Vertical Life published an abridged version of this story in edition number 42. This is the full, uncut version.
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The internet and its endless chatter churns out climbing news and climber exploits faster than gossip. Amongst the noise there is still gold to be found in them there hills for the climbers who have the audacity to wear the crown of king lines. French climber, Seb Bouin is a prince of these times and on November 1st, 2022, his ascent of Supreme Jumbo Love (5.15c/38) at Clark Mountain in California filled the climbing world’s headlines. At the time Seb shared with me his experience through snippets of voice mail, sometimes in his car, others at the crag, and a few times at home. This communication sums up his modus operandi.
Seb is the man of the moment, a Frenchman on a mission and holds the title for the World’s hardest climb with his ascent of DNA at the Verdon Gorge in France in 2021, equal with Adam Ondra’s, Silence, at Flatanger, Norway. Both climbs are graded 9c (5.15d/39). Seb isn’t focused solely on the numbers though; he is a climber who froths from experiences. For him, rock, place, culture, and people combined, are what makes a good line great. The climb Jumbo Love (5.15b/37) - developed by Randy Leavitt who put in an extensive effort to send the line in the 1990’s, and completed by Chris Sharma in 2008 - had the ingredients for a great climbing omelette. Like the rest of us, after being quarantined by Covid, Seb was hungry. "Jumbo Love inspired me when I was a boy starting out climbing. In 2016 I saw some Reel Rock film of Chris Sharma climbing Jumbo Love. It was my style of climbing. I was really attracted to being alone in the middle of nowhere. For me it’s not just about climbing, it’s also the adventure.” In 2010 Chris followed his Jumbo Love send with a 21-meter (65 foot) direct start grading that, at 5.14d/35, was he unable to complete. Even so, the direct start, coupled with Jumbo Love made for near 80-meters (260 feet) of the hardest climbing yet visioned in the United States. Even with the size and depth of the American climbing scene, the two sections had not been linked. It presented a perfect lure for Seb. The quality of climbers who had invested time in the line also added to the appeal. |
Seb Bouin on his redpoint of "Supreme Jumbo Love." "Supreme Jumbo Love" (5.15c/38) is the climb "Jumbo Love" (5.15b/37, 80 meters/260 feet) plus a harder 65-foot-long (21 meter) direct start. (Photo Credit: Clarisse Bompard, IG: @clarisse.bombard)
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Quietly, Seb was gleaning beta about Jumbo Love from those few that had sent it. Jonathan Siegrist, one of the few that had sent JL, shared the following with a grin:
"I knew Seb was coming to the U.S. for JL because he asked me about it the previous year in Spain. I told him that I felt this route would be so perfect for him and knowing his insanely technical style with the knee bars, I knew he would find some methods that worked well for him.”
"I knew Seb was coming to the U.S. for JL because he asked me about it the previous year in Spain. I told him that I felt this route would be so perfect for him and knowing his insanely technical style with the knee bars, I knew he would find some methods that worked well for him.”
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Seb was wising up, but it wasn’t just a hard climb in the United States he wanted to plunder, he saw an opportunity to complete the hardest - and be enlightened by the process.
"I envisaged this trip as an opportunity to complete a climb which inspired me. This is what attracted me to Jumbo Love. It was also about the direct start. I had spoken with Chris about Jumbo Love, and he said there was something harder and beautiful.”
"I envisaged this trip as an opportunity to complete a climb which inspired me. This is what attracted me to Jumbo Love. It was also about the direct start. I had spoken with Chris about Jumbo Love, and he said there was something harder and beautiful.”
It became a double objective; Seb would try JL and if it worked out, link the direct. Covid had limited Seb’s opportunity to travel, and he hadn’t journeyed far from France in the past. So, for Seb, he could invest in a goal and enjoy being in a place in the middle of nowhere. These two attractions made it a perfect cocktail.
"Scoping pictures of the colossal overhanging wall and gaining psyche from Chris, who shared with me that this was up there with the hardest routes in the World, I was determined to experience it for myself.”
"Scoping pictures of the colossal overhanging wall and gaining psyche from Chris, who shared with me that this was up there with the hardest routes in the World, I was determined to experience it for myself.”
