Photo Credit: Daga Dygas
Writings are listed alphabetically. Titles that begin with "A" are listed under "A" and "The" are listed under "T."
- A Climb Worth Fighting For (by Michael Sirianni) - A Climb Worth Fighting For... "It’s a sense of self-confidence that can only be earned through this personal journey, told by the movements on the wall, or a problem that roadblocks our life...." This is a tale of the personal journey, we as climbers can understand.
- A N00bie Climber's Story (By Debbie Fowler) - Common Climber Debbie Fowler started climbing at a later stage in life - quickly moving from the gym to big walls
- A Shift on Moonlight Buttress (By Laur Sabourin) - Some climbs are so demanding that they strip away every internal barrier, leaving the essence of who we are and then transforming us into who we knew we could be. Laur Sabourin shares a moving tale of some monumental shifts while climbing Moonlight Buttress.
- A Unique, Big City Crag: Buenos Aires, Argentina Climbing (By Stefani Dawn) You’ve probably never seen a crag like this one!
- Achilles (by Naomi Gibbs) - Author Naomi Gibbs shares a moving story of an achilles rupture that occurred when climbing her multi-year project.
- Advocating for Deaf Climbers: Sonya Wilson - A very informative interview with rock climber and Deaf climber advocate, Sonya Wilson. Learn more about her story, but also the many things that we can do to better support the Deaf.
- Alien Sex Toy... Or How the Alien Got Its Name (By Jeff Smoot) - Jeff Smoot dredges up some long forgotten - or perhaps never known - history of how the now-infamous Alien cam actually got its name...
- Amputations: Leg Prosthesis for Climbing (By Szu-Pin Lee, PhD) - If you've ever wondered how a leg prosthesis works, especially for rock climbing, read on! Learn the basics and feel comfortable asking questions of fellow climbers who might happen to have an amputated limb.
- Andrew Penny - A Blue Mountaineer (By Dave Barnes) - Andrew Penny is a legend in the Blue Mountains of Australia. Andrew rode the wave of change in the Blue Mountains ushering in sport climbing But, he also made sure to bolt easy to moderate climbs that are accessible to all climbers. Dave Barnes gives us a tour of this Australian climbing legend.
- Anti-Social Climbers (by Leesa Gallia) - A humorous poem about climbing addiction.
- Assault on Schurman Rock (By Jeff Smoot) - Author Jeff Smoot heads to a local Seattle outdoor climbing wall, Schurman Rock (the oldest known purpose-built artificial climbing wall in the world), for some peaceful laps - not today! A light-hearted climbing story with a little history thrown in.
- Backpacker/Trad Climber Tries Alpine: The Mt. Ogden Spanking (Part 1) (by Stefani Dawn) - An experienced backpacker and multipitch trad climber forays into to world of alpine climbing and learns that alpine climbing is more than the sum of its parts.
- Backpacker/Trad Climber Tries Alpine: The Mount Whitney Whipping (Part 2) (by Stefani Dawn) - Mt. Ogden (Part 1) was training for Mt. Whitney. The author applied what she learned from the Mt. Ogden experience to Whitney and...
- Blind Ambition Builds a World Class Climber: The Story of Jesse Dufton (By Dave Barnes) - United Kingdom climber Jesse Dufton has Rod-Cone Dystrophy, a genetic disorder where his eyes do not have the structural support for the light sensitive cells at the back of the eye. This has slowly eroded his vision, taking him into the world of climbing blind. Jesse, who has been climbing since a young age, has adapted - and he still leads trad.
- Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys (by Stefani Dawn) - Epics, mini-epics, near-epics, and zones of craptitude make for good stories...But, most of the time things are pretty dang chill. Fun. Enjoyable. Cool. Sometimes there is even bliss.
- Bolting and Ground-fall Potential (by Stefani Dawn) - Learn how to visually determine whether a bolted sport climb is poorly protected.
- BOOK REVIEWS:
- Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques (Book by Topher Donahue) - Review By: Keith Bell
- Adventures at the Edge of the World: The Epic Story of Tasmanian Rock Climbing by Gerry Narkowicz and Simon Bischoff (Editors). Review By: Keith Bell
- Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14 (Book by Jeff Smoot) - Review By: Stefani Dawn
- HOOKING UP: The Ultimate Big Wall and Aid Climbing Manual (Book by Fabio Elli & Peter Zabrok) - Review By Dave Barnes
- Climbing Rock: Vertical Explorations across North America (Book by Francois Lebeau and Jesse Lynch) - Review By: Keith Bell
- Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss (Book By David Smart) - Review By: Jeff Smoot
- Book Review: The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story (Book By Dierdre Wolownick) Review By Stefani Dawn
- Uncoiling the Rope (Book by Clare Sheridan) Review by Dave Barnes
- Bouldering for Beginners: Fear of Falling (by Stephanie Bahnsen) - How do you overcome the fear of falling when bouldering? By learning how to fall correctly.
- Bouldering Grade Advancements (by Stephanie Bahnsen) - A few simple tips to climb a harder grade. But in our rush to improve, there are a couple realities that we often ignore...
- Bouldering: JTree Made Me Do It (by Stefani Dawn) - The author has been rock climbing since 2007 and has intended to boulder, but other than an occasional gym session, never seemed to get around to it - until now -- "JTree made me do it."
- California Still has Untouched Climbing Wilderness (by Brice Pollock) - Brice takes you on an adventure up Mattes Crest in the High Sierras of California and shows how California still has remote, high quality climbing adventures.
- Calling Pat Ament (By Jeff Smoot) - An adventure story of two young climbers just trying to find a place to sleep.
- Cam Ranges (+ Big Bros) (By Rick Momsen) - A useful (and quite pretty) spreadsheet showing the ranges of every cam (and big bro) available as of May 2020. Gear nerds - enjoy!
- Can’t Find A Better Man: The Story of Saxon Johns and a Climb he Believes is "Better Than Life" (by Dave Barnes) - An Australian climbing legend that's apparently about as nice as he is strong.
- Carabiner Strength Ratings (by Juan Rodriguez) - A helpful tutorial on carabiner strength ratings and why those ratings are important.
