Above: Ken Murphy (IG: @msdubs007) on Elephant Man (5.13b) at the Dark Side, Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, USA (2020) (Photo Credit: Jim Lawyer)
The mountains of Jim Lawyer’s youth forged the man he is today. The hills have called him since he was a boy and as the tides of life have ebbed and flowed, he has stayed in proximity to them. Being amongst the crags keeps his spirit fresh and his body agile. Jim has lived a full life and climbed widely. Folks know him for his refreshing climbing photography, others for his drive to climb as hard as he can for as long as he can. Either way as a base line of life, climbing has given him purpose. This is Jim’s story.
Photographer, adventurer, and climber Jim Lawyer (IG: @jimlawyer)
As a teenager Jim was a kindred spirit of the running deer of the Appalachian Trail, moving at pace, he would often miss the sweet smell of the forest after a morning rain or the beauty of wildflowers lining the trail. Peak bagging in the Adirondack Mountains kept him topped up fueling a young and impressionable mind, giving that kid on the trail a path to follow. His family saw the merit of the mountains and encouraged him. He caught the spell of the mountains and transitioned into climbing, which would accompany him henceforth throughout the decisions life would throw at him.
Jim’s first roped forays were uncoiled while in college and participating in an employment program operated by Stuart Williams. Stuart led Jim to Moss Island, a small cliff on the Mohawk River in NY where they top-roped and climbed some routes by aid. In the years that followed they continued to partner on trips to New Hampshire, Yosemite, North Cascades, and the High Sierras. On his first trip to Yosemite Jim and some friends climbed a moderate, Royal Arches, with sparse gear, one rope, and plenty of psyche. It took a while and they were forced to bivvy at the top as the sun set. Stuart had a lighter, so they lit a fire but still shivered through the l-o-n-g night. Experiences like these stoked Jim’s love of climbing. He pulls stories out like a mom pulls tissues, car keys and candy, from her purse.
Jim’s first roped forays were uncoiled while in college and participating in an employment program operated by Stuart Williams. Stuart led Jim to Moss Island, a small cliff on the Mohawk River in NY where they top-roped and climbed some routes by aid. In the years that followed they continued to partner on trips to New Hampshire, Yosemite, North Cascades, and the High Sierras. On his first trip to Yosemite Jim and some friends climbed a moderate, Royal Arches, with sparse gear, one rope, and plenty of psyche. It took a while and they were forced to bivvy at the top as the sun set. Stuart had a lighter, so they lit a fire but still shivered through the l-o-n-g night. Experiences like these stoked Jim’s love of climbing. He pulls stories out like a mom pulls tissues, car keys and candy, from her purse.
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Jim Lawyer soloing in style wearing rainbow tights he purchased in Katoomba, Australia. The climb is "Arachnid Traction" (5.8) on the Creature Wall, Adirondacks, New York State, USA (2012) (Photo Credit: Colin O'Connor, IG: @colin_climbs).
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Jim Lawyer on the climb "TR" on Spider's Web wall in the Adirondack Mountains, New York State, USA, in 2021. This is early season, and Chapel Pond is still frozen, and people are still ice climbing. "TR" are the initials of the first ascentionist, Tom Rosecrans - often confused with "toprope." (Photo Credit: Colin O'Connor, IG: @colin_climbs)
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The messy business in Jim’s head as a youth was being cultivated and exchanged for good by the adventures and experiences he was having on rocks near and far. I asked Jim if he could name an experience where the noise of life stopped, and the mountains filled the space. His reply was like a fat hug from the man he is to the boy he was.
“I was climbing in the Bridger Range of Montana with Colin and Tom Yandon. On our way back, exhausted from climbing, we sat down in this beautiful alpine meadow sprinkled with wildflowers, sitting upright with our backs against our packs. No words were spoken, we just sat there. The location, the view, the company, the satisfaction with our climb…It all combined to make this a memorable moment.”
The simple joys of being out are forthright when listening to him speak of his latest project or in seeing his photos capturing the position and place a climb brings to the climber. Jim admired climbers who have deep respect for their mentors and community. One of these for Jim is Tad Welch. Although I was interviewing Jim for this piece, he waxed lyrical about others. He said this of Tad - and Jim’s words exemplify how he has come to maintain a safe vibe as he goes about his business. Seasoned climbers have value for that alone.