The die was cast. Climbing at Clark is weather dependent. September was too hot. October was still hot, and November was far too cold; he just needed to find a good window.
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It took three days for Seb and Clarisse Bompard (Seb’s Photographer) to travel to America from Europe. Seb and Clarisse had to change cars three times and even became stuck in Calgary on route, so it was no easy ride to the crag. Seb was physically and mentally unready for the fight on arrival. Jet lag had messed with his metabolism and adjusting to the new time zones was tiring. Seb needed a week to get back in shape. On the dusty drive through the Mojave Desert and on arrival at Clark Mountain he accepted that this ain’t Paris and that this foreign landscape would add to the challenge. Seb shared with me, “The landscape was hot and dry throughout the day and cool in the evenings. It smelt like death. Everything was aggressive.”
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Seb saw alien creatures that bite and sting, even a tarantula, which sent a slivering shiver up his spine. Clark Mountain is high and dry, more than 2000m (6500 feet) above sea level. This was not the cow-bell pastures and forested crag of his homeland. That being said, the reports of the exceptional quality of limestone found there must have added to his draw for visiting.
"We were quite alone in the desert for ten days. For me it was a rough road to travel to the area and from the parking bay, the lengthy switch-back walk to the crag became a healthy wake up. It was surprising seeing the beauty of the desert, it was wild, but beautiful. It was a place where alone finds a home. On seeing the climb, I was impressed but not intimidated. I had received inside beta by the folks who had completed the climb previously.” It’s awkward to piece the puzzle of a king line together in a foreign land. Jonathan gave me a feel for what Seb encountered on Jumbo Love. “The route is so pumpy with generally not-so-bad holds (aside from the infamous crux which is all about a bad right-hand pinch and a mono). It’s just so involved principally because of its length; sixty metres (190 feet) of extremely hard climbing.” Having friendly natives to assist and navigate the intricacies of rock, weather, and logistics, maximises time on a project. Seb was pleased to have key folks like Chris to share beta, and BJ Tilden, Nate and Dustin Rastnick, Katherine (Nate’s wife), and Randy Leavitt there to support and inspire him. On hearing of Seb’s arrival, Randy came by plane to provide history and beta of the place and the climb. The others in the party were also stoked as they were able to hear firsthand of the genesis of the climb from its original contender. Seb was warmed by their stoke. “Randy was a big inspiration to Chris and Chris was a big inspiration to me.” |
Frenchman and world-class climber meets some American wildlife - a tarantula (which look scary but are harmless). (Photo Credit: Clarisse Bompard, IG: @clarisse.bombard)
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In hindsight, this was the foundation of Seb’s story in the Jumbo Love-affair shared by an elite few. Seb enjoys history, and his pilgrimage to repeat French classics and climb with the climbers’ who first sent them, is well documented. He savoured listening to Randy froth over the intricacies of the route and the effort he had placed in sending it. During our conversation, Seb’s psyche for the climb amplified. With his bunny hopping French/English accent he said,
“Listening to these guys, it was 100% passion. That and the adventure of this type of climbing trip and of course, I knew I really wanted to climb it.”
He began piecing the plan together. Steve Rolston (a friend of Alex Honnold) assisted Seb to find the crag and parking in the first days. He too was trying Jumbo Love, so his beta was valuable. He confirmed with Seb the gravity of the grade and its place at the tipping point of American rock climbing. It was 5.15b (37) and a part of America’s history. Seb felt he could add an asterisk to that story and he continued to mine as much beta as he could as he sized the climb up. He also had been in conversation with Randy Leavitt.
“Listening to these guys, it was 100% passion. That and the adventure of this type of climbing trip and of course, I knew I really wanted to climb it.”
He began piecing the plan together. Steve Rolston (a friend of Alex Honnold) assisted Seb to find the crag and parking in the first days. He too was trying Jumbo Love, so his beta was valuable. He confirmed with Seb the gravity of the grade and its place at the tipping point of American rock climbing. It was 5.15b (37) and a part of America’s history. Seb felt he could add an asterisk to that story and he continued to mine as much beta as he could as he sized the climb up. He also had been in conversation with Randy Leavitt.
