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Climbing in the ​Upper Cumberland Valley, KY

An Interview with Joe Martin and Brice Burton

By Stefani Dawn
Today we are interviewing Joe Martin and Brice Burton, local Kentucky climbers and natural area conservationists. Brice started a 501c3 non-profit called the Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project whose goal is to “help remove/lower barriers for youth, youth service organizations, and families to experience the outdoors of Kentucky in a reproducible, sustainable, low impact way.”  We will learn more about the Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project, as well as some of the small, local crags in the Cumberland Valley of Kentucky.
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Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project

CC: In a previous conversation with me you mentioned that the Kentucky Outdoor Adventure project is “not climbing specific but rather wants to utilize every opportunity the public lands of Kentucky has to offer in the likes of backpacking, climbing, hiking, biking, paddling, camping, etc...” How are you going about doing this? That is a lot of different sports and sounds like a blast. Do you have volunteer guides?
 
BRICE: Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project (KOAP) works with the adult leaders of Kentucky based organizations (Scouts BSA troops, church youth groups, school clubs, other non-profits, etc..). Because our model engages local leaders, the whole community is given new opportunities for outdoor access rather than giving a group of youth a one-time experience of the outdoors. KOAP provides a host of experiential, skills-based trainings for teachers, leaders, and youth workers so they are empowered to take youth outdoors on their own. KOAP understands that these leaders already have the relationship equity built with their students, and by training them to be the qualified leader to lead the adventure, they can then speak into the lives of youth in a more impactful way.
 
Once the leaders are trained in the different activity sets, they then are allowed access to the Gear Library. Where they can check out the needed gear to successfully lead an adventure.

CC: When did the Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project begin and where did you get the idea?
 
BRICE: KOAP received its 501c3 non profit status at the end of 2019 and is still in its infancy. I got the idea for KOAP when I lived in Tacoma, WA. I was there for 7 years and was introduced to a gear library there that gave me the idea. But being from Kentucky and having a love for the area, I knew I wanted to move back and start KOAP so we could be an integral part of the education, growth, and sustainability of Kentucky's public lands.
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Brice Burton, founder of the Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project.
CC: Who are you reaching out to and how?
 
BRICE: KOAP is reaching out to any and all youth organizations that may want these types of services. Scouts BSA troops, Girl Scouts, church youth groups, school clubs, other non-profits like Big brothers Big sisters, and boys and girls clubs. KOAP’s goal is to start in our hometown of Somerset, KY, and expand from there.
 
We are using a host of different channels to reach out to potential users. But we are finding that there is actually a need for more organizations and clubs in the first place that do these types of activities. We are also trying to encourage teachers and youth workers within the schools that something like a hiking club could be a really cool idea and very obtainable with KOAP’s resources utilized. So there is some “which comes first, the chicken or the egg?” going on in some of our communities.
Another way we have brought awareness to KOAP as a whole in the past was through an adventure storytelling event called fireside chats. The goal of this event was to do nothing other than bringing awareness to KOAP whilst building the outdoor community as a whole. We have only had one of these events and it garnered a great response that far exceeded our expectations and we plan to host more events once pandemic limitations are lifted.
 
Please follow us on all the social channels!
 
Joe: I am helping KOAP reach out to climbers. I drive a truck, have for 21yrs, I find a place to climb while out on the road then I tell fellow climbers of the area and the non-profit. I also reach out through social media platforms.
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Joe Martin, a local climber who is helping support the Kentucky Outdoor Project. Climb: Blueberry Kush

​CC: We live in a nation of sue-itis, which unfortunately could be a deterrent to people like yourself wanting to share these wonderful (but somewhat risky) outdoor activities. How are you all managing things like liability?

 
BRICE: Admittedly, we are still in our infancy, so we are still working out some of the details for higher-risk activities like climbing, paddling, etc. which will include waivers mitigating certain risks that go along with outdoor activities.
 
KOAP is continuing their own education with courses like Wilderness first aid, AMGA’s Single Pitch Instructor course, etc. The experience from these types of continued education will help lower the cost of liability.
CC: You mentioned to me in a previous conversation that the Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project is an advocate for the protection of our public lands. Tell us more about this. Are there any specific areas you are targeting to be protected?
 
