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: North Conway, NH: Review - Yeahs & Neahs

The ground rules for climbing location "yeahs" and "neahs"
  • Each location will receive an opinion rating - "It Rocks!", "Worth It," "Meh," or "Trash."
  • Each crag has its own personality with unique advantages and challenges, which are highlighted.
  • It is tempting to list “beautiful” as a “yeah,” but that is true for a lot of crags. I allude to beauty and scenery in the summary. You can also (sometimes) tell by the photo. If the place is a dump, then that will be listed in the “neahs” and rated as "Meh" or "Trash.
Summary
 
North Conway, New Hampshire is THE classic traditional climbing corridor of New England.  Blessed with an incredible diversity of granite (yes, one area is quite different from the next) and other types of rock (including schist and basalt-like syanite), there are a lifetime of climbs in this little section of the White Mountains alone (and this does not even include Cannon and the areas near Franconia, NH or Rumney, NH at the southern end of the White Mountains.)
 
The main climbing areas near North Conway are Whitehorse Ledge (shown in cover photo) and Cathedral Ledge, and several other nearby ledges (e.g. Humphrey's), however there are also numerous other areas scattered nearby, some of which are bolted sport areas (primarily on the schist rock).
 
The town of North Conway is a cute tourist town with all the amenities, including the well stocked local North Conway climbing shop and used gear shop IME (International Mountain Equipment).
 
New Hampshire is blessed with an abundance of gorgeous mountain rivers. On hot summer days nothing beats hopping in the water after a climb. In the Fall the hardwoods put on their spectacular color show.

Directions
 
The directions to each climbing area will vary. It is very helpful to get a guidebook (see resources below).
 
North Conway itself is located off Highway 302 about 2.5 hours northwest of Boston, MA and 1.5 northwest of Portland, Maine.
 
Grading, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
 
In general the grading is old school and the bolts are scarce - this is primary traditional climbing, although some sport can be found.
 
Beware! Whitehorse Ledge is primarily labeled as trad but on most climbs it is not even protectable by trad. The abundance of runout is so prevelant that the Handren guidebook doesn’t even bother to list climbs on Whitehorse as rated X or R. He simply places a "runout" statement in the introductory paragraph. Almost every climb at Whitehorse is run out, some with 30 feet between protection, others with 160 feet (e.g. Sea of Holes - which we nicknamed "See No Holes" after a severe lack of locations to place pro). Even with climb descriptions, you can’t really tell which climbs are more run out than others. Some of the most popular easy classics on the far right end of the wall have some of the smaller run outs (at around 30 feet between pro).
 
Also, tricams are a MUST on Whitehorse (and some of the other local areas). Whitehorse has these random holes in the rock that might be able to fit the correct sized tricam. Get a variety of sizes, from small to larger. You will be happy you had them!
 
Guidebook Resources:
  • Jerry Handren’s guidebook, “North Conway Rock Climbs” is the go-to guidebook (yes that is the same Jerry Handren as Red Rocks: A Climbing Guide). You can get the book online or go to IME.
  • Mountain Project
    • Cathedral Ledge: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105908823/cathedral-ledge
    • Whitehorse Ledge: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105909079/whitehorse-ledge
    • North Conway: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/110932434/wm-north-conway
    • Map of MP White Mountain Region for other climbing areas within a 1.5 hour drive of North Conway: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/112044781/overview-of-the-wm-areasoriginal-map-from-httpwwwvisitnhgovinformationabout-the-
 
 
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
 
The area is best known for its “bulletproof” granite – which basically means super solid (in most, but not all, places) and high density. The granite varies greatly from one cliffband to the next (i.e. Cathedral has very different climbing than Whitehorse, Humpry’s Ledge is different yet).
 
Whitehorse is a granite multipitch slab-lovers dream (and, as mentioned above, very run out…). Climbs can be as long as 1000 feet. Many of the climbs have bolted belay stations and can be rappelled down, although climbs on the far right side have a well-maintained walk-off path (used by bikes and hikers). Or you can hitch a ride down from a car. In general the friction is good, but it can be slick on popular climbs or different colored sections of rock (lighter versus dark sections).
 
Cathedral and Humpry’s are featured granite face climbing. Both have multipitch trad climbs, although Humphry’s is a shorter wall than Cathedral.
 
If you are seeking different rock, check out the nearby Sundown Crag (off the Kanc Highway – HWY 112), which has traditional climbs on shorter volcanic rock called syenite. Syenite looks and feels like the basalt family. It is dark in color, has good features/fractures for protection, and the friction is variable.
 
North Conway also has some bolted climbs on schist (the same rock at Rumney).
 
Camping & Accommodations
 
North Conway is a tourist town so there are plenty of cute hotels and motels. There are numerous private camping areas along the highway as well.
 