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“I didn’t ask Randy for the beta but definitely we were speaking about it. Prior to my arrival we had tennis texted and his excitement flourished, and he wanted to come and see me, so we worked out between us which was the closest airport.”
Chris Sharma had recent beta but in the most part Seb gathered it on his own in the Jumbo Love network that he was tying into, and his mind began to piece together an audacious plan.
“The Direct was on my mind. JL was the original plan and if I succeeded on Jumbo Love, I would just try the direct and see how far I could go and decide if I would return. JL looked fine and I knew a few other climbers had completed it but the direct looked impossible with sparse holds. A perfect combination.”
Chris Sharma had recent beta but in the most part Seb gathered it on his own in the Jumbo Love network that he was tying into, and his mind began to piece together an audacious plan.
“The Direct was on my mind. JL was the original plan and if I succeeded on Jumbo Love, I would just try the direct and see how far I could go and decide if I would return. JL looked fine and I knew a few other climbers had completed it but the direct looked impossible with sparse holds. A perfect combination.”
The team that helped make the "Supreme Jumbo Love" send happen. From left to right: BJ Tilden, Nate Rastnick, Seb Bouin, Randy Leavitt, Kathryn Rastnick (Nate's wife), and Dustin Rastnick. (Photo Credit: Clarisse Bompard, IG: @clarisse.bombard)
The stars were aligning. Randy shared with me how he had come to be there.
“I flew my Bonanza [aircraft] out for a day trip to Clark Mountain to meet my friend, Nate. The last time I was out there was when Sharma was trying the FA of Jumbo Love, so it was about time I visited again. Nate told me that Seb may or may not climb at Clark Mountain that day because he needed to take a rest day. Fortunately, Seb did climb.”
In October last year Seb sent Jumbo Love. Randy was around to see him begin to take the climb further via the direct variation, an even more direct line than Chris Sharma’s effort. Randy recalls that time.
“I belayed Seb on a day after he had already sent Jumbo Love, but before he sent Supreme Jumbo Love. When I belayed him, he was linking from the ground to the crux of the direct (a V12/13 boulder problem that links to Jumbo Love). He was repeatedly falling on the boulder problem (a dyno and match to a small, sloppy shelf), but managed to refine his beta.”
“I flew my Bonanza [aircraft] out for a day trip to Clark Mountain to meet my friend, Nate. The last time I was out there was when Sharma was trying the FA of Jumbo Love, so it was about time I visited again. Nate told me that Seb may or may not climb at Clark Mountain that day because he needed to take a rest day. Fortunately, Seb did climb.”
In October last year Seb sent Jumbo Love. Randy was around to see him begin to take the climb further via the direct variation, an even more direct line than Chris Sharma’s effort. Randy recalls that time.
“I belayed Seb on a day after he had already sent Jumbo Love, but before he sent Supreme Jumbo Love. When I belayed him, he was linking from the ground to the crux of the direct (a V12/13 boulder problem that links to Jumbo Love). He was repeatedly falling on the boulder problem (a dyno and match to a small, sloppy shelf), but managed to refine his beta.”
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Clarisse Bompard was commissioned for the shoot and watched Seb negotiate the difficulties at close range. She gave her insight on Seb’s working of Jumbo Love.
“I thought Seb would send it faster than he did as he negotiated the sections quickly. He did fall a few times, once at the top [a tricky slabby section]. The off-road approach and the hike were factored with his general tiredness, but he was resolute. Towards the end he was doubting that he could send Supreme Jumbo Love.” Saying that, Clarisse was confident he would do it. Seb found Jumbo Love to be a visionary line for its time, but he remained drawn to what preceded it. Chris Sharma was super excited about Seb focusing on the direct. Chris had completed JL and had had a slash at the diabolical direct. He knew that linking these would make the hardest route in the States even harder. Seb thought this would be a good extension of the story and was super happy he had the capacity to open a new chapter. Randy was equally excited and was sending stoke Seb’s way and Seb felt it. “Randy just likes creating and moving, finding new routes and fresh ideas to complete them. He really enjoys inspiring others in climbing's future.” This aspect of Seb is well known to those he climbs with. He has the ability to make others feel appreciated and listens to their stories and points of view. This in turn, provides Seb knowledge for sure, but it’s the wisdom he garners from the people he meets and the places he visits. A good man hears what others say but the great ones listen. “Randy, he shared lot’s about climbing but equally important for me, he also shared about the value of truly living.” |
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Randy had some kind words for Seb too, “Seb was a very upbeat and positive person to be around. He was the kind of personality that elevates the room, so we enjoyed each other's company.”
