This is an interview with Common Climber Featured Photographer Joel Wilson. The photos in this feature highlight climbing in Tasmania, Australia. Joel also shares an engaging description of how he captured this beautiful sunset cover photo of the climb Primavera (23/5.11b) located at The Aviary in Tasmania. At the end, we also include a few questions and responses by Mitch Smith, the climber featured in the cover photo.
Andrew Martin on "Master of Puppets" located at Bare Rock at Fingal in Tasmania. Photo Credit: Joel Wilson
Interview of Featured Photographer Joel Wilson
Do you live in Tasmania or the mainland of Australia and where? Is this where you grew up?
This is a question I have been asked frequently over the years, and I still do not know how to answer it exactly, as I have not had a permanent address for most of my adult life. I guess, in my heart, the place I consider my home is in the Wimmera, Victoria. I was extremely lucky that as a child of around 10, my father moved our family to a small town named Dimboola, which is located about 45 minutes from Mount Arapiles, as he was an avid a rock climber as well. We lived there for maybe four years, climbing every chance we had, and I fell in love with it. After that, we moved to Melbourne, so that my sisters and I had more opportunities. Over the years though, I have continuously found myself moving back to the Wimmera.
Since around 2014, I have been living a rather nomadic lifestyle, living in converted vans within Canada and Australia, hasing good weather and adventures along the way, with a few stints of living in cities to save cash. Over the past year, I have been living in my ford transit that I converted into a very comfortable house on wheels with my girlfriend Riahna. We have been traveling up and down the east coast of Australia rock climbing, surfing and taking photographs. As of April, though, we are going to set up in a permanent base somewhere in the Blue Mountains, NSW.
This is a question I have been asked frequently over the years, and I still do not know how to answer it exactly, as I have not had a permanent address for most of my adult life. I guess, in my heart, the place I consider my home is in the Wimmera, Victoria. I was extremely lucky that as a child of around 10, my father moved our family to a small town named Dimboola, which is located about 45 minutes from Mount Arapiles, as he was an avid a rock climber as well. We lived there for maybe four years, climbing every chance we had, and I fell in love with it. After that, we moved to Melbourne, so that my sisters and I had more opportunities. Over the years though, I have continuously found myself moving back to the Wimmera.
Since around 2014, I have been living a rather nomadic lifestyle, living in converted vans within Canada and Australia, hasing good weather and adventures along the way, with a few stints of living in cities to save cash. Over the past year, I have been living in my ford transit that I converted into a very comfortable house on wheels with my girlfriend Riahna. We have been traveling up and down the east coast of Australia rock climbing, surfing and taking photographs. As of April, though, we are going to set up in a permanent base somewhere in the Blue Mountains, NSW.
Riahna Wilson (IG: @R.leah__) on "Peer Review" at The Aviary on Bruny Island, Tasmania, Australia. Photo Credit: Joel Wilson
How did you get into photography and how long have you been doing it?
I have always had a passion of photography, especially climbing photography. I remember being fascinated by all the images in rock climbing magazines and some of the classic Simon Carter posters as a child. In year 8 of my schooling, I lucked out and had a fantastic photography teacher, it is because of him I continued to do photography the whole way through high school and I learnt a lot of the techniques I use in my photography now.
However, since I left school, I have been dabbling in photography but never really taking it all that serious, as I was more driven to push my own climbing. A year ago when my partner and I moved back into the van to climb full time, I decided to take my photography more seriously and have dedicated a big part of my trip to it.
I have always had a passion of photography, especially climbing photography. I remember being fascinated by all the images in rock climbing magazines and some of the classic Simon Carter posters as a child. In year 8 of my schooling, I lucked out and had a fantastic photography teacher, it is because of him I continued to do photography the whole way through high school and I learnt a lot of the techniques I use in my photography now.
However, since I left school, I have been dabbling in photography but never really taking it all that serious, as I was more driven to push my own climbing. A year ago when my partner and I moved back into the van to climb full time, I decided to take my photography more seriously and have dedicated a big part of my trip to it.
What do you do to pay the bills?
For the past couple of years, I have been doing rope access work. I love it, I get to spend most of my time hanging from exposed structures, doing all types of interesting work. Prior to that, I was a rock climbing guide in the Grampians.
For the past couple of years, I have been doing rope access work. I love it, I get to spend most of my time hanging from exposed structures, doing all types of interesting work. Prior to that, I was a rock climbing guide in the Grampians.
Do you feel you have a photographic style for rock climbing photos? How do you approach it?
I feel as though I do have a style, I always aim to capture the bigger picture. Due to this, I find myself trying to photograph not only the climber, but the belayer and the overall exposure of the route as well. I strive to achieve this by setting up in exposed positions, which I enjoy as I get to utilize my experience of rigging from my professional life.
