Happy New Year!
Welcome to the January-February 2023 edition of Common Climber!
Welcome to the January-February 2023 edition of Common Climber!
Editorial
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I want to begin this editorial by sharing why I selected this photo as the cover shot for this edition.
Because it represents Common Climbers. Who hasn't sat around a fire and talked about our day of climbing, reliving the best and scariest moments? Who hasn't looked across the flames and seen those who gave you a catch and shouted "you got this!" while feeling a deep appreciation for the good souls sitting by your side? Most of us have, and we are better for it. It's part of climbing. What's also in this photo is representation - inclusion of everyone and anyone who wishes to ascend the rock. Common Climbers are about a community of people who give of their time, support and welcome others, know what the rock has given to them personally and want to pay it forward. |
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Speaking of "forward," we are all embarking on a new year together as this giant ball of rock (oh, how sweet that sounds!) makes another pass around the sun. On January 1, we often give additional weight to looking forward, asking ourselves the very personal question of "What's next?"
I'm guessing climbing is on the list for all of us. But an additional "What's next?" on my personal list is continuing to share the stories of Common Climbers - making the narrative of "us," no matter where you are in your climbing journey or whether you roll yourself up to the wall, one that is celebrated and valued.
We also highlight several stories of other climber's "What's next?" Erik Schäfer continues to put his climbing life on hold to help the people of Ukraine, who have been suffering from a cruel war for a year now. Josie McKee overcomes the trauma of witnessing and rescuing a good friend from a fall and moves into mindset coaching to help herself and others. Rand Abbott seeks to create the first climbing guide certification - Single Pitch Instructor Adaptive - fighting for the inclusion of adaptive climbers in leadership and guiding. And, a young 15-year-old Joseph "JG Rock" Rouse, starts his own business making unique climbing inventions you never knew you needed - Slapchalks and the Refill Ring (which we are giving away January 15-22!).
Of course we also have stories that highlight entertaining and interesting Common Climber experiences: Matt Tredway's attempt to climb the Matterhorn in the summer (which is often not advised); A trifecta of tales about the same climb done by a party of four on the Petit Dru, along with a ton of other climbers from around the world racing to the top, and a tribute to Paul Seddon - creator of some of the earliest manufactured nuts and the first manufactured harness (Whillan's Harness) - who passed late in 2022.
I hope you all enjoy this edition. If you do, one very appreciated way you can help "pay it forward" is to share links to to the stories you love and follow us on Instagram and Facebook.
I wish all of you a very wonderful New Year of climbing!
-- Stef
Stefani Dawn, Editor-in-Chief
Common Climber
I'm guessing climbing is on the list for all of us. But an additional "What's next?" on my personal list is continuing to share the stories of Common Climbers - making the narrative of "us," no matter where you are in your climbing journey or whether you roll yourself up to the wall, one that is celebrated and valued.
We also highlight several stories of other climber's "What's next?" Erik Schäfer continues to put his climbing life on hold to help the people of Ukraine, who have been suffering from a cruel war for a year now. Josie McKee overcomes the trauma of witnessing and rescuing a good friend from a fall and moves into mindset coaching to help herself and others. Rand Abbott seeks to create the first climbing guide certification - Single Pitch Instructor Adaptive - fighting for the inclusion of adaptive climbers in leadership and guiding. And, a young 15-year-old Joseph "JG Rock" Rouse, starts his own business making unique climbing inventions you never knew you needed - Slapchalks and the Refill Ring (which we are giving away January 15-22!).
Of course we also have stories that highlight entertaining and interesting Common Climber experiences: Matt Tredway's attempt to climb the Matterhorn in the summer (which is often not advised); A trifecta of tales about the same climb done by a party of four on the Petit Dru, along with a ton of other climbers from around the world racing to the top, and a tribute to Paul Seddon - creator of some of the earliest manufactured nuts and the first manufactured harness (Whillan's Harness) - who passed late in 2022.