Seb spent ten days at Clark focusing on Jumbo Love and when that was in the bag he turned to the direct. On some evenings, to maintain hydration and conserve energy whilst working the route, they just sprawled out on the ledges below the climb making camp. Between hard sessions and while he had the opportunity, Seb made time to experience American culture and the lure of the desert landscape.
“Basically, we were in Vegas enjoying Red Rock Canyon, going on hikes, taking photographs, and enjoying the landscape. And the city of Vegas. I wanted to experience it, those lights, and the crazy people.”
He did mention that this did conflict with his stomach, “This is all a bit hard when you come from France. The food is not so fresh here, which did make hard climbing that bit harder to maintain peak performance. We found a great Thai place in Vegas that alleviated some of that burden.”
Seb spent ten days at Clark focusing on Jumbo Love and when that was in the bag he turned to the direct. On some evenings, to maintain hydration and conserve energy whilst working the route, they just sprawled out on the ledges below the climb making camp. Between hard sessions and while he had the opportunity, Seb made time to experience American culture and the lure of the desert landscape.
“Basically, we were in Vegas enjoying Red Rock Canyon, going on hikes, taking photographs, and enjoying the landscape. And the city of Vegas. I wanted to experience it, those lights, and the crazy people.”
He did mention that this did conflict with his stomach, “This is all a bit hard when you come from France. The food is not so fresh here, which did make hard climbing that bit harder to maintain peak performance. We found a great Thai place in Vegas that alleviated some of that burden.”
ABOVE: A series of moves, Seb Bouin on "Supreme Jumbo Love." Click on the photos to enlarge (Photo Credit: Clarisse Bompard, IG: @clarisse.bombard)
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Like any climber visiting a crag in a foreign place, it’s the local community that assists you get your bearings, from working out where to buy cheap gas, source quality food, and linking up with like-minded locals. Seb was stoked to befriend Clark Mountain devotees’ who provided everything he needed as well as assisting him with the climb. Seb wanted to acknowledge these friends.
“I had two locals, Nate and Dustin, who assisted with vibes and provided belays. Also, my travel companion, Clarisse, who kept it real and focused me throughout.”
His moment was about to arrive.
A pattern to complete the link up soon developed. Waking up early, then driving to site, walking to the crag, bouldering around the base of the project, then having a try. The extended climb is long, 76 meters (250 feet), and he had much to learn from the route. The walk in and bouldering near the base to warm up in the cool morning temperatures proved to be a good option. Each day his knowledge grew as did his confidence.
“The climbing itself required focus and I had one chance. I’m not a competitive climber but I am fortunate as I have unlimited time to climb. But this place was far from home, and I knew I couldn’t come back when I wanted so, to try the Direct, I would need to prepare and find the best day. In my climbing life I have learnt about pressure and the need for strategy, so to optimise the moment as best as possible.”
“I had two locals, Nate and Dustin, who assisted with vibes and provided belays. Also, my travel companion, Clarisse, who kept it real and focused me throughout.”
His moment was about to arrive.
A pattern to complete the link up soon developed. Waking up early, then driving to site, walking to the crag, bouldering around the base of the project, then having a try. The extended climb is long, 76 meters (250 feet), and he had much to learn from the route. The walk in and bouldering near the base to warm up in the cool morning temperatures proved to be a good option. Each day his knowledge grew as did his confidence.
