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Sébastien Berthe Free Climbs the Nose From the Ground Up


​An Interview for Common Climber By Dave Barnes
ED NOTE: Sébastien Berthe​ is the 7th person to free climb El Capitan's The Nose and the first to do it from a "ground up" ascent leading. Seb lead all of the pitches above 5.11d. A ground up ascent means he did not come in from above to work out specific pieces of the climb. Instead, he worked each pitch from bottom to top until he got it clean.

Picture
Photo Credit: Alex Eggermont

​Sébastien Berthe taps into his internet account in Belgium. Seb, is no ordinary young key board tapper, this 26 year old climber who freed the Nose of El Capitan in the United States in the second week of November, 2019 after an eight day effort from the ground up. Seb climbed the route accompanied by his switched-on partner, Loic Debry. Seb led every pitch.

I caught up with Seb for Common Climber and he shares the stoke of his ascent in the following. 

Seb was taught to climb by his father as a child and has always had dreamed of climbing around the world. Twenty years of quelling his ferocious appetite to climb was leading him to this moment. 

“Freeing The Nose has been a dream since I was a child, but the first time I seriously thought about it was three years ago, when my Swiss friend Nicolas Preitner and I did the route in a day. It was my first time on it and while I was aid climbing the crux pitches, I knew I'd give a proper free attempt one day.”

Seb has been building his Yosemite resume with hard-as free ascents of The Heart Route in 2016 followed by  Freerider (5.13/28) in a day in 2017. He was feeling confident.
Picture
Photo Credit: Alex Eggermont

​“In 2017, I got on the route with my father on a regular 3-days ascent. My goal was to free-climb as many pitches as possible. Unfortunately, I couldn't try the roof as it was wet and tried only once the corners as we had to keep going toward the summit to catch our flight back home.”

Seb was possessed. I’m sure he scrolled down every topo and memorised all the beta to shake out that itch.  Two years later he was back. 

“Freeing The Nose was the main goal of this year's 3-weeks trip. The ground up style is a natural style in Belgium. I guess it comes from Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva (two of his mentors). 

Climbing the Nose is like holding the body of a lover. You never tire of the lovers feel and the lover continues to surprise. I wanted to know what Sébastien favourite move was on this affair? 

“Definitely the changing corners section, which was probably the craziest kind of moves I've ever climbed. From the ground freeing Nose took eight days but four were spent working just on those corners.” 

Lovers often reach impasses but the climb let him have his way and he climbed on through to El Cap tree. 

Listening to Seb he sounded like a young man with a great passion to climb. It was obvious to me he was inspired and of course the climbing he had done with his dad was evidence there is a strong family link.  
Picture
Photo credit: Loic Debry
“My father introduced me to climbing when I was young and I think he is quite proud! Not because I climb hard, more because I am still so passionate about this sport. what I really love about climbing are all the possibilities that our sport can offer. I could not imagine doing only one discipline of climbing. I love bouldering, I love lead climbing, I love trad and bigwall climbing, I enjoy competition.”

Freeing the Nose is not easy, there was much preparation and Sébastien’s ground up effort was intense. However Seb is young and I’m sure he has more to give. I wanted to know if he thought he could do the Nose ground up in one day with no falls? 

“Mmm. It might be possible indeed. Not sure I am gonna try it next time, but for sure it is something I am interested in. However, no falls is a great challenge; the roof and the corner are so hard that you might fall at any attempt even if you know the moves perfectly well.”

The energy of young guns like Seb is inspiring and makes me feel like really old. Being in his early twenties means the best is yet to come. I asked him what could be next, maybe a trip to Australia?

“So many routes are in my mind... Of course Australia is in the list! Names such as Arapiles, The Blue  Mountains and rites like, Punks in the Gym (32/5.14a) attract me a lot!” 

Seb has achieved much for a man who comes from such a flat country!  He had some advice for young climbers wanting to try big challenges.

“I don't think there is a perfect recipe. As I still consider myself a young guy wanting to try big challenge, I am also still looking for advice on how to move forward. Up [until] now, what has worked for me is, follow my passion and when I fail, I keep going until I get it! And of course, do not listen to those people who tell you about what you are not capable of! Be boldness. [How could I edit that? Too good]. 
​
I expect we will see and hear more of Sébastien Berthe of Belgium in the near future. I asked him about the 2020 Olympics in Japan.

“Yes, for sure I am interested in Olympics and I tried but could not qualify as the qualifying rounds were really hard...”

That maybe so but what Seb has added is another solid European contribution to the free climbing revolution that continues to spin throughout the Big Walls of Yosemite Valley. I am excited to see a new climbing face inspire another international generation to think big, dig deep and share their stoke with a world that so desperately needs hero’s.
Free ascents of The Nose to date 

Year  Party  Time  Notes
1993 Lynn Hill 4 days Free climb [12]
1994 Lynn Hill 23 hours Free climb [16]
1998 Scott Burke 12 days Free or near-free climb [12]
2005 Beth Rodden, Tommy Caldwell 4 days Free climb where each partner led half the climb [12]
2005 Tommy Caldwell under 12 hours Free climb [12]
2014 Jorg Verhoeven 3 days Free climb [12]
2018 Keita Kurakami 5 days First All-Free Rope-Solo
2018 Connor Herson 3 days Youngest person to free the route
2019 Sébastien Berthe 8 days Free climb from the ground up (leading all pitches)
2019 Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher 6 days Free climb
The Nose By the Numbers, El Capitan

