The ground rules for climbing location "yeahs" and "neahs"
Summary
Moab is iconic. Located in the southeastern corner of Utah, its desert landscape boasts the bright red sandstone rock that forms canyons, towers, and slabby cliffs that invite climbing, hiking, photography, slick-rock bike tours, and 4x4 off-roading. The town of Moab is hipster cute and too busy for its own good.
Located about 3.5 hours from Salt Lake City and less than 2 hours from Grand Junction, CO, it takes some effort to get to Moab, but that does not seem to stop anyone. No doubt, Moab is neat and has some cool climbing, but its overcrowding ranges from distracting to downright frustrating, impacting camping, solitude, access, and traffic.
This review covers three primary climbing areas nearest to the town of Moab – Potash Road (route 279, which includes Wall Street), Kane Springs Canyon (which includes the Ice Cream Parlor), and Dead Horse Scenic Mesa Byway (route 313). In general, these areas share similarities in rock, type and style of climbing, and easy access. Short, easy approaches are one major plus to climbing here. In fact, one very hot summer day, when Wall Street was actually empty, we belayed from beneath the shade of our camper awning.
If you seek a little less crowd and loud traffic, Route 313 climbs are the way to go. There are fewer climbs out here and the rock a bit less solid, but multiple new routes have been put up here recently making it a worthy exploration to avoid the crowds. Check Tony Calderone’s Rakkup Guide and Mountain project for the most up-to-date listing of routes. Note, there are a few unknown routes on cool-looking hueco-studded rock on the north side of route 313, but these are really, really sketchy (refer to the Moab Beta and Photos page for pictures). The rock in this abandoned attempt at a crag is quite soft and there is an odd mix of "bolting" and natural protection with old webbing. Climbing this area was more freaky than fun. But, a little stroll to the north, there are several easy newly bolted slab climbs worth a go.
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
Sandstone, sandstone, and more sandstone – this is the predominant type of rock in Moab (remember, do not climb on sandstone until 24-48 hours after a rain). Although you could attempt to eek out similarities to Red Rock Canyon Nevada (the other sandstone mecca), the two are different. Generally Moab sandstone is softer and consistently slabbier compared to Red Rock. In some areas like Wall Street, you can find some technical face climbing options, but crack and slab tend to be the game here. These are not the pure single-size splitter cracks made so famous by Indian Creek (located just down the street and not included in this review), rather, the cracks are variable in size and quality.
Although you can find a few multi-pitch climbs on surrounding desert towers and bluffs, many of the climbs in Moab are single pitch. This is because the quality of sandstone on the larger walls can vary significantly or can lack any features that invite climbing (i.e. a blank face). Be aware that numerous climbs, particularly on the desert towers near Arches National Park (which is not reviewed here), have sections of aid climbing.
Indian Creek and Arches National Park areas are excluded from this review because these areas have their own unique attributes for climbing, access, and camping, and are far enough from the town of Moab, to merit their own review.
Grading, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
Both trad and bolted sport climbs can be found in Moab. Grading can be variable, with some climbs feeling on the easier side and others feeling slightly sandbagged. The difficulty level of a climb can also be style-dependent. For example, if you are less comfortable with slab, a slab-dominant route will feel more difficult. It is not always obvious from the ground whether a climb will be predominantly slab or end up having some sweet little features that make it a bit more “facey-technical” than “slab.” I find Moab climbing to be a bit of a “surprise” mixed bag. You hop on a route and take whatever you are dished.
Bolting can also be variable here, with some climbs being well protected and others with run-out and decking potential. Read the Mountain Project comments and guidebook descriptions to obtain beta for a climb. Also be sure to use your eyes to help determine if the bolting is run-out or has decking (ground-fall) potential (see the article “Bolting and Ground-fall Potential” to learn how to visually determine whether a climb is poorly protected.)