I feel as though I do have a style, I always aim to capture the bigger picture. Due to this, I find myself trying to photograph not only the climber, but the belayer and the overall exposure of the route as well. I strive to achieve this by setting up in exposed positions, which I enjoy as I get to utilize my experience of rigging from my professional life.
Matia Fornari (IG: fornarimattia) on "Green Spandex" at Bare Rock at Fingal in Tasmania. Photo Credit: Joel Wilson.
Do you have any goals for your photography and climbing?
I have been working tirelessly over the past year to build a name for myself with the photography community, to gain enough exposure to become a somewhat professional climbing photographer, all with the aim to have my own small photography business. I also dream of one day doing assignments on expeditions style trips in wild locations, like some of the role models I gain inspiration from like Jimmy Chin, Drew Marshall, etc.
In my own climbing life, I have some pretty big goals. I would like to continue to climb in a close to full-time capacity for as long as possible and see how far I can push my grade. I would also love to continue to put up first ascents, not only within Australia, but abroad as well. With that in mind, I have some very exciting trips I'm planning to places like Mongolia and Tonga (A place I have previously done development trips to with some of Australia’s climbing Pioneers like Glenn Tempest and Geoff Little). We will just have to wait and see when we are able to travel abroad again before they can happen.
I have been working tirelessly over the past year to build a name for myself with the photography community, to gain enough exposure to become a somewhat professional climbing photographer, all with the aim to have my own small photography business. I also dream of one day doing assignments on expeditions style trips in wild locations, like some of the role models I gain inspiration from like Jimmy Chin, Drew Marshall, etc.
In my own climbing life, I have some pretty big goals. I would like to continue to climb in a close to full-time capacity for as long as possible and see how far I can push my grade. I would also love to continue to put up first ascents, not only within Australia, but abroad as well. With that in mind, I have some very exciting trips I'm planning to places like Mongolia and Tonga (A place I have previously done development trips to with some of Australia’s climbing Pioneers like Glenn Tempest and Geoff Little). We will just have to wait and see when we are able to travel abroad again before they can happen.
Capturing the scene at the base. Photo Credit: Joel Wilson.
Primavera (23/5.11b)
Primavera is a classic climb located at The Aviary in Tasmania. When photographer Joel Wilson and his mate Mitch Smith decided to head to "Tassie" to climb, this was on the bucket list to both climb and photograph. Joel and Mitch share their experience and some of the back story with us.
Primavera being lead by Mitch Smith. Photo Credit: Joel Wilson
Primavera (23/5.11b), The Aviary, Tasmania, Australia
(The day in Joel's words)
In the lead up to this photograph, I really took my time and considered all the elements that I was aiming to achieve. This was going to be the centre piece of the feature and I really wanted to nail it. High exposure, a full panoramic view of the Tasman ocean and southern tip of Tasmania, capturing the pristine technicality of the route and of course a cracker of a sunset. I set the bar very high and put a lot of pressure on myself to achieve all these elements - and then some.
In the days leading up to the image I did a lot of preparation. I hiked out to inspect different angles and to do a gear drop, as I knew from previous shoots, the hike was quite the slog - over an hour of hiking a steep, continuous hill.
On the day of the shoot we all hiked up around midday, it was going to be a big day. The sun was going to be setting around 8:43 p.m., so the plan was to hang out at the crag and just take it all in. The views were incredible, and the weather was superb. We didn’t consider the fact that it was a bluebird day - hot and no shade. I was constantly agonising about the fact that we didn’t have enough water to hang out all day in the blistering Tasmanian sunshine. I was concerned the day was going to turn into to a flop. To keep myself from over-thinking the shoot, I decided to climb the route in the heat. It was incredible, better than I could imagine, even with the blistering sun and my sweaty palms.
At about 4 p.m., we finally got a reprieve. It become overcast and much more bearable. However, it was a double-edged sword. Although it was cooler due to the overcast sky, the sunset photograph I was hoping for seemed in jeopardy. I stayed as positive as possible that the image was still going to work.
At around 7 p.m., I decided to ascend the fixed lines, in preparation to capture the photograph I had envisioned and put a lot of time and effort to attain.
The light was good, although it was still very cloudy. Although the conditions were not perfect, I was still so psyched to be up there. What a place to be hanging out, the views are out of this world.
At around 8 p.m. Mitch tied in and started to climb this all-star route. It was incredible to watch, especially from the exposed viewing position I had. Mitch climbed it with so much grace and style. As he approached the sequence I wanted to photograph, the sun beamed out from a gap in the clouds, at that point I realised it was perfect. As he hit the double side pull to get set up for the dead point, I began to shoot. The sun was shining and it was in the exact position I had dreamed of - super exciting.