“I was climbing in the Bridger Range of Montana with Colin and Tom Yandon. On our way back, exhausted from climbing, we sat down in this beautiful alpine meadow sprinkled with wildflowers, sitting upright with our backs against our packs. No words were spoken, we just sat there. The location, the view, the company, the satisfaction with our climb…It all combined to make this a memorable moment.”
The simple joys of being out are forthright when listening to him speak of his latest project or in seeing his photos capturing the position and place a climb brings to the climber. Jim admired climbers who have deep respect for their mentors and community. One of these for Jim is Tad Welch. Although I was interviewing Jim for this piece, he waxed lyrical about others. He said this of Tad - and Jim’s words exemplify how he has come to maintain a safe vibe as he goes about his business. Seasoned climbers have value for that alone.
The granite paradise of the Lofoten Islands in Norway in 2010. Colin O'Connor (@colin_climbs) captured Jim Lawyer at the perfect moment, making the obligatory jump between the horns on the Svolværgeita. In Jim's words, "This jump is a right of passage, as I understand it, so we all did it, even though it was scary. The 24-hour, low-in-the-sky, magic-hour sun makes photography really easy; the frequent wind and rain...not so much."
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Jim Lawyer on "Fight Club" (5.11d) at Toomsuba, Little River Canyon, Alabama, USA (2021) (Photo Credit: Colin O'Connor, IG: @colin_climbs)
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“I’ve climbed a lot with Tad over the years. He’s a local pioneer and a mentor of mine. We always have a fun time, joking, never taking ourselves seriously. Some years ago, we found ourselves at Laurel Knob in North Carolina, ten pitches up this huge granite dome, beginning our rappels. Tad threaded his device and leaned back to begin his rappel. I just happened to glance at his device and noticed only one strand of rope through his ATC. I reacted quickly, grabbed his harness and yanked him back to the wall before he had totally weighed the rope. The valuable lesson was to always be vigilant and aware. I prefer a lighthearted, joking atmosphere. Serious climbers bum me out, so I have trained myself to watch for these moments regardless of what’s going on around me.”
Jim reminds me of that climber you are pleased to spend a day out with. An enthusiastic voice who is as pleased to share another’s moment as well as bagging some for himself. One of his climbing partners, Ethan Suttner sums Jim up neatly,
“Jim has tons of energy for climbing and joking around at the crag. He often recites quotes from Seinfeld, The Office, and Parks & Recreation. On rest days he will go out to find lesser-known crags. In Brazil, he has been doing the same, photographing the friends we have made here.”
Jim reminds me of that climber you are pleased to spend a day out with. An enthusiastic voice who is as pleased to share another’s moment as well as bagging some for himself. One of his climbing partners, Ethan Suttner sums Jim up neatly,
“Jim has tons of energy for climbing and joking around at the crag. He often recites quotes from Seinfeld, The Office, and Parks & Recreation. On rest days he will go out to find lesser-known crags. In Brazil, he has been doing the same, photographing the friends we have made here.”
Jim Lawyer on "Knock Out" (Fr 7a+ / Us 5.12a), Tersanas Cave, Crete, Greece (2017) (Photo Credit: Lucie Wellner, IG: @lucie_wellner)
Jim is a hungry man always wanting to know more, do more, be more. Before the internet he would pore through magazines, even the ads, to garner every morsel of stoke he could find between the covers. Two climbers and their style have stood out for Jim: Russ Clune and Henry Barber. He saw they were travelers and chased their adventures. He modeled his climbing/travel after those guys, and even met and climbed with Russ. Henry though, like many of us, was his hero. Jim said to me,
“I’ve never met Henry, but during my Australian trip I modeled my itinerary on Barber’s 1975 "Hot Henry" tour down under and climbed 77 days straight, a record for me. (I read that Henry climbed every day, and drove to new areas at night, never sleeping…).” In Australia, the color of that tour is still spoken of, and many classic climbs remain his legacy.
I reached out to Henry to give his protégé some love. To Jim from Henry Barber:
“I’ve never met Henry, but during my Australian trip I modeled my itinerary on Barber’s 1975 "Hot Henry" tour down under and climbed 77 days straight, a record for me. (I read that Henry climbed every day, and drove to new areas at night, never sleeping…).” In Australia, the color of that tour is still spoken of, and many classic climbs remain his legacy.
I reached out to Henry to give his protégé some love. To Jim from Henry Barber:
There are many ways to fulfill a life of climbing. I am in high admiration that Jim has managed a successful business career early so that he can afford to climb full time later in life. Jim also appreciates those who came before him and seeks to engage that diverse world by traveling to all corners of the globe experiencing some of those historic moments. I am flattered he traveled to Australia to try and repeat my trip of 42 days.”
