Surrounded by granite, water, and moss, Canadian climber Tom Canac established a new bigwall line, Le Temps Suspendu, on Cap Trinité in Quebec, Canada. The initial attempt began with two friends, Tom Canac and Hugo Drouin. Progress was slow-but-steady, but was ultimately thwarted by record-setting rains. Hugo decided to move on from the project and Tom was left to complete the line. Tom's journey, including his ultimate aid-rope-solo effort, was captured in an award-winning documentary, Le Temps Suspendu, filmed, directed, and edited by Philippe Larivière. Common Climber interviews Tom to learn more about this climb and some of the behind-the-scenes moments of this solo endeavor.
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To begin, for those of us who do not speak French, what does the title of the documentary "Le Temps Suspendu" mean in English and why was that title chosen?
Le Temps Suspendu means “Suspended in Time”. I had the revelation of the name of the route on the wall while waiting for a storm to pass in my portaledge. Being a weekend warrior, I spent a few weeks each year for three years to finish my route. The name seemed obvious, as a reference to both the time it took, and the fact that when you aid climb, you are kind of “hanging” in your aiders and it goes slowly. The Cap Trinité wall is located in the Saguenay Fjord National Park in the Quebec Provence. The rock is granite and the climbs range from 150 - 300 meters (490 - 1000 feet). What does this wall mean for climbing in Quebec or Canada?
Cap Trinité is basically our east-coast wild big wall. It’s one of the biggest and steepest faces we have. It can seem a bit ridiculous for any El Cap climber to consider 300m of granite a “big wall”, but it is. Access is by boat, not all routes are often climbed, and rock can vary a lot in quality. Even Pass the Pitons Pete, who climbed more El Cap routes than anyone in the world, said that Cap Trinité is “very big wally." |
Le Temps Suspendu: 26 minutes |
For locals, it is absolutely a classic test piece. A lot of climbers dream to one day climb Grands Galets, which is the most popular route at 5.12d or 5.8 A2. It’s the pinnacle of Québec wilderness, while still being relatively accessible (8 hours by car north from Montréal plus a 30 minutes boat ride).
The Cap Trinité wall is located in the Saguenay Fjord National Park in the Quebec Provence. Tom is the small spec in the upper right corner. (Photo Credit: Charles Bernier)
When I look on Mountain Project it shows 16 climbs with a variety of grades and aid types/levels (e.g. 5.11d, 5.13b, 5.8 A2, 5.10a C3- PG13) and many points in between. Tell us about the climb you established (name of the climb, grade, length, how does it compare to other climbs on the wall?) (The Crag shows 10 routes)
Le Temps Suspendu is a pretty long route, just shy of 10 pitches. The lower part is shared with another route (Le Temps Libre, that was put up by friends). The route is rated 5.6 A3, with an involved aid crux on the last pitch. As of now, the route is fully scrubbed and clean. I also opened free climbing variations with my friend and partner Simon Bossé. It’s not sent yet but should be somewhere in the 5.13 range. Note that now you can skip the A3 crux for a short A2+ section. The route could also go at 5.12 A2, or 5.11 A2, etc. It’s a brilliant line to work your “as free as can be” skills!
Le Temps Suspendu is a pretty long route, just shy of 10 pitches. The lower part is shared with another route (Le Temps Libre, that was put up by friends). The route is rated 5.6 A3, with an involved aid crux on the last pitch. As of now, the route is fully scrubbed and clean. I also opened free climbing variations with my friend and partner Simon Bossé. It’s not sent yet but should be somewhere in the 5.13 range. Note that now you can skip the A3 crux for a short A2+ section. The route could also go at 5.12 A2, or 5.11 A2, etc. It’s a brilliant line to work your “as free as can be” skills!
The start of the climb "Le Temps Suspendu." Tom Canac began the journey with friend and climber Hugo Drouin. (Photo Credit: Philippe Lariviere)
There are many climbs on that wall with a high number of stars, but also many listed as bombs - and others given no star rating. Have you assigned a star rating to the climb you established? If so, what did you give it and why?
Well, first, I need to say, on the 16 routes you can see on Mountain Project, I added most of them myself! The “bomb” routes are marked as so because they are historical routes - very old school, full of chimneys and lichen. On some of them, the drainage system has changed over the years and are now full of moss and perpetual seepage.
I absolutely love climbing history, and I have some good information about those past glorious climbs, so I added them online to be sure that the information wouldn’t be lost, but it’s actually poor climbing projects. I explicitly specified those climbs are “bombs” because it would be terrible style that someone go there and scrub the moss out of them. Those climbs are a natural water drainage, and if you spend any time there in the summer and look around, you will very quickly observe that birds and animals use those lines as shelter and water source. It would be an absolute shame to make the place only for us climbers. Note that we also are in a national park, which has and deserves extra protections.
