Cover shot by Featured Photographer Clayton Herrmann
Welcome to the July 2021 themed edition "Firsts... and Last"
Featured Photographer - Clayton Herrmann
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July 2021 Featured Photographer Clayton Hermann lives in his van but originally hails from southern California.
He is a multi-sport aficionado who shifts between guiding gigs and traveling to ski, climb, and photograph. Clayton has been doing photography since middle school and has mastered the craft of capturing the light, scenery, and climbing action (as you can see by the cover photo at Indian Creek above and the photo of the Alabama Hills, California to the right). Join us for more of Clayton's photos and his interview. |
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Editorial
Stefani Dawn at Smith Rock, Oregon (Photo credit: Brian Sillorequez)
There is a first time and a last time for everything. Both moments hold special memories in our lives, and some, like first ascents, open doors for others to experience their first at a special place.
Firsts...and Last is our theme for the July 2021 edition where every story tells the tale of a first, with the exception of one story -- the unique account of a first ascentionist's last time climbing a line he had put up so many years before - Fast Forward…Rysavy Ridge Revisited by Tony McKenny. We are honored to be able to re-print Tony's 1978 account of his first ascent of that classic Tasmanian line - The Migrant Pom on Rysavy Ridge and to follow it up with his 2021 account of his final time to climb it - Fast Forward…Rysavy Ridge Revisited. How many times does a publication get to capture such a special time capsule?
We also have a third story about Rysavy Ridge (Throng of Roland) written by Keith Bell. Keith, is a first ascentionist of many Australian climbs himself. Keith was first captivated by Mt. Roland in 1965 and attempted to get there to climb it many times over the years, but fate would not have it. Rysavy Ridge, though, was one of those climbs that stuck in his mind and heart and kept showing up in his life, calling to him. Finally in 2021 the doors to Rysavy Ridge opened for Keith.
Keeping in the first ascentionist theme, back in the U.S. we have a highly entertaining accounting of a first ascent in a very remote area of southern New Mexico, A Tale of Oso Madre. There are bears and hawks - of a mechanical sort - and lots of precarious moments of shitty rock and semi-panicked hand-drilling of bolts on lead. This story also lets you get to know the first ascentonists and this climb in a special way - through a video they created back in the day. They were ahead of their time with the whole video production thing!
In climbing there are a few firsts that often stand out - our first time climbing, our first time climbing outside (for those who start in the gym), our first time leading, and our first big climb. Bavali "Megs" Hill takes us on her first multi-pitch climb, which was on the West Face of the Three Sisters in the Blue Mountains of Australia. The Three Sisters, now closed to climbing (perhaps a last in our theme?) because of cultural, biological, and safety sensitivities, has an aboriginal tale for its origins. Bavali weaves this tale into her climbing experience, adding a lovely dimension to this piece. (We also have the first time for an author to read and record a story! Be sure to check out Bavali's reading!)
We close this edition with a review of Lyle Closs's book Climbing Glass: Climbing Articles from Five Decades - which, contains accounting of some first ascents - and two new YouTube videos:
Lastly, I am proud and excited to say that we have submitted three articles to the Banff Mountain Article awards from our FIRST published book the Common Climber Anthology and this is the FIRST time we have submitted author's works for an award. The stories are:
These articles represent unique perspectives about climbing, as well as the the diversity of climbers in our space. In Navajo Rising Aaron takes us through the Navajo origin story and how it relates to his personal climbing journey and the maturation of climbing itself. In The Unreasonable Man Wayne shares how post polio syndrome has not stopped his connection to the rock. And, in Rock! Paul, who suffered a brain injury from falling rock many years ago, passes on the mantle of climbing to his son. We are getting close to selling out our Anthology and I invite you to participate in this series of firsts by picking up your copy of this quality book - supporting these firsts.
Thank you and enjoy!
--Stef
Stefani Dawn, Editor-in-Chief
Firsts...and Last is our theme for the July 2021 edition where every story tells the tale of a first, with the exception of one story -- the unique account of a first ascentionist's last time climbing a line he had put up so many years before - Fast Forward…Rysavy Ridge Revisited by Tony McKenny. We are honored to be able to re-print Tony's 1978 account of his first ascent of that classic Tasmanian line - The Migrant Pom on Rysavy Ridge and to follow it up with his 2021 account of his final time to climb it - Fast Forward…Rysavy Ridge Revisited. How many times does a publication get to capture such a special time capsule?
We also have a third story about Rysavy Ridge (Throng of Roland) written by Keith Bell. Keith, is a first ascentionist of many Australian climbs himself. Keith was first captivated by Mt. Roland in 1965 and attempted to get there to climb it many times over the years, but fate would not have it. Rysavy Ridge, though, was one of those climbs that stuck in his mind and heart and kept showing up in his life, calling to him. Finally in 2021 the doors to Rysavy Ridge opened for Keith.
Keeping in the first ascentionist theme, back in the U.S. we have a highly entertaining accounting of a first ascent in a very remote area of southern New Mexico, A Tale of Oso Madre. There are bears and hawks - of a mechanical sort - and lots of precarious moments of shitty rock and semi-panicked hand-drilling of bolts on lead. This story also lets you get to know the first ascentonists and this climb in a special way - through a video they created back in the day. They were ahead of their time with the whole video production thing!
