Charlie S. is a climber, photographer, and engineer based out of Las Vegas, Nevada by way of Ogden, Utah and Upstate New York. Charlie shares his photographic and climbing story with Common Climber.
INSTAGRAM: @cabinfeverfighter
INSTAGRAM: @cabinfeverfighter
Meg White (IG: @megatron0313) on "Keep Your Powder Dry" (5.12b/27), Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. (Photo credit: Charlie S. @cabinfeverfighter)
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Charlie, thank you for sharing your photos and story with Common Climber. Let's get the basics first: When did you start climbing and when did you start photography?
Pictures have been a bit of a journey. It started with flip phone photos to show my parents where I had hiked in the Adirondacks. I eventually got a pocket-sized Canon point-and-shoot and that lasted me from 2008-2015. It was a nice camera that easily hung on a harness and the photos taken were photos of opportunity and convenience.
Eventually I discovered how fun it was, and purchased a refurbished Sony NEX-3N on E-bay, the precursor to the Alpha series. The compact lens of the NEX also allowed it to be hung off of a harness, albeit with a larger case. I started to take photos of my friends while I was on rappel.
Finally, on one trip to Indian Creek, I figured out how to ascend a rope with a prusik and GriGri. I also figured out that technique was miserable! So, I bought an ascender and was gifted a static rope that Christmas. That was the beginning of trying to get cool photos. In 2019 I upgraded to a refurbished Sony Alpha 6000 which is what I’m shooting on now.
I now actively try to get the “right” shot and have been expanding into some video stuff, but that’s still a work in progress.
Eventually I discovered how fun it was, and purchased a refurbished Sony NEX-3N on E-bay, the precursor to the Alpha series. The compact lens of the NEX also allowed it to be hung off of a harness, albeit with a larger case. I started to take photos of my friends while I was on rappel.
Finally, on one trip to Indian Creek, I figured out how to ascend a rope with a prusik and GriGri. I also figured out that technique was miserable! So, I bought an ascender and was gifted a static rope that Christmas. That was the beginning of trying to get cool photos. In 2019 I upgraded to a refurbished Sony Alpha 6000 which is what I’m shooting on now.
I now actively try to get the “right” shot and have been expanding into some video stuff, but that’s still a work in progress.
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How did climbing enter your life?
I tore my ACL when I was 16 when a trampoline split underneath me. During the recovery, I was BORED. The local homeschool group had a rock climbing team that competed with other schools. I volunteered to belay, and then got suckered into the sport.
You are a strong climber in both sport and trad (including crack climbing), do you have a favorite style and why?
Granite cracks! But I probably pull hardest when clipping bolts. I love my trips to Indian Creek, Utah. A good year has 2-3 trips to the Creek.
As for outdoor bouldering…I’d rather go trail running. I can’t explain it. Where is your favorite place to climb and why?
Indian Creek. I love the whole experience. The climbing, the setting, the camping, the friends.
Do you have a favorite place to photograph climbing? Why or why not?
Not particularly. Some areas are easier than others to get set up. It’s best to have a route close by so you can get close pictures without getting in the climber’s way. It’s also important to not block anyone else who’s at the crag that day. Sometimes my camera gear just stays packed.
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Jordanna Weimer on "THE Supercrack of the Desert" (AKA "Supercrack", 5.10/18), Indian Creek, Utah. (Photo credit: Charlie S. @cabinfeverfighter)
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Do you have an approach to climbing photography? How has it changed over the years?
I’ve been trying to work with the “scene.” When I started, the shots were often zoomed out, wide open, a climber-speck-in-a-sea-of-rock. I wanted to see the route. But that gets boring fast, especially on sport routes with small holds. You can’t see the details zoomed out and it’s a humanoid on a chalkboard.
Then I started doing more close-ups. The facial expressions, the nuance of the holds, body position, moments of relaxation and exertion. But too close and you lose the detail of: where was the climber? Where are they going?
The best shots (in my opinion) show the climber in the moment, give a perspective of height and location in a route, and what they have coming up. This is really easy with crack climbs. However, holds hide on sport climbs.
Then I started doing more close-ups. The facial expressions, the nuance of the holds, body position, moments of relaxation and exertion. But too close and you lose the detail of: where was the climber? Where are they going?
The best shots (in my opinion) show the climber in the moment, give a perspective of height and location in a route, and what they have coming up. This is really easy with crack climbs. However, holds hide on sport climbs.
Connie Shang (IG: @conniesaurus.rex) on "Youarewhatyouis" (5.12c/d/28), Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. (Photo credit: Charlie S. @cabinfeverfighter)
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Have you experimented with different photographic equipment? If so, what and do you have any favorites?
Just lenses. I had a “pancake” lens 15-55mm. Good for landscape or if you’re close to the climber. Often it was too zoomed out. Then I got a 70-210mm which was great for scouting routes or if I was far away from a subject. At 70mm, it was too magnified for most photos when I was hanging nearby.
I finally upgraded to an 18-105mm, which has been the sweet spot for climbing photos. The lens is a little bigger and I won’t take it on multi-pitch (I go back to the 15-55mm pancake lens for those outings), but it takes fantastic photos for my other outings.
It can become a very expensive hobby very quickly. Photography isn’t paying any bills, so, I’m hesitant to spend too much on other equipment. Although a Bosun’s chair was a recent acquisition and it has saved my legs on long hanging belays!
I finally upgraded to an 18-105mm, which has been the sweet spot for climbing photos. The lens is a little bigger and I won’t take it on multi-pitch (I go back to the 15-55mm pancake lens for those outings), but it takes fantastic photos for my other outings.