I suggested the full-star package for Le Temps Suspendu. I guess I’m a little bit biased, but the exposure is stellar, and you basically climb the same, uninterrupted crack (fingers to hands), for 3 pitches, with a single slab traverse in between two cracks, at 280m above the fjord. It’s that good!
Well, first, I need to say, on the 16 routes you can see on Mountain Project, I added most of them myself! The “bomb” routes are marked as so because they are historical routes - very old school, full of chimneys and lichen. On some of them, the drainage system has changed over the years and are now full of moss and perpetual seepage.
I absolutely love climbing history, and I have some good information about those past glorious climbs, so I added them online to be sure that the information wouldn’t be lost, but it’s actually poor climbing projects. I explicitly specified those climbs are “bombs” because it would be terrible style that someone go there and scrub the moss out of them. Those climbs are a natural water drainage, and if you spend any time there in the summer and look around, you will very quickly observe that birds and animals use those lines as shelter and water source. It would be an absolute shame to make the place only for us climbers. Note that we also are in a national park, which has and deserves extra protections.
I suggested the full-star package for Le Temps Suspendu. I guess I’m a little bit biased, but the exposure is stellar, and you basically climb the same, uninterrupted crack (fingers to hands), for 3 pitches, with a single slab traverse in between two cracks, at 280m above the fjord. It’s that good!
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Have you done other climbs on that wall? If so which ones?
Well, yes and no! I never topped-out on any route before opening my route. After climbing Le Temps Suspendu, I decided to do Fox Victor India solo, but I ended up hitting the wall on my 3rd day and eventually getting lost on the wall. Being alone, I decided to go down, so I got two pitches short of the top. I am currently in the process of opening another route, so I guess I’ll keep avoiding the easy way up! Tell us about the process of deciding to establish a new line on the wall?
To be honest, there is a part of ego in the process. When I saw the wall and I learned the history, part of me was screaming that I wanted to be part of this book. That I’ll be a real climber when I’ll have opened a route up there by myself. Obviously, it’s a lure of the ego. Now I know that the bait just gets a bit further every time. Eventually, the reason to keep going back to the project was more and more driven by the love of the place. The silence, the wilderness, sleeping on the wall, understanding how the place and the weather works. The Fjord. It eventually turned into a love story with the boreal forest and the wall, more than a climbing thing. I just wanted to be there. And even now, I still sometimes hike up there just to sleep on the wall in my ledge, or swim in the cold fjord. |
Philippe Lariviere jugging up the line to make progress after a night bivvying on the wall. (Photo Credit: Charles Bernier)
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Have you done other first ascents? If so, how did this one compare to those? (Have you ever done an FA lead solo aid climb?)
Yes, I open routes here and there in Québec (Hautes Gorges, Grands-Jardins, etc.). Québec is one of those places where you have enormous potential for new routes, and a lot of rock, but not that many climbers. So, if you climb long enough or hard enough, you’ll get into establishing new routes without a doubt. I have opened other rope solo aid climbs as training for this. As of now, Le Temps Suspendu is, for sure, my best new route.
Yes, I open routes here and there in Québec (Hautes Gorges, Grands-Jardins, etc.). Québec is one of those places where you have enormous potential for new routes, and a lot of rock, but not that many climbers. So, if you climb long enough or hard enough, you’ll get into establishing new routes without a doubt. I have opened other rope solo aid climbs as training for this. As of now, Le Temps Suspendu is, for sure, my best new route.
How did you decide to make a documentary about this ascent?
It’s very funny, because it was not a plan. Both my first partner for the project (Hugo Drouin) and I learned that a young guy from town was trying to find climbers to practice filming and photos. We asked each other at the same time “Hey, I have an idea, we could make a movie with Phil”, et voilà!
It’s very funny, because it was not a plan. Both my first partner for the project (Hugo Drouin) and I learned that a young guy from town was trying to find climbers to practice filming and photos. We asked each other at the same time “Hey, I have an idea, we could make a movie with Phil”, et voilà!
Tom Canac placing a piton to lower and pendulum to access the summit of the route. (Photo Credit: Philippe Larivière)
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Philippe Larivière is the Director, have you worked with him before? Does Philippe climb as well?
