He sat across from me, on the front porch of a mutual friend. The dry Joshua Tree air, setting sun, and light breeze removed the fire from a 98-degree day. Grey hair emerged from the bottom of a baseball cap, only slightly revealing his age. His silver five-o-clock shadow graced a sculpted face that conveyed being fit as hell.
“We had teenie weenies and big egos!” he said with animation and a Cheshire grin.
“But sometimes we were actually smart, “ he continued. “Maybe about 1 in 20 or 30 times we were smart… I remember this climb that was so fucking dangerous I finally said to my partner, yeah, I’m done. My partner told me, ‘thanks man, I was getting ready to say the same thing. I can’t take this shit any more.’ When we made it down we actually congratulated each other for not being complete dumb-asses.”
Meet Todd Gordon. If you thumb through a Joshua Tree guidebook and read first ascent names, you will see his name again, and again, and again. Even if you have never heard of him, if you’ve climbed in JTree, you likely have climbed one of “his.”
Todd is a legend. When you’ve been in a community for as many years as Todd, climbed as many climbs, and have a personality as big as the park itself, there is no other option than to become legendary. But it’s not just his astronomical number of first ascents (thousands) that places him in that realm, he is an active, central figure in the town of Joshua Tree itself.
“People have called me a dirt bag, but that’s an insult to dirt bags! Yeah, I’ve traveled around and lived on nothing in order to climb. In fact I’d get free flights from my dad, who was in the airline business, and I’d go anywhere in the world. I’d bring a few hundred bucks, hitchhike, camp, and climb for as long as possible. But really, after college, I became a teacher, and got a house. I’d climb in my free time. I’d get dirty, but I had a soft bed and a shower at the end of each day. I was about as un-dirt-baggy-as it got.”
As a middle school teacher, Todd contributed, and still contributes, to the core of a community. Although now retired, Todd pitches in as a substitute, often working with kids with special needs. Todd’s appreciation of others shines through when he talks about his co-workers.
"I’m a certified teacher and I come into this classroom as the boss to these teaching aids. Those aids are there with these kids every day, for thousands of days. I’m just a substitute. They are the real teachers. I tell them this too. I tell them that they know what they are doing. I ask ‘what do you want me to know?’ I’d be an ass if I came in and acted like I know everything about an environment they have been working in for years."
Todd gets back to the conversation of climbing. He reflects on where he is today and states that his current climbing sweet spot is 3 to 4 days per week. Part of his climbing repertoire is still establishing new routes, but he has now shifted his tune from a run-out hardman to climbing and creating safe 5.fun.
“My wife is smarter than me.” He states without a single ounce of sarcasm.
“We’d go on a special climbing trip and I’d have all of the multi-star climbs on a list, ready to bang out each day. I was so fucking serious. I wanted to get them done. So we’d go out to do these climbs, and then later in the day, my wife would say ‘I’m satisfied. I really don’t want to climb anymore today.’
"I’d say, ‘but don’t you want to climb that 5-star over there?’ and she’d laugh and tell me ‘I’ve already had my fun for the day…’ I was shocked by this. She kept saying climbing was fun, she just wanted to have fun. Then I woke up. She’s right, you know, I was the one that was back-ass-wards.”
Back-ass-wards or not, Todd’s intensity towards climbing is what helped make JTree what it is today. His drive enabled him to go up dangerous climbs without the benefit of the protection we currently have, just a hip-belay.
But now, whatever the reasons - a wife, three children, experience, age, wisdom, tools - Todd has embraced the shift from “climb at any cost” to “climb to have fun.” With this perspective he is still shaping JTree, but in a new way. Now, on a newly established climb, Todd will add a bolt, or two, or three, to protect the climber. There may even be a bolted anchor on top. Todd, welcome to sport climbing.
Speaking of sport climbing, Todd is entering the world of guidebook authoring. In the Fall 2017, Todd will publish his first guidebook, which also happens to be the first Joshua Tree book focusing only on sport climbs.
Todd speaks enthusiastically about his new book
“There are hundreds of routes found only in my book. Not anywhere else! Not Mountain Project, nothing! And, I can say I have climbed almost every damn route in that book – 99.5% of them. The ones I am capable of climbing.”
Todd is understandably excited and proud of his new venture. He is also the first to acknowledge the shoulders of others upon which he has stood, including Alan Bartlett and Randy Vogel.
