OVERCOMING BOUNDARIES EDITION
Interview: Louise Shepherd, Mount Arapiles, Australia
October 2019
Louise Shepherd is a 61-year-old guide and guardian of Mount Arapiles in Australia. She has lived in the area throughout her climbing life. Louise began climbing in 1978 and still climbs to this day – even through radiation and chemotherapy for a sarcoma cancer in her arm.
Louise’s resume includes being the strongest female climber in the world in the early1980’s, the first female ascent of Separate Reality in Yosemite, and establishing string of hard, often on gear, first ascents in South Eastern Australia.
Louise has been a leading figure in the Australian climbing scene and still climbs and guides at her home, Mount Arapiles. Common Climber chatted with Louise about her climbing career and the people she has met along the way.
Interview: Louise Shepherd, Mount Arapiles, Australia
October 2019
Louise Shepherd is a 61-year-old guide and guardian of Mount Arapiles in Australia. She has lived in the area throughout her climbing life. Louise began climbing in 1978 and still climbs to this day – even through radiation and chemotherapy for a sarcoma cancer in her arm.
Louise’s resume includes being the strongest female climber in the world in the early1980’s, the first female ascent of Separate Reality in Yosemite, and establishing string of hard, often on gear, first ascents in South Eastern Australia.
Louise has been a leading figure in the Australian climbing scene and still climbs and guides at her home, Mount Arapiles. Common Climber chatted with Louise about her climbing career and the people she has met along the way.
Q: What makes Louise happy today? What makes you laugh!
I smile when I see the budding flowerheads of leopard orchids, mosquito orchids and chocolate lilies at my favorite haunts at Arapiles.
Last week, Brigitte Muir and I and some locals assisted Professor Brian Timms from UNSW sample the biota in the gnammas (rock pools) on top of Arapiles.
What's so exciting is that it's highly likely we have found a new species of shield shrimp! It's a joy to see the 86-year-old Prof carting nets and jars across rocky terrain with the eagerness of a teenager.
What made me laugh yesterday was watching my usually dignified 8- and 10-year-old niece and nephew screaming whilst being chased around by my naked 3-year-old neighbour wielding a fly swat.
Q: Rock climbing has been a bedrock in your life. How did that begin?
I started climbing 41 years ago when Kym Smith, my boyfriend at that time, suggested we try it. We knew nothing about climbing. We bought a plastic yellow rope from a boating store and walked up Elephant’s Hide in the Grampians trailing this yellow rope behind us. We got to the top and tied the rope somehow around a boulder and went hand over hand down the back of the boulder, burning our hands in the process.
Eventually we found a guy in the Adelaide suburbs who sold proper climbing gear. This was in the late 70s before there were any climbing retailers in Adelaide.
The yellow rope was re-appropriated as a washing line.
I smile when I see the budding flowerheads of leopard orchids, mosquito orchids and chocolate lilies at my favorite haunts at Arapiles.
Last week, Brigitte Muir and I and some locals assisted Professor Brian Timms from UNSW sample the biota in the gnammas (rock pools) on top of Arapiles.
What's so exciting is that it's highly likely we have found a new species of shield shrimp! It's a joy to see the 86-year-old Prof carting nets and jars across rocky terrain with the eagerness of a teenager.
What made me laugh yesterday was watching my usually dignified 8- and 10-year-old niece and nephew screaming whilst being chased around by my naked 3-year-old neighbour wielding a fly swat.
Q: Rock climbing has been a bedrock in your life. How did that begin?
I started climbing 41 years ago when Kym Smith, my boyfriend at that time, suggested we try it. We knew nothing about climbing. We bought a plastic yellow rope from a boating store and walked up Elephant’s Hide in the Grampians trailing this yellow rope behind us. We got to the top and tied the rope somehow around a boulder and went hand over hand down the back of the boulder, burning our hands in the process.
Eventually we found a guy in the Adelaide suburbs who sold proper climbing gear. This was in the late 70s before there were any climbing retailers in Adelaide.
The yellow rope was re-appropriated as a washing line.
2018: Louise on Tannin (19/5.10b), a traditional climb in Mt. Arapiles, Australia. The bandage on her arm was placed there following radiation to treat a sarcoma cancer prior to surgery.
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Q: Rock climbing in the 70’s and 80’s was a stand out era. How do you remember your experience? The head of my secondary school once told us that our school days are the happiest days of our lives. I was thinking that he had to be wrong. He was. Having the freedom to direct one's own life was so much more fun than being at school. The future was replete with open-ended possibilities. Q: You have nailed some outstanding climbing Louise what were the key climbing moments for you? Today’s included if you like. I recall getting to the top of Lord of the Flies, an E6 (5.12c) in Wales, with a reputation for being a bold lead, and hearing a number of car horns tooting from the valley floor. I wondered what they were tooting at! This was in 1985 - I think. It was the first female ascent of that route. Another moment was on Crimson Cringe in 1981, a difficult sustained grade 25 (5.12a) crack in Yosemite Valley. A friend Craig was belaying me and we were using his rope. I was only 3 or 4 metres from the top when Craig yelled that there was a bad cut in the rope, I yelled back down, clip in now and start climbing; I'm not giving up now! So we simulclimbed the last few metres of the route. |
1980s: Louise on Anxiety Neurosis (26/5.12b) a traditional climb in Mt. Arapiles, Australia.