Cathedral Ledge is located in Echo Lake State park. As of this writing parking is paid via donation. Echo Lake State Park does NOT have camping.
 
Several Federal campgrounds are located along Highway 112 (The Kanc Highway) near the Sundown Crag (Covered Bridge Campground and Blackberry Crossing Campground).
 
Yeahs

  • Excellent varied climbing on excellent rock
  • Abundance of climbs on different rock types
  • North Conway is a cute tourist town (traffic can get congested through the main part of town) with all the amenities you’d want.
  • Rivers! Swimming!
  • Hardwood trees – shade in the summer (although it can still get quite hot on the rock) and color in the fall
  • Although some summer days can get toasty, its far enough north to have many comfortable summer climbing days.
 
Neahs

  • Can get busy on the weekends
  • Bugs (especially in the spring, but they don’t seem to really go away…)
  • Bad runout in places (especially Whitehorse)
 
Opinion Rating

  • It Rocks!

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  • Writing
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          • Adaptive Climbing Photo Feature: Paradox Sports
          • Advocating for Deaf Climbers: Sonya Wilson
          • Amputations: Leg Prosthesis for Climbing
          • Blind Ambition Builds a World Class Climber: The Story of Jesse Dufton
          • Climbing with Type 1 Diabetes
          • First Paralyzed Ascents: Rand Abbott
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          • Belaytionships: Drew-and-Sarah
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          • Book Review: Uncoiling the Ropes
          • Zac the Interloper
        • Big Wall Edition >
          • Book Review: Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
          • Featured Photographer: Matt Spohn
          • Grading Commitment
          • Hanging with the Monkeys, and Getting the Monkey Off My Back
          • It Was His Time: Brad Gobright Interview May 2019
          • John Middendorf : A Big Man for a Big Stone
          • Sébastien Berthe Free Climbs the Nose From the Ground Up
          • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
        • Developers and Guidebook Authors >
          • Developer - Mitch Lehman
          • Andrew Penny - A Blue Mountaineer
          • Kevin Powell
          • Rock Star Groupie
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        • Exploring Our World >
          • AUSTRALIA - Photographer - Diego Perez
          • AUSTRALIA - Profile - Julie Anderson
          • Book Review - Climbing Rock
          • CHINA - From Yangshuo, to Getu, to Liming
          • FRANCE - Verdon in Winter
          • GREECE - Meteora
          • ITALY - Dolomites
          • MEXICO - La Huasteca
          • SPAIN - Artist - Karmelo Onate
          • UTAH - Maple Canyon: This One Makes You Taller
        • Honoring Diversity >
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          • MOVIE: People of Climbing:
          • Profile - Favia Dubyk
          • The Lineage
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          • Joshua Tree: Heinous Approaches
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          • Profile - Louise Shepherd
          • Profile - Megan Banker
          • Profile - Shawn Axelrod
          • Rock Type 1
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        • Dear Memory
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        • How to Climb and Avoid the Corona Virus
        • Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining
        • The 5.10 Commandments
        • Trying to Send this Route
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        • A Rack Retrospective
        • Cam Ranges (+ Big Bros)
        • Carabiner Strength Ratings
        • Climbing Shoes Fit
        • Guide Book Follies
        • Rope Buying 101
        • Shit Happens – Or, Why You Need a Walkie Talkie
        • The One Item to Stockpile
        • Which Way Should I Carry My Trad Rack?
        • Why GriGris Suck
        • 8 Reasons I Carry a Full Rack on Every Trad Climb
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      • Grades, Styles, & Types >
        • Bouldering-Falling
        • Bouldering Grade Advancements
        • Grading Climbs at the Gym
        • It's a F-ing Chimney
        • Onsight vs Flash vs Etc...
        • Top 10: Increase the Climbing Grade When...
        • Trad Climbing is for Chicken Sh*#s
        • WTF 5.7?
        • 18 Climber Types: Which Are You?
      • Kids >
        • Family Stages
        • The Guidebook
      • Legends >
        • B - Joe Brown
        • G - Brad Gobright
        • G - Todd Gordon
        • H - Hugh Herr
        • H - Thomas Huber - In Another World - A Personal Climbing Journey
        • J - Saxon Johns
        • M - Tim Macartney-Snape: ​A Legend from Sea to Summit
        • M - John Middendorf
      • Mental-Physical >
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          • Rock Climber Mobility
          • Train the Mind: Mental Toughness Tips for Quaratraining
        • A Climb Worth Fighting For
        • Achilles
        • Everyone Around Me Is Better Than I Am
        • Fear, Pride, and Exploration
        • How Auto-Immune Disease Affected My Climbing
        • Mastering Joy on Easy Street
        • Mind, Body, and Soul
        • New Year's Resolutions
        • Of Cartoons and Quickdraws
        • Push and Pull
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        • Take Risks - You'll Remember Them Later
        • The Art of Climbing Without Rock
        • The Devil's Game
