Welcome to the May/June 2022 edition of Common Climber!
Featured Photographer:
Eson Zhao
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This editions's Featured Photographer is Eson Zhao, who grew up in Hong Kong and China and has lived in Sydney, Australia for 12 years. Eson takes us on a photo tour of some Sydney-area climbing and beyond, and in his interview shares his photographic style and what makes him tick.
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Tribute
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Early to Rock: A Tribute to David Roots
July 14, 1931 to December 15, 2021 (By Keith Bell) David Roots, an Australian climbing legend has passed. Long-time Aussie climber and first ascentionist Keith Bell shares a wonderful tribute to David, who was one of New South Wales' foremost climbers to emerge in the 1950's post-war period. David Roots was part of the era were climbs were done, but not recorded, so many of his first ascents are lost to time. But there are some notable first ascents that did make it to the books including The Breadknife, The Mantleshelf, and Fuddy Duddy, as well as Balls Pyramid along with a few more you might recognize and have climbed yourself. In this tribute, Keith takes on a few of these climbs, with some funny stories thrown in between. |
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Editorial
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Older and younger... the beauty about Common Climber is that we represent the spectrum of ages and climbing experiences, because that is what makes up this world-wide motley crew.
We have those that laid down the paths years ago, enabling the rest of us to experience it as we grow in our own personal climbing journey. And then, there are always new climbing paths being forged - both personally and in our greater climbing community. The May/June 2022 edition reflects this spectrum beautifully. We have two truly special pieces embracing those that "came before" - a wonderful tribute to the recently deceased Aussie climbing legend David Roots - Do the climbs Mantleshelf and Fuddy Duddy ring any bells? - and a 50-year reflective memior of the mega-classic climb Ozymandias Direct by first ascentionist Geoffry Gledhill. It is an honor to have these stories grace our pages! We also have a laugh-out-loud, larger-than-life, almost unbelievable story by legendary Texas climber James Crump. All I can say is it involves "climbing pot pipes," cops, and an incident with a hanglider. OMG. Then we jump to the other end of our spectrum - five young(er) climbers sharing their adventures - one showing us his climbing world through his photos (Featured Photographer Eson Zhao), another reflecting upon the magic of the remote Moonarie area in Australia, and the third reflecting upon how climbing impacts his perceptions of the world. Our other two "younger climbers" are creating new things in the world of climbing - a climbing card game to help us keep "climbing" on those rest days and learn about some of Australia's classic climbs and the other forging new ground in climbing rope manufacturing through his new Arkansas-based business Lacaida Ropes. If you don't think there are any innovations left for climbing ropes, you'd be wrong. |
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I Lastly, I share some of my middle-aged climbing "wisdom" with a new YouTube video on what and how to pack for multipitch climbs - including some female-specific tips. The video describes what to consider when you are on a climb that begins and ends at the same spot, versus climbs that begin and end in different spots. Naturally we find our own "grooves" for these types of things, but I remember that when I was a newer climber I was hungry for information. I was curious about multi-pitch climbing, but also nervous. I wanted to "do it right." Although there are multiple ways to "do it right," there are also some critical safety considerations when hopping on a multipitch. Packing the proper materials can mean the difference between a great day and an "epic." It is my hope this video - and edition - helps others take one more step in their next climbing journey.
Enjoy!
- Stef
Stefani Dawn
Editor, Common Climber
Enjoy!
- Stef
Stefani Dawn
Editor, Common Climber
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Legendary Stories
The Hangglider Incident
(By James Crump) Climbing pot-pipes? Cops? Hanggliders? Texas climbing legend James Crump tells a tale like no other. This story is no exception. Be ready to laugh - and be shocked - in disbelief as this larger-than-life Texas climbing tale unfolds. |
Ozymandias Direct - Fifty Years of Fun and Games (A Memoir by First Ascentionist Geoffry Gledhill)
Common Climber is honored to have this special 50-year memoir by first ascentionist Geoffrey Gledhill of the mega classic Aussie climb Ozymandias Direct. Geoffrey takes us through his experience on the first ascent, his 25th anniversary ascent, his thoughts on freeing the climb, and his subsequent repeats - including 50 years later. |
Stories
Climbing Through Life
(By Nick Ducker) "This utterly arbitrary pursuit of getting one's physical being from point A to point B, in maybe the most difficult manner possible, has continued to have a profound impact on how I perceive my experience in this world. It has also accompanied me through and contributed directly to some of the most definitive moments of my life." |
Moonarie
(By Caleb Skirrow) Caleb Skirrow, a 20-year-old University student from Adelaide, Australia, shares his magical climbing experiences in the remote trad climbing area in Australia, Moonarie. |
Rock Stack
(By John Morris) The lockdowns of Covid spurred a lot of creativity, especially for climbers wanting to get on the rock but were unable. John Morris took this time to develop a rock climbing card-game that takes climbers up some of Australia's popular and classic climbs. Learn more about the game! |
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Marketplace - Lacaida Ropes
Interviews of small climbing-related business owners
Each owner has something unique and interesting to say...
Each owner has something unique and interesting to say...
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Climbing ropes have gone through their innovations - like becoming dynamic, bi-pattern, and dry coated - but what's next?
A brand new rope company based out of Arkansas (U.S.A.) called Lacaida is setting itself apart with an innovation called Metered Rope. Check out this Common Climber interview of owner and creator Pedro Somarriba, who gives us a background of his experience running a business, where he got this idea, and when these new ropes will be released. |
Common Climber YouTube - GEAR
What should you bring on a multipitch climb and what are the best size and styles of packs to use?
Watch this video to find out. This video discusses two different scenarios for multipitch climbs and how the packs you choose will differ for each scenario:
Watch this video to find out. This video discusses two different scenarios for multipitch climbs and how the packs you choose will differ for each scenario:
- starting and ending at the same spot for the climb
- starting and ending at different spots (i.e. a walk-off that does not return to the base)
Items shown in video (and used for real by real climbers!)
Common Climber is an all-volunteer resource.We use Amazon Affiliate links to help cover basic costs. Using these links helps keep Common Climber going! Thank you!
- Mystery Ranch Skyline 23L Climbing Pack
- Mystery Ranch Skyline 17L Climbing Pack
- Mystery Ranch Tower 47 Climbing Pack
- Black Diamond Creek 50L Climbing Pack
- Wynex Tactical Phone Pouch
- CamelBak L.U.X.E. Pack
- Osprey Hydration Bladder
- Rocky Talkie radios (not an affiliate link, but these are truly awesome radios)
Common Climber is an all-volunteer resource.We use Amazon Affiliate links to help cover basic costs. Using these links helps keep Common Climber going! Thank you!
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