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Q: Can you give us a recollection of your hardest ascent and the time it was and who you were climbing with?
Procul Harem was hard (26; 5.12a); it took me 3 days. But once I got the crux, which is quite low on the route, I didn't fall off the upper section, which claims a few blow-outs apparently. I remember thinking the Enduro Corner of Astroman being one of the toughest leads I'd done. I'm fairly sure that was with Dave Fearnley, but I've got a crap memory. Denim was also memorable. I fell off the bottom roof which is not the crux, went back down and then flashed it next try.
Q: Where were the places you climbed around the world. Any route from one of those trips stand out?
I travelled overseas a lot in the 80s and a bit less in the 90s, and these days a lot less, at least overseas. My last overseas trip was to Squamish in Canada four years ago. The best route I did there was Angel Crest, a 12 pitch grade 21 (5.10d) arete. It took us 12 hours!
Q: Who did you climb with over there?
Donald Poe who is an ex-client. I guided him on and off for 13 years, taught him to lead and so on. I'm risk-averse these days so he's a very safe climber!
Q: In your early career was there any misogynist behaviour around you and if so how did you deal with it.
There probably was a bit of sexism here and there, but I don't remember any stand-out incidences. It helps to have had the respect of the broader climbing community.
Procul Harem was hard (26; 5.12a); it took me 3 days. But once I got the crux, which is quite low on the route, I didn't fall off the upper section, which claims a few blow-outs apparently. I remember thinking the Enduro Corner of Astroman being one of the toughest leads I'd done. I'm fairly sure that was with Dave Fearnley, but I've got a crap memory. Denim was also memorable. I fell off the bottom roof which is not the crux, went back down and then flashed it next try.
Q: Where were the places you climbed around the world. Any route from one of those trips stand out?
I travelled overseas a lot in the 80s and a bit less in the 90s, and these days a lot less, at least overseas. My last overseas trip was to Squamish in Canada four years ago. The best route I did there was Angel Crest, a 12 pitch grade 21 (5.10d) arete. It took us 12 hours!
Q: Who did you climb with over there?
Donald Poe who is an ex-client. I guided him on and off for 13 years, taught him to lead and so on. I'm risk-averse these days so he's a very safe climber!
Q: In your early career was there any misogynist behaviour around you and if so how did you deal with it.
There probably was a bit of sexism here and there, but I don't remember any stand-out incidences. It helps to have had the respect of the broader climbing community.
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Q: You were one of the principal women in the world to climb as hard as many of the guys and forged a path, an athlete’s path, and got women to follow. Do you accept your place in climbing history? What other women were part of this?
Yes I feel pleased with my achievements, actually humbled by the strength of my younger self. I remember Chris Baxter quipping that youth is wasted on the young and that is one thing Chris Baxter was right about! Every athlete has their antecedents. In Australia, mine were Dot Butler, Coral Bowman and Ann Pauligk. If so what message would you like to send to your peers who are climbing hard and pushing boundaries right now? Are there any you have an eye out for now in The world who are pushing new edges? Hazel Findlay is someone who takes on hard bold trad routes and that's refreshing. Monique Forestier is very impressive on hard sustained sport, and still pushing herself. There are probably dozens of women climbers out there doing incredible feats, but I'm not following the scene or social media much at all. |
Q: Who is Louise Shepherd today? What does she do?
I'm 61 and still climbing, albeit at a rather bumbly level these days. I went climbing this morning!
These days I climb for several reasons - health, social, being outdoors. I'm still guiding and instructing at Arapiles. I take a few of the local kids climbing - mainly my 10 year old nephew Joseph and some of his mates. I travel, almost entirely within Australia these days.
I support my 86-year-old mother who complains endlessly about being a physical wreck but she still lives independently and has all her marbles! I have chooks and a veggie patch and live in a share house. I treasure living in this community of Natimuk, I feel very lucky.
Q: The Grampians and Arapiles access issues is a serious challenge. What would you advise we do as a climbing Community?
I think we as a community need to take a breath and respectfully listen, learn and take the time to hear the others' perspectives. We need to go through this process before engaging in dialogue. We need to critically re-examine our practices and subject them to scrutiny.
I'm 61 and still climbing, albeit at a rather bumbly level these days. I went climbing this morning!
These days I climb for several reasons - health, social, being outdoors. I'm still guiding and instructing at Arapiles. I take a few of the local kids climbing - mainly my 10 year old nephew Joseph and some of his mates. I travel, almost entirely within Australia these days.
I support my 86-year-old mother who complains endlessly about being a physical wreck but she still lives independently and has all her marbles! I have chooks and a veggie patch and live in a share house. I treasure living in this community of Natimuk, I feel very lucky.
Q: The Grampians and Arapiles access issues is a serious challenge. What would you advise we do as a climbing Community?
I think we as a community need to take a breath and respectfully listen, learn and take the time to hear the others' perspectives. We need to go through this process before engaging in dialogue. We need to critically re-examine our practices and subject them to scrutiny.