- Chossy Trio Renegades (by Dave Barnes) - What do you get when you assemble a group of climbing friends and add beer? You get the Chossy Trio Renegades who decided their contribution to “saving the world” is bringing climbers outside and showing them how to rock.
- Claiming a Space on the Mountain (By Wayne Branch) - Wayne Branch shares his experience of being a black climber through his ascent of Mt. Rainier.
- CLIMBING CHECK LIST
Work your way down the list and hit every single climbing area in a state that has more than 40 climbs! The list shows the number of climbs that are bouldering, sport, or trad. - Climbing, Community, and the U.S. Presidential Election (by Stefani Dawn) - A rock climber explores the importance of rock climbing and community in light of the 2016 U.S. Presidential election.
- Climbing Drinking Games (by Stefani Dawn) - Have a little fun with: Guidebook Roulette; 15 Minutes My A**! and "Nice!" at the Crag.
- Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky (An Interview with locals Joe Matin and Brice Burton) - Locals Joe Martin and Brice Burton share their efforts to conserve the Daniel Boone National Forest in southern Kentucky (which is threatened by logging) by promoting local climbing spots and establishing the non-profit Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project. Learn more about this local area and download a guidebook.
- Climbing is My Art (by Christine Kuebler) - "I never intended on becoming an alpine climber. If you went back in time and told me this is what I’d be doing in my life I would have laughed at you." An artist and mother redefines herself after some heart-breaking life-events.
- Climbing Gyms: The Gateway Drug (by Stefani Dawn) – WARNING: Climbing may be addictive. Sort of.
- Climbing Hands (By David Barnes) - A climber's hands are conductors which earth us as we climb. Our feet back them up. A climber’s hands are the touch-stone of our climbing lives. If you’re into tender and supple hands, don’t take up climbing.
- Climbing in the Bare Essentials (By Stewart M. Green) - There are First Ascents (FAs), and then there are First Naked Ascents (FNAs). Stewart M. Green gives tells the tale of a FNA at the granite slabs of Whitehorse, New Hampshire.
- Climbing Into the Fold (by Juan Rodriguez) - How climbing and the people of climbing helped restore one person’s faith in himself and humanity.
- Climbing Resolutions: A New Year's Conversation with Myself (by Stefani Dawn) - A climber has a New Year's conversation with herself...Can you relate?
- Climbing Through Family Stages (by Lani Wilson) - Tips for climbing through pregnancy, toddlers, and beyond. Having children doesn't have to stop you - find out how to keep going!
- Climbing With Type 1 Diabetes (By Lori Miles) - Type 1 Diabetes may not be something that would typically come to mind when you think of adaptive climbing, but adaptive climbing means having to make significant adjustments for a condition that affects you on a daily basis. Lori Miles explains how Type 1 Diabetes impacts her life, climbing, and the adaptations she has to make to ensure she can climb safely.
- Colorblind (By Juan Rodriguez) - For our "Honoring Diversity" edition Juan shares a video of his experiences as a Mexican American and his encounters with police. Through his thoughtful dialogue, Juan shares ways we can move forward as friends, neighbors, and a community regarding matters of race.
- Consolation Prize (By Hugh Ward) - Two adventurous climbers seeking a first ascent , get benighted, skunked, and a little consolation prize tossed in.
- COVID Climbing Memes (By Bad Beta Bouldering) - Memes almost always makes things a little lighter, don't they? Here's a little humor to help get us through some challenging times.
- Dear Memory (By Matt Spohn) - Climber, climbing photographer, and talented writer Matt Spohn captures a very, very moving moment in CoVID time.
- Demented Dirt Bag (By David Barnes) - The scruffy looking peeps who have darkened hands from anodised carabiners, weird looking toes from being cramped in climbing shoes for way too long and blunt everything’s, from ice axes to pocket knives. They have scavenged hands from getting their jam in cracks. These climbers have given up on normal and live for the climb. These demented ones are The Dirtbags.
- Developer - Mitch Lehman (Interview By Stefani Dawn) - Mitch Lehman shares his experiences developing a new crag in the Piney Creek Gorge in Beckley, West Virginia. Mitch worked closely with local organizations and government agencies to create a crag for all levels and for teaching. He provides an excellent example of community-based crag development.
- Diversity in Climbing (& the Outdoors) is Not a Bandwagon (By Stefani Dawn) - Diversity is not a bandwagon. Bandwagon implies short-lived popularity. This is a movement to create some needed shifts in our sociological landscape. So what are some things we can do as this landscape changes?
- Dolomites (By Matt Tredway) - "My Italian climbing partner was a friend-of-friends...The 45ish, burly Italian scoffed, and said, 'Those sport climbers. They are like the kids today… too lazy to buy the sausage and cut it up… they want it pre sliced. They want to have hard grades, a planned route, no thinking, and don't even look around at the views!' I gulp a little, and nodded - knowing in the back of my mind that Shelf Road is a sport crag I've climbed a couple times a year since forever."
- Don't Take Granite for Granite (by Stefani Dawn) - Every new crag and rock type brings a unique experience. But one type of rock - granite - is the most unpredictable.
- Dorothy, We Aren't On Havanah Anymore (by Stefani Dawn) - Have you ever gotten on the wrong climb and realized it a little too late?
- Drew and Sarah Hulsey - Newly-weds and new climbers Drew and Sarah Hulsey of Nashville, Tennessee, share their perspectives on being new climbers and how climbing enters into their relationship.
- Drytooling in the Rain - Wayne's World, Washington (By Wayne Wallace) - What do you do when you when you are an ice climber and "suffer from poor- to- no ice; near-constant rain nine months of the year; closed gyms due to COVID; damp, moss-covered rock; short rock seasons; AND, right now (also due to COVID), can’t even enter Canada..."? You learn how to dry tool and gather a community together and build your own nearby crag. Welcome to Wayne's World!
- EQUIPMENT/GEAR REVIEWS
- Arc'teryx FL-365 - ultra thin, ultra light harness.
- CAMP, Daisy Twist - Find out why this is the author's all-time favorite PAS.