It can become a very expensive hobby very quickly. Photography isn’t paying any bills, so, I’m hesitant to spend too much on other equipment. Although a Bosun’s chair was a recent acquisition and it has saved my legs on long hanging belays!
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What is one photographic technique you discovered that surprised you?
Shutter speed is very important for fast movement. This becomes more challenging in low-light conditions. If I let the camera choose the shutter speed, feet and hands are often blurry. So, I’d chalk this up to a technique I need to refine.
Where do you see yourself in your climbing journey? What are your goals?
The goals keep evolving. I thought I’d be happy with 13a (and I am), and then 13b (and I am), but in the back of my mind I know I can try harder. I’m 35 now and need multiple recovery days, but the progress, training, and goal setting hasn’t stopped.
Climbing is an extremely fun hobby (some would call it a way of life). It gives me a reason to train and stay healthy. I like to do it a lot. But, there’s more to life than climbing. I’ve tried to expand my horizons outside of climbing (particularly when injured). It’s good to have more range in your life. I have some other goals. I’d like to bench 315 lbs. I’ve been having a ton of fun with a local community jazz band. Maybe I can make my Tacoma last to 500,000 miles? I’m pursuing a Masters in engineering and the end is finally in sight. |
Jordan Dawson (IG: @jordanclimbsstuff) on "Bastille Day" (5.12b/27), Blue Diamond Cave, Nevada. (Photo credit: Charlie S. @cabinfeverfighter)
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You keep detailed track of all the climbing you do in a given year and put it on a spreadsheet (engineer!) what is your purpose for doing that, how has it helped you, and what have you learned from it?
I’m very visual and charts help me digest information quickly. Are charts the sole reason for my progress? No, but it helps see the progress. Also, charts and spreadsheets are fun. So maybe I’m just tracking because I’m a nerd? It’s almost as fun as the climbing.
I have learned about what data doesn’t really matter (for me). I stopped tracking heart rate and cardio zones last year because there was no correlation with climbing progress. (If I were to switch to trail running or alpinism, this would change.)
The data that helps most is time on the wall. It’s helpful for 2 reasons: 1, as you refine a route in the redpoint process, your time on the wall begins to drop dramatically. 2, it’s important to get appropriate rest after redpoint burns. For instance, if I do a redpoint burn and it takes 10 minutes, I know there may still be some work and I definitely need 45-60 minutes to rest. If I fall after 2 minutes I can hop back on sooner.
I have learned about what data doesn’t really matter (for me). I stopped tracking heart rate and cardio zones last year because there was no correlation with climbing progress. (If I were to switch to trail running or alpinism, this would change.)
The data that helps most is time on the wall. It’s helpful for 2 reasons: 1, as you refine a route in the redpoint process, your time on the wall begins to drop dramatically. 2, it’s important to get appropriate rest after redpoint burns. For instance, if I do a redpoint burn and it takes 10 minutes, I know there may still be some work and I definitely need 45-60 minutes to rest. If I fall after 2 minutes I can hop back on sooner.
Maddie Singleton (IG: @madisonsingleton) on "Monster Skank" (5.13b/30), Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. (Photo credit: Charlie S. @cabinfeverfighter)
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Mary Bjorklund (IG: @m_e_r_r_y_m_a_r_y) taking an unconventional approach (it didn’t work) on "Risk Brothers Roof" (5.11a/22), Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. (Photo credit: Charlie S. @cabinfeverfighter)
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Do you do any similar tracking with your photography? (e.g. camera, lends, light settings, and results?)
Believe it or not…no.
How have you grown as a climber and photographer? And, what are your climbing and photography goals?
Climbing is more the conduit of growth rather than the growth. It takes you to some pretty amazing places and cultures. It can also stretch you and test your patience (especially with a rowdy party nearby). I guess you could get that same effect anywhere else. I do wish I knew 15 years ago what I know now about training and injury prevention.
It’d be nice to climb 5.14 someday. That’s a way-out-there, big-hairy-goal type thing.
I recently finished a photo book of all the photos I shot and liked back to 2008. That was a fun project. I’d like to make another one in another 10 or so years with new photos. I’d also like to make a feature film of all the amateur crushers here in Vegas.
It’d be nice to climb 5.14 someday. That’s a way-out-there, big-hairy-goal type thing.
I recently finished a photo book of all the photos I shot and liked back to 2008. That was a fun project. I’d like to make another one in another 10 or so years with new photos. I’d also like to make a feature film of all the amateur crushers here in Vegas.
The late Cassy Doolittle on "Dark Passenger" (5.13a/29), Blue Diamond Cave, Nevada. (Photo credit: Charlie S. @cabinfeverfighter)
Any last words for our readers?
Don’t get injured. Stupid hurts. Expand your horizons past climbing; there’s more out there. Make family and friends priority. Get photos of your friends (even with a phone; there’s a sad story here for another time). Plan for and invest in your future (this means work). Buy a house if you can and put some elbow grease into it. Learn how to use power tools. Get married. Don’t just be a consumer; contribute something too. Have fun in the process.
“Pay now, play later. Play now, pay later,” – Dad, growing up.
Does all that make me sound old?
“You’re the oldest 30 year old I know!” – Tom, to me, 5 years ago.
“Pay now, play later. Play now, pay later,” – Dad, growing up.
Does all that make me sound old?
“You’re the oldest 30 year old I know!” – Tom, to me, 5 years ago.
Lindsey Ricci on "Go Sparky Go" (5.11+/23), Indian Creek, Utah. (Photo credit: Charlie S. @cabinfeverfighter)