We didn’t know each other before the film, but we became close friends after the movie. It was his first film project, and I explained to him how to jug up a rope two weeks before shooting. His first real rope ascent was at 2 a.m. under pouring rain. He learns fast. How did Philippe set up the shots? Was he (let me know if Philippe uses other pronouns) the one filmed when you were with the other climbers and when you were lead aid soloing?
Philippe did most of the shoot and helped by our friend Charles Bernier (who had the company that sponsored the movie at the time, Antopo.) They came from the top with ropes. To preserve the feeling of exploration, I asked that no one raps the line before I climbed it and allowed them to be above me only in the last 60 meters of the climb. They followed me on fixed ropes a few times to have close up shots, and we shared camp a couple times. Obviously, the experience wasn’t a real solo, since they were around, so I had friends for a rescue if needed. But we took those measures, so I was able to still have a good experience, and live my solo thing, while also being able to produce a high-quality movie. The documentary takes us on the journey of this climb - it began as a joint project with other climbers (Were those other climbers Hugo Drouin and Cécile Hauchecorne?) and ended with you solo aid climbing it. Tell us about what happened, how it ended up with you lead aid soloing it? What was your decision process?
I started the project with Hugo Drouin only. Cécile is a friend that is boat captain, she is the one that took us to the cliff nearly every time. When Hugo decided to leave the project, it was obvious for me to keep going alone. I was already climbing by myself (with a rope) for quite some time, so it was the perfect project. I knew the place, had the beta, a movie already started, and friends willing to help to bring the vision to reality (and water up the hill). I didn’t hesitate a second. |
Philippe Larivière - director, cinematography, editing (Photo Credit: Émile Dontigny)
Charles Bernier - cinematography.
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Hugo Drouin is a Canadian climber who started the first ascent journey with Tom, but after record-setting rains, he chose to leave the team. (Photo Credit: *)
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The team at high camp early in the adventure. It was just after heavy rains. The team is smiling, but it was the lowest low of the expedition. (From Left to Right: Hugo Drouin, Charles Bernier, and Philippe Larivière. Photo Credit: Tom Canac)
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Did you encounter any "dead ends" where you couldn't aid climb any longer (the cracks petered out/stopped)? (Is your climb 100% aid?)
I haven’t found any dead ends, because I scoped the wall out with a telescope when I was in the boat, so I knew the crack was going up there. The traverse between the cracks on the last pitch was the only question.
I haven’t found any dead ends, because I scoped the wall out with a telescope when I was in the boat, so I knew the crack was going up there. The traverse between the cracks on the last pitch was the only question.
How long did it take to complete the FA? How many nights did you bivvy on the wall?
In total it was 21 days, spread over 3 summers. Again, I’m a weekend warrior, and I had to make it work with my job vacation time. Also, it was my first big wall first ascent. With more experience and a better time window, it could have gone much faster. It’s cool to think that basically, the time it took for me to get up the route was also me maturing as a climber. I learned quite a lot while doing so.
In total it was 21 days, spread over 3 summers. Again, I’m a weekend warrior, and I had to make it work with my job vacation time. Also, it was my first big wall first ascent. With more experience and a better time window, it could have gone much faster. It’s cool to think that basically, the time it took for me to get up the route was also me maturing as a climber. I learned quite a lot while doing so.
A view of the fjord from the portaledge. (Photo Credit: Charles Bernier)
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Tom Canac on his portaledge. Note that he is surrounded by moss except for the line below him, which has been cleaned. (Photo Credit: Philippe Larivière)
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Have you redone the climb since the FA? If so, what was that like? Did anything change?
I haven’t climbed it from the bottom, but I rapped the line quite a few times to clean it and open the free variations! It’s in much better shape now that blocks have been cleaned, and that lichen is tamed a little bit. It’s still very exposed and everything, but now the rock and line quality are shining bright. It’s even more beautiful than on the FA.
I haven’t climbed it from the bottom, but I rapped the line quite a few times to clean it and open the free variations! It’s in much better shape now that blocks have been cleaned, and that lichen is tamed a little bit. It’s still very exposed and everything, but now the rock and line quality are shining bright. It’s even more beautiful than on the FA.
Has anyone else done the climb that you know of? If so, what is their take on the climb?
A team of friends of mine did the second ascent. They aid climbed the free variation. As far as I know, they quite enjoyed the exposure and the place. They also found the aid climbing quite straightforward.
A team of friends of mine did the second ascent. They aid climbed the free variation. As far as I know, they quite enjoyed the exposure and the place. They also found the aid climbing quite straightforward.
Is there anything you would do differently in the process?