- Dr. Piton's Review of the D4 Delta2P Portaledge (By Peter Zabrok) - Peter Zabrok, aka. Dr. Piton, has slept over 800 nights on El Capitan, with 200 (or so) of them on the D4 portaledges made by John “Deucey” Middendorf. Peter gave the new Delta2P ledge a go and shares his thoughts on this unique "cantilever" design that has the short side up against the wall. Check out Piton Pete's lively review!
- Edelrid Mega Jul - A unique, light, stainless steel assisted braking belay device.
- Misty Mountain, Cadillac Quick Adjust - A broad, padded style harness with lots of gear loops.
- Petzl Dual Adjust Personal Anchor System - When I first discovered the Petzl Dual Adjust personal anchor system (PAS) I thought I was in PAS heaven...I loved it - until I bought one and used it.
- Trango Crag Pack - Find out why this reviewer wonders why she waited so long to buy a crag-specific pack.Sukoa Chalk Bag Review - Is there a chalk bag that really outdoes the others? Why yes there is. Find out why
- El Capitan (By Enock Glidden) - Enock, a paraplegic climber with Spina Bifida, takes us on his journey to climb El Capitan in Yosemite, CA.
- Everyone Around Me Is Better Than I Am (By Tony Ferrar) - Tony Ferrar describes his struggle with sending a route that others walked up to and did as a warm up. He takes us through the ego-driven blackhole of comparing ourselves with others and shares some helpful mental tips.
- Fear, Pride, and Exploration (by Tony Ferrar) - So much of climbing is mental - it's how we frame our experience. Tony Ferrar takes us on a journey of progression in climbing moving from fear to pride to exploration.
- Finding Poetry (by Alex Willis) - Alex Willis takes us on a journey with prose, images, and poetry. He says, "I have discovered that awe is a vital nutrient that must be shared for a meaningful life. For those willing, know that it dissolves well in ink. With poetry, we can join the nervous systems of strangers like the roots of aspens so that this nutrient can be shared." This beautiful work is one to be read slowly and savored.
- First Paralyzed Ascents: Rand Abbott (Interview by Enock Glidden) - Rand Abbott is a climber in Joshua Tree, California who has numerous First Paralyzed Ascents in the park. Rand shares his thoughts and experiences in an interview with Enock Glidden. Local JTree legend and long-time climbing partner with Rand, Todd Gordon, chimes in too...
- Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited (By Keith Bell) - Iconic climbs are ones that capture your eye, inexplicably draw you towards them, and are a test piece for climbers across generations. Flake Crack, on Mount Piddington in the Blue Mountains of Australia, is one of those climbs. Look at that photo and see why - now experience the journey.
- From Couch to Lifting Couches (By Lisa Vitaris) - Australian climber Lisa Vitaris shares the myriade of physical activities she did - or attempted to do - during quarantine.
- From Yorkshire to Eternity (By Keith Bell) - Australian author and climber Keith Bell takes us on a journey of the ultra-classic crack climb The Eternity on Mt. Piddington in the Blue Mountains outside of Sydney.
- Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs" (By Stefani Dawn) - I’m just going to say it. Fuck “gumbies” and “noobs.” No, I’m not talking about the people that these words supposedly personify. I’m talking about those words.
- Growing Up (By Jack Waterhouse) - Jack Waterhouse had a vision of climbing and living in Yosemite - maybe forever? Or maybe growing up reshapes you in unexpected ways. Jack takes us on his quest to climb El-Cap and the changing landscape of life and Yosemite.
- Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing (By Melissa Kline) - Author and climbing instructor Melissa Kline also has a hobby as a miniaturist! During COVID quarantine, she got creative. Check out her photos!
- Guide Books Follies (by Stefani Dawn) - Ever had an epic (or a mini) because a guidebook left out important information?
- Hardly Failing (By Wil Treasure) - "Failing" in climbing comes in many forms. Climber Wil Treasure reflects upon one of his best, least epic "failures" on a big climb in Taghia, Morocco. Be transported.
- Improving Hip Mobility and Strength (By Collin McGee) - Hip mobility and strength are critical for high steps in climbing. Physical trainer Collin McGee shares helpful information about how to improve your high-step game.
- How Auto-Immune Disease Affected My Climbing (By Stefani Dawn) -It’s funny, but it’s not. I was on pitch 5 of 9 and I just…how do I put this tactfully?... shit myself. It wasn’t a lot, but it was uncomfortable, disheartening.
- How to Climb and Avoid the Coronavirus (By Dr. Julian Saunders) - Julian is an accomplished climber, frequent contributor to climbing journals, and offers online Osteopathic consultations for climbers. Here he discusses the possible variations of climbing (or not) during this pandemic. His article is accompanied by some beautiful photos of classic climbs around the world - illustrating how we are all in this together.
- I Am My Father's Son: Layton Bridwell (By David Barnes) - Jim Bridwell (aka. The Bird) is a well-known Stonemaster of Yosemite. Jim passed in the summer of 2018 and now his son Layton is doing the emotional task of sorting through all of his father's things. Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes joins Layton on a cell-phone tour of Jim Bridwell's garage and goes down memory lane of a life-long belaytionship between father and son.
- Is Diversity in America, Diverse? (By Enock Glidden) - Enock Glidden explores the true meaning of diversity and, through the lens of adaptive climbing and sports, asks the question "Is Diversity in America Diverse?"
- It Was His Time: Brad Gobright (Interview May 2019) (By David Barnes) - Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes shares a tribute to and his May 2019 interview with the late Brad Gobright.
- Ice is Nice, Wetter Isn't Better (By Leesa Gallia) - A humorous ode to ice climbing.
- Ice Solo (by Matt Westlake) - Photographer Matt Westlake is asked by a friend to capture his solos up two WI6 ice formations. Matt shares the photos and what goes through his mind...
- Improv at JTree: Three Characters Attack Bad Bolts With Humor, A Device, and Dedication (By Stefani Dawn) - Joshua Tree has been around a long time, and so have many of its bolts. Kevin, John, and "IE," a lean, mean bolt-replacing team, would joke that those things haven't been around as long as they have...