Jim Lawyer (IG: @jimlawyer) on one of the most photographed routes on the planet - "Kachoong" (Au 21 / 5.11a), Arapiles, Australia (2012). (Photo Credit: Michelle Burlitch, IG: @michelleburlitch)
Climbing as often as he does, Jim has built a dossier of unique experiences. Climbing with Allen Steck, a founding Yosemite legend being one. Whilst whiling away time at Joshua Tree, Jim caught up with the Golden Age Climbing Group, Allen being a member. Allen and Jim hit it off and had a glorious time climbing together around the country. Jim says, “Allen was always game to climb and had a similar insatiable appetite for climbing.” It is an indicator of Jim’s character that he so easily strikes up friendships and finds climbing partners, even icons!
Jim found a career as a computer programmer and established a company; one, to make a living and two, to travel the world climbing. In 2000, he exited the business and retired. This let him play with reason two - like a boss. As the CEO of his destiny Jim revisited a long-held aspiration, to climb 5.13. He explained it to me.
“When I started out in the mid 80’s 5.12 onsights got mentioned in national climbing media, and 5.13 was akin to watching Alex Honnold free solo El Cap— simply incomprehensible. Raised in this decade, I carried the mentality that 5.13 was beyond my reach.”
Skip forwards thirty years Jim turned fifty and a bouldering gym opened in Central New York, near to his home. He began training and climbing with a stronger crew changing his focus from trad to sport, away from onsighting to redpointing, and results began to flow; he began to climb 5.12 regularly. The dream of climbing 5.13, well, it was now a possibility. How did Jim fare? Turning 51 years of age Jim sent his first 5.13a, a beast of a climb aptly named, Eye of Sauron (5.13a) in the Adirondack Mountains. His motor was primed to climb - hard - and he put his foot to the floor.
Jim found a career as a computer programmer and established a company; one, to make a living and two, to travel the world climbing. In 2000, he exited the business and retired. This let him play with reason two - like a boss. As the CEO of his destiny Jim revisited a long-held aspiration, to climb 5.13. He explained it to me.
“When I started out in the mid 80’s 5.12 onsights got mentioned in national climbing media, and 5.13 was akin to watching Alex Honnold free solo El Cap— simply incomprehensible. Raised in this decade, I carried the mentality that 5.13 was beyond my reach.”
Skip forwards thirty years Jim turned fifty and a bouldering gym opened in Central New York, near to his home. He began training and climbing with a stronger crew changing his focus from trad to sport, away from onsighting to redpointing, and results began to flow; he began to climb 5.12 regularly. The dream of climbing 5.13, well, it was now a possibility. How did Jim fare? Turning 51 years of age Jim sent his first 5.13a, a beast of a climb aptly named, Eye of Sauron (5.13a) in the Adirondack Mountains. His motor was primed to climb - hard - and he put his foot to the floor.
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Jim Lawyer (IG: @jimlaywer) nabbing "Chacal" (Br 9c / Fr 8a / Us 5.13b) on his first redpoint attempt. This climbi is located in the Thundercats area of Serra do Cipó, Brazil (2023) (Photo Credit: Colin O'Connor, IG: @colin_climbs).
In 2016 Jim sent the first ascent of Zah Dude (5.13b/29) at, Chatiemac Cliff, on the side of Gore Mountain in the Adirondacks. Today it is a classic test piece of the area and was Jim’s absolute limit at the time. He said of that climb, “I cleaned and bolted the line and sent it on my second lead attempt, which does not seem like a lot, but it was my first project and my first hard route.
It was a milestone for me, and I named it in memory of my friend, Joe Szot, who passed away while climbing in the Shawangunks at age 50 from a heart attack.”
For Jim to nail a first ascent of a climb with that grade and blue-ribbon quality, well, as Eddie Van Halen said: That’s what dreams are made of. The goal of climbing 5.13 took Jim four years but in the process, he discovered prime routes, climbed with incredible people, and had the most rewarding experiences of his life. The significance of establishing Zah Dude is heart thumping stuff when listening to Jim:
“Completing that FA was something else. Today grades have been pushed to 5.15d, and grandparents and children are climbing 5.13. For the climbing world, 5.13 is no longer a big deal. But it is to me.”