Not really, I learned a ton of things, and the process helped me to develop as a climber and athlete. It helped me to have a little bit of visibility, I made long lasting friendships, and I discovered a place I will love and go back all my life. I wouldn’t change anything, not even the nights under pouring rain without a portaledge fly.
Not really, I learned a ton of things, and the process helped me to develop as a climber and athlete. It helped me to have a little bit of visibility, I made long lasting friendships, and I discovered a place I will love and go back all my life. I wouldn’t change anything, not even the nights under pouring rain without a portaledge fly.
Tom Canac scoping out the path forward. (Photo Credit: Philippe Larivière)
What was it like being filmed the entire time?
It was ok since we were all involved in the project, and I trusted that it would be a high-quality movie. We believed in what we were doing and had ton of fun. I’m at ease behind the lens, so I also was able to “turn the switch” and forget about it and just be myself. Doing that may not be easy for everyone, but during this process I discovered that I could do it.
It was ok since we were all involved in the project, and I trusted that it would be a high-quality movie. We believed in what we were doing and had ton of fun. I’m at ease behind the lens, so I also was able to “turn the switch” and forget about it and just be myself. Doing that may not be easy for everyone, but during this process I discovered that I could do it.
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What was the scariest moment?
I would say the aid crux, for sure. The movie shows well the pressure of this moment. Right after the crux, the gear was not immediately good, so pressure kept building. I was in the frying pan for a solid 30 to 45 minutes. What was the most frustrating moment?
For me it was probably when we got washed out of the face without doing a single new pitch. Everything was there, we had ropes fixed for the camera crew, the camp was settled at our high point… And then a tropical storm swept through Quebec, and we got absolutely drenched. It was frustrating to go down and to do all of this for nothing. In the end, we learned a lot, and this situation got the project to the next step, so it was still worth it. |
Close-up of Tom Canac aid-lead-soloing. Note the hook above his left hand. (Photo Credit: Charles Bernier)
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It’s also a pretty cool story to tell around a beer now! Absolute classic type 2 fun.
What was the most rewarding moment?
Topping the route and having my close friend right there. The closing picture of the movie is very naïve, it was my honest reaction. You know, usually you don’t have anything at the top of a route. Trees. Maybe a pile of rocks. It doesn’t get any better than finding friendship at the top of a climb.
Topping the route and having my close friend right there. The closing picture of the movie is very naïve, it was my honest reaction. You know, usually you don’t have anything at the top of a route. Trees. Maybe a pile of rocks. It doesn’t get any better than finding friendship at the top of a climb.
It is really neat to have a video capturing the experience, was anything left out of the final version of the film? Do you feel the film captured everything, or all that you wanted captured?
I couldn’t be happier with the movie. Philippe’s movie is very realistic, and it grasps a lot of intimacy and subtle moments of the climb. When I first saw the movie, I cried many times watching it.
I couldn’t be happier with the movie. Philippe’s movie is very realistic, and it grasps a lot of intimacy and subtle moments of the climb. When I first saw the movie, I cried many times watching it.
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What is next for you?
Well, this project was already two years ago, since I have climbed my first El Cap route. We did the 2nd ascent of Atlantis, an old school A4 route, which took 18 days, with 12 days-worth of food. It’s a good story too! I also invested a lot of time in my winter climbing. I love ice and mixed climbing - it’s the style of climbing where I try to push myself the most I think. I have another route I’m trying to finish on Cap Trinité, and then… so many things! Do you have any last words for our readers?
Cap Trinité is a very special place. Everyone is welcome here but know that the balance is subtle: It cannot accommodate a lot of parties; It’s in a national park; There is no service; And, there's not a lot of ground to climb. There are also strict conservations rules (no littering, no fires, peregrine falcon closures, permanently closed sectors, etc.)It would be very bad for locals and climbers in general if parties would come and disrespect those rules. Until now everything has worked perfectly, so if you have read all of this and you feel the call of this place, please, take the time to understand how the place works, and how you could minimize your impact on the wilderness here. It’s important for us. Thanks. Note that we have a group “Escalade Cap Trinité Climbing” where we organize trail maintenance, discuss access, and answer general questions. |
Tom Canac on Loder Peak in the Canadian Rockies. In addition to aid climbing he loves ice and mixed climbing. (Photo Credit: Philippe Larivière)
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CONTACT:
Tom Canac
Instagram: @tomcanac
Philippe Larivière
Instagram: @phil_lariviere
Charles Bernier
Instagram: @echarde_bernier
Tom Canac
Instagram: @tomcanac
Philippe Larivière
Instagram: @phil_lariviere
Charles Bernier
Instagram: @echarde_bernier