Photo taken of the author, Stefani Dawn, by Adam McKibben
Trad Climbing (aka. traditional climbing where you place your own protection, such as nuts or cams, during a climb) is great for chicken shits. I know this because:
Although trad climbing is often thought of as being at the higher end of the rock climbing bravery scale, I would argue that this designation is variable. Indeed, it is consistently at the higher end of other rock climbing scales, including technical/technique and endurance scales, but those are distinct from bravery. Trad climbing could be categorized at the high-moderate end of the adventure scale, which has some bravery components. However, those “bravery” issues can often be overcome by trad-specific attributes that allow a “scaredy climber” like me to climb with a little less Elvis leg. Here's why:
Trad climbing forces me to climb 1-2 grades (or more) below my level, and it is perfectly acceptable to do so, if not expected.
Unless you are an elite athlete climbing 5.14s using trad gear, the rule of thumb for trad climbing is to select climbs that are at least 1-2 grades below your on-sight (outdoor) lead climbing ability. There are several reasons for this:
(1) You need to conserve energy. Trad climbs necessitate carrying significantly more weight and it takes much longer to place traditional protection on lead compared to clipping into a bolt (hence the increased endurance scale). In trad climbing you have to hold yourself in the clipping position for considerably longer – sometimes leg-crampingly longer. By climbing easier grades you are not pushed to the outer edges of your strength zone by the climb itself, thus, saving energy for these other endurance aspects of the climb.
(2) You want to reduce the risk of falling. Trad gear is expensive and, as with any large investment, you want it to last as long as possible. Falling on gear wears it out more quickly, so my preference is to not fall. Also, although properly placed gear is bomber and will certainly hold a fall, there are many circumstances that do not allow “perfect placement.” Imperfect placement increases the risk of a piece popping out either during the climb (we use long slings/runners to help prevent this) or during a fall. Again, the solution is to do a climb where you are unlikely to fall.
If the route allows it, I can place as much protection as I want AND I can place it where I want.
With sport climbing I am at the mercy of the bolter, who, 8 times out of 10 is more comfortable with run out than I and probably taller than I. Repeatedly I find myself wondering why a bolt was placed there and not here or wishing that bolt was a few inches, or even a few feet, closer. With trad climbing (assuming a route is protectable) I can place a piece whenever and wherever I like. If I feel sketchy, I can place protection. If there is decking potential or a bulge, I can strategically place a piece. If I need to rest, I can place a piece and sit. Because I have an extended level of control over the protection of my climb, I have increased control over my fear.
I can also use protection as aid if I get stuck in a hard section. There is a wonderful little desperation “aid” technique of grabbing a clipped draw and pulling up. To purists, this is may be considered cheating. To a realist, this is a tool in the rock climbing survival toolbox. Granted, I try to avoid doing this, after all I am free-climbing, not aid-climbing. But, if it’s a choice between pulling or falling, I will choose pulling. If it is a choice between finishing the lead or backing out, I will choose pulling to finish. Trad climbing allows the “desperate-aid” option if I absolutely need it.
Another beauty of trad climbing is I can build an anchor almost anywhere. On a bolted sport multi-pitch, the number of pitches and anchor locations are determined by the placement of anchor bolts. Once you start leading a sport-only pitch, you are basically committed to finishing that pitch until you reach the anchor. (Or, you can be lowered to allow the other person to lead. But, keep in mind, on a multi-pitch climb you may not be able to see your partner and communication can be difficult. Lowering is not a common request on such a climb, thus, your need to be lowered may not be clear to your partner and the risk of injury from a misunderstanding/miscommunication increases greatly.)
Since I can set up an anchor at almost any point of a trad climb, if I am running low on gear, I can build an anchor, bring up the second, and retrieve gear for the next section (or pitch) of the climb. If a pitch is too sustained or difficult (i.e. my little “desperation-aid” trick isn’t cutting it) I can build an anchor and switch leads. This is much less risky than lowering during a multi-pitch, since the communication/understanding around setting up anchors and bringing up a second is much more standard.