BRICE: KOAP is active in advocating for the continued development for recreational use and preservation from logging within the Daniel Boone National Forest. We understand that the Forest Service has to constantly justify funding and because of that we have seen the “if you don't use it, you are at risk of losing it” mentality at play. Which is precisely why we want to help bring awareness to the human powered outdoor recreational opportunities that lie within these hills.
 
KOAP tries to attend any and all public forums hosted by the Forest Service and utilize those events by speaking up on behalf of all the adventurers that recreate in these lands. We have seen the benefit that ecotourism can bring to an oppressed region and we want to see those benefits in even more towns across the state.
 
Joe: I encourage all people to get outdoors and be proactive . I am focused mainly on Daniel Boone National forest because it's home. Rockcastle river gorge area is especially home turf.
You mentioned that you want to lower the barriers of entry into the outdoors by providing a couple of things.
 
  1. Education and information to leaders of organizations that want to get their members into the outdoors. Really empowering them to lead successful adventures in our public lands.
  2. Access to the necessary outdoor gear via a gear library for said organizations to use in order to accomplish their adventures.
 
CC: Regarding the gear library, is there a specific location for the library? How can gear be accessed across the state? Is it gear for all of the sports you listed above – including climbing?

 
BRICE: KOAP is blessed to have access to plenty of great gear storage here in Somerset, KY. The Gear Library is available to organizations across the state and can be accessed by the organizations leaders before their adventures. KOAP also has services available to bring the gear to the organization if help is needed.
 
KOAP is continues to build the gear library as we can. We are initially focusing on the “low hanging branch” activities at the moment like hiking, backpacking, and camping. We hope to include the other more adventurous activities at a later date. For paddling, we are working on partnering with local canoe, kayak, and SUP rental businesses and just subsidizing those rentals for our organizations. Doing this ensures that KOAP helps sustain the ecotourism industry in this region and throughout the state that Kentucky desperately relies on.
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Joe Martin on Blueberry Kush
 
JOE: I thought the concept of KOAP was just amazing. We have such a precious resource here in our part of Daniel Boone National Forest . The idea of lowering the barrier of entry is a great way to motivate people to get outdoors. The non-profit does not only does that but also educates people properly. Individuals and groups that have never really been involved in outdoor recreation get introduced to things like Leave No Trace, conservation, and endurance. I know that the more people are utilizing these areas, the larger our voice will be in protecting and preserving it for future generations. I believe this non-profit has the makings of a great springboard for tourism and economic and environmental sustainability for our area. ​

Climbing in The Cumberland Valley and Cumberland Plateau in Kentucky

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​Kentucky is best known for the Red River Gorge with over 2,000 routes on bomber sandstone. But like many regions, there’s more than what’s popular. There are the smaller crags, the ones the locals go to, and the one’s that might attract people who want something a little different or a little less busy. Here Joe and Brice fill us in on some local Kentucky action.

 
CC: Tell us a little more about the Cumberland Valley and the Cumberland Plateau. Is the sandstone similar to the bomber rock of the Red River Gorge?

 
BRICE: The rock is very similar and is still the Corbin sandstone of “The Red” but maybe just a little less dense and a bit more varied in quality.
 
JOE: It is very similar.We certainly don't have as much overhanging bomber routes as the Red. It's also spread out a bit more in this area but we have some very classic Kentucky climbing. Two climbs that stand out immediately in my mind are: Suicide on the Second Hand Smoke wall, which is a nice 50 foot 5.8; And, Mind Funk on the Mind Funk wall which is similar to what you have in the Red. Mind Funk is a legit 5.10. One thing we don't have is the congestion of places like the Red River Gorge, which makes it nice.

BRICE: What one might not realize is the opportunity for amazing bouldering in the Cumberland area. Places like Foxtown are currently being developed within the Daniel Boone National Forest and definitely need to be checked out.

​CC: What are the similarities or differences between the Valley and the Plateau?
 
BRICE: Honestly, there really isn't much of a difference, if any at all and maybe more semantics more than anything. The Cumberland Plateau is the name of the area of hills, gorges, and hollers that lie west of the Appalachian mountains where all the drainage flows to the Cumberland River.
 