That grade became Jim’s mission. “The year I turned 53 I decided to set a challenge for myself which I named, Project Thirteen. I would climb thirteen 5.13 routes, each one in a different country. Because I’d be traveling to a new area to do a route at my limit, I knew this would be a tough challenge that would require me to be solid at 5.13.” This dream consumed Jim as he went high and low globetrotting to achieve this effort - and he did.
It was a milestone for me, and I named it in memory of my friend, Joe Szot, who passed away while climbing in the Shawangunks at age 50 from a heart attack.”
For Jim to nail a first ascent of a climb with that grade and blue-ribbon quality, well, as Eddie Van Halen said: That’s what dreams are made of. The goal of climbing 5.13 took Jim four years but in the process, he discovered prime routes, climbed with incredible people, and had the most rewarding experiences of his life. The significance of establishing Zah Dude is heart thumping stuff when listening to Jim:
“Completing that FA was something else. Today grades have been pushed to 5.15d, and grandparents and children are climbing 5.13. For the climbing world, 5.13 is no longer a big deal. But it is to me.”
That grade became Jim’s mission. “The year I turned 53 I decided to set a challenge for myself which I named, Project Thirteen. I would climb thirteen 5.13 routes, each one in a different country. Because I’d be traveling to a new area to do a route at my limit, I knew this would be a tough challenge that would require me to be solid at 5.13.” This dream consumed Jim as he went high and low globetrotting to achieve this effort - and he did.
Jim Lawyer (IG: @jimlawyer) on "Eldorado" (Br 9b / Fr 7c+ / Us 5.13a) in Trés Barras, Brazil (2023) (Photo Credit: Colin O'Connor, IG: @colin_climbs). In Jim's words: "I got this my first redpoint attempt!"
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One of several 5.13s Jim Lawyer climbed on his 2023 trip to Brazil. Jim says this one took This one took "many goes over two trips." "Amor Incondicional" (Br 9b / Fr 7c+ / Us 5.13a), Papagaio, Serra do Cipó, Brazil (Photo Credit: Ethan Suttner, IG @ethansuttner)
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Jim has gathered other talents on his journey, one being photography. Today, Jim’s shots are beautifully framed and capture the love of what we do. In earlier years he would do slideshows at his home. Today that has evolved from a web site, then Facebook, and now he concentrates his work on Instagram. Jim often shoots on the fly (no setup or getting into position; He just captures what he sees while going about the business of climbing). Occasionally he seizes a magazine grade winner and has been published in American climbing mags of merit. Nowadays Jim devotes more time in capturing the moment, setting himself, and ordering his camera gear in prime locations to get that winner. As he says,
“Photography is just another way I enjoy climbing. It pairs well with rest days, and shooting keeps me from overdoing it physically (going hard multiple days in a row).”
“Photography is just another way I enjoy climbing. It pairs well with rest days, and shooting keeps me from overdoing it physically (going hard multiple days in a row).”
Jenn Edmond (IG: @jjedmond) on "Urisk The Rustic Brownie" (Sa 23 / Fr 6c+ / 5.11c) at the A.C.R.A Wall, Waterfall Crags, Waterval Boven, South Africa. (Photo Credit: Jim Lawyer, IG: @jimlawyer)
Jim has been inspired and influenced by Australian climber, photographer and author, Simon Carter. He says of his work. “Simon’s first hard-cover coffee-table book of climbing in Australia is the reason I traveled to Australia for three months. I studied this book, every page, every photo. Simon is the reason anyone in the U.S. even knows about Australian climbing.”
He also seeks to find angles looking at work from Jim Thornburg, and other photographers.
He says of his learning, “I’m not trained in photography, but have gotten better at it, but still not pro level. I upgraded my equipment (two Z6 bodies and various lenses), shoot in raw, and learned how to better process images in post (thanks Lightroom and Photoshop!)”
One of Jim’s more memorable shoots was in in 2022 while on his first trip to Serra do Cipó, Brazil. He saw freshness in the climbing there and whilst he and his nephew Colin were getting amongst it climbing, they were shooting throughout their time there. He chuckled at the memory of it, “We photographed everything and got a reputation among the locals as, 'The American photographers'.” We were experiencing this amazing place for the first time, and captured what was special about it. I think it reminded the locals, who see it every day, of its charm, giving them a fresh respect for their own area.”
He also seeks to find angles looking at work from Jim Thornburg, and other photographers.