Bartlett's books were first published in the early 1990s. They are a series of smaller books focusing on specific areas and include many obscure routes and crags. Bartlett's books are known for their hand-drawn topos, which, to the climber new to Joshua Tree may prove challenging to locate a climb. But for those familiar with Joshua Tree, the topos were greatly appreciated, both for the visual clues they provided, but also the pure admiration of Bartlett's effort to create them. Randy Vogel began publishing in the 1980s and has published several of the largest, most thorough guidebooks on Joshua Tree, including the nearly 600 page behemoth Rock Climbing Joshua Tree West: Quail Springs to Hidden Valley Campground.
Both Bartlett and Vogel have their own very impressive list of first ascents. In fact, I would venture to say that if Gordon, Bartlett, and Vogel all stood in a room together, the world would tilt their way just a little bit.
But, since this article is about Todd Gordon, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that he has been crowned the (unofficial) “Mayor of JTree.” Considering the number of legends in the area, there may be more than one unofficial “Mayor”, but, there is no question why Todd has received this title – his heart.
He has a big one.
You can see it in his eyes. You can hear it in his voice. Most importantly, you can see it in his actions.
Todd does for others and, if you listen to what others have to say about him, his big heart always comes up.
Todd is known for opening his home to climbers for rent-free stays, as well as throwing fund raising parties to help climbers in need. He along with other thoughtful, giving members of the community have raised tens of thousands of dollars for numerous local climbers – such as helping pay for medical bills.
One day, Todd, who is a man of internal wealth, but not necessarily financial wealth, ended up being the recipient of one of those parties. A friend and regular attendee of Todd’s fund-raising events observed Todd’s tarp-covered, battered roof and said, Todd, it’s your turn. His friends raised enough money to help him with a new roof and put a down payment on a much-needed used car.
In hearing that story about the community helping Todd, I was touched. It is an indication of the right-ness in this world, reinforcing that, yes, those who give in life also receive.
In addition, that community gift is the ultimate acknowledgement of Todd's undeniable mark. That gift goes way beyond having your name in print on nearly every single page of every single Joshua Tree guidebook. It illustrates how Todd is loved. But don’t take my word for it, take a moment and explore these amazing tributes. (The Super Topo forum tribute has some great photos too):
Alpinist: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP52/local-hero-todd-gordon
Super Topo Forum Tribute: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/626758/Anybody-here-know-Todd-Gordon
Gear Coop Blog: https://blog.gearcoop.com/athlete-feature/todd-gordon-mayor-joshua-tree/
“We had teenie weenies and big egos!” he said with animation and a Cheshire grin.
“But sometimes we were actually smart, “ he continued. “Maybe about 1 in 20 or 30 times we were smart… I remember this climb that was so fucking dangerous I finally said to my partner, yeah, I’m done. My partner told me, ‘thanks man, I was getting ready to say the same thing. I can’t take this shit any more.’ When we made it down we actually congratulated each other for not being complete dumb-asses.”
Meet Todd Gordon. If you thumb through a Joshua Tree guidebook and read first ascent names, you will see his name again, and again, and again. Even if you have never heard of him, if you’ve climbed in JTree, you likely have climbed one of “his.”
Todd is a legend. When you’ve been in a community for as many years as Todd, climbed as many climbs, and have a personality as big as the park itself, there is no other option than to become legendary. But it’s not just his astronomical number of first ascents (thousands) that places him in that realm, he is an active, central figure in the town of Joshua Tree itself.
“People have called me a dirt bag, but that’s an insult to dirt bags! Yeah, I’ve traveled around and lived on nothing in order to climb. In fact I’d get free flights from my dad, who was in the airline business, and I’d go anywhere in the world. I’d bring a few hundred bucks, hitchhike, camp, and climb for as long as possible. But really, after college, I became a teacher, and got a house. I’d climb in my free time. I’d get dirty, but I had a soft bed and a shower at the end of each day. I was about as un-dirt-baggy-as it got.”
As a middle school teacher, Todd contributed, and still contributes, to the core of a community. Although now retired, Todd pitches in as a substitute, often working with kids with special needs. Todd’s appreciation of others shines through when he talks about his co-workers.
"I’m a certified teacher and I come into this classroom as the boss to these teaching aids. Those aids are there with these kids every day, for thousands of days. I’m just a substitute. They are the real teachers. I tell them this too. I tell them that they know what they are doing. I ask ‘what do you want me to know?’ I’d be an ass if I came in and acted like I know everything about an environment they have been working in for years."