        • The Taste of Climbing
        • 12-Weeks to Onsighting a 5.8
      • Other/Misc >
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        • Climbing Resolutions
        • Demented Dirtbag
        • Don't Take Granite for Granite
        • Dorothy, We Aren't on Havana Anymore
        • Guatemalan Worry Dolls Go Climbing
        • No Health Insurance Changed How I Climb
        • Snakes and Ladders
        • Starting Over
        • The Adventure of A Lifetime - So Far
        • The Bane of Northwest Climbing
        • The Pink Tricam
        • Things of Stone and Wood
        • Zac the Interloper
      • Places & Climbs >
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          • Consolation Prize
          • Flakes and Shakes: Flake Crack Revisited
          • From Yorkshire to Eternity
          • Tombstone Territory
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
        • Location Reviews
        • My Home Crag >
          • Climbing in the Upper Cumberland Valley, Kentucky
          • My Home Crag: Nowra, NSW, Australia
        • Travel Stories >
          • Blue Mountains - Bliss: Climbing in the Blueys
          • Buenos Aires, Argentina Crag
          • Colorado - Calling Pat Ament
          • Coolum Cave - Sendfest 8
          • Ecuador - A Nation of Four Worlds
          • El Potrero Chico - Riding the Dirty Dog
          • Yosemite: Growing Up
          • Lover's Leap - Zone of Craptitude
          • Rio de Janeiro - Classic Climbs Sampler
          • Taghia, Morocco - Hardly Failing
          • Tasmania - Legend of the ‘Unclimbable Cliff’
          • Thailand - Lost and Found: A Mini-Epic in Paradise
          • Vedauwoo, WY
          • Yosemite - What We Came For
          • 20 World Destinations for Adventurous Climbing
        • 2020 U.S. Rock Climbing Festivals
      • Poetry/Prose >
        • Anti-Social Climbers
        • Sojourn at Dyuritte
        • Finding Poetry
        • Ice is Nice
        • The Space Between
      • Safety and Skills >
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        • Euro-Death Knot is NOT
        • Multi-Pitch Tips: Two ATCs
        • Sketchy Anchor Bolts
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        • Three Ways to Use a Stick Clip
        • Top 10: Climbing Best Practices
      • Science Fiction >
        • Red Curtain: Prologue
      • Social, Social Media, & Social Issues >
        • Chossy Trio Renegades
        • Climbing into the Fold
        • Diversity in Climbing is Not a Bandwagon
        • Fuck "Gumbies" and "Noobs"
        • Montana, My Home: Claire Larson
        • My Husband Climbs Stronger than Me
        • Navajo Rising
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  • Marketplace
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  • Reviews
    • Books >
      • Advanced Rock Climbing Book Review
      • Adventures at the Edge of the World
      • Climbing Rock: Vertical Explorations Across North America
      • Hangdog Days Book Review
      • Hooking Up: The Ultimate Big Wall and Climbing Guide
      • Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss
      • The Sharp End of Life: A Mother's Story - Book Review
    • Equipment/Gear Reviews >
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        • Edelrid Mega Jul
      • Harnesses >
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        • Misty Mountain Cadillac
      • Packs and Bags >
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    • Location Reviews >
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          • Kangaroo Point Photos and Beta
          • Kangaroo Point Review
        • New South Wales Australia >
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            • Blue Mountains Photos and Beta
            • Blue Mountains Review
          • Nowra >
            • Nowra Review >
              • Nowra Photos and Beta
      • Mexico >
        • Potrero Chico Photos and Beta
        • Potrero Chico Review
      • United States >
        • Climbing Area Check List - U.S. >
          • Climbing Area Check List Part 1: Alabama to California
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 2: Colorado to Michigan
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 3: Minnesota to New Mexico
          • Climbing Area Checklist Part 4: New York to Wyoming
        • Arizona >
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            • City of Rocks Review
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            • Smith Rock - Photos and Beta
            • Smith Rock Review
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            • Trout Creek Review
        • Nevada >
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        • New Hampshire >
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        • New York >
          • Gunks Review
        • Utah >
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          • Ferguson Canyon >
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            • Ferguson Canyon Review
          • Ibex >
            • Ibex Photos and Beta
            • Ibex Review
          • Maple Canyon >
            • Maple Canyon, Utah Photos and Beta
            • Maple Canyon Review
          • Moab >
            • Moab - Main - Photos and Beta
            • Moab -Main - Review
          • St. George >
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall- Photos and Beta
            • St. George - Prophesy Wall - Review
        • West Virginia >
          • Seneca Rocks
        • Wyoming >
          • Ten Sleep
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