In climbing there are a few firsts that often stand out - our first time climbing, our first time climbing outside (for those who start in the gym), our first time leading, and our first big climb. Bavali "Megs" Hill takes us on her first multi-pitch climb, which was on the West Face of the Three Sisters in the Blue Mountains of Australia. The Three Sisters, now closed to climbing (perhaps a last in our theme?) because of cultural, biological, and safety sensitivities, has an aboriginal tale for its origins. Bavali weaves this tale into her climbing experience, adding a lovely dimension to this piece. (We also have the first time for an author to read and record a story! Be sure to check out Bavali's reading!)
We close this edition with a review of Lyle Closs's book Climbing Glass: Climbing Articles from Five Decades - which, contains accounting of some first ascents - and two new YouTube videos:
- An interview of Common Climber Assistant Editor Dave Barnes about the release of his FIRST book The Red Curtain: Climbing Expedition to Mars 2043 (you can also read the prologue and chapter 1 excerpt)
- And, a music video of climber Aaron Peterson's FIRST time attempting the beautiful and classic Red Rock Canyon, Nevada line Yin and Yang (5.11a)
Lastly, I am proud and excited to say that we have submitted three articles to the Banff Mountain Article awards from our FIRST published book the Common Climber Anthology and this is the FIRST time we have submitted author's works for an award. The stories are:
- Navajo Rising by Aaron Mike
- The Unreasonable Man by Wayne Willoughby
- Rock! by Paul Pritchard
These articles represent unique perspectives about climbing, as well as the the diversity of climbers in our space. In Navajo Rising Aaron takes us through the Navajo origin story and how it relates to his personal climbing journey and the maturation of climbing itself. In The Unreasonable Man Wayne shares how post polio syndrome has not stopped his connection to the rock. And, in Rock! Paul, who suffered a brain injury from falling rock many years ago, passes on the mantle of climbing to his son. We are getting close to selling out our Anthology and I invite you to participate in this series of firsts by picking up your copy of this quality book - supporting these firsts.
Thank you and enjoy!
--Stef
Stefani Dawn, Editor-in-Chief
Stories
Rysavy Ridge (Tasmania) Trio
A Common Climber First - We have a unique trio of stories about the ultra classic Rysavy Ridge in Tasmania, Australia. These stories take us from the first ascent of the rock by Tony McKenny (The Migrant Pom on Rysavy Ridge), to two ascents this year in 2021: A long-awaited fist-time ascent this year by Keith Bell (Throng of Roland), and likely the final ascent of it that first ascentionist Tony McKenny will do in his lifetime (Fast Forward…Rysavy Ridge Revisited).
First Ascent
The Migrant Pom on Rysavy Ridge
by Tony McKenny (First Ascentionist) Tony McKenny is a Brit (aka. Pom) who transplanted to Tasmania. In this story he shares an entertaining account (originally published in 1978) of his first ascent of the now popular and classic Tasmanian climb on Mt. Roland called "Rysavy Ridge." |
Long-Awaited First-Time Visit
Throng of Roland
by Keith Bell In 1965 Keith Bell was on his way to another Tasmanian climb when the steep, craggy Mt. Roland caught his attention. Mt. Roland planted itself in his mind like a seed, just waiting for the perfect time to come to fruition. Back home on the mainland of Australia, years passed and the seed just sat there. Every few years or so, though, Mt. Roland - and the eventual classic climb Rysavy Ridge - would enter into Keith's radar, nudging him to come. Keith tried to get there to climb it several times, but the stars never aligned. Finally, in 2021, the seed blossomed and Keith shares his experience on Rysavy Ridge. |
Last Ascent
Fast Forward…Rysavy Ridge Revisited
by Tony McKenny The first article in this series on Rysavy Ridge was written by Tony not long after his first ascent of this climb. Now, we have a very special follow-up article of what is likely Tony's final ascent of this ridge. Join Tony for one final climb in Rysavy Ridge Revisited. |
First Ascent
A Tale of Oso Madre (New Mexico, USA)
by Mike Lewis "I slumped at my desk on Monday morning in complete dysfunction before the first cup of coffee. The hearty aroma of fresh brew forced my eyes to open as I raised the mug to drink. One sip of the magic elixir jump started the chemical motor in my brain. I noticed a photograph laying on my desk which had eluded my uncaffinated vision a moment before. The photograph contained the image of a distant mountain with impressive rock walls." That image kickstarted an impressive adventure for a first ascent in the remote Capitan Mountains of southern New Mexico. (We also have a copy of the video they created about the climb back in 1992! How cool is that?! See video clips of the climb and the fun personalities of the first ascentionists.) |
First Multipitch
The Three Sisters (Blue Mountains, Australia)
by Bavali "Megs" Hill Nineteen-year-old Bavali does her first multi-pitch climb on the West Face of the Three Sisters and reflects on the Aboriginal origin story of the rocks. ED NOTE: If you enjoy listening to a story, author Bavali "Megs" Hill has recorded herself reading The Three Sisters. This is a Common Climber FIRST! |
Book Review: Climbing Glass: Climbing Articles from Five Decades
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Keith Bell writes, "Sitting on a train heading up to the Blue Mountains to meet for some climbing with my mate Bruce Cameron, I thumb through Lyle Closs’s book, Climbing Glass to pass the time. I met Lyle sometime back in the 1970’s on his visit to the Blue Mountains and It has been a pleasure to reacquaint with him in these pages. As the train leaves the plain and starts to wend its way up the mountains my thoughts go back to an earlier era..."
Keith takes us on a tour of Lyle Closs's book Climbing Glass: Climbing Articles from Five Decades which contains 16 stories from Lyle's prestigious and adventurous life as a climber. |
New YouTube Videos
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INTERVIEW:
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ATMOSPHERIC:
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STORYTELLING
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