabrok) - Peter Zabrok, aka. Dr. Piton, has slept over 800 nights on El Capitan, with 200 (or so) of them on the D4 portaledges made by John “Deucey” Middendorf. Peter gave the new Delta2P ledge a go and shares his thoughts on this unique "cantilever" design that has the short side up against the wall. Check out Piton Pete's lively review!
    • Edelrid Mega Jul - A unique, light, stainless steel assisted braking belay device. 
    • Misty Mountain, Cadillac Quick Adjust - A broad, padded style harness with lots of gear loops. 
    • Petzl Dual Adjust Personal Anchor System - When I first discovered the Petzl Dual Adjust personal anchor system (PAS) I thought I was in PAS heaven...I loved it - until I bought one and used it.
    • SkyHook Stick Clip (Review By Stefani Dawn) - Sometimes you wonder if the wheel can be really be re-invented. This is not re-inventing the wheel, it is smartly taking the best of all options and combining them into an ideal climbing tool. Read on to learn more about the SkyHook features and how they compare to Stef's old stick clip. 
    • Trango Crag Pack - Find out why this reviewer wonders why she waited so long to buy a crag-specific pack.Sukoa Chalk Bag Review - Is there a chalk bag that really outdoes the others? Why yes there is. Find out why
  • Everyone Around Me Is Better Than I Am (By Tony Ferrar) - Tony Ferrar describes his struggle with sending a route that others walked up to and did as a warm up.  He takes us through the ego-driven blackhole of comparing ourselves with others and shares some helpful mental tips.
  • ​​Expanding the Circle (By Natalia "Tal" Tune) - As Natalia faces a potential diagnosis of rheumatoid arthritis currently impacting their knees, they reflect upon how the climbing community can move beyond exclusivity and ableism, expanding our circles to embrace diversity and create a supportive network to enable everyone to climb.  
  • Failure is Part of the Price: Rand Abbott Attempts the First Adaptive Lead Ascent of The Nose  (By Stefani Dawn) - Rand Abbott is one of the few adaptive lead aid climbers in the world. In the Fall of 2021 he attempted to be the first adaptive lead aid climber to ascend The Nose. The first attempt was a "successful failure." Find out why.
  • Falling Far Enough (by James Crump) - ​First ascentionist and long-time Texas climber James Crump knows a few things about falling. Check out this lively collection of three "falling" short stories to illustrate a few "rules" for falling.​
  • Fast Forward…Rysavy Ridge Revisited (by Tony McKenny) - The first article in this series on Rysavy Ridge was written by Tony not long after his first ascent of this climb. Now, we have a very special follow-up article of what is likely Tony's final ascent of this ridge. Join Tony for one final climb in Rysavy Ridge Revisited. 
  • Fear, Pride, and Exploration (by Tony Ferrar) - So much of climbing is mental - it's how we frame our experience. Tony Ferrar takes us on a journey of progression in climbing moving from fear to pride to exploration. 
  • ​Finding Poetry (by Alex Willis) - Alex Willis takes us on a journey with prose, images, and poetry. He says, "I have discovered that awe is a vital nutrient that must be shared for a meaningful life. For those willing, know that it dissolves well in ink. With poetry, we can join the nervous systems of strangers like the roots of aspens so that this nutrient can be shared." This beautiful work is one to be read slowly and savored.
  • First Paralyzed Ascents: Rand Abbott (Interview by Enock Glidden) - Rand Abbott is a climber in Joshua Tree, California who has numerous First Paralyzed Ascents in the park. Rand shares his thoughts and experiences in an interview with Enock Glidden. Local JTree legend and long-time climbing partner with Rand, Todd Gordon, chimes in too...
  • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited (By Keith Bell) - ​​Iconic climbs are ones that capture your eye, inexplicably draw you towards them, and are a test piece for climbers across generations. Flake Crack, on Mount Piddington in the Blue Mountains of Australia, is one of those climbs. Look at that photo and see why - now experience the journey.
  • From Couch to Lifting Couches (By Lisa Vitaris) - ​Australian climber Lisa Vitaris shares the myriade of physical activities she did - or attempted to do - during quarantine. ​
  • From Gortex to Camouflage: The story of climber, Irina Galay and climbing’s responses to the war in Ukraine (By Dave Barnes) - In 2021, Irina Galay climbed K2. In 2022, she swapped Gortex for comouflage and is serving in the Home Guard in defense of her people in Ukraine. This Common Climber feature by CC Assistant Editor Dave Barnes is a dive into a climber's life in this war. It reflects the history of climbing and war and examines the climbing industry and climber's responses to the war in Ukraine. It presents questions that each of us has to answer for ourselves. Learn about the impact that the war in Ukraine is having on the greater climbing community - particularly in mountaineering - and be moved by Irina, who shares her experience and what can be done to defeat tyranny and to stand in solidarity with the people of Ukraine. 
  • From a Nut to a Harness: A Tribute to Paul Seddon, The Third Troll (By Keith Bell) - Climber, inventor, and Troll co-founder Paul Seddon passed on November 3, 2022 at the age of 82. Author Keith Bell provides a historic review of Paul's contributions to our world of climbing - including some of the earliest manufactured nuts in the climbing world and the first manufactured climbing harness - the Whillan Harness.
  • From Yorkshire to Eternity ​(By Keith Bell) - ​Australian author and climber Keith Bell takes us on a journey of the ultra-classic crack climb The Eternity on Mt. Piddington in the Blue Mountains outside of Sydney. 
  • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs" (By Stefani Dawn) - I’m just going to say it. Fuck “gumbies” and “noobs.” No, I’m not talking about the people that these words supposedly personify. I’m talking about those words.
  • Guinea Pig Climbers: Zoe and Patches - Common Climber interviews Instagram sensations Zoe and Patches, the world's first guinea pig climbers.
  • GOD - (By Stuart Williams, Photos By Simon Aslop) - It's 2166 - where will climbing's future be? What is "next level?"
  • Growing Up (By Jack Waterhouse) - Jack Waterhouse had a vision of climbing and living in Yosemite - maybe forever? Or maybe growing up reshapes you in unexpected ways. Jack takes us on his quest to climb El-Cap and the changing landscape of life and Yosemite. 
  • Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing (By Melissa Kline) - Author and climbing instructor Melissa Kline also has a hobby as a miniaturist! During COVID quarantine, she got creative. Check out her photos!
  • Guide Books Follies (by Stefani Dawn) - Ever had an epic (or a mini) because a guidebook left out important information?