Sure there is some local relief but one good look at the horizon you can tell that all the ridge tops and peaks are around the same narrow range of elevation, just remnants of the top of the plateau. The hollers are where the plateau has eroded away exposing the awesome Corbin Sandstone we love to climb.

CC: Tell us more about your connection to these crags.
 
BRICE: For our climbing area, we are both super stoked about all the areas/potential areas within the Cumberland Valley and encompassing Cumberland Plateau. Places like The Big South Fork and other areas of the Daniel Boone National Forest.
 
I  was around our climbing area (The Rockcastle River Gorge) 15 years ago during a lot of the initial development. I was able to be mentored and taught by some really burly climbers on development ethics and etiquette, as well as climbing, but most of those folks are no longer active in the area. That being said, I consumed a lot of climbing and took advantage of their hard work and didn’t really give back in any big ways other than a few routes that I helped put up or re-bolt. 
Picture
Joe Martin.
I moved away for 7 years to Washington state and just recently moved back. When I moved back it was natural to head out to the old stomping grounds. Immediately I knew I had taken enough from the area and it was time to give back.  I was pleased to find a couple of groups out there enjoying some of the classic routes. It was clear that helping develop a community around this area and bring awareness of these crags would be one of the ways I could give back. 

JOE: My connection to this area really isn't that long. I moved here about 4 years ago. Until that time I only knew about climbing the Red River Gorge.I immediately saw the potential here in the Cumberland area. Then I met Brice and others at the local climbing gym "CLYM." I started getting beta on these routes and from then on its it's just been a total blast!!
CC: You two are friends and have similar goals. Fill us in.
 
JOE: Well Brice and myself came up under old school mentors. They taught us valuable lessons on everything from ethics, conservation, safety, and gear placement. We have taken those lessons and used them to enjoy many years of climbing. I think one of the major things we hit it off on so quick was the conviction we shared to give back. After so many years of climbing there comes a point when it's it's time to make a contribution. So now it's time to pass these things down to the next generation and do as those before us.
 
BRICE: Joe and I met earlier this year and started climbing together and hit it off pretty quick and easily. We are known as the “safe old guys” around the community for sure. I wouldn’t say we are the authority for the area by all means, but like the non-profit, we like the idea of helping educate, empower, and encourage those in our community that are inspired and motived to continue development. We want to pass down the area’s ethics and etiquettes to the younger, stronger, super motivated generation. We don’t want to be the ethics police but we believe in trying to preserve the ethos that was present when the first developers started bolting in the area.

Ultimately, Joe and I are trying to bring awareness to this area of sandstone to: 
  1. Help draw folks away from the Red River Gorge and hopefully spread out some of the crowding that it sees.
  2. Promote ecotourism in our city which is classified as oppressed like a lot of other Appalachian communities.
  3. We both have families with kids around the same age, demanding jobs, and the desire to keep climbing. So it just works for both of us to climb on the weekends as much as we can while trying to balance the rest of life.  
CC: Tell us about you as a climber. What’s your favorite style of climbing? How long have you been climbing?
​
 
BRICE: I started climbing around 15 years ago right here in the Rockcastle River Gorge, but it was limited to mainly single pitch sport routes and bouldering. As I grew as a climber, trips to the New, Obed, and North Carolina crags became a regular occurrence. I moved to Washington state in 2012 and immediately fell in love with the alpine. Multiple assents of the Cascades volcanos like Rainier, Adams, and Hood took precedent, however, I made sure to get to classic rock climbing places like Index, Washington Pass, Frenchman's Coulee, and Leavenworth to get back on rock. Being out west also gave me opportunities to visit Smith Rock and Red Rock Canyon a bit more regularly. Wanting to start KOAP, the sandstone of Kentucky, and now having a kid called me back to my hometown of Somerset to be with my family and continue climbing here in KY.
 
I really enjoy all the disciplines of climbing though and I'm not great at any of them. Its always been my goal to be an all-around type of climber. My favorite style has gone from the steep overhanging pocketed faces to more mellow, more technical routes.

