I’m not sure why I got a wild hair and offered to do a book review.
Perhaps it was because I met the author, Jeff Smoot, at the Idaho Mountain Festival and he gave quite an entertaining talk. Perhaps it was because I’ve been marginally curious about climbing history.
The problem is, I don’t really read books (I think my book-reading-aversion came from being force-fed them in high school and college…).
Occasionally, I attempt to read a book, but here’s what that looks like the majority of the time -- Chapter 1, page 10: I’m done.
Sometimes, I actually make it half way – but rarely. Although I am pretty much obsessed with rock climbing, my inability to complete books includes those about rock climbing. The list of rock-climbing-related books I have started and not finished is significantly longer than the ones I have read to the end.
So, given my general aversion to book reading, offering to review a book I hadn’t even looked at was, to say the least, living dangerously. But, I figured if it sucked, my review could disappear into the ethers.
But, I’m guessing you know where this is headed. I actually finished the book. On top of that, I enjoyed it.
So what’s Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14 about? Well, the title does a pretty good Cliff-notes job of giving you the run-down. It’s pretty clear that if you are into rock climbing history and/or curious about how crushing hard routes began, this book is for you.
But I’m not here to tell you the storyline or drop names of all the legends represented in this book. I’m here to tell you why I kept reading - it was Jeff’s perspective - his storytelling.
Hangdog Days isn’t a dry tome of historic references and dates written in the 3rd person. Nor is it a rah-rah-rah, turn-the-stoke-meter-up-to-11 story of “we kicked ass” “aren’t we awesome?!” smugness. Instead, this is a messy tale of personalities and history-making as seen through the eyes of a Common Climber – Jeff.
Sure, Jeff could pull a crimp or two on some of the harder climbs of the day, but mostly, Jeff was the friend, the fly-on-the-wall-belayer, the grab-a-shot photographer, and the encourager. Jeff also knew when he needed a break from the hoopla, stepping into and out of the competative, testosterone-fueled, dirt-bag lifestyle lead by many of the world’s leading crushers. Jeff weaved into and out of the paths of many of the cutting-edge climbers and he brings us this tale.
Jeff’s fresh perspective makes for an engaging story. Although there are many moments of try-hard and truly stellar achievements in this book, there are also stories of humans: Aussie climbers who got on people’s nerves and called everyone a wanker; dirt-bags scarfing happy-hour bar food and almost getting their asses kicked by the locals; And, Todd Skinner’s propensity for embellished storytelling around the campfire.
Jeff also tells of some of the appalling, hypocritical behavior of the day – all in the name of protecting a “belief.” Jeff is not afraid to speak frankly of the bad-behavior that peppers Yosemite history (shit on a rope anyone?) and the “purist” climbing mentality that seemed to have kept American climbers from achieving the higher grades early on – instead giving that accomplishment to the Europeans.
The war between “old schoolers” and “hangdoggers” went far beyond the bolt-chopping we’ve all heard of and some of the actions left me shaking my head in utter disbelief.
Perhaps it was because I met the author, Jeff Smoot, at the Idaho Mountain Festival and he gave quite an entertaining talk. Perhaps it was because I’ve been marginally curious about climbing history.
The problem is, I don’t really read books (I think my book-reading-aversion came from being force-fed them in high school and college…).
Occasionally, I attempt to read a book, but here’s what that looks like the majority of the time -- Chapter 1, page 10: I’m done.
Sometimes, I actually make it half way – but rarely. Although I am pretty much obsessed with rock climbing, my inability to complete books includes those about rock climbing. The list of rock-climbing-related books I have started and not finished is significantly longer than the ones I have read to the end.
So, given my general aversion to book reading, offering to review a book I hadn’t even looked at was, to say the least, living dangerously. But, I figured if it sucked, my review could disappear into the ethers.
But, I’m guessing you know where this is headed. I actually finished the book. On top of that, I enjoyed it.
So what’s Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14 about? Well, the title does a pretty good Cliff-notes job of giving you the run-down. It’s pretty clear that if you are into rock climbing history and/or curious about how crushing hard routes began, this book is for you.
But I’m not here to tell you the storyline or drop names of all the legends represented in this book. I’m here to tell you why I kept reading - it was Jeff’s perspective - his storytelling.
Hangdog Days isn’t a dry tome of historic references and dates written in the 3rd person. Nor is it a rah-rah-rah, turn-the-stoke-meter-up-to-11 story of “we kicked ass” “aren’t we awesome?!” smugness. Instead, this is a messy tale of personalities and history-making as seen through the eyes of a Common Climber – Jeff.
Sure, Jeff could pull a crimp or two on some of the harder climbs of the day, but mostly, Jeff was the friend, the fly-on-the-wall-belayer, the grab-a-shot photographer, and the encourager. Jeff also knew when he needed a break from the hoopla, stepping into and out of the competative, testosterone-fueled, dirt-bag lifestyle lead by many of the world’s leading crushers. Jeff weaved into and out of the paths of many of the cutting-edge climbers and he brings us this tale.
Jeff’s fresh perspective makes for an engaging story. Although there are many moments of try-hard and truly stellar achievements in this book, there are also stories of humans: Aussie climbers who got on people’s nerves and called everyone a wanker; dirt-bags scarfing happy-hour bar food and almost getting their asses kicked by the locals; And, Todd Skinner’s propensity for embellished storytelling around the campfire.
Jeff also tells of some of the appalling, hypocritical behavior of the day – all in the name of protecting a “belief.” Jeff is not afraid to speak frankly of the bad-behavior that peppers Yosemite history (shit on a rope anyone?) and the “purist” climbing mentality that seemed to have kept American climbers from achieving the higher grades early on – instead giving that accomplishment to the Europeans.
The war between “old schoolers” and “hangdoggers” went far beyond the bolt-chopping we’ve all heard of and some of the actions left me shaking my head in utter disbelief.
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If you are looking for a fresh, funny, engaging, and informative read about personalities, climbing history (including why 5.11d, 5.12d, etc. ARE sandbagged – no, it’s not your imagination), and what it took to finally achieve 5.14, I highly recommend Jeff’s book. If you are simply looking for an entertaining climbing story, I recommend Jeff’s book.
But, I’m not the only one who is smootin, I mean smitten, with Hangdog Days – it also made the 2019 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature short list AND the Banff Mountain Book Competition short list . Nice work Jeff - now go climb Astroman - I'm sure your car is safe now too. Check out Jeff's story "The Tape Job" about double amputee Hugh Herr completing an FFA. The story is featured in the "Overcoming Boundaries" edition of Common Climber. |
Jeff Smoot, the author of Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14. Photo Credit: Truc Nguyen Allen
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