  • GymRhino: Africa's Most Famous Boulder Takes to the Road (By James Thurlow) - When James Thurlow went to the Rocklands, South Africa, he fell in those with the infamous V8/7B+ climb The Rhino. He wanted to project it, but living 6000 miles away made that task difficult. Then his partner suggested, "Why not build a replica?" And the journey to replicate The Rhino began. See how this vision came to fruition, how they have created easier versions of the climb to make it more accessible, and, if you are in Europe, how you can climb it too. 
  • Hardly Failing  ​(By Wil Treasure) - "Failing" in climbing comes in many forms. Climber Wil Treasure reflects upon one of his best, least epic "failures" on a big climb in Taghia, Morocco. Be transported.
  • ​Improving Hip Mobility and Strength (By Collin McGee) - Hip mobility and strength are critical for high steps in climbing. Physical trainer Collin McGee shares helpful information about how to improve your high-step game. ​
  • How Auto-Immune Disease Affected My Climbing (By Stefani Dawn)  -It’s funny, but it’s not. I was on pitch 5 of 9 and I just…how do I put this tactfully?... shit myself. It wasn’t a lot, but it was uncomfortable, disheartening.
  • How to Climb and Avoid the Coronavirus  ​(By Dr. Julian Saunders) - Julian is an accomplished climber, frequent contributor to climbing journals, and offers online Osteopathic consultations for climbers. Here he discusses the possible variations of climbing (or not) during this pandemic. His article is accompanied by some beautiful photos of classic climbs around the world - illustrating how we are all in this together.​
  • I am a Woman: Brie Chartier Shares Her Transition Journey (By Stefani Dawn) - Brie Chartier is an AMGA single pitch instructor and a transgender woman. This year, at the age of 47, she underwent gender affirmation surgery and, by fully embracing both her womanhood and outdoor and LGBTQIA+ advocacy passions, she finally feels whole. 
  • I Am My Father's Son: Layton Bridwell (By David Barnes) - Jim Bridwell (aka. The Bird) is a well-known Stonemaster of Yosemite. Jim passed in the summer of 2018 and now his son Layton is doing the emotional task of sorting through all of his father's things. Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes joins Layton on a cell-phone tour of Jim Bridwell's garage and goes down memory lane of a life-long belaytionship between father and son. ​
  • ​I Like Fake Cracks (And I Cannot Lie) (by Jeff Smoot) - ​"It seems like there’s always some weirdo at the climbing gym who, despite the efforts of some poor route setter who’s labored for hours to set the holds just so to create not just a climbing problem but a work of art, insists on climbing the cracks. That weirdo is usually me." Author Jeff Smoot likes fake cracks and in this story he shares one or two that actually got him driving across the country to send. 
  • Is Diversity in America, Diverse? (By Enock Glidden) - Enock Glidden explores the true meaning of diversity and, through the lens of adaptive climbing and sports, asks the question "Is Diversity in America Diverse?" ​ ​
  • It's All Up From Here: Ian Elliot ​(By Dave Barnes) - Ian Elliot is doing some of his hardest climbing at the age of 70. In this extended version of a joint publication with Vertical Life print magazine (Winter 2022 Edition 39), Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes takes us into Ian's world. 
  • It Was His Time: Brad Gobright (Interview May 2019) (By David Barnes) - Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes shares a tribute to and his May 2019 interview with the late Brad Gobright. 
  • Ice is Nice, Wetter Isn't Better (By Leesa Gallia) - A humorous ode to ice climbing.
  • Ice Solo (by Matt Westlake) - Photographer Matt Westlake is asked by a friend to capture his solos up two WI6 ice formations. Matt shares the photos and what goes through his mind...
  • Improv at JTree: Three Characters Attack Bad Bolts With Humor, A Device, and Dedication (By Stefani Dawn) - Joshua Tree has been around a long time, and so have many of its bolts. Kevin, John, and "IE," a lean, mean bolt-replacing team, would joke that those things haven't been around as long as they have...
  • Introduction to Climbing Shoes: Selecting a Fit (by Juan Rodriguez) – Climbers are often given the advice to buy a tight-fitting climbing shoe. Find out why this might not be your best choice.
  •  It's a F-ing Chimney (By Stefani Dawn) - I used to avoid chimneys like the plague. If a route description said chimney, I’d move on to find a different route. Here’s why... 
  • John Middendorf : A Big Man for a Big Stone (By David Barnes) - Suffering from hypothermia on the side of Half Dome in Yosemite during one of the worst storms of the decade, John Middendorf became life-threateningly aware that there were no storm-proof portaledges available at the time. Middendorf, an engineer and big wall climber, resolved to change that.
  • Joshua Tree: Heinous Approaches  (by Stefani Dawn) - When boulderfield meets desert the approach can be unpredictable - sometimes it's no big deal, sometimes "hell boulderado."
  • Joshua Tree: The Bolting Pressure Cooker (by Stefani Dawn) - Meet Farai and Kelly, "new school" route developers in Joshua Tree. For some, using the words “new-school,” “route development”, and “Joshua Tree” all in the same sentence can be hair-raising/red-flag inducing/trouble-making. For others it elicits great relief and gratitude. What exactly does “new school” mean in JTree?
  •  Kevin Powell: Photos, First Ascents, and Finding Joy (By Stefani Dawn) - He stood on the 5.10 JTree slab, 20 feet up, and drilled the first bolt. This is not your get it over in 15 seconds with a power drill, this is with a hand drill...on lead... slip in these helmet-less days would result in carnage no one wanted to see or experience.
  • La Huasteca (By James Crump) - A hilarious and adventurous coming-of-age tale of when a 16-year-old Crump and his buddy Goomba cross the border to Mexico and go adventure climbing in La Huasteca.​​
  • Lessons from a 30-Foot Ground Fall (By Jeff Smoot) - ​"It happened in an instant, almost by surprise. I was making the crux move, thirty feet off the ground, feet smeared out on a slick overhanging wall, reaching up from a sloping knob to a jug that was just out of reach. It was close, so close, and impulsively I lunged for it. And missed. And then I was falling..."
  • Little Red Riding Hood: The Extraordinary Story of a Climber & Survivor -Sabine Pratt Hunziker (By Dave Barnes) - ​Sabine Pratt-Hunziker is a rock climbing force with a fighting spirit. She fell about 20 meters in a climbing accident and was put in a coma to survive. Her determination has brought her back to climbing. ​
  • LOCATION (Information & Reviews)
  • Lost Boys Meets Hard Boys (By Henk Morgans) - Lost Boys is a challenging, run-out, big wall climb on a slick and crumbly volcanic monolith in eastern Australia, New South Wales. Two young men decided they want to be the first to climb the route in a day, but the reality of the climb met them head-on. Immerse yourself in a gripping climbing story of two friends who pushed themselves and each other.
  • Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise (By Saxon Johns) - The steep limestone walls protrude from the lush Thai jungle, beckoning to be climbed. Just don't forget your headlamp.
  • Maggie and Charlie Odette - Together since 2009, Maggie and Charlie Odette dedicate their lives to rock climbing. They live in a tiny camper and seek out steep sport climbing and good weather conditions. Both are over the age of 50 and are crushing 5.14s. Find out how they support each other in their climbing endeavors.   
  • MARKETPLACE
  • Maple Canyon: This One Makes You Taller (By Maggie Odette) - At the age of 44 Maggie Odette claimed her first 5.14a. She quit her job, married her climbing parter, and, now, 4.5 years later, became camphost at Maple Canyon so she can project and send T-Rex, a 5.14b at the age of 49. Visit the conglomerate rock of Maple Canyon, UT and experience Maggie's story. 
  • Mastering Joy on Easy Street (by Stefani Dawn) - Sometimes there are moments when a special experience reveals the right goals.
  • Memes by Bad Beta Bouldering
  • Mind, Body, and Soul: Bouldering and Climbing (by Jonathan) - A thoughtful piece about how rock climbing impacts the whole being - mind, body, and soul.
  • Mixed Climbing: My Answer to KT Syndrome ​(By Matt​ Westlake) - 21 years ago, at the age of 7, I was diagnosed with Klippel Trenaunay (KT) Syndrome - a rare disease that causes my veins to grow uncontrollably like cracks through a shattered window. Blood begins to pool, which causes poor circulation, blood clots, and lymphedema, along with a string of many other health issues... Six years ago I found climbing... ​
  • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson ​(By Stefani Dawn) - When Claire announced that she was going back to Bozeman, friends and family initially questioned her choice. They wondered, “Why not go back to San Francisco where there is a large representation of transgender people? Why place yourself into a community that is full of homophobia and transphobia?” “Because I love it there,” was her response. “Because I climb rocks, ice, and mountains. I cannot separate being trans from my climbing.”
  • Mt. Logan Solo: When Passion Overcomes Fear (by Monique Richard) - Monique is driven by the freedom of climbing and climbing solo is the ultimate freedom, which also bears the most risk. Monique shares her emotional and epic tale of tackling Mt. Logan, the tallest peak in Canada (19,551 ft/5959 m). In her words: "It was the culmination of all my ascents and expeditions to the four corners of the globe...in the most hostile conditions that I have encountered in my mountaineering life." 
  • Multi-Pitch Tips: Why I Carry Two ATC-Style Belay Devices (by Stefani Dawn) - Some might say it's overkill, but I have two great reasons why I carry two guide-mode capable ATC belay devices on all multi-pitch climbs. One of which saves time...
  • My Demon Has a Name (By Jason Glasgow) - Trigger Warning: This story contains references to suicide, sexual abuse, self-harm, violence, and trauma. "Untreated trauma has a way of sneaking up on you, making you take a hard, second look at things. I’d never imagined that daily consideration of suicide could be 'real life' for me, but for years it was. I’d also never imaged that hardened deposits of sand, crystals, and minerals pressed against my fingers and toes could have helped save me, but they did."
  • My Home Crag - Nowra, New South Wales, Australia   ​(By Max Gordon) - ​Nestled in amongst these coastal suburbs of Sydney are a plethora of amazing bullet-hard sandstone crags that are sure to satisfy even the thirstiest of frothers. There’s thin technical face climbing at the Grotto, powerful steep overhangs at South Central, open-hand slopers at Hospital Rocks, and all of the above at Thompson's Point. Whether you like minging down hard on credit card holds or contortionist type gymnastics, Nowra has something to test you.
  • My Husband Climbs Stronger Than Me - (by Stefani Dawn) - I am a woman. I’m a climber. I am strong. My husband is stronger. Is that defeatist or sexist of me to openly admit that?
  •  My Journey to Adaptive Rock Climbing (by Enock Glidden) - Enock shares path of exploration, determination, and perseverance to let no fences stop him from adventure, including climbing.
  • Natalie and Jeantique - Natalie and Jeantique are climbers based out of London, England. In this interview they share the story of how they found each other through climbing, the role of climbing in their lives, and how they navigate through Jeantique's health condition called hypermobile Ehlers Danlos Syndrome (hEDS). hEDS affects collagen and connective tissues throughout the body and it's effects of hEDS are systemic, life-long, and life-altering. But climbing helps Jeantique in unique ways.  ​
  • Navajo Rising  (By Aaron Mike) - ​Diné Bahane’, the Navajo creation story, tells of the journey through three worlds to the Fourth World, where the Navajo people now reside. In the Fourth World, the Diné would assume human form after gaining greater intelligence and awareness. This is a story of evolution, the author's evolution into a climbing guide, and our climbing community's evolution into our Fourth World of greater awareness. 
  • New River Gorge, West Virginia: America's Newest National Park (By Matt Brewer, Photos By Claire Wright and Jessica King) - ​Go on a photographic and descriptive tour of the iconic east coast climbing area the New River Gorge, West Virginia - America's Newest National Park. 
  • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb (by Stefani Dawn) - When my husband and I quit our jobs and started our own rock climbing-related business, we lost our health insurance. This definitely impacted how we approached our climbing (and some of it's embarrassingly funny).
  • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws (by Juan Rodriguez) - A climber has a Wile E. Coyote moment as he is suspended mid-fall, in disbelief, quickdraw in hand.
  • Onsight vs. Flash vs. Redpoint vs. Pinkpoint vs. Tronsight - (by Stefani Dawn) An incredibly serious tongue-in-cheek discussion about the nuanced differences between these "you either did it -- or you didn't" sending terms.
  • Overcoming a Brain Tumor: Interview With WeighMyRack Founder Alison Dennis - Alison shares her experience with brain cancer and climbing's role in her recovery. ​
  • Ozymandias Direct - Fifty Years of Fun and Games (A Memoir by First Ascentionist Geoffry Gledhill) - ​Common Climber is honored to have this special 50-year memoir by first ascentionist Geoffrey Gledhill of the mega classic Aussie climb Ozymandias Direct. Geoffrey takes us through his experience on the first ascent, his 25th anniversary ascent, his thoughts on freeing the climb, and his subsequent repeats - including 50 years later.