- Introduction to Climbing Shoes: Selecting a Fit (by Juan Rodriguez) – Climbers are often given the advice to buy a tight-fitting climbing shoe. Find out why this might not be your best choice.
- It's a F-ing Chimney (By Stefani Dawn) - I used to avoid chimneys like the plague. If a route description said chimney, I’d move on to find a different route. Here’s why...
- John Middendorf : A Big Man for a Big Stone (By David Barnes) - Suffering from hypothermia on the side of Half Dome in Yosemite during one of the worst storms of the decade, John Middendorf became life-threateningly aware that there were no storm-proof portaledges available at the time. Middendorf, an engineer and big wall climber, resolved to change that.
- Joshua Tree: Heinous Approaches (by Stefani Dawn) - When boulderfield meets desert the approach can be unpredictable - sometimes it's no big deal, sometimes "hell boulderado."
- Joshua Tree: The Bolting Pressure Cooker (by Stefani Dawn) - Meet Farai and Kelly, "new school" route developers in Joshua Tree. For some, using the words “new-school,” “route development”, and “Joshua Tree” all in the same sentence can be hair-raising/red-flag inducing/trouble-making. For others it elicits great relief and gratitude. What exactly does “new school” mean in JTree?
- Kevin Powell: Photos, First Ascents, and Finding Joy (By Stefani Dawn) - He stood on the 5.10 JTree slab, 20 feet up, and drilled the first bolt. This is not your get it over in 15 seconds with a power drill, this is with a hand drill...on lead... slip in these helmet-less days would result in carnage no one wanted to see or experience.
- La Huasteca (By James Crump) - A hilarious and adventurous coming-of-age tale of when a 16-year-old Crump and his buddy Goomba cross the border to Mexico and go adventure climbing in La Huasteca.
- Little Red Riding Hood: The Extraordinary Story of a Climber & Survivor -Sabine Pratt Hunziker (By Dave Barnes) - Sabine Pratt-Hunziker is a rock climbing force with a fighting spirit. She fell about 20 meters in a climbing accident and was put in a coma to survive. Her determination has brought her back to climbing.
- LOCATION (Information & Reviews)
- Here it is! A check list of U.S. climbing areas that have at least 40 routes and shows the number of sport, trad, and bouldering climbs in each area. Use it to plan or check off where you've been!
- Arizona
- Queen Creek, AZ - A sport crag with spires and canyons of welded tuff located 65 miles east of Phoenix, AZ.
- Australia
- Kangaroo Point, Brisbane, Australia - Located smack-dab in the middle of the city, Kangaroo Point is an urban crag with amenities, a view of downtown, and mostly sport single-pitch climbs on rhyolite.
- Nowra, New South Wales, Australia: Yeahs and Neahs - Located about 2.5 hours south of Sydney, Nowra is a sport climber's haven.
- Blue Mountains, Australia - The Blue Mountains are located 1.5-2 hours north of Sydney, Australia. An incredible expanse of sandstone climbing, the Blue Mountains offer everything from single pitch sport cragging to super-long trad multi-pitch. But there is more to the Blue Mountains - some pretty unique characteristics that aren't really found in the U.S.
- California
- Joshua Tree
- Mt. Whitney: [ Mt. Whitney Whipping ] [ Photos and Beta ]
- Mexico - Potrero Chico Review - Yeahs and Neahs - Located about 1 hour outside of Monterrey near Hidalgo.
- Idaho - City of Rocks and Castle Rocks - Yeahs and Neahs - Located in south-central Idaho near the Utah border.
- Nevada
- Red Rock Canyon - Yeahs and Neahs - Sandstone climbing located outside of Las Vegas
- Gun Club - Yeahs and Neahs - Ever wonder what a rainy day (or post rainy day) alternative is for climbing when you are out in Vegas and can't climb Red Rock Canyon?
- Keyhole Canyon - A granite traditional crag 40 miles south of Las Vegas.
- Mt. Charleston - A limestone sport summertime haven 45 minutes outside of Las Vegas.
- New Hampshire
- North Conway, NH - THE classic traditional climbing corridor of New England located on the northeast side of the White Mountains in New Hampshire (about 2.5 NW of Boston. MA). Find out whether this area Rocks! is Worth It!, Meh or Forget About It! as well as tips, yeahs, and neahs.
- Rumney, NH: Yeahs and Neahs - Sport climbing on schist in southern end of the White Mountains in East-Central New Hampshire. Find out whether this area Rocks! is Worth It!, Meh or Forget About It! as well as tips, yeahs, and neahs.
- New York
- The Gunks Review - Yeahs and Neahs - The Gunks are a world-class traditional climbing area located about 2 hours north of New York City. Find out tips, yeahs, and neahs.
- Oregon
- Smith Rock - Yeahs and Neahs - Located near Terrbonne, OR in east, central Oregon (not far from Bend, OR), about 3 hours from Portland.
- Spring Mountain - Yeahs and Neahs - Located in northeast Oregon between Pendleton and La Grande.
- Trout Creek, OR - Yeahs and Neahs - Located in central Oregon east of the Cascades near Warm Springs, about 2.5 hours SE of Portland. About 40 minutes from Smith Rock.
- Utah
- Echo Canyon - Yeahs and Neahs - Located about 45 minutes - 1 hour east of Salt Lake City.
- Ferguson Canyon - Yeahs and Neahs - Located in Cottonwood Heights about 30 miles south of Salt Lake City.
- Ibex - Yeahs and Neahs - Located in Utah's central west desert about 40 miles from the border of Nevada.
- Moab - Located 3.5 hours southeast of Salt Lake City, UT.
- Main - Yeahs and Neahs - Potash Road (279 - includes Wall Street), Kane Springs Canyon (includes Ice Cream Parlor), and Route 313.
- Maple Canyon - Yeahs and Neahs - Located on the east side of the Wasatch mountains about 100 miles south of Salt Lake City, UT.