The last advantage to being able to build an anchor almost anywhere is the ability to bail on a climb. Although you might end up losing some expensive gear (hopefully it can be retrieved later), in an emergency or to avoid one, you can rappel to safety. This is a great mental security blanket.
The Disadvantages to Placing Lots of Protection
You may have surmised that in order to place protection when and where I want, I carry a lot of gear. Well, I do. I have two full sets of nuts, a full double set of cams from micros to 4”, I have one 5” cam, and a few triple sets of cams in commonly used ranges. To accommodate that much pro, you also have to carry enough alpine draws (with varying sizes of runners).
In case you are wondering where I place all that gear:
This much gear is both expensive and heavy – both disadvantages. Another notable disadvantage is that placing more protection takes more time.
The choices of weight, speed, gear, and frequency of placing protection are individual. Others will state their preferences and opinions, but ultimately individual decisions need to suit individual climbing style and personality. Every choice requires a sacrifice. I choose to sacrifice weight savings for the peace of mind of knowing I (likely) have enough protection for a climb. I also choose to sacrifice speed for more protection. I don’t purposefully sloth along, but I am not in a race or hurry. My goal is to enjoy the climb.
It took me years to define my own personal preferences and identify what I was willing to sacrifice in trad climbing. It also took me years to not feel lesser for my choices. Admittedly, I felt pressured by what other people were saying I should do. Although I carefully considered what they shared (indeed, it is great to learn from others), I found I had a logical counter to some common critiques.
In fairness, going slower and carrying extra weight constitutes suffering to other people. Thus, as a courtesy, I warn potential climbing partners about my propensity to bring and use a lot of gear on a trad climb. I also warn that I am slower on lead. This allows potential climbing partners to either back out or take the primary lead on a climb. (Although I do not want to always second, especially on a multi-pitch. I make this clear as well.)
The Disclaimers and Caveats
Trad climbing is safe when done correctly. It is dangerous when done incorrectly. Since trad climbing is on the upper end of the technical/technique scale, there is a lot to learn about how and where to place pro, which pro to place in a particular spot and why, how to manage gear, and how to build SERENE/ERNEST anchors. Do not underestimate or short shrift the learning process.
Trad climbing can be unpredictable. Because it is less popular, routes tend to be dirtier with loose rock and inconvenient plants, often growing out of the very spot you want to place pro or in the perfect hold.
Guidebook descriptions can be helpful, but are subjective. I always bring at least one cam size larger than the maximum size listed for a climb. If the guidebook says pro to 3” I bring at least one 4” cam. Frequently I end up using it and somehow its typically in a “thank God I have this” scenario.
A guidebook might say the climb is protectable the entire way, however that does not mean the crack is ideal. More often than not, the crack is flaring and uneven, the rock might be gritty (which decreases the friction to hold the piece), or, as described above, there may be smaller rocks or plants interfering with pro-placement. The chicken-shit (or smart?) side of me compensates for these challenges by placing back-up pieces in particularly questionable areas.
Becoming a safe and solid trad climber takes training, good mentoring, and significant practice (ideally on a top-rope assisted backup when you are first starting). Although trad climbing is good for scaredy-climbers like me, the first few leads are admittedly fear-inducing, and the first few falls on your pro are even scarier (yes, I have gotten suitably sandbagged on several climbs and fallen on pro – fortunately, none popped). But once you get past those barriers, trad climbing opens up many new doors and provides unparalleled control for more relaxed climbing well into the future.
- I am a chicken shit;
- I absolutely love trad climbing; and
- I love it because it let’s me be a chicken shit and climb with less fear.