  • Paraclimbing Competitions: Athlete Interviews (by Enock Glidden) - Enock Glidden shares some history and basics of paraclimbing competitions, as well as, fun interviews of paraclimbing athletes Ben Mayforth and Molly Ferris.
  • PHOTOGRAPHERS & ARTISTS:
    • A - Adaptive Climbing Photo Feature: Paradox Sports - Paradox Sports is a non-profit organization that supports adaptive climbing across the U.S. Check out these amazing photos and learn more about this incredible organization. ​
    • ​A - Brook Anderson (Portland, OR) - Brook has a great eye and a smart-ass sense of humor both of which show themselves in this interview. Explore some of Brook's other images and learn about some boundaries Brook has overcome in her climbing. 
    • B - Florian Beyer (Germany) - Florian goes by the French version of a biochemical name - Lepyruvate (or pyruvic acid). In this interview we learn about the critically important role of pyruvic acid in life, along with Florian's other passions - crag development and water treatment.​​
    • B - Michael Blowers - (Tasmania, Australia) - Michael lives in Tasmania and loves to capture the unique settings of the local crags. In his interview he fills us in on how he ended up in Tasmania, what he thinks about the climbing there, and where he would take us if we went to visit there for the first time. Check out the interview along with some awesome photos that fill up the page!
    • ​B - Phillip Booth (Sydney, Australia) - Phillip Booth is the Featured Photographer for our print Anthology. We have full-page and two-page spreads of his incredible work for you to enjoy in only the the way print media allows. But Phillip's talents need to be spread far and wide, so we also share his work, accompanied by an interview, with you here on our digital pages. In this interview, Phillip speaks of being a climber first and photographer second. He also talks about honoring the climb in the photograph (“What makes this route special? Why do people love climbing it?”) We invite you explore the humility in Phillip’s words, then immerse yourself in the content of his photos - see how his “being a climber first” and “honoring the climb” mentality are expressed so beautifully in his images.  ​
    • B - ​Guillaume Borga is a climbing photographer from St-Nicolas de Véroce in France. Guillaume takes incredible photos that capture the intensity and atmosphere of climbing. Check out his interview and incredible shots!
    • B - Michaël Bortoluzzi (Western Australia) - Michaël was born in France, spent a lot of time as a kid in the U.K., and currently lives in Western Australia (near Perth). Michaël is our featured photographer for this combined August/September 2021 edition. Through his photos we see a unique side of Australian climbing that's often over looked - Western Australia. Hop inside, get stoked for Western Australia and learn a little more about this multi-lingual climbing and photographer adventurer along the way. ​
    • B - Michael Bretz  (Memphis, Tennesse) - A photographer based out of Memphis, Tennessee, with a brief stint in Washington State. Michael began photography as a teenager and was formally trained in photography in vocational school and college, then moved into an E-commerce photography career. When the climbing bug struck, it was a natural extension to bring climbing photography into the mix. Read more about Michael - he's a dad and a climbing guide - and find out his photography tips and tricks, in additional to where he likes to climb. 
    • C - Karen Chan (Hong Kong) - ​Karen Chan is a rock climbing photographer based in Hong Kong. Karen has an incredibly vibrant style that captures both expression and the unique scenery of the area. Read her interview and see some of her awe-inspiring photos!
    • C - Matt Cunningham is a multi-facited photographer, climber, and musician from Nashville, Tennessee. ​He does portraits, artistic shots, photos of the music scene, and incredible climbing photography in the southeastern United States.
    • D - Daga Dygas (Poland & England) - Common Climber feature photographer Daga Dygas takes climbing and bouldering photos in England and Fontainebleau.
    • F - Eric Fallecker (Los Angeles, CA) - Feature photographer Eric Fallecker lives in Los Angeles, CA. He is an introspective person and professional photographer who loves to photograph his Common Climber friends crushing it at nearby crags.
    • ​G - Katherine González is a climber, photographer, and PhD student in Ecology and Evolutionary Biology from Costa Rica. While getting her PhD in Perdue University she climbs at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky and has started a photo documentary series of local immigrants to the U.S. who are also climbers. Her goal is to tell their stories. Read Katherine's personal climbing and immigration story and how she became captivated and learns about the amazing world around us.
    • J- Michelle Ranee Johnson (Fresno, CA) -  Explore some of Michelle's other images and learn their stories, as well as, how Michelle arrived to climbing and climbing photography. 
    • K -  Jethro Kiernan (Snowdonia, Wales) - Jethro Kiernan is a climbing, adventure, and industrial photographer out of Snowdonia, Wales in the United Kingdom. He has won awards for his photography and been published in numerous journals across the world, including National Geographic. When you take a look at his photos, you can see why. Check out our interview of Jethro and learn about - and view - some of the rock climbing and mountaineering in Wales.
    • K - Christine Kuebler - "I never intended on becoming an alpine climber. If you went back in time and told me this is what I’d be doing in my life I would have laughed at you." An artist and mother redefines herself after some heart-breaking life-events. 
    • L - Shawn Lee - Shawn Lee is a climber, illustrator, and graphic designer from Toronto, Canada. He has some incredible drawings of strong climbers of color. Shawn is the feature artist in our "Honoring Diversity" issue and, in his interview, he describes what it's like being Chinese Canadian in the time of COVID-19. 
    • L - LieseLotte P - (Belgium/Europe) - Common Climber interviews climber and photographer LieseLotte P who was born and raised in Belgium, but has been traveling Europe in her van climbing and taking photos. LieseLotte is an artist and performer. You can see that creativity in her work. She has composed a series of thematic climbing photo exhibits, which are shared as part of this interview. One of the exhibits explores the female body and feminism. ​​
    • L - Jim Lin - (Taiwan) - Our Featured Photographer, Jim Lin shares his story and incredible climbing photos of this island - his home - and where/how to climb in Taiwan.
    • M - Lindsey Mathewson - Common Climber interviews climber and artist Lindsey Mathewson. Lindsey lives in Wisconsin (her home crag is Devil's Lake) and works with a variety of artistic media and highlights areas where we love to climb! Explore some of Linsey's art and learn a little more about her passion for climbing. 
    • M - Alex Messenger (England) - With a unique photographic style, this is one to see. 
    • N - Tiffany Nardico - (Lives on the Road) Climber, Caver, Canyoneering adventure photographer - Tiffany has quite a story.