- West Virgina
- Seneca Rocks, WV - Located in eastern West Virginia about 3 hours from Washington D.C., Seneca Rocks is a dramatic, fin-shaped, quartzite formation that emerges from a mountainside.
- Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise (By Saxon Johns) - The steep limestone walls protrude from the lush Thai jungle, beckoning to be climbed. Just don't forget your headlamp.
- Maggie and Charlie Odette - Together since 2009, Maggie and Charlie Odette dedicate their lives to rock climbing. They live in a tiny camper and seek out steep sport climbing and good weather conditions. Both are over the age of 50 and are crushing 5.14s. Find out how they support each other in their climbing endeavors.
- MARKETPLACE
- Butora (Climbing Shoes)
- Climbing Addicts (Colored Chalk)
- Climb-On Maps (Approach and Walk-Off Maps)
- Dynamite Starfish (Graphic Artist - T-shirts)
- Fixe Hardware (Bolting Hardware, Ropes, Alien Cams, Gear)
- Furnace Industries (Dry Ice/Ice Training Tools)
- Grimpi (Colored Chalk)
- Heroclip (Non-rated clips to hang gear on)
- Mystery Ranch (Climbing backpacks)
- Neilico (Nut Tool)
- NW Alpine (Clothing)
- Rocky Talkie (Rock climbing walkie talkies)
- Tension Climbing (Hangboards, wood climbing holds, sticky rubber shoe spray)
- Maple Canyon: This One Makes You Taller (By Maggie Odette) - At the age of 44 Maggie Odette claimed her first 5.14a. She quit her job, married her climbing parter, and, now, 4.5 years later, became camphost at Maple Canyon so she can project and send T-Rex, a 5.14b at the age of 49. Visit the conglomerate rock of Maple Canyon, UT and experience Maggie's story.
- Mastering Joy on Easy Street (by Stefani Dawn) - Sometimes there are moments when a special experience reveals the right goals.
- Mind, Body, and Soul: Bouldering and Climbing (by Jonathan) - A thoughtful piece about how rock climbing impacts the whole being - mind, body, and soul.
- Mixed Climbing: My Answer to KT Syndrome (By Matt Westlake) - 21 years ago, at the age of 7, I was diagnosed with Klippel Trenaunay (KT) Syndrome - a rare disease that causes my veins to grow uncontrollably like cracks through a shattered window. Blood begins to pool, which causes poor circulation, blood clots, and lymphedema, along with a string of many other health issues... Six years ago I found climbing...
- Montana, My Home: Claire Larson (By Stefani Dawn) - When Claire announced that she was going back to Bozeman, friends and family initially questioned her choice. They wondered, “Why not go back to San Francisco where there is a large representation of transgender people? Why place yourself into a community that is full of homophobia and transphobia?” “Because I love it there,” was her response. “Because I climb rocks, ice, and mountains. I cannot separate being trans from my climbing.”
- Mt. Logan Solo: When Passion Overcomes Fear (by Monique Richard) - Monique is driven by the freedom of climbing and climbing solo is the ultimate freedom, which also bears the most risk. Monique shares her emotional and epic tale of tackling Mt. Logan, the tallest peak in Canada (19,551 ft/5959 m). In her words: "It was the culmination of all my ascents and expeditions to the four corners of the globe...in the most hostile conditions that I have encountered in my mountaineering life."
- Multi-Pitch Tips: Why I Carry Two ATC-Style Belay Devices (by Stefani Dawn) - Some might say it's overkill, but I have two great reasons why I carry two guide-mode capable ATC belay devices on all multi-pitch climbs. One of which saves time...
- My Demon Has a Name (By Jason Glasgow) - Trigger Warning: This story contains references to suicide, sexual abuse, self-harm, violence, and trauma. "Untreated trauma has a way of sneaking up on you, making you take a hard, second look at things. I’d never imagined that daily consideration of suicide could be 'real life' for me, but for years it was. I’d also never imaged that hardened deposits of sand, crystals, and minerals pressed against my fingers and toes could have helped save me, but they did."
- My Home Crag - Nowra, New South Wales, Australia (By Max Gordon) - Nestled in amongst these coastal suburbs of Sydney are a plethora of amazing bullet-hard sandstone crags that are sure to satisfy even the thirstiest of frothers. There’s thin technical face climbing at the Grotto, powerful steep overhangs at South Central, open-hand slopers at Hospital Rocks, and all of the above at Thompson's Point. Whether you like minging down hard on credit card holds or contortionist type gymnastics, Nowra has something to test you.
- My Husband Climbs Stronger Than Me - (by Stefani Dawn) - I am a woman. I’m a climber. I am strong. My husband is stronger. Is that defeatist or sexist of me to openly admit that?
- My Journey to Adaptive Rock Climbing (by Enock Glidden) - Enock shares path of exploration, determination, and perseverance to let no fences stop him from adventure, including climbing.
- Natalie and Jeantique - Natalie and Jeantique are climbers based out of London, England. In this interview they share the story of how they found each other through climbing, the role of climbing in their lives, and how they navigate through Jeantique's health condition called hypermobile Ehlers Danlos Syndrome (hEDS). hEDS affects collagen and connective tissues throughout the body and it's effects of hEDS are systemic, life-long, and life-altering. But climbing helps Jeantique in unique ways.
- Navajo Rising (By Aaron Mike) - Diné Bahane’, the Navajo creation story, tells of the journey through three worlds to the Fourth World, where the Navajo people now reside. In the Fourth World, the Diné would assume human form after gaining greater intelligence and awareness. This is a story of evolution, the author's evolution into a climbing guide, and our climbing community's evolution into our Fourth World of greater awareness.
- No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb (by Stefani Dawn) - When my husband and I quit our jobs and started our own rock climbing-related business, we lost our health insurance. This definitely impacted how we approached our climbing (and some of it's embarrassingly funny).
- Of Cartoons and Quickdraws (by Juan Rodriguez) - A climber has a Wile E. Coyote moment as he is suspended mid-fall, in disbelief, quickdraw in hand.
- Onsight vs. Flash vs. Redpoint vs. Pinkpoint vs. Tronsight - (by Stefani Dawn) An incredibly serious tongue-in-cheek discussion about the nuanced differences between these "you either did it -- or you didn't" sending terms.