​
JOE: Ive been climbing since I was 6 years old. My dad mentored me on climbing, skiing, and just about all things outdoors. There was a very large gap in my life when I didn't climb. Even then I was always looking at what would make a good line. My favorite style I would have to say is sport climbing. To this day I still have not ice climbed, so who knows? Could it be my next favorite? I doubt it but you never know.

​​I love the work, the care, the art that is put into bolting a classic route. I just think it's a thing of beauty. The camaraderie of friends getting together and tying in...makes an awesome day. Brice and I definitely hit it off on feeling the need to give back after so many years of enjoying the sport. We have very similar climbing styles and backgrounds. It was just that kinda thing that's rare. You know you didn't just find a climbing partner but a friend. We still have lofty goals as far as climbing for sure. I think now with us both having kids and being a bit older though we see the need to pass things down in a meaningful way.

Picture
Brice Burton.on Blueberry Kush
CC: How can people find out about these climbing areas you mentioned? Are there guidebooks? Is it on Mountain Project?
 
BRICE: There is a small PDF guidebook (link provided below) that is circulated around the community but its becoming a bit dated which has led us to start putting routes on Mountain Project. They are slowly appearing on Mountain Project as we have time to get good images and route descriptions.
CC: How are trails and crag maintenance (things like cliff base stabilization, erosion, plant life) being managed at these smaller crags? Especially if use of them increases?
 
Joe: As of now we are in good shape. Using local volunteers, we try to keep the trails clean and visible to keep from having a spider web of trails. We haven't had a huge issue with trash but we keep it picked up. We haven't seen so much activity that we really have a problem with cliff bases being beaten down, or erosion yet but hopefully with the help of Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project we can continue to reach out and build relationships to make sure we keep a solid infrastructure .
Picture
Brice Burton on Blue Berry Kush.

​CC: What is happening with the development in these areas of the Cumberland Valley and Plateau? Is there an organization coordinating efforts? Is there communication with the public land agents? And how about the locals?

 
BRICE: As of right now, there is no formal organization coordinating efforts. Which is exactly why passing down the knowledge, ethics, and etiquette is so important to us. The land management entities know we are out there and we want to work with them as closely as possible to ensure that access remains. Unfortunately the pandemic has halted much of the conversation at the moment. There are some locals that don’t want the attention of the area, which we totally understand, BUT we also see the many upsides to sharing this special area with more folks.
CC: If someone from outside of the area comes to visit one of these crags. What would you like them to know?
 
BRICE: Car camping near most of the crags is essentially non-existent so be prepared to camp up to a half-hour away. Reach out to our Facebook group (Rockcastle River Climbing) or message us on Mountain Project and let us know you are coming so we can share updated beta. We would love to meet and share a pint or two with you!
 
JOE: Treat it as if it were your very own. Practice good ethics. Keep it clean. Keep it safe. Climb hard and have fun!
CC: Any last words for our readers?
 
BRICE: Come visit and engage with us! The more visitors we have that engage, the better we can measure the metrics to ensure the Rockcastle River Gorge is here to stay.

Resources for Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley


Pine Creek - 22 climbs, mostly sport, 5.6 to 5.13
Angel Creek Area -11 climbs, sport, toprope, 5.8 to 5.11-
Rockcastle River Gorge - 54 climbs, sport, trad, toprope, 5.7 to 5.12
Bolthouse Ridge Road - 55 climbs, sport, trad, 5.6 to 5.12
Lick Creek Road - This has several multi-pitch climbs, 26 climbs, sport, trad, 5.5 - 5.11-


​ROCK CASTLE RIVER CLIMBING: 
Mountain Project

 Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Project 
CONTACT: ​www.kentuckyoap.org/contact

SOCIAL MEDIA:
FACEBOOK for Brice Burton: https://www.facebook.com/briceburtonimag
FACEBOOK for the Kentucky Outdoor Project:  https://www.facebook.com/KentuckyOAP/
INSTAGRAM for Brice Burton: https://www.instagram.com/briceburton/
INSTAGRAM for the Kentucky Outdoor Project:  https://www.instagram.com/kentucky_oap/

And one of the local Facebook groups:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/528290391084546/

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          • Seneca Rocks
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          • Ten Sleep
  • Photographers & Artists
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