    • O - Karmelo Onate - "Mountains...I want to draw it" - ​A moving and poetic piece about what drives Kamelo to his artistry... "I make a rectangle with the fingers of my gloved hands and I frame that image of her approaching, with zombie step, staggering, and... I want to draw it! I want to draw that wind, the sound of blowing gusts that lift chunks of ice that stick like tiny projectiles, that unnatural posture enduring the thrust of nature that tries to reject her from his domains."
    • O - Camila Ospina - (Bogota, Colombia) Colombian climber and photographer Camila Ospina takes us on a tour of some of her favorite places to climb and photograph climbing in Colombia.
    • P - Diego Perez - (Liverpool, New South Wales, Australia) - Chef, climber, and hobby photographer who prefers a more natural, unedited style of photography. 
    • S - ​Charlie S. is a climber, photographer, and engineer based out of Las Vegas, Nevada by way of Ogden, Utah and Upstate New York.
    • S - Helmut Schulze -(Dresden located in the state of Saxony, Germany) - Helmut shares photos of the amazing sandstone towers of the Elbe Valley of Germany and the tale of his climbing and photography journey.
    • S - Stephen Smithburger -  (Washington D.C.) - Rock climber and photographer Stephen Smithburger hails from the Washing D.C. area and shares some beautiful climbing photos around the East Coast of the U.S. and beyond.
    • S - Matt Spohn (Portland, OR) - Big wall climber, photographer, poet, and manager of his family-owned climbing gym, Matt Spohn, shares his big wall climbing photos with us.
    • ​V - Laura Vallo - Acrylic and Rope Rug Artist - Laura Vallo is all things landscape - landscape architect, landscape artist, and climber. She has turned her artistry, her love of climbing, and post-surgery down-time into amazing custom landscape rope art. See her work and read her interview. 
    • ​W - Joel Wilson - (Australia, in his van) - Joel Wilson shares some incredible photos of his climbing trip to Bruny Island off the coast of Tasmania. 
    • Z - Eson Zhao - (Sydney, Australia) - Eson Zhao grew up in Hong Kong and China and has lived in Sydney, Australia for 12 years. He takes us on a photo tour of some Sydney-area climbing and beyond, and in his interview, shares his photographic style and what makes him tick.
  • PROFILES:
    • A - Shawn Axelrod (Boulder, CO) - Shawn has a congenital heart condition called Wolff-Parkinson-White Syndrome which has progressed into congestive heart failure. Shawn has been climbing for over 30 years, but has had to make adjustments to his climbing over time because of his health. Shawn remains connected with his love of climbing through his eco-centered business called Climbing Addicts.
    • ​B - Megan Banker (Portland, OR) - Megan is a plus-sized climber who runs a "Plus-Size Rock Climbing Meetup" group to connect plus-sized climbers with each other and to experience the wonderful world of climbing. 
    • B - Wendy Bruere (Sydney, Australia) - ​More Than It Hurts: An Interview with Co-Editor Wendy Bruere - More Than It Hurts...and other stories of (mis)adventure by womxn who climb and mountaineer is a collection of personal stories by women and people of diverse genders who rock-climb and mountaineer. The book was launched in December 2020 by editors Wendy Bruere and Emily Small and grew out of an idea editor Wendy had during COVID-19 restrictions in Sydney, Australia. Common Climber interviews Wendy to learn more about her, this book, and the process to bring it to fruition. 
    • D - Favia Dubyk (Albuquerque, NM) - Favia Dubyk is strong. She's a V12 boulderer, an American Ninja Warrior, a cancer survivor, and a Harvard-trained physician. Check out her interview, incredible photos of her climbing, and videos of her strength and indomitable spirit. ​​
    • H - Lindsey Hamm​ (Bishop, CA) (Interview By Enock Glidden) - ​Lindsey Hamm is a mountain guide based out of Bishop, California. She has a strong Instagram following who love to see her photos of sending; She was a competitor in the Titan Games; She lives out of her camper; And, her absolute favorite food is chicken. Read on to learn more about this confident, mountain spirit!
    • M - Josie McKee: Training the Mind for Joy (By ​Kaybe Loughran) - Josie McKee was speed climbing the Nose with Quinn Brett when Quinn's accident happened. Josie's YOSAR training paid off that day, but the mental and emotional toll of such a personal event lead Josie to some new directions in climbing.
    • M - Marisa Michael - Nutrition for Climbers - Climbing dietician Marisa Michael shares how climbing nutrition needs to vary between types of climbers (bouldering versus trad, for example), common nutrition mistakes climbers make, and more. 
    • P - Dave Parry (U.K.) - Author and Photographer of the Grits Blocs Book - Dave Parry is a photographer, climber, and author. In this interview he shares his love of gritstone bouldering and what it was like to write his first climbing book, Grit Blocs.
    • P - Sabine Pratt Hunziger (Sydney, Australia) - The extraordinary story of a climber and fall survivor. 
    • S - Caitlin Schokker (New Castle, Australia) - Common Climber editor Dave Barnes, met Caitlin at Mount Piddington in the Blue Mountains of Australia. She was making light work of a classic middle grade crack climb. Caitlin had buzzing energy and her red hair glowed in the sun like a flame. She has a passion for the game. CC asked Caitlin if she could share and explain her love of climbing. 
    • S - Louise Shepard (Mt. Arapiles, Australia) - Louise was one of the strongest female traditional climbers in the world in the 1980s, establishing numerous FAs and FFAs. Today, at 61, she still rock climbs and guides.
    • T - Mia Tucholke - (Colorado) - Mia Tucholke is an established climber and professional guide in all disciplines of climbing, reaching the highest level of mountaineering instruction. She is based in Colorado and has spent her life developing the skills to lead folks through their mountaineering and climbing goals and hitting many winners along her journey.
  • Psychological First Aid (By Jamie Lange) - Whenever there is a physical injury or accident while climbing, mental stress injury can also occur. This is true not just for the injured person, but also to anyone who witnesses the event or participates in the rescue. In this article psychologist and climber Jamie Lange shares how stress injuries can be mitigated by administering Psychological First Aid either during or immediately following exposure to psychological stress. Jamie describes what is Psychological First Aid and how it can be used to prevent the initiation of survival mode and stress injury formation. 
  • Push and Pull (by Grey Hensley) - There is a common misperception that climbing uses all of our muscles. It doesn’t. Ignoring those other muscles can affect climbing performance. Find out how to easily fix it. ​
  • Quinn Brett Interview (By Enock Glidden) - ​Climber Quinn Brett became paralyzed after a fall when trying to set a new speed record for The Nose in Yosemite. Enock Glidden interviews Quinn who shares what she is doing in her new life and the messages she wishes to share with climbers. ​​
  • Riding the Dirty Dog (By Jack Waterhouse) - ​From Salt Lake City, Utah to El Potrero Chico, Mexico - a climber rides the "dirty dog" for $144 to get on some of the worlds longest bolted climbs. Creative story telling takes you for a ride.  