He says of his learning, “I’m not trained in photography, but have gotten better at it, but still not pro level. I upgraded my equipment (two Z6 bodies and various lenses), shoot in raw, and learned how to better process images in post (thanks Lightroom and Photoshop!)”
One of Jim’s more memorable shoots was in in 2022 while on his first trip to Serra do Cipó, Brazil. He saw freshness in the climbing there and whilst he and his nephew Colin were getting amongst it climbing, they were shooting throughout their time there. He chuckled at the memory of it, “We photographed everything and got a reputation among the locals as, 'The American photographers'.” We were experiencing this amazing place for the first time, and captured what was special about it. I think it reminded the locals, who see it every day, of its charm, giving them a fresh respect for their own area.”
Colin O'Connor (IG: @colin_climbs) on "Orange Juice" (5.12c) at Funk Rock City, Red River Gorge (2019) (Photo Credit: Jim Lawyer, IG: @jimlawyer)
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Gustavo Fontes (IG: @gustavomfontes) on "Os Intocáveis" (Br 11a / Fr 8c / Us 5.14b), in sector PCC, Serra do Cipó, Brazil. Belayed by Francine Borges (IG: @francineclimb) (2022) (Photo Credit: Jim Lawyer, IG: @jimlawyer)
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This year Jim tagged along to film, Felipe Camargo, Brazil’s local hero. Felipe was projecting a route at Cipó, a route he believed could be the first 9a+/5.15a in South America. He climbed at night to get the best conditions. He was being filmed by a North Face team, but Jim was the only photographer that evening.
Filipe sent it that evening, and Jim captured this historic effort; Felipe was thankful for Jim’s support.
Filipe sent it that evening, and Jim captured this historic effort; Felipe was thankful for Jim’s support.
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Ken Murphy (IG: @msdubs007) on "Starry Night" (5.12a) at the Gallery, Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, U.S.A. (2022) (Photo Credit: Jim Lawyer, IG: @jimlawyer)
Jim’s love for climbing and for the place that shaped him reflect for another skill Jim developed, creating a climbing guidebook. He has been able to incorporate his knowledge of crags, photography and computer skills to compile, Adirondack Rock, https://www.adirondackrock.com/
He says this about his guide,
“It was a multi-year project to document climbing in a six-million-acre park. I own thousands of guidebooks, and I used these to identify the best layout and guidebook features. I tried to create the best guidebook for any area, anywhere. I think I have come close.”
He says this about his guide,
“It was a multi-year project to document climbing in a six-million-acre park. I own thousands of guidebooks, and I used these to identify the best layout and guidebook features. I tried to create the best guidebook for any area, anywhere. I think I have come close.”
Colin O'Connor (IG: @colin_climbs) on "La Flacha Perdida" (Fr 7b / 5.12b) in La Buitrera, Piedra Parada, Argentina. This tower lies is deep in a narrow side canyon. Jim had to scramble up another side canyon to get to this vantage point. (Photo Credit: Jim Lawyer, IG: @jimlawyer)
To conclude, this piece seems to be inadequate, as Jim is a change agent, his story is one of motion and projection. There is no pause button on the machine that is Jim. His life partner, Lucie Wellner shared this with me,
“Jim is an amazing man and yes, climbing is indeed a third partner in our relationship. Jim seeks out a day of climbing that offers challenge and provides good company. Adventure is always the cherry on top. Let’s go has always been Jim’s default line.”
Who knows what he will bring to the crag next time you see him or his work? That is the pleasure of following Jim. There is one guarantee, it’s going to be fun.
“Jim is an amazing man and yes, climbing is indeed a third partner in our relationship. Jim seeks out a day of climbing that offers challenge and provides good company. Adventure is always the cherry on top. Let’s go has always been Jim’s default line.”
Who knows what he will bring to the crag next time you see him or his work? That is the pleasure of following Jim. There is one guarantee, it’s going to be fun.
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Moebius Slate-Rutledge (IG: @moebius882) on "Flex" (5.12d / 5.13a) at Toomsuba, Little River Canyon, Alabama, USA (2021). (Photo Credit: Jim Lawyer, IG: @jimlawyer)
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Val Shao (IG: @val_shao) on "Resista" (Fr 6c / Us 5.11b) at Ghost Kitchen in Kalymnos, Greece (2019). Photographer Jim Lawyer says, "One of my favorite routes of the grade in Kalymnos." (Photo Credit: Jim Lawyer, IG: @jimlawyer)
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