- Paraclimbing Competitions: Athlete Interviews (by Enock Glidden) - Enock Glidden shares some history and basics of paraclimbing competitions, as well as, fun interviews of paraclimbing athletes Ben Mayforth and Molly Ferris.
- PHOTOGRAPHERS & ARTISTS:
- A - Adaptive Climbing Photo Feature: Paradox Sports - Paradox Sports is a non-profit organization that supports adaptive climbing across the U.S. Check out these amazing photos and learn more about this incredible organization.
- A - Brook Anderson (Portland, OR) - Brook has a great eye and a smart-ass sense of humor both of which show themselves in this interview. Explore some of Brook's other images and learn about some boundaries Brook has overcome in her climbing.
- B - Florian Beyer (Germany) - Florian goes by the French version of a biochemical name - Lepyruvate (or pyruvic acid). In this interview we learn about the critically important role of pyruvic acid in life, along with Florian's other passions - crag development and water treatment
- C - Karen Chan (Hong Kong) - Karen Chan is a rock climbing photographer based in Hong Kong. Karen has an incredibly vibrant style that captures both expression and the unique scenery of the area. Read her interview and see some of her awe-inspiring photos!
- D - Daga Dygas (Poland & England) - Common Climber feature photographer Daga Dygas takes climbing and bouldering photos in England and Fontainebleau.
- F - Eric Fallecker (Los Angeles, CA) - Feature photographer Eric Fallecker lives in Los Angeles, CA. He is an introspective person and professional photographer who loves to photograph his Common Climber friends crushing it at nearby crags.
- J- Michelle Ranee Johnson (Fresno, CA) - Explore some of Michelle's other images and learn their stories, as well as, how Michelle arrived to climbing and climbing photography.
- K - Christine Kuebler - "I never intended on becoming an alpine climber. If you went back in time and told me this is what I’d be doing in my life I would have laughed at you." An artist and mother redefines herself after some heart-breaking life-events.
- L - Shawn Lee - Shawn Lee is a climber, illustrator, and graphic designer from Toronto, Canada. He has some incredible drawings of strong climbers of color. Shawn is the feature artist in our "Honoring Diversity" issue and, in his interview, he describes what it's like being Chinese Canadian in the time of COVID-19.
- N - Tiffany Nardico - (Lives on the Road) Climber, Caver, Canyoneering adventure photographer - Tiffany has quite a story.
- O - Karmelo Onate - "Mountains...I want to draw it" - A moving and poetic piece about what drives Kamelo to his artistry... "I make a rectangle with the fingers of my gloved hands and I frame that image of her approaching, with zombie step, staggering, and... I want to draw it! I want to draw that wind, the sound of blowing gusts that lift chunks of ice that stick like tiny projectiles, that unnatural posture enduring the thrust of nature that tries to reject her from his domains."
- O - Camila Ospina - (Bogota, Colombia) Colombian climber and photographer Camila Ospina takes us on a tour of some of her favorite places to climb and photograph climbing in Colombia.
- P - Diego Perez - (Liverpool, New South Wales, Australia) - Chef, climber, and hobby photographer who prefers a more natural, unedited style of photography.
- S - Stephen Smithburger - (Washington D.C.) - Rock climber and photographer Stephen Smithburger hails from the Washing D.C. area and shares some beautiful climbing photos around the East Coast of the U.S. and beyond.
- S - Matt Spohn (Portland, OR) - Big wall climber, photographer, poet, and manager of his family-owned climbing gym, Matt Spohn, shares his big wall climbing photos with us.
- V - Laura Vallo - Acrylic and Rope Rug Artist - Laura Vallo is all things landscape - landscape architect, landscape artist, and climber. She has turned her artistry, her love of climbing, and post-surgery down-time into amazing custom landscape rope art. See her work and read her interview.
- W - Joel Wilson - (Australia, in his van) - Joel Wilson shares some incredible photos of his climbing trip to Bruny Island off the coast of Tasmania.
- PROFILES:
- A - Shawn Axelrod (Boulder, CO) - Shawn has a congenital heart condition called Wolff-Parkinson-White Syndrome which has progressed into congestive heart failure. Shawn has been climbing for over 30 years, but has had to make adjustments to his climbing over time because of his health. Shawn remains connected with his love of climbing through his eco-centered business called Climbing Addicts.
- B - Megan Banker (Portland, OR) - Megan is a plus-sized climber who runs a "Plus-Size Rock Climbing Meetup" group to connect plus-sized climbers with each other and to experience the wonderful world of climbing.
- B - Wendy Bruere (Sydney, Australia) - More Than It Hurts: An Interview with Co-Editor Wendy Bruere - More Than It Hurts...and other stories of (mis)adventure by womxn who climb and mountaineer is a collection of personal stories by women and people of diverse genders who rock-climb and mountaineer. The book was launched in December 2020 by editors Wendy Bruere and Emily Small and grew out of an idea editor Wendy had during COVID-19 restrictions in Sydney, Australia. Common Climber interviews Wendy to learn more about her, this book, and the process to bring it to fruition.
- D - Favia Dubyk (Albuquerque, NM) - Favia Dubyk is strong. She's a V12 boulderer, an American Ninja Warrior, a cancer survivor, and a Harvard-trained physician. Check out her interview, incredible photos of her climbing, and videos of her strength and indomitable spirit.
- H - Lindsey Hamm (Bishop, CA) (Interview By Enock Glidden) - Lindsey Hamm is a mountain guide based out of Bishop, California. She has a strong Instagram following who love to see her photos of sending; She was a competitor in the Titan Games; She lives out of her camper; And, her absolute favorite food is chicken. Read on to learn more about this confident, mountain spirit!
- M - Marisa Michael - Nutrition for Climbers - Climbing dietician Marisa Michael shares how climbing nutrition needs to vary between types of climbers (bouldering versus trad, for example), common nutrition mistakes climbers make, and more.
- P - Sabine Pratt Hunziger (Sydney, Australia) - The extraordinary story of a climber and fall survivor.