  • ​Rock! (By Paul Prichard) - ​Multi-award winning book author Paul Prichard shares a very special story about sharing climbing with his son Eli...The day had finally arrived when I could safely take my boy climbing. I had waited a long time for this moment. As a D.A.D. (dad with a disability) it takes a whole lot of planning to do anything adventurous with your kids. I have a brain injury, you see, after a climbing accident twenty-two years ago...
  • Rock Star Groupie (by Stefani Dawn) - A climber finds herself following a route-setting rock star. Who is it and why?
  • Rock Type 1 (By Susan Ramsey) - A rock-climbing family discovered their 7-year old son has type 1 diabetes. They learned to manage the disease while still engaging in rock and alpine climbing and they now share their knowledge and outdoors with others with type 1 diabetes through their non-profit Rock Type 1. 
  • Rope Buying 101 (by Stefani Dawn) - A frank guide (based on experience) to buying your first rock climbing rope and the why’s to back it up.
  • Shit Happens - Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie (By Stefani Dawn) - If you’ve ever read forums about multipitch climbing you’ve probably seen threads (aka. arguments about 30-seconds away from a fist-fight) about best communication practices... Frankly, the simplest way to deal with communication on a multi-pitch climb is to get a freaking walkie talkie... Stef takes you on a mini-epic, illustrating the why of walkie talkies.  
  • Single Pitch Instructor Adaptive: It's About Climbing Independence (by Stefani Dawn) - Rand Abbott has been trying to become a certified guide, but he keeps hearing "no" because he is in a wheelchair. There is a need for leadership and adaptive climbing representation in the guiding world. Rand seeks to overcome these biases against those with disabilities, aiming to develop the first Single Pitch Instructor Adaptive guide certification. In November 2022, Rand also hosted the first adaptive-climber-lead adaptive climbing clinic in partnership with the California Climbing School in Joshua Tree, California. 
  • Sketchy Anchor Bolts! (by Stefani Dawn)  - Sometimes you reach the top of a climb and the anchor bolts are super sketchy. What do you do besides cross your fingers and hope for the best?
  • Sliding-x Anchor (by Stefani Dawn) - Video and photo tutorial on how to build this useful anchor.
  • Snakes and Ladders (by ​David Barnes) - Australia – the land where walking out your front door means you may be bitten, stung, or even killed by any number of critters. Now try it on a climb...
  • Social Climbing Networks Come to the Aid of Lonely Climber (by Stefani Dawn) - Mountain Project and Meetup.com save a lonely climber.
  • Social Pressure, Climbing, and Leave No Trace (By Tanya Dreizen) - ​​Two climbers and academicians wondered, "What is the best way to encourage better stewardship among climbers?" So they created a survey to determine if social pressure, preferred type of climbing, and indoor versus outdoor climbing impacted Leave No Trace Behaviors. 
  • Sorcerer and the Kidney Stone (By Stefani Dawn) - Ow… ow…. Owwwwwww…. I sure as shit am not going to die on Necromancer – the dark black patina-covered wall in Red Rock Canyon named after a person who communicates with the dead…
  • Sojourn at Dyurrite (by Keith Bell) - Every climber has a place they hold dear to their heart, where the memories always remain fresh, and friends become family. Savor Kieth Bell's poetic tribute to one of the most special climbing areas in Australia.
  • Starting Over (by Stefani Dawn) - We all love climbing. We are dedicated to it. We’d do it every day if we could. But face it, we’ve all been there - be it from injury, work demands, location, or lack of partners – we have to start over, again, and again, and again. And it sucks every… single…time...​
  • Summit Fever ​(By Jeff Smoot) - A young, glory-eyed teenage Jeff drags his dad and little brother up a mountain in the fog and rain to bag his very first peak.
  • Sydney: Growing Up ​(By Dave Barnes) - Nothing much happened in the burbs of Sydney growing up in the 80’s. Shoplifting, cheap wine and smoking bongs was culture as was going to the vid shop to grab a movie. Life was cheap and pre-internet the world was small. Climbing entered this time and space for me hence forth, life changed.
  • Take Risks - You'll Remember Them Later ​(By Jess Sanson)​ - An exploration of how climbing memories are formed in the brain and why we remember some better than others.
  • The Adventure of a Lifetime...So far (By Dierdre Wolownick) - "When you think of big wall climbers, it’s not generally an “elderly lady” who comes to mind. That’s what my son, Alex Honnold, called me during my first year of climbing, when he led me and another “elderly lady” friend up Snake Dike on Half Dome. Eight years later, when I climbed El Cap with him, I was even more elderly."
  • The Alps Will Have to Wait (​By Daga Dygas) - ​Erik Schäfer is a climber and the founder of H.O.P.E. (Humanitarian Operations, Provisions, Essentials), who has put his climbing life on hold, dropped his job, and put his studies to one side, to spontaneously concentrate on one thing: bringing help where he can to the people of Ukraine.
  • The Art of Climbing Without Rock: How to Stay Strong and Stay Inspired in a “Climbing Desert” (By Jesse Montgomery) - What happens when life throws you a curve ball and you end up at a location where there is very little climbing nearby? Jesse Montgomery encountered this very thing when stationed in the middle of Georgia and shares a solid plan of how to keep climbing front and center in your life. ​​
  • The Bane of Northwest Climbing (by Stefani Dawn) - @#$% moss! Enough said.
  • The Boy from Bothwell - A Tribute to Max Cutcliffe, An Australian Legend  (By Tony Mckenny) - An Australia climbing legend -Tony McKenny - shares a tribute about Max Cutcliffe - an Australian climbing legend.
  • The Devil’s Game (by Grey Hensley) -  Buddha versus the devil...Improve your climbing by letting a little bit of your devil out!
  • The Dru Derby - A unique three-fer! In 1971, four young Aussie friends go to Chamonix, France to climb the North Face of the Petit Dru (among other things). The Petit Dru is an 800-meter (2,625-feet) mixed rock and ice climb. Keith Bell, John Fantini, Chris Baxter, and Howard Bevan pair up (Keith and John, Chris and Howard) and unknowingly enter into a no-holds-barred race to the top in this challenging terrain with 10+ other parties.  The friends end up losing track of each other while on the mountain and have completely different experiences - each described here in Common Climber in a unique "tale of three climbs" set of stories.  