Todd gets back to the conversation of climbing. He reflects on where he is today and states that his current climbing sweet spot is 3 to 4 days per week. Part of his climbing repertoire is still establishing new routes, but he has now shifted his tune from a run-out hardman to climbing and creating safe 5.fun.
“My wife is smarter than me.” He states without a single ounce of sarcasm.
“We’d go on a special climbing trip and I’d have all of the multi-star climbs on a list, ready to bang out each day. I was so fucking serious. I wanted to get them done. So we’d go out to do these climbs, and then later in the day, my wife would say ‘I’m satisfied. I really don’t want to climb anymore today.’
"I’d say, ‘but don’t you want to climb that 5-star over there?’ and she’d laugh and tell me ‘I’ve already had my fun for the day…’ I was shocked by this. She kept saying climbing was fun, she just wanted to have fun. Then I woke up. She’s right, you know, I was the one that was back-ass-wards.”
Back-ass-wards or not, Todd’s intensity towards climbing is what helped make JTree what it is today. His drive enabled him to go up dangerous climbs without the benefit of the protection we currently have, just a hip-belay.
But now, whatever the reasons - a wife, three children, experience, age, wisdom, tools - Todd has embraced the shift from “climb at any cost” to “climb to have fun.” With this perspective he is still shaping JTree, but in a new way. Now, on a newly established climb, Todd will add a bolt, or two, or three, to protect the climber. There may even be a bolted anchor on top. Todd, welcome to sport climbing.
Speaking of sport climbing, Todd is entering the world of guidebook authoring. In the Fall 2017, Todd will publish his first guidebook, which also happens to be the first Joshua Tree book focusing only on sport climbs.
Todd speaks enthusiastically about his new book
“There are hundreds of routes found only in my book. Not anywhere else! Not Mountain Project, nothing! And, I can say I have climbed almost every damn route in that book – 99.5% of them. The ones I am capable of climbing.”
Todd is understandably excited and proud of his new venture. He is also the first to acknowledge the shoulders of others upon which he has stood, including Alan Bartlett and Randy Vogel.
Bartlett's books were first published in the early 1990s. They are a series of smaller books focusing on specific areas and include many obscure routes and crags. Bartlett's books are known for their hand-drawn topos, which, to the climber new to Joshua Tree may prove challenging to locate a climb. But for those familiar with Joshua Tree, the topos were greatly appreciated, both for the visual clues they provided, but also the pure admiration of Bartlett's effort to create them. Randy Vogel began publishing in the 1980s and has published several of the largest, most thorough guidebooks on Joshua Tree, including the nearly 600 page behemoth Rock Climbing Joshua Tree West: Quail Springs to Hidden Valley Campground.
Both Bartlett and Vogel have their own very impressive list of first ascents. In fact, I would venture to say that if Gordon, Bartlett, and Vogel all stood in a room together, the world would tilt their way just a little bit.
But, since this article is about Todd Gordon, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that he has been crowned the (unofficial) “Mayor of JTree.” Considering the number of legends in the area, there may be more than one unofficial “Mayor”, but, there is no question why Todd has received this title – his heart.
He has a big one.
You can see it in his eyes. You can hear it in his voice. Most importantly, you can see it in his actions.
Todd does for others and, if you listen to what others have to say about him, his big heart always comes up.
Todd is known for opening his home to climbers for rent-free stays, as well as throwing fund raising parties to help climbers in need. He along with other thoughtful, giving members of the community have raised tens of thousands of dollars for numerous local climbers – such as helping pay for medical bills.
One day, Todd, who is a man of internal wealth, but not necessarily financial wealth, ended up being the recipient of one of those parties. A friend and regular attendee of Todd’s fund-raising events observed Todd’s tarp-covered, battered roof and said, Todd, it’s your turn. His friends raised enough money to help him with a new roof and put a down payment on a much-needed used car.
In hearing that story about the community helping Todd, I was touched. It is an indication of the right-ness in this world, reinforcing that, yes, those who give in life also receive.
In addition, that community gift is the ultimate acknowledgement of Todd's undeniable mark. That gift goes way beyond having your name in print on nearly every single page of every single Joshua Tree guidebook. It illustrates how Todd is loved. But don’t take my word for it, take a moment and explore these amazing tributes. (The Super Topo forum tribute has some great photos too):
Alpinist: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP52/local-hero-todd-gordon
Super Topo Forum Tribute: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/626758/Anybody-here-know-Todd-Gordon
Gear Coop Blog: https://blog.gearcoop.com/athlete-feature/todd-gordon-mayor-joshua-tree/