There are multiple climbing guide resources for Moab (listed in alphabetical order):
Camping
There are multiple, small camping areas along the length of Route 279 (Potash Road) before it turns into a dirt road near the mine. The lower part of the canyon is very narrow with the campgrounds squeezed into the only available dry flat land between the sandstone wall, the road, and the Colorado River. Some campgrounds have small amounts of trees and vegetation to provide protection from the sun, other grounds are nothing short of a bake-fest. But, the popular nature of the area often means beggars can’t be choosers. If you find a site, grab it before someone else does.
Although the area itself is quite pretty, the following are general characteristics of the camping along route 279:
Campgrounds along 279 include:
The one primary advantage to camping along 279 is the quick and easy access to Wall Street.
There is also camping directly across the river off Moab Kane Creek Access Road:
Compared to Potash Road (279), Kane Creek Road is a little less narrow and you are spared the mining truck traffic. But there is still plenty of traffic to contend with, including many loud ATVs ripping along the road, across the landscape, and through some of the campgrounds. Although there are some lovely Riparian trees and bushes, vegetation adjacent to camping is more sparse compared to Potash Road.
If you plan to frequent places like the Ice Cream Parlor in Kane Springs/Hunter Canyon area, this side of the river provides easier access. To get to Wall Street from here, you have to drive all the way back out to 191, going through Moab, to route 279. Frankly it is a pain in the ass to get over to Kane Creek, particularly because the traffic in Moab can be hell. But there is some great climbing.
Directions
From Salt Lake:
Yeahs
Neahs
Opinion Rating
People rave about Moab. There are certainly features to rave about and there are super fun, easily accessible climbs. But it is also over-run, used, and abused. So, I struggle with how to rate it. One side of me wants to give it a “worth it” rating because there are attributes that are definitely “worth it.” Another side of me wants to give it a “Meh” rating because the “neahs” are significant and, quite frankly, affect the entire experience. I also don't want to elevate a rating because of an area’s iconic status. I think if the area was far less crowded, I would rate it as “worth it,” but because I find myself cringing when someone suggests going to Moab, I have to give it a “Meh.”
Meh
- Each location will receive an opinion rating - "It Rocks!", "Worth It," "Meh," or "Trash."
- Each crag has its own personality with unique advantages and challenges, which are highlighted.
- It is tempting to list “beautiful” as a “yeah,” but that is true for a lot of crags. I allude to beauty and scenery in the summary. You can also (sometimes) tell by the photo. If the place is a dump, then that will be listed in the “neahs” and rated as "Meh" or "Trash.
Summary
Moab is iconic. Located in the southeastern corner of Utah, its desert landscape boasts the bright red sandstone rock that forms canyons, towers, and slabby cliffs that invite climbing, hiking, photography, slick-rock bike tours, and 4x4 off-roading. The town of Moab is hipster cute and too busy for its own good.
Located about 3.5 hours from Salt Lake City and less than 2 hours from Grand Junction, CO, it takes some effort to get to Moab, but that does not seem to stop anyone. No doubt, Moab is neat and has some cool climbing, but its overcrowding ranges from distracting to downright frustrating, impacting camping, solitude, access, and traffic.
This review covers three primary climbing areas nearest to the town of Moab – Potash Road (route 279, which includes Wall Street), Kane Springs Canyon (which includes the Ice Cream Parlor), and Dead Horse Scenic Mesa Byway (route 313). In general, these areas share similarities in rock, type and style of climbing, and easy access. Short, easy approaches are one major plus to climbing here. In fact, one very hot summer day, when Wall Street was actually empty, we belayed from beneath the shade of our camper awning.
If you seek a little less crowd and loud traffic, Route 313 climbs are the way to go. There are fewer climbs out here and the rock a bit less solid, but multiple new routes have been put up here recently making it a worthy exploration to avoid the crowds. Check Tony Calderone’s Rakkup Guide and Mountain project for the most up-to-date listing of routes. Note, there are a few unknown routes on cool-looking hueco-studded rock on the north side of route 313, but these are really, really sketchy (refer to the Moab Beta and Photos page for pictures). The rock in this abandoned attempt at a crag is quite soft and there is an odd mix of "bolting" and natural protection with old webbing. Climbing this area was more freaky than fun. But, a little stroll to the north, there are several easy newly bolted slab climbs worth a go.