- S - Caitlin Schokker (New Castle, Australia) - Common Climber editor Dave Barnes, met Caitlin at Mount Piddington in the Blue Mountains of Australia. She was making light work of a classic middle grade crack climb. Caitlin had buzzing energy and her red hair glowed in the sun like a flame. She has a passion for the game. CC asked Caitlin if she could share and explain her love of climbing.
- S - Louise Shepard (Mt. Arapiles, Australia) - Louise was one of the strongest female traditional climbers in the world in the 1980s, establishing numerous FAs and FFAs. Today, at 61, she still rock climbs and guides.
- Push and Pull (by Grey Hensley) - There is a common misperception that climbing uses all of our muscles. It doesn’t. Ignoring those other muscles can affect climbing performance. Find out how to easily fix it.
- Quinn Brett Interview (By Enock Glidden) - Climber Quinn Brett became paralyzed after a fall when trying to set a new speed record for The Nose in Yosemite. Enock Glidden interviews Quinn who shares what she is doing in her new life and the messages she wishes to share with climbers.
- Riding the Dirty Dog (By Jack Waterhouse) - From Salt Lake City, Utah to El Potrero Chico, Mexico - a climber rides the "dirty dog" for $144 to get on some of the worlds longest bolted climbs. Creative story telling takes you for a ride.
- Rock! (By Paul Prichard) - Multi-award winning book author Paul Prichard shares a very special story about sharing climbing with his son Eli...The day had finally arrived when I could safely take my boy climbing. I had waited a long time for this moment. As a D.A.D. (dad with a disability) it takes a whole lot of planning to do anything adventurous with your kids. I have a brain injury, you see, after a climbing accident twenty-two years ago...
- Rock Star Groupie (by Stefani Dawn) - A climber finds herself following a route-setting rock star. Who is it and why?
- Rock Type 1 (By Susan Ramsey) - A rock-climbing family discovered their 7-year old son has type 1 diabetes. They learned to manage the disease while still engaging in rock and alpine climbing and they now share their knowledge and outdoors with others with type 1 diabetes through their non-profit Rock Type 1.
- Rope Buying 101 (By Stefani Dawn) - A frank guide (based on experience) to buying your first rock climbing rope and the why’s to back it up.
- Shit Happens - Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie (By Stefani Dawn) - If you’ve ever read forums about multipitch climbing you’ve probably seen threads (aka. arguments about 30-seconds away from a fist-fight) about best communication practices... Frankly, the simplest way to deal with communication on a multi-pitch climb is to get a freaking walkie talkie... Stef takes you on a mini-epic, illustrating the why of walkie talkies.
- Sketchy Anchor Bolts! (by Stefani Dawn) - Sometimes you reach the top of a climb and the anchor bolts are super sketchy. What do you do besides cross your fingers and hope for the best?
- Sliding-x Anchor (by Stefani Dawn) - Video and photo tutorial on how to build this useful anchor.
- Snakes and Ladders (By David Barnes) - Australia – the land where walking out your front door means you may be bitten, stung, or even killed by any number of critters. Now try it on a climb...
- Social Climbing Networks Come to the Aid of Lonely Climber (by Stefani Dawn) - Mountain Project and Meetup.com save a lonely climber.
- Sorcerer and the Kidney Stone (By Stefani Dawn) - Ow… ow…. Owwwwwww…. I sure as shit am not going to die on Necromancer – the dark black patina-covered wall in Red Rock Canyon named after a person who communicates with the dead…
- Sojourn at Dyurrite (by Keith Bell) - Every climber has a place they hold dear to their heart, where the memories always remain fresh, and friends become family. Savor Kieth Bell's poetic tribute to one of the most special climbing areas in Australia.
- Starting Over (by Stefani Dawn) - We all love climbing. We are dedicated to it. We’d do it every day if we could. But face it, we’ve all been there - be it from injury, work demands, location, or lack of partners – we have to start over, again, and again, and again. And it sucks every… single…time...
- Take Risks - You'll Remember Them Later (By Jess Sanson) - An exploration of how climbing memories are formed in the brain and why we remember some better than others.
- Tombstone Territory (By Keith Bell) - Tombstone Wall is a classic John Ewbank 15 (5.7) on Mt. Piddington in the Blue Mountains of Australia. Keith Bell takes us on a tour of this fine line. This is the last article in a three-part series highlighting classic climbs of Mt. Piddington.
- The Adventure of a Lifetime...So far (By Dierdre Wolownick) - "When you think of big wall climbers, it’s not generally an “elderly lady” who comes to mind. That’s what my son, Alex Honnold, called me during my first year of climbing, when he led me and another “elderly lady” friend up Snake Dike on Half Dome. Eight years later, when I climbed El Cap with him, I was even more elderly."
- The Art of Climbing Without Rock: How to Stay Strong and Stay Inspired in a “Climbing Desert” (By Jesse Montgomery) - What happens when life throws you a curve ball and you end up at a location where there is very little climbing nearby? Jesse Montgomery encountered this very thing when stationed in the middle of Georgia and shares a solid plan of how to keep climbing front and center in your life.
- The Bane of Northwest Climbing (by Stefani Dawn) - @#$% moss! Enough said.
- The Devil’s Game (by Grey Hensley) - Buddha versus the devil...Improve your climbing by letting a little bit of your devil out!
- The Euro-Death Knot is NOT (by Rick Momsen) - Shrouded in myth, misnomers, and misinformation, the Euro-Death Knot (Flat Overhand Bend) is NOT a death knot. Simply stated it is a quick, safe, and easy way to join two ropes together for a rappel.
- The Guidebook (By Kirby Walke) - Toss together a family road trip, a guidebook, some serendipity, and a love of llamas and you just might get a little rock climbing magic.
- The Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’ (by Adam Donoghue) - Adam Donoghue takes us to the place that time forgot -The Tyndals in South West Tasmania for some first ascents.
- The Lineage (By Leslie Kim) - Climber and Dynamite Starfish business owner Leslie Kim reflects upon her Korean-American heritage - a lineage of which she is proud, but also weighs heavy.