I hope you all enjoy this edition. If you do, one very appreciated way you can help "pay it forward" is to share links to to the stories you love and follow us on Instagram and Facebook.
I wish all of you a very wonderful New Year of climbing!
-- Stef
Stefani Dawn, Editor-in-Chief
Common Climber
Stories
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The Alps Will Have to Wait
By Daga Dygas Erik Schäfer is a climber and the founder of H.O.P.E. (Humanitarian Operations, Provisions, Essentials), who has put his climbing life on hold, dropped his job, and put his studies to one side, to spontaneously concentrate on one thing: bringing help where he can to the people of Ukraine. |
Josie McKee: Training the Mind for Joy
By Kaybe Loughran Josie McKee was speed climbing the Nose with Quinn Brett when Quinn's accident happened. Josie's YOSAR training paid off that day, but the mental and emotional toll of such a personal event lead Josie to some new directions in climbing. |
The Matterhorn
By Matt Tredway Ahhh, climbing the Matterhorn in the summer..."A few hikers, seeing the climbing gear on our backpacks, offered warnings: 'The mountain is closed, you should turn back... You can catch the gondola.' That conjured up the movie scene from Vacation, when John Candy, security guard at Wally World, delivered bad news to the Griswald family: "Sorry folks, park's closed!” We had accounted for this, and were prepared we assured them..." |
Single Pitch Instructor Adaptive: It's About Climbing Independence
By Stefani Dawn Rand Abbott has been trying to become a certified guide, but he keeps hearing "no" because he is in a wheelchair. There is a need for leadership and adaptive climbing representation in the guiding world. Rand seeks to overcome these biases against those with disabilities, aiming to develop the first Single Pitch Instructor Adaptive guide certification. In November 2022, Rand also hosted the first adaptive-climber-lead adaptive climbing clinic in partnership with the California Climbing School in Joshua Tree, California. |
Stories - Three-fer
This edition we have a unique three-fer! In 1971, four young Aussie friends go to Chamonix, France to climb the North Face of the Petit Dru (among other things). The Petit Dru is an 800-meter (2,625-feet) mixed rock and ice climb. Keith Bell, John Fantini, Chris Baxter, and Howard Bevan pair up (Keith and John, Chris and Howard) and unknowingly enter into a no-holds-barred race to the top in this challenging terrain with 10+ other parties. The friends end up losing track of each other while on the mountain and have completely different experiences - each described here in Common Climber in a unique "tale of three climbs" set of stories.
Horses for Courses: The Dru Derby 1971
By Keith Bell Keith Bells humorous version of the "Dru Derby." |
My Drew Derby
By Howard Bevan Howard Bevan's light-hearted version of the race to the top - even though he is the one who was injured in the process. |
The North Face of the Dru: A Reprint from Thrutch
By Chris Baxter Chris Baxter's shares a more detailed, more dramatic, account of the story - written not long after it happened. Common Climber is excited to have the originally published version for you here (from the climbing magazine Thrutch in 1971). |
Marketplace
SLAPCHALKS - A Small Climbing Business Interview
15-year-old Joseph Rouse tells Common Climber about his unique inventions and business - SLAPCHALKS and the Refill Ring. |
Tribute
From a Nut to a Harness: A Tribute to Paul Seddon, The Third Troll
By Keith Bell Climber, inventor, and Troll co-founder Paul Seddon passed on November 3, 2022 at the age of 82. Author Keith Bell provides a historic review of Paul's contributions to our world of climbing - including some of the earliest manufactured nuts in the climbing world and the first manufactured climbing harness - the Whillan Harness. |
Giveaway!
January 15-22, 2023
(7 winners will be announced January 23)
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CONGRATULATIONS! We have the winners of the @slapchalks giveaway! @yankeemike7100 - loose-fit shorts and the water bottle @racecarninja - compression shorts @sky_ninja_ct - refill ring 1 @kleiserd - refill ring 2 @life_with_a_ninja - refill ring 3 |
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