Rock Type, Climbing, and Style
Sandstone, sandstone, and more sandstone – this is the predominant type of rock in Moab (remember, do not climb on sandstone until 24-48 hours after a rain). Although you could attempt to eek out similarities to Red Rock Canyon Nevada (the other sandstone mecca), the two are different. Generally Moab sandstone is softer and consistently slabbier compared to Red Rock. In some areas like Wall Street, you can find some technical face climbing options, but crack and slab tend to be the game here. These are not the pure single-size splitter cracks made so famous by Indian Creek (located just down the street and not included in this review), rather, the cracks are variable in size and quality.
Although you can find a few multi-pitch climbs on surrounding desert towers and bluffs, many of the climbs in Moab are single pitch. This is because the quality of sandstone on the larger walls can vary significantly or can lack any features that invite climbing (i.e. a blank face). Be aware that numerous climbs, particularly on the desert towers near Arches National Park (which is not reviewed here), have sections of aid climbing.
Indian Creek and Arches National Park areas are excluded from this review because these areas have their own unique attributes for climbing, access, and camping, and are far enough from the town of Moab, to merit their own review.
Grading, Boltings, and Guidebook Tips
Both trad and bolted sport climbs can be found in Moab. Grading can be variable, with some climbs feeling on the easier side and others feeling slightly sandbagged. The difficulty level of a climb can also be style-dependent. For example, if you are less comfortable with slab, a slab-dominant route will feel more difficult. It is not always obvious from the ground whether a climb will be predominantly slab or end up having some sweet little features that make it a bit more “facey-technical” than “slab.” I find Moab climbing to be a bit of a “surprise” mixed bag. You hop on a route and take whatever you are dished.
Bolting can also be variable here, with some climbs being well protected and others with run-out and decking potential. Read the Mountain Project comments and guidebook descriptions to obtain beta for a climb. Also be sure to use your eyes to help determine if the bolting is run-out or has decking (ground-fall) potential (see the article “Bolting and Ground-fall Potential” to learn how to visually determine whether a climb is poorly protected.)
There are multiple climbing guide resources for Moab (listed in alphabetical order):
- Moab Rock Climbing by Tony Calderone (Mountain Dreamer Press) (2016)
- Electronic Rakkup Guide
- Print Guide - As of this posting, the Moab Rock Climbing print guide is sold out, but a link to the website is provided for future reference.
- Electronic Rakkup Guide
- Mountain Project - Moab
- Rock Climbing Desert Rock III: Moab to Colorado National Monument by Eric Bjornstad (A Falcon Guide) (1999)
- Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart M. Green (A Falcon Guide) (2012)
- Wall Street Rock Climbing by Tony Calderone (2014)
Camping
There are multiple, small camping areas along the length of Route 279 (Potash Road) before it turns into a dirt road near the mine. The lower part of the canyon is very narrow with the campgrounds squeezed into the only available dry flat land between the sandstone wall, the road, and the Colorado River. Some campgrounds have small amounts of trees and vegetation to provide protection from the sun, other grounds are nothing short of a bake-fest. But, the popular nature of the area often means beggars can’t be choosers. If you find a site, grab it before someone else does.
Although the area itself is quite pretty, the following are general characteristics of the camping along route 279:
- lots of people crammed into small spaces (which sometimes results in partying until wee-hours of the morning accompanied by others yelling “shut the f* up” across the campground).
- limited parking
- tons of road noise – all night long – including huge mining trucks barreling down the narrow road at all hours. Bring earplugs AND noise cancelling headphones if you want to get any sleep.
Campgrounds along 279 include:
- Jaycee - Has 7 first-come, walk-in sites.