Although trad climbing is often thought of as being at the higher end of the rock climbing bravery scale, I would argue that this designation is variable. Indeed, it is consistently at the higher end of other rock climbing scales, including technical/technique and endurance scales, but those are distinct from bravery. Trad climbing could be categorized at the high-moderate end of the adventure scale, which has some bravery components. However, those “bravery” issues can often be overcome by trad-specific attributes that allow a “scaredy climber” like me to climb with a little less Elvis leg. Here's why:
Trad climbing forces me to climb 1-2 grades (or more) below my level, and it is perfectly acceptable to do so, if not expected.
Unless you are an elite athlete climbing 5.14s using trad gear, the rule of thumb for trad climbing is to select climbs that are at least 1-2 grades below your on-sight (outdoor) lead climbing ability. There are several reasons for this:
(1) You need to conserve energy. Trad climbs necessitate carrying significantly more weight and it takes much longer to place traditional protection on lead compared to clipping into a bolt (hence the increased endurance scale). In trad climbing you have to hold yourself in the clipping position for considerably longer – sometimes leg-crampingly longer. By climbing easier grades you are not pushed to the outer edges of your strength zone by the climb itself, thus, saving energy for these other endurance aspects of the climb.
(2) You want to reduce the risk of falling. Trad gear is expensive and, as with any large investment, you want it to last as long as possible. Falling on gear wears it out more quickly, so my preference is to not fall. Also, although properly placed gear is bomber and will certainly hold a fall, there are many circumstances that do not allow “perfect placement.” Imperfect placement increases the risk of a piece popping out either during the climb (we use long slings/runners to help prevent this) or during a fall. Again, the solution is to do a climb where you are unlikely to fall.
If the route allows it, I can place as much protection as I want AND I can place it where I want.
With sport climbing I am at the mercy of the bolter, who, 8 times out of 10 is more comfortable with run out than I and probably taller than I. Repeatedly I find myself wondering why a bolt was placed there and not here or wishing that bolt was a few inches, or even a few feet, closer. With trad climbing (assuming a route is protectable) I can place a piece whenever and wherever I like. If I feel sketchy, I can place protection. If there is decking potential or a bulge, I can strategically place a piece. If I need to rest, I can place a piece and sit. Because I have an extended level of control over the protection of my climb, I have increased control over my fear.
I can also use protection as aid if I get stuck in a hard section. There is a wonderful little desperation “aid” technique of grabbing a clipped draw and pulling up. To purists, this is may be considered cheating. To a realist, this is a tool in the rock climbing survival toolbox. Granted, I try to avoid doing this, after all I am free-climbing, not aid-climbing. But, if it’s a choice between pulling or falling, I will choose pulling. If it is a choice between finishing the lead or backing out, I will choose pulling to finish. Trad climbing allows the “desperate-aid” option if I absolutely need it.
Another beauty of trad climbing is I can build an anchor almost anywhere. On a bolted sport multi-pitch, the number of pitches and anchor locations are determined by the placement of anchor bolts. Once you start leading a sport-only pitch, you are basically committed to finishing that pitch until you reach the anchor. (Or, you can be lowered to allow the other person to lead. But, keep in mind, on a multi-pitch climb you may not be able to see your partner and communication can be difficult. Lowering is not a common request on such a climb, thus, your need to be lowered may not be clear to your partner and the risk of injury from a misunderstanding/miscommunication increases greatly.)
Since I can set up an anchor at almost any point of a trad climb, if I am running low on gear, I can build an anchor, bring up the second, and retrieve gear for the next section (or pitch) of the climb. If a pitch is too sustained or difficult (i.e. my little “desperation-aid” trick isn’t cutting it) I can build an anchor and switch leads. This is much less risky than lowering during a multi-pitch, since the communication/understanding around setting up anchors and bringing up a second is much more standard.
The last advantage to being able to build an anchor almost anywhere is the ability to bail on a climb. Although you might end up losing some expensive gear (hopefully it can be retrieved later), in an emergency or to avoid one, you can rappel to safety. This is a great mental security blanket.