“The climbing itself required focus and I had one chance. I’m not a competitive climber but I am fortunate as I have unlimited time to climb. But this place was far from home, and I knew I couldn’t come back when I wanted so, to try the Direct, I would need to prepare and find the best day. In my climbing life I have learnt about pressure and the need for strategy, so to optimise the moment as best as possible.”
On a cool Tuesday morning on the 1st of November 2022, he seized his moment, linking the direct and the established climb naming it, Supreme Jumbo Love and sealing the deal with a grade of 9b+ (38/5.15b) and claiming his place in American climbing history. His climbing resume and the volume of apex climbing he has sent in the last two years in particular, leaves his grading of the extended route undisputed (mostly). Some commentators have suggested his using knee pads may colour grey the achievement but to those that witnessed it – it meant little. The climb is simply too technical, too long, and too hard. A knee pad in a harsh rock landscape simply protects the skin, not enough to scrape an advantage.
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Randy recognises the significance of Seb’s achievement and saw in Seb the qualities of, not just a great climber but of a good man.
“I think Seb's ascent of Supreme Jumbo Love really helps American climbing. The tenacity it takes to make that rough drive, hike a long approach to a remote crag, then climb 5.15 really separates the merely talented from those that have both the talent, vision, and motivation. These types of climbers are rare. Seb's ascent will remind us of what it takes. He mentioned to me that there were some pretty lonely days at first when it was only he and Clarisse at that mountain cliff high above the desert. But he kept going out there because he knew it was one of the king lines in the world. Lines like this, and climbers like him, are rare.” Seb’s favourite memories of the climb were being alone with a small group of friends. He may seem impervious to what he achieved up there on the desert periphery, but it has become increasingly difficult for Seb to climb incognito and with each of these ground-breaking ascents his notoriety grows. The weeks spent meeting new friends, sharing with American climbing giants, listening to the morning breeze break the silence of a sleeping desert, yes, even walking amongst the lights of Vegas, refreshed his soul. Seb found his desert experience therapeutic and in return he has left American climbers a fresh benchmark to measure themselves and to dream the dreams of the desert fathers that have proceeded them. |
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“I would like to say thank you to America for welcoming me and the amazing support from everyone who gathered at Clark Mountain to see me send Supreme Jumbo Love. Being far from home I felt unbalanced in this new terrain and these people gave me a firm base to work from. I would like to thank you all for sharing this piece of rock with me and for the catches and for the beta. Through sharing the experience, we made history together. That was very satisfying, and the friendships made there will remain.”
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Seb also wanted to send an invite to local and international climbers.
“I encourage people to try the route. It would be disappointing if climbers were not attempting the send. There are so many strong climbers in America and throughout the World. So please try the route, just go for it, it is so cool, and you will have a great adventure."
His dip into the pool of American climbing has made him keen to dive in deeper.
“I would like to explore America especially Indian Creek and Yosemite. I know people who are establishing new routes and visionary projects. There are plenty of things yet to be accomplished.”
Seb subsequently returned to Europe and today he continues to push the envelope of possible. Supreme Jumbo Love was his love letter to America.
“I encourage people to try the route. It would be disappointing if climbers were not attempting the send. There are so many strong climbers in America and throughout the World. So please try the route, just go for it, it is so cool, and you will have a great adventure."
His dip into the pool of American climbing has made him keen to dive in deeper.
“I would like to explore America especially Indian Creek and Yosemite. I know people who are establishing new routes and visionary projects. There are plenty of things yet to be accomplished.”
Seb subsequently returned to Europe and today he continues to push the envelope of possible. Supreme Jumbo Love was his love letter to America.
Seb Bouin with Randy Leavitt. Randy put in an extensive effort to send "Jumbo Love" (5.15b/37) in the 1990’s. It was completed by Chris Sharma in 2008. The 2nd ascent was by Ethan Pringle in 2015. The 3rd ascent was by Jonathan Siegrist in 2018. Seb Bouin nabbed the line in October 2022 and then got hungry for the even more difficult direct start. (Photo Credit: Clarisse Bompard, IG: @clarisse.bombard)
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Seb Bouin at the chains after sending "Supreme Jumbo Love" (5.15c/38). (Photo Credit: Clarisse Bompard, IG: @clarisse.bombard)
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