- The ONE Item to Stockpile (by Stefani Dawn) - As climbers we love our equipment, but of all the gear we use there is ONE item worth stockpiling.
- The Pink Tricam (By Emma Renly) - Author Emma Renly describes her first trad lead, and how the pink tricam was both her downfall and her saving grace.
- The Space Between (By Alison Singer) - A love poem for a climber by climber.
- The Tape Job (By Jeff Smoot) - Double amputee Hugh Herr experiences equipment malfunction while working on the First Free Ascent of the Leavenworth, WA roof crack "Early Morning Overhang/Flight of the Valkyries."
- The Taste of Climbing: The Third Sense (By David Barnes) - A climber describes climbing from a unique perspective - taste.
- The Unreasonable Man (By Wayne Willoughby) - The Unreasonable Man is a touching story of sheer will, persistence, ambition, and, most of all, a love of climbing. The author, who was struck by Polio at a young age, battles major surgeries, significant injuries, and a deteriorating body from Post Polio syndrome. Yet, he sets big wall speed records and climbs numerous big walls per year.
- The 5.10 Commandments (By Carrot) - Struggling with the COVID quarantine and the muscle loss that comes with it, Carrot creates the 5.10 Commandments for post-quarantine climbing.
- Things of Stone and Wood (by Dave Barnes) - A tree is lodged smack-dab in the middle of Dave’s new climb. The author struggles with whether to remove the tree of leave it, taking us on a thoughtful journey of trees and climbing.
- Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip (By Stefani Dawn and Rick Momsen) - A photo and video tutorial on how to use a stick clip to: (1) Clip a draw (with the rope) to the first bolt (the basic clip); (2) Insert the rope into an empty draw already on a bolt; and (3) Remove a draw from an overhead bolt.
- Tim Macartney-Snape: A Legend from Sea to Summit (by Dave Barnes) - Australian climbing legend and Sea to Summit founder Tim Macartney-Snape is known for his first ascent line and sea to summit climbs on Everest, but he is a climber who also embraces moderate lines in his Australian backyard.
- Tiptoeing Through Some Bungles (By Keith Bell) - It took a while for author Keith Bell to finally get on the Australian classic climb "Tiptoe." He takes us on the journey, which some might call a "bungle," that finally got him there, as well as the ultimate incredible climbing experience with a good friend.
- Todd Gordon (by Stefani Dawn) - “We had teenie weenies and big egos!” he said with animation and a Cheshire grin. This is Todd Gordon, the rock climbing "mayor" of Joshua Tree.
- Tony Calderone (by Stefani Dawn) - Perseverance. Tenacity. Grit. Commitment. Transformation. These are the words that describe what I know of Tony Calderone. Controversial. Opinionated. And, perhaps a few other choice words, also float around the rock-climbing ethers of his stomping grounds in Utah and Idaho. Who is Tony Calderone?
- Top 10: Climbing Best Practices (by Stefani Dawn) - Being a better climber doesn't mean crushing the hardest grades, it means consistently using best practices. Find out the TOP 10!
- Top 10: Increase the Climbing Grade When... (by Stefani Dawn) - A climber ponders climbing grades and invents a new game…Increase the climbing grade when...
- Trad Climbing is for Chicken Sh*#s (by Stefani Dawn) - A trad climber, who is on the lower end of the bravery scale, explains why trad climbing is good for those who get scared easily.
- Training for Mt. Rainier: Adaptive Climbing (by Enock Glidden) - Training and planning for a mountaineering expedition requires a lot no matter what, but when you are an adaptive climber it becomes a whole new level of dedication and effort.
- Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quarantraining (By Brianna Boney) - Behavior change expert Brianna Boney provides clear, helpful tips on how to build mental toughness during CoVID quarantine (that can be applied to climbing or life beyond) .
- Trying to Send This Route: Getting Through the COVID-19 Crisis Without Climbing (by Heather Supinie) - Climber and blogger Heather Supinie shares her experiences with the CoVID shutdown, including being an employee of a climbing gym.
- Vedauwoo, Wyoming: Inverted Offwidth, Cracks and a Chimney – Oh My! (by Melissa Kline) - A climber shares her offwidth, crack, and chimney experience in the mystical place that is Vedauwoo.
- Welcome Dave Barnes! - In August 2019 Dave Barnes joined Common Climber as an Assistant Editor. Stefani Dawn, the Creator and Editor-in-Chief, introduces Dave and shares the story of how Dave has woken her from her slumber.
- Which Way Should I Carry My Trad Rack? (by Stefani Dawn) - Any f'n way you want! This article discusses the advantages and disadvantages of three different ways to carry a trad rack. Choose the way that works for you.
- Why I Started Common Climber (by Stefani Dawn) - If the only voice and messages we receive about what being a climber means are the ones we receive from the popular climbing media, then we will almost always be disappointed in ourselves.
- Winter in Verdon (By Frothy Thomson) - The author seeks a unique, quiet, and memorable experience in the normally busy Gorge du Verdon. His, and his climbing-partner's, quest is to climb an obscure route under France's grey skies and cold winter air.
- WTF 5.7? (by Stefani Dawn) - Some climbing grades, more so than others, are simply unpredictable and can blind-side you.
- Zac the Interloper (By Keith Bell) - A crag dog holds a special place in a climber's memory - best climbing buddy. Woof.
- Zone of Craptitude (by Stefani Dawn) - A climber enters the zone - a different kind of zone...
- 8 Reasons I Carry A Full Rack on Every Trad Climb (By Stefani Dawn) - "I stood at the bottom of that 40 foot 5.5 crack with my full double rack up to a #5 cam. My friend and climbing partner looked at me with a wry smile, pointed at my excessive gear, and said with a laugh, 'What’s all this? Is there a whole other mountain up there?'"
- 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8 - Now available from State of Readiness - THE definitive online rock climbing training program - 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8!
- 18 Climber Types: What Type of Climber Are You? (by Stefani Dawn) - It can be helpful to know who you are as a climber.
- 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing (by Erin Collins) - This article takes you climbing around the world - let the adventures begin!