The Disadvantages to Placing Lots of Protection
You may have surmised that in order to place protection when and where I want, I carry a lot of gear. Well, I do. I have two full sets of nuts, a full double set of cams from micros to 4”, I have one 5” cam, and a few triple sets of cams in commonly used ranges. To accommodate that much pro, you also have to carry enough alpine draws (with varying sizes of runners).
In case you are wondering where I place all that gear:
- 4 or 5 complete alpine draws (with two carabiners), which I use with nuts, go on my harness (which has 6 gear loops – see my review of this amazing harness);
- The rest of the gear I wear across my chest. This includes the cams and runners with a single carabiner which I use with the cams (the second carabiner is already on the cam).
This much gear is both expensive and heavy – both disadvantages. Another notable disadvantage is that placing more protection takes more time.
The choices of weight, speed, gear, and frequency of placing protection are individual. Others will state their preferences and opinions, but ultimately individual decisions need to suit individual climbing style and personality. Every choice requires a sacrifice. I choose to sacrifice weight savings for the peace of mind of knowing I (likely) have enough protection for a climb. I also choose to sacrifice speed for more protection. I don’t purposefully sloth along, but I am not in a race or hurry. My goal is to enjoy the climb.
It took me years to define my own personal preferences and identify what I was willing to sacrifice in trad climbing. It also took me years to not feel lesser for my choices. Admittedly, I felt pressured by what other people were saying I should do. Although I carefully considered what they shared (indeed, it is great to learn from others), I found I had a logical counter to some common critiques.
- “You are going too slow. What if a thunderstorm comes or we run out of light?” My response: Look at the weather forecast, start early, and bring a headlamp (which you should always do anyway).
- “Don’t you know that carrying all that weight is counter productive?” Not if I’m strong enough to carry it and, more aptly, being scared is counter productive. When I am not scared I can move along smoothly.
In fairness, going slower and carrying extra weight constitutes suffering to other people. Thus, as a courtesy, I warn potential climbing partners about my propensity to bring and use a lot of gear on a trad climb. I also warn that I am slower on lead. This allows potential climbing partners to either back out or take the primary lead on a climb. (Although I do not want to always second, especially on a multi-pitch. I make this clear as well.)
The Disclaimers and Caveats
Trad climbing is safe when done correctly. It is dangerous when done incorrectly. Since trad climbing is on the upper end of the technical/technique scale, there is a lot to learn about how and where to place pro, which pro to place in a particular spot and why, how to manage gear, and how to build SERENE/ERNEST anchors. Do not underestimate or short shrift the learning process.
Trad climbing can be unpredictable. Because it is less popular, routes tend to be dirtier with loose rock and inconvenient plants, often growing out of the very spot you want to place pro or in the perfect hold.
Guidebook descriptions can be helpful, but are subjective. I always bring at least one cam size larger than the maximum size listed for a climb. If the guidebook says pro to 3” I bring at least one 4” cam. Frequently I end up using it and somehow its typically in a “thank God I have this” scenario.
A guidebook might say the climb is protectable the entire way, however that does not mean the crack is ideal. More often than not, the crack is flaring and uneven, the rock might be gritty (which decreases the friction to hold the piece), or, as described above, there may be smaller rocks or plants interfering with pro-placement. The chicken-shit (or smart?) side of me compensates for these challenges by placing back-up pieces in particularly questionable areas.
Becoming a safe and solid trad climber takes training, good mentoring, and significant practice (ideally on a top-rope assisted backup when you are first starting). Although trad climbing is good for scaredy-climbers like me, the first few leads are admittedly fear-inducing, and the first few falls on your pro are even scarier (yes, I have gotten suitably sandbagged on several climbs and fallen on pro – fortunately, none popped). But once you get past those barriers, trad climbing opens up many new doors and provides unparalleled control for more relaxed climbing well into the future.