Number of pitches: 
31
Climbing Area: Yosemite Valley
First free ascent: Lynn Hill, 1993
Grade: VI
Fastest Ascent: 1:58:07, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold
Rating: 5.13+ or 5.8 C2

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Nose_(El_Capitan)

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        • Achilles
        • Everyone Around Me Is Better Than I Am
        • Fear, Pride, and Exploration
        • How Auto-Immune Disease Affected My Climbing
        • Mastering Joy on Easy Street
        • Mind, Body, and Soul
        • New Year's Resolutions
        • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws
        • Push and Pull
        • Sorcerer and the Kidney Stone
        • Take Risks - You'll Remember Them Later
        • The Art of Climbing Without Rock
        • The Devil's Game
        • The Taste of Climbing
        • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8
      • Other/Misc >
        • Assault on Schurman Rock
        • Book Club
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        • Climbing Drinking Games
        • Climbing Gyms: The Gateway Drug
        • Climbing Hands
        • Climbing in the Bare Essentials
        • Climbing Resolutions
        • Demented Dirtbag
        • Don't Take Granite for Granite
        • Dorothy, We Aren't on Havana Anymore
        • Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing
        • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb
        • Snakes and Ladders
        • Starting Over
        • The Adventure of A Lifetime - So Far
        • The Bane of Northwest Climbing
        • The Pink Tricam
        • Things of Stone and Wood
        • Zac the Interloper
      • Places & Climbs >
        • Climbs >
          • Consolation Prize
          • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited
          • From Yorkshire to Eternity
          • Tombstone Territory
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
        • Location Reviews
        • My Home Crag >
          • Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky
          • My Home Crag: Nowra, NSW, Australia
        • Travel Stories >
          • Blue Mountains - Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys
          • Buenos Aires, Argentina Crag
          • Colorado - Calling Pat Ament
          • Coolum Cave - Sendfest 8
          • Ecuador - A Nation of Four Worlds
          • El Potrero Chico - Riding the Dirty Dog
          • Yosemite: Growing Up
          • Lover's Leap - Zone of Craptitude
          • Rio de Janeiro - Classic Climbs Sampler
          • Taghia, Morocco - Hardly Failing
          • Tasmania - Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’
          • Thailand - Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
          • Vedauwoo, WY
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
          • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing
        • 2020 U.S. Rock Climbing Festivals
      • Poetry/Prose >
        • Anti-Social Climbers
        • Sojourn at Dyuritte
        • Finding Poetry
        • Ice is Nice
        • The Space Between
      • Safety and Skills >
        • Bolting and Ground-Fall Potential
        • Euro-Death Knot is NOT
        • Multi-Pitch Tips: Two ATCs
        • Sketchy Anchor Bolts
        • Sliding-X Anchor
        • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip
        • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices
      • Science Fiction >
        • Red Curtain: Prologue
      • Social, Social Media, & Social Issues >
        • Chossy Trio Renegades
        • Climbing into the Fold
        • Diversity in Climbing is Not a Bandwagon
        • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs"
        • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
        • My Husband Climbs Stronger than Me
        • Navajo Rising
        • Social Network Rescue
  • Marketplace
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  • Reviews
    • Books >
      • Advanced Rock Climbing Book Review
      • Adventures at the Edge of the World
      • Climbing Rock: Vertical Explorations Across North America
      • Hangdog Days Book Review
      • Hooking Up: The Ultimate Big Wall and Climbing Guide
      • Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story - Book Review
    • Equipment/Gear Reviews >
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        • Edelrid Mega Jul
      • Harnesses >
        • ArcTeryx-FL-365
        • Misty Mountain Cadillac
      • Packs and Bags >
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        • Trango Crag Pack
      • Personal Anchor Systems >
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    • Location Reviews >
      • Australia >
        • Queensland, Australia >
          • Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
          • Kangaroo Point Review
        • New South Wales Australia >
          • Blue Mountains >
            • Blue Mountains Photos and Beta
            • Blue Mountains Review
          • Nowra >
            • Nowra Review >
              • Nowra Photos and Beta
      • Mexico >
        • Potrero Chico Photos and Beta
        • Potrero Chico Review
      • United States >
        • Climbing Area Check List - U.S. >
          • Climbing Area Check List Part 1: Alabama to California
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 2: Colorado to Michigan
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 3: Minnesota to New Mexico
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 4: New York to Wyoming
        • Arizona >
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        • Idaho >
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            • City of Rocks Photos and Beta
            • City of Rocks Review
        • Oregon >
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            • Smith Rock - Photos and Beta
            • Smith Rock Review
          • Spring Mountain >
            • Spring Mountain Review
            • Spring Mountain - Photos and Beta
          • Trout Creek >
            • Trout Creek Photos and Beta
            • Trout Creek Review
        • Nevada >
          • Gun Club
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          • Red Rock Canyon >
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            • Red Rocks Photos and Beta
        • New Hampshire >
          • North Conway, NH
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        • New York >
          • Gunks Review
        • Utah >
          • Echo Canyon
          • Ferguson Canyon >
            • Ferguson Canyon Photos and Beta
            • Ferguson Canyon Review
          • Ibex >
            • Ibex Photos and Beta
            • Ibex Review
          • Maple Canyon >
            • Maple Canyon, Utah Photos and Beta
            • Maple Canyon Review
          • Moab >
            • Moab - Main - Photos and Beta
            • Moab -Main - Review
          • St. George >
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall- Photos and Beta
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall - Review
        • West Virginia >
          • Seneca Rocks
        • Wyoming >
          • Ten Sleep
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