- William’s Bottom - First-come, no reservations. There may be room for small campers or RVs here, but it is still a small campground.
- Gold Bar - This campground is larger and can accommodate RVs/campers. It also has group sites and you can reserve online.
The one primary advantage to camping along 279 is the quick and easy access to Wall Street.
There is also camping directly across the river off Moab Kane Creek Access Road:
- Kane Springs campground tent and RV - This is a larger, open, commercially run campground.
- Moonflower Canyon – A very small, BLM, walk-in, first-come-first served campground.
- Kings Bottom - Another first-come-first served BLM campground.
Compared to Potash Road (279), Kane Creek Road is a little less narrow and you are spared the mining truck traffic. But there is still plenty of traffic to contend with, including many loud ATVs ripping along the road, across the landscape, and through some of the campgrounds. Although there are some lovely Riparian trees and bushes, vegetation adjacent to camping is more sparse compared to Potash Road.
If you plan to frequent places like the Ice Cream Parlor in Kane Springs/Hunter Canyon area, this side of the river provides easier access. To get to Wall Street from here, you have to drive all the way back out to 191, going through Moab, to route 279. Frankly it is a pain in the ass to get over to Kane Creek, particularly because the traffic in Moab can be hell. But there is some great climbing.
Directions
From Salt Lake:
- Take I-15 south to Spanish Fork. Exit to HWY 89, following it southeast to HWY 6, then HWY 191. At Green River, take I-70 E to Crescent Junction, where you will return to HWY 191, heading south to Moab.
- If you want to get to Wall Street or the camping areas off Potash Road from this direction, then you will turn west off 191 onto 279 (Potash Rd) BEFORE you enter Moab. There is an old contaminated EPA remediation site that looks like a dump near where you turn.
- To get to Kane Springs Road you have to go through Moab. From 191 (also called Main Street) turn W onto Center Street. Then turn right (north) onto N100W. At the 2nd left you will turn west onto Williams Way. Follow Williams until it ends at S500W, which ends at Kane Creek Blvd. Turn right onto Kane Creek Blvd. Kane Creek will run along the river, which is where the campgrounds are located along this stretch of road.
Yeahs
- Short, easy approaches.
- Interesting and varied climbing is available, but be aware that slab is predominant.
- Trad and bolted sport climbs are available.
Neahs
- Crowds, crowds, and more crowds (except in the inferno heat of summer)
- Noise, noise, and more noise. It is an unsettling juxtaposition to be surrounded by what looks like wilderness beauty but then be almost constantly disrupted by the noise of ATVs, automobiles, and mining trucks. On busy weekends during peak season, this is not a minor disruption. It is constant.
- Traffic, traffic, and more traffic. The traffic backed up on Route 191 into the town of Moab can add upwards of 30 minutes to 1 hour of travel time. No kidding. It is a big-city style traffic jam in the middle of the desert.
- Over-climbed. Features of routes have been broken off or rubbed smooth from over-climbing such that that it may no longer be the climb described in a guidebook. Oh well, just look at it as a new climb and maybe a little harder than the original grade. Top roping has etched deep grooves in the rock along the most popular areas like Wall Street. I struggle with this because top-roping is fun, but it is difficult to see how the rock has been significantly altered as a result of being over-loved.
- Run-out bolting in places, but, for the most part bolting is well-protected.
- Multi-pitch options are few
- Camping is cramped and next to busy roads
Opinion Rating
People rave about Moab. There are certainly features to rave about and there are super fun, easily accessible climbs. But it is also over-run, used, and abused. So, I struggle with how to rate it. One side of me wants to give it a “worth it” rating because there are attributes that are definitely “worth it.” Another side of me wants to give it a “Meh” rating because the “neahs” are significant and, quite frankly, affect the entire experience. I also don't want to elevate a rating because of an area’s iconic status. I think if the area was far less crowded, I would rate it as “worth it,” but because I find myself cringing when someone suggests going to Moab, I have to give it a “Meh.”
Meh
