Arc’teryx FL-365 Harness
 
My current harness has been a very good friend of mine, so when my wife suggested that it was time to move on I was very resistant. “But…this one’s just fine…and it’s been with me from the beginning!” I protested.

This was my first harness that has saved me from an uncountable number of falls. It is a Black Diamond Blizzard (at least I think it is, as there are no more identifying features on it) that I bought when I began sport climbing in South Korea…in 2005. It was, and still is, a beast that is going strong. But, you know…11 years old with a lot of use…in the sun…in the dirt…at sea cliffs. While waxing on about how it has stood the test of time and abuse, I slowly and inadvertently convinced myself that it was indeed time to move on.
 
It took a couple of months to go through the acceptance period of losing a good friend and I just didn’t have the heart to try on other harnesses. I looked at the options at the gym every time I passed the counter but I just didn’t have it in me. I should also say that I’m not a huge fan of change and I absolutely hate shopping. But one day I had enough and was ready.

I didn’t really have a preference for a specific model or brand, but rather a few important features – comfort for hanging belays, self-locking buckle, easy gear on/off, simplicity. A couple harnesses stood out to me that I had to ask about…“Those Arc’teryx harnesses have zero padding – what are they thinking?” The gym attendant’s face changed from his usual jovial smile to dead serious – “I think it’s the weight distribution or something but you’d be amazed at the comfort.”  “Hmm…” I thought to myself, “Arc’teryx does have quite a reputation and this guy is pretty impressed.”
 
“OK, I’ll give it a try,” I said.  He gave me the FL-365 and a few others to try on.
 
I put it on – nothing special. I tied into a rope and hung – Hey there…way more comfortable than my Blizzard. I climbed a few feet up and jumped off – Wow! I could not believe how comfortable this harness was! The other harnesses I tried on didn’t even compare and I left that evening with a newly purchased FL-365.
 
I have used it several times outdoors including on a multipitch with hanging belays, and this harness surpasses any of my dreams of comfortable climbing and belaying.
 
The attendant at the gym told us an interesting side note regarding the construction and comfort. An Arc’teryx rep came in and explained that most harnesses have a strip of webbing that passes through the harness, which provides the structural integrity. What Arc’teryx has done is take that webbing and cut the vertical strands in order to spread the horizontal strands throughout the width of the waist belt (and leg loops). This is how it distributes your weight and is also how they can get it so thin. The best part of this story is that “a little old lady” does this by hand for each harness because the cost of the machine to do this would be far too expensive.
 
Here are more specifics about the harness…
 
The size:
I’ve read several reviews that say these harnesses run small. One reviewer said the Medium was too small for his 31/32” waist and had to get a Large (the manufacturer recommendation for Medium is 31” – 34”). I have a 31/32” waist and have a medium cranked all the way closed, so I recommend sizing it up for yourself by trying it on first.
 
Pro’s:

• Fast and Light (that’s actually what the FL stands for);
• Comfortable beyond your dreams – even in a hanging belay;
• Fixed elasticized leg loops (the AR-365a has adjustable leg loops);
• 4 gear loops and 4 ice clipper loops (the SL-340 has two gear loops);
• Compact – you can roll it up the size of a softball.

 
Con’s:

• The price (it is about triple a basic harness);
• The chalk bag loop (which is the same as the haul loop) is a horizontal band, which, if you use a carabiner to clip…it will always be rotated 90 degrees. (Why is it so hard for harness designers to realize this?!?!);
  • I was able to get around this by mounting my chalk bag loop directly onto the clip between the drop seat bungies (see picture below);
• Gear loops are a little floppy for my preference;
• No color options (though I like the green so this is not a con for me).

 
PS, If you’re concerned about my old friend Blizzard, he’s still with me, but now a dedicated gym harness.