After the shoot the pack-up seemed easy. All the agonising I went through in the lead up to the photograph, all the hard work and planning, seemed completely worth it. As we walked down in the dark, the stoke was high. We had all achieved everything that we set out for, and those are the types of moments you have to really recognize and celebrate. Although Mitch didn’t get the send he wanted (he fell on the final moves), he was still glowing from climbing the 3-star classic. I was unbelievably thrilled with the image I captured, even though I hadn’t even looked at it yet on my laptop.
Are you and Mitch friends? If so how did you meet? Tell me a little about your relationship with him. How did he get to be the climber in the Primavera photo?
Mitch and I met last year in Nowra. He was still living in the Northern Beaches at the time and was a part time van lifer. After a while, the fomo was to high for him and he decided to move into his van full time and join our crew. Since then, we have all been travelling together, convoying up to the Blue Mountains and then down to Tassie. I chose him to be the climber for the Primavera shoot, as we had discussed the route previously and he was psyched.
Mitch and I met last year in Nowra. He was still living in the Northern Beaches at the time and was a part time van lifer. After a while, the fomo was to high for him and he decided to move into his van full time and join our crew. Since then, we have all been travelling together, convoying up to the Blue Mountains and then down to Tassie. I chose him to be the climber for the Primavera shoot, as we had discussed the route previously and he was psyched.
What was your experience on Primavera and did it live up to expectations?
MITCH: I found the climb very engaging and thought provoking. I enjoyed the movement and flow the whole way. I was actually so engaged in the climb that it was only once I got to the anchor that I had an opportunity to look down and take in the exposure of the ocean beneath. It definitely lived up to my expectations and is a contender for the best pitch I climbed at Bruny.
JOEL: I also climbed Primavera, mainly to set up my fixed lines but with the bonus of it being a must do classic that Ben Maddison himself (The first ascensionist) had recommended. It was fantastic, a very thought provoking and technical endurance route with spectacular views. I loved it!
MITCH: I found the climb very engaging and thought provoking. I enjoyed the movement and flow the whole way. I was actually so engaged in the climb that it was only once I got to the anchor that I had an opportunity to look down and take in the exposure of the ocean beneath. It definitely lived up to my expectations and is a contender for the best pitch I climbed at Bruny.
JOEL: I also climbed Primavera, mainly to set up my fixed lines but with the bonus of it being a must do classic that Ben Maddison himself (The first ascensionist) had recommended. It was fantastic, a very thought provoking and technical endurance route with spectacular views. I loved it!
BRUNY
Bruny is an island located off the southeast coast of Tasmania. It has long stretches of rugged, rocky coastline flanked by the rough and beautiful Tasman sea. The Crag shows 143 climbs in Bruny, some sport, but mostly trad. Bruny is accessed from Hobart via ferry. Below are some photos and Mitch and Joel's thoughts on this unique area.
The walk-in to "Primavera", Bruny Island, Tasmania, Australia. Photo Credit: Joel Wilson.
What was it about Bruny that you loved most?
JOEL:I did a short trip there a few weeks prior to taking the Primavera photo to celebrate New Year's with friends and climb. However, before that trip, I had never heard of the place. I think for me, the place was incredible due to the location of the of the Cloudy Bay Campground. I enjoyed it so much due to being able to drive across the spectacular beach (something I never thought I would do in my Ford Transit), great surfing, and climbing within walking distance. It has it all! Bruny is must visit location whilst in Tassie!
MITCH: What a destination! I agree, being able to drive across a beach to a campground within walking access to the cliffs - there just aren’t many places that you can do that!
JOEL:I did a short trip there a few weeks prior to taking the Primavera photo to celebrate New Year's with friends and climb. However, before that trip, I had never heard of the place. I think for me, the place was incredible due to the location of the of the Cloudy Bay Campground. I enjoyed it so much due to being able to drive across the spectacular beach (something I never thought I would do in my Ford Transit), great surfing, and climbing within walking distance. It has it all! Bruny is must visit location whilst in Tassie!
MITCH: What a destination! I agree, being able to drive across a beach to a campground within walking access to the cliffs - there just aren’t many places that you can do that!
Pete Choate on "The Noise Of Time" at The Hidden Zorn on Bruny Island, Tasmania. Photo Credit: Joel Wilson
Why is Tasmania a destination worth traveling to in your opinion?
JOEL: I had heard for many years how good Tassie was, so I was incredibly excited to make the pilgrimage down south to spend a few months here. From the pristine beaches of the east coast (I also love to surf), to the steep endurance sport climbing areas like Paradisio and Bare Rock, to the splitter cracks of Ben Lomond and the rugged mountains ranges like Frenchman's Cap, Tassie has it all - and, these are just a few of the highlights. I could quite easily see myself living here. In terms of the photography side, it's the dream with wild locations and spectacular views. It's almost impossible to take a bad photograph here.