    • ​Horses for Courses: The Dru Derby 1971 (By Keith Bell) - Keith Bells humorous version of the "Dru Derby."
    • My Drew Derby (By Howard Bevan) - Howard Bevan's light-hearted version of the race to the top - even though he is the one who was injured in the process.
    • The North Face of the Dru: A Reprint from Thrutch (By Chris Baxter) - Chris Baxter's shares a more detailed, more dramatic, account of the story - written not long after it happened. Common Climber is excited to have the originally published version for you here (from the climbing magazine Thrutch in 1971).
  • The Euro-Death Knot is NOT (by Rick Momsen) - Shrouded in myth, misnomers, and misinformation, the Euro-Death Knot (Flat Overhand Bend) is NOT a death knot. Simply stated it is a quick, safe, and easy way to join two ropes together for a rappel.
  • The Eye (By Reagan Solt) - Teen author and gym-team climber Reagan Solt shares the story of the first time she climbed outside at Horseshoe Ranch in Arkansas and bit off more than she could chew.​
  • The First Climbing Gym Union? (By Stefani Dawn) - ​​A group of dedicated climbing gym employees are trying to start the first climbing gym union. 
  • The Fourth Bolt of Texas Radio ​(By James Crump) - It took a lot to get to that location where a fourth bolt could be placed on the steep, lichen-covered slab... "Drill, hammer, swing, tap and drill, pawing feet and hammering, a three-hit rhythm to the terror. My mind thinks of the beat-chanting roars of a stadium - 'Block that kick! Block that kick!' Paw, drill, hammer, paw, drill, hammer. My calves are burning like a finite resource." James Crump keeps us on the edge of our seat, with details and humor, of his first ascent of Texas Radio - but there is more to that fourth bolt. It sets off a revolution.
  • The Guidebook (By Kirby Walke) - Toss together a family road trip, a guidebook, some serendipity, and a love of llamas and you just might get a little rock climbing magic. ​
  • The Hangglider Incident (By James Crump) - Climbing pot-pipes? Cops? Hanggliders? Texas climbing legend James Crump tells a tale like no other. This story is no exception. Be ready to laugh - and be shocked - in disbelief as this larger-than-life Texas climbing tale unfolds. 
  • The Immaculate MOAC: A Tribute to John Brailsford ​(By Keith Bell) - The MOAC was the first modern tapered nut design created for climbing. John Brailsford, the inventor and maker of the Acorn and MOAC chockstone, passed away in early 2022 and Keith Bell provides a wonderful tribute, honoring John's contributions to our climbing world. 
  • The Kenyan Climber (By Kang-Chun Chang) - The love of climbing is spread by those who love climbing. Sam Mwangi is no exception. Sam is a passionate advocate for climbing in Kenya,  where, indeed you are surrounded by the acacia tree-studded savannah and can spot giraffes, dik diks, gazelles, zebras, and even hyenas on the approach. Read about how Sam has been building a climbing community in Nairobi and what he envisions for the future.
  • The Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’  (by Adam Donoghue) - Adam Donoghue takes us to the place that time forgot -The Tyndals in South West Tasmania for some first ascents. ​​​
  • ​The Lineage (By Leslie Kim) - Climber and Dynamite Starfish business owner Leslie Kim reflects upon her Korean-American heritage - a lineage of which she is proud, but also weighs heavy. 
  • The Matterhorn - By Matt Tredway - Ahhh, climbing the Matterhorn in the summer..."A few hikers, seeing the climbing gear on our backpacks, offered warnings: 'The mountain is closed, you should turn back... You can catch the gondola.' That conjured up the movie scene from Vacation, when John Candy, security guard at Wally World, delivered bad news to the Griswald family: "Sorry folks, park's closed!” We had accounted for this, and were prepared we assured them..."
  • The ONE Item to Stockpile (by Stefani Dawn) - As climbers we love our equipment, but of all the gear we use there is ONE item worth stockpiling. 
  • The Pink Tricam (By Emma Renly) - Author Emma Renly describes her first trad lead, and how the pink tricam was both her downfall and her saving grace. 
  • ​The Sinai Sampler: Climbing Egypt (By Radek Chalupa) - Radek Chalupa and his wife take their climbing vacations in remote areas of the world. Despite COVID's grip on the world, they were able to sneak away to Egypt. Here they take us along for the climb, sharing some of the highlights in this photo essay.  
  • The Space Between  (By Alison Singer) - A love poem for a climber by  climber.
  • The Tape Job (By Jeff Smoot) - Double amputee Hugh Herr experiences equipment malfunction while working on the First Free Ascent of the Leavenworth, WA roof crack "Early Morning Overhang/Flight of the Valkyries."
  • The Taste of Climbing: The Third Sense (By ​David Barnes) - A climber describes climbing from a unique perspective - taste.
  • The Three Sisters (by Bavali "Megs" Hill) - Nineteen-year-old Bavali does her first multi-pitch climb on the West Face of the Three Sisters and reflects on the Aboriginal origin story of the rocks. 
  • The Migrant Pom on Rysavy Ridge (by Tony McKenny - First Ascentionist) - ​Tony McKenny is a Brit (aka. Pom) who transplanted to Tasmania. In this story he shares an entertaining account (originally published in 1978) of his first ascent of the now popular and classic Tasmanian climb on Mt. Roland called "Rysavy Ridge."
  • ​The Unreasonable Man (By Wayne Willoughby) - The Unreasonable Man is a touching story of sheer will, persistence, ambition, and, most of all, a love of climbing. The author, who was struck by Polio at a young age, battles major surgeries, significant injuries, and a deteriorating body from Post Polio syndrome. Yet, he sets big wall speed records and climbs numerous big walls per year. ​
  • The 5.10 Commandments (By Carrot) -  ​Struggling with the COVID quarantine and the muscle loss that comes with it, Carrot creates the 5.10 Commandments for post-quarantine climbing. 
  • ​Things of Stone and Wood (by Dave Barnes) - A tree is lodged smack-dab in the middle of Dave’s new climb. The author struggles with whether to remove the tree of leave it, taking us on a thoughtful journey of trees and climbing. 
  • Throng of Roland (By Keith Bell) - ​In 1965 Keith Bell was on his way to another Tasmanian climb when the steep, craggy Mt. Roland caught his attention. Mt. Roland planted itself in his mind like a seed, just waiting for the perfect time to come to fruition. Back home on the mainland of Australia, years passed and the seed just sat there. Every few years or so, though, Mt. Roland - and the eventual classic climb Rysavy Ridge - would enter into Keith's radar, nudging him to come. Keith tried to get there to climb it several times, but the stars never aligned. Finally, in 2021, the seed blossomed and Keith shares his experience on Rysavy Ridge. 
  • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip (By Stefani Dawn and Rick Momsen) - A photo and video tutorial on how to use a stick clip to: (1) Clip a draw (with the rope) to the first bolt (the basic clip); (2) Insert the rope into an empty draw already on a bolt; and (3) Remove a draw from an overhead bolt.
  • Thumbing The Nose at Mr. C.F. Jingus (By Alex Barlow) - Author Alex Barlow takes us on a big-wall journey up The Nose of El Capitan, where a budding friendship, a failing marriage, and a battle with alcohol, age, and Mr. C.F. Jingus form the backdrop of his climb. ​
  • ​Tim Macartney-Snape: A Legend from Sea to Summit (by Dave Barnes) - Australian climbing legend and Sea to Summit founder Tim Macartney-Snape is known for his first ascent line and sea to summit climbs on Everest, but he is a climber who also embraces moderate lines in his Australian backyard.  ​​​
  • ​Tiptoeing Through Some Bungles (By Keith Bell) - It took a while for author Keith Bell to finally get on the Australian classic climb "Tiptoe." He takes us on the journey, which some might call a "bungle," that finally got him there, as well as the ultimate incredible climbing experience with a good friend. 
  • Todd Gordon (by Stefani Dawn) - “We had teenie weenies and big egos!” he said with animation and a Cheshire grin. This is Todd Gordon, the rock climbing "mayor" of Joshua Tree.
  • Tombstone Territory (By Keith Bell) - ​Tombstone Wall is a classic John Ewbank 15 (5.7) on Mt. Piddington in the Blue Mountains of Australia. Keith Bell takes us on a tour of this fine line. This is the last article in a three-part series highlighting classic climbs of Mt. Piddington.
  • Tony Calderone (by Stefani Dawn) - Perseverance. Tenacity. Grit. Commitment. Transformation. These are the words that describe what I know of Tony Calderone. Controversial. Opinionated. And, perhaps a few other choice words, also float around the rock-climbing ethers of his stomping grounds in Utah and Idaho. Who is Tony Calderone?
  • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices (by Stefani Dawn) - Being a better climber doesn't mean crushing the hardest grades, it means consistently using best practices. Find out the TOP 10!
  • Top 10: Increase the Climbing Grade When... (by Stefani Dawn) - A climber ponders climbing grades and invents a new game…Increase the climbing grade when...
  • Trad Climbing is for Chicken Sh*#s (by Stefani Dawn) - A trad climber, who is on the lower end of the bravery scale, explains why trad climbing is good for those who get scared easily.
  • Training for Mt. Rainier: Adaptive Climbing (by Enock Glidden) - Training and planning for a mountaineering expedition requires a lot no matter what, but when you are an adaptive climber it becomes a whole new level of dedication and effort.
  • ​Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quarantraining (By Brianna Boney) - ​Behavior change expert Brianna Boney provides clear, helpful tips on how to build mental toughness during CoVID quarantine (that can be applied to climbing or life beyond) . 
  • ​Trying to Send This Route: Getting Through the COVID-19 Crisis Without Climbing (by Heather Supinie) - ​Climber and blogger Heather Supinie shares her experiences with the CoVID shutdown, including being an employee of a climbing gym.
  • Vedauwoo, Wyoming: Inverted Offwidth, Cracks and a Chimney – Oh My! (by Melissa Kline) - A climber shares her offwidth, crack, and chimney experience in the mystical place that is Vedauwoo.
  • Vertical Ice Climbing in Ontario, Canada, eh? (By Debbie Fowler) - Debbie Fowler takes us on a tour of ice climbing spots in Ontario, Canada, and shares a few tips on some of the best. Armed with electric socks and gloves to stay warm and avoid the screaming barfies, Debbie has been a busy climber this year!
  • What Two Friends Uncovered in Verdon (By Don McGrath) - ​​Two long-time climbing friends meet up in Verdon, France to experience the long, committing, limestone sport climbs and, in the process, learn a little something new.
  • Welcome Dave Barnes! - In August 2019 Dave Barnes joined Common Climber as an Assistant Editor. Stefani Dawn, the Creator and Editor-in-Chief, introduces Dave and shares the story of how Dave has woken her from her slumber.
  • We Were Just Boys (By Lyle Closs) - "We were just boys. What, for god’s sake, were we doing attempting to climb a 300-metre vertical cliff straight out of the sea with no experience, paltry gear, and nothing by way of adult guidance. Such is spring, when saplings think the rainforest owes them greatness." Two young boys face Tasmania's cliffs, weather, and rough seas in the days before cell phones, sophisticated climbing gear, and how-to YouTube videos.
  • Which Way Should I Carry My Trad Rack? (by Stefani Dawn) - Any f'n way you want! This article discusses the advantages and disadvantages of three different ways to carry a trad rack. Choose the way that works for you.
  • Why I Started Common Climber (by Stefani Dawn) - If the only voice and messages we receive about what being a climber means are the ones we receive from the popular climbing media, then we will almost always be disappointed in ourselves.
  • ​Winter in Verdon (By Frothy Thomson) - The author seeks a unique, quiet, and memorable experience in the normally busy Gorge du Verdon. His, and his climbing-partner's, quest is to climb an obscure route under France's grey skies and cold winter air.
  • WTF 5.7? (by Stefani Dawn) - Some climbing grades, more so than others, are simply unpredictable and can blind-side you.
  • Zac the Interloper (By Keith Bell) - A crag dog holds a special place in a climber's memory - best climbing buddy. Woof. 
  • Zone of Craptitude (by Stefani Dawn) -  A climber enters the zone - a different kind of zone...
  • 8 Reasons I Carry A Full Rack on Every Trad Climb (By Stefani Dawn) - "I stood at the bottom of that 40 foot 5.5 crack with my full double rack up to a #5 cam. My friend and climbing partner looked at me with a wry smile, pointed at my excessive gear, and said with a laugh, 'What’s all this? Is there a whole other mountain up there?'"
  • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8 - Now available from State of Readiness - THE definitive online rock climbing training program - 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8!
  • 18 Climber Types: What Type of Climber Are You? (by Stefani Dawn) - It can be helpful to know who you are as a climber.
  • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing (by Erin Collins) - This article takes you climbing around the world - let the adventures begin!

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