MITCH: Tasmania is without a doubt the adventure capital of Australia! An abundance of wild places to explore.
JOEL: I had heard for many years how good Tassie was, so I was incredibly excited to make the pilgrimage down south to spend a few months here. From the pristine beaches of the east coast (I also love to surf), to the steep endurance sport climbing areas like Paradisio and Bare Rock, to the splitter cracks of Ben Lomond and the rugged mountains ranges like Frenchman's Cap, Tassie has it all - and, these are just a few of the highlights. I could quite easily see myself living here. In terms of the photography side, it's the dream with wild locations and spectacular views. It's almost impossible to take a bad photograph here.
MITCH: Tasmania is without a doubt the adventure capital of Australia! An abundance of wild places to explore.
Zalika Rizmal (IG: @Zalika_) on "Trunk Music" at Elephant Hide Wall on Bruny Island, Tasmania. Photo Credit: Joel Wilson
At what point did climbing stop being just a hobby and became a lifestyle for you guys and why?
JOEL: Climbing has always been more of a life style than a hobby for me. I was incredibly lucky to be introduced to climbing at such a young age (doing my first trip to Arapiles at the age of around 3 or 4) which is very rare in the Australian climbing scene. Climbing has been ingrained in my life for so long that I would be completely lost without it. Now, its less about the climbing and more about the community within the climbing scene I love. Getting to connect with bunch of like-minded, thoughtful, and beautiful souls on a daily basis in these beautiful natural environments is something that I hold very close to my heart. Don't get me wrong though, I really do love fondling unique rocks as well!
MITCH: Although I entered the world of climbing 3.5 years ago, I knew early on that climbing was going to be much more than a hobby. I was inspired whilst traveling through North America seeing climbers ascend the faces of mountains I was hiking. Once I began climbing, I become addicted to the adventure. For me there is no better way to spend your time than exploring the mountains with like-minded people.
JOEL: Climbing has always been more of a life style than a hobby for me. I was incredibly lucky to be introduced to climbing at such a young age (doing my first trip to Arapiles at the age of around 3 or 4) which is very rare in the Australian climbing scene. Climbing has been ingrained in my life for so long that I would be completely lost without it. Now, its less about the climbing and more about the community within the climbing scene I love. Getting to connect with bunch of like-minded, thoughtful, and beautiful souls on a daily basis in these beautiful natural environments is something that I hold very close to my heart. Don't get me wrong though, I really do love fondling unique rocks as well!
MITCH: Although I entered the world of climbing 3.5 years ago, I knew early on that climbing was going to be much more than a hobby. I was inspired whilst traveling through North America seeing climbers ascend the faces of mountains I was hiking. Once I began climbing, I become addicted to the adventure. For me there is no better way to spend your time than exploring the mountains with like-minded people.
Any last thoughts for our readers?
JOEL: When you are climbing outdoors, be safe, be respectful, and have fun. We all go into these extremely fragile environments and in larger numbers than ever. So please remember to always take your rubbish, stay on tracks (trails), and brush off those tick marks/excessive chalk.
MITCH: Maybe just sharing a little tip. Newer climbers talk a lot about fears when climbing. I find the best way to overcome onsight jitters is through distraction. If I think too much about the moves I tend to get nervous, but if I crack a few jokes with mates and chat some non-climbing related topics beforehand it helps to clear my mind. Once I start climbing I stay calm by focusing on deep breathing.
JOEL: When you are climbing outdoors, be safe, be respectful, and have fun. We all go into these extremely fragile environments and in larger numbers than ever. So please remember to always take your rubbish, stay on tracks (trails), and brush off those tick marks/excessive chalk.
MITCH: Maybe just sharing a little tip. Newer climbers talk a lot about fears when climbing. I find the best way to overcome onsight jitters is through distraction. If I think too much about the moves I tend to get nervous, but if I crack a few jokes with mates and chat some non-climbing related topics beforehand it helps to clear my mind. Once I start climbing I stay calm by focusing on deep breathing.
James "Jimmy" Dettman (IG: @jimmydettmann) on "White Noise" at the Maelstrom wall on Bruny Island, Tasmania. Photo Credit: Joel Wilson
CONTACT JOEL WILSON:
WEBSITE: https://www.chimpolifephotography.com/
INSTAGRAM: @j0el.w
FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/joel.wilson.18659/
WEBSITE: https://www.chimpolifephotography.com/
INSTAGRAM: @j0el.w
FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/joel.wilson.18659/