Common Climber interviews Dario Piana, the President and CEO of Acopa Outdoors, Inc. This interview is part of Common Climber's small business Marketplace where we connect you with the owners and creators of climbing-related small businesses. Acopa's story is one of resilience and is highlighted in our special themed edition on "Overcoming Adversity." Read on to learn more about Acopa's unique story.
President and CEO of Acopa Outdoors, Dario Piana
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Introduction
Acopa, which means "up" in the Aztec language Náhuatl, has a long and unique history - one of vision and survival. Acopa was originally founded in 1997 by two rock climbers (Ernesto Vazquez and Dario Piana) in Guadalajara, Mexico. Not only was Ernesto a climber, but he was making his own climbing shoes. The two friends decided to join together to share these shoes with the world.
In 2003 legendary climber John Bachar (JB) joined the team as an Acopa USA founding member and greatly influenced the underlying concept for Acopa climbing shoes - performance AND comfort. JB believed that a climbing shoe should conform to the feet and not the other way around. JB played a central role in designing, selecting materials for, and testing the shoes under rigorous conditions (difficult climbs, long climbing days, and a variety of rock types.)
In 2006, 2007, and 2009 Acopa was struck with three back-to-back tragedies. On August 13, 2006 JB and Acopa USA co-founder Steve Allan Karafa, Jr. and John Bachar (JB) were in a serious car accident. JB was in critical condition and Steve lost his life at the age of 40. Steve's death left Dario and JB as the two remaining co-founders of Acopa USA. Then in 2007, one of Acopa's star athletes and JB's good friend, was struck by a rogue wave and disappeared. The final blow happened in July 2009 when John Bachar fell to his death while free soling near Mammoth Lakes, California.
JB was not only Dario's business partner, they were the best of friends. The loss was too devastating and Acopa was closed in 2010.
In 2003 legendary climber John Bachar (JB) joined the team as an Acopa USA founding member and greatly influenced the underlying concept for Acopa climbing shoes - performance AND comfort. JB believed that a climbing shoe should conform to the feet and not the other way around. JB played a central role in designing, selecting materials for, and testing the shoes under rigorous conditions (difficult climbs, long climbing days, and a variety of rock types.)
In 2006, 2007, and 2009 Acopa was struck with three back-to-back tragedies. On August 13, 2006 JB and Acopa USA co-founder Steve Allan Karafa, Jr. and John Bachar (JB) were in a serious car accident. JB was in critical condition and Steve lost his life at the age of 40. Steve's death left Dario and JB as the two remaining co-founders of Acopa USA. Then in 2007, one of Acopa's star athletes and JB's good friend, was struck by a rogue wave and disappeared. The final blow happened in July 2009 when John Bachar fell to his death while free soling near Mammoth Lakes, California.
JB was not only Dario's business partner, they were the best of friends. The loss was too devastating and Acopa was closed in 2010.
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Over the years Ernesto and Dario kept seeing social media posts and receiving emails about how people love their Acopa shoes and wished they could buy more. They sensed that, even after all these years, there was still a dedicated following. Then Adrián Haro and Fredy Girón approached the original Acopa team with a proposal to revive the company, which they did in 2018. In 2020 - just before COVID hit - Acopa USA was re-launched. It’s not an understatement to say that the Acopa team is a close-knit "family" with a vision and passion for seeing Acopa bring its comfortable and precise climbing shoe back onto climber's feet.
COVID hit the climbing industry hard. With climbing gyms shut down and climbers not travelling - or even climbing at all - Acopa unexpectedly faced the expenses and challenges of getting a "new" brand off the ground during the pandemic. Now, they are hitting the rock running and demonstrating that "Acopa" or "up" doesn't just pertain to climbers doing their thing, it also represents their story of "falling" and "persisting" to get the hard send. Here, as part of the Common Climber Marketplace, we interview one of Acopa's original founders to bring more of this amazing story to light - like, for example, did you know that the Acopa high top shoe preceded the TC Pro? Read on! |
Dario Piana climbing "The Comp" in Joshua Tree, California
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Interview
Going back to the beginning. Why did you and Ernesto decide to make your own climbing shoes?
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When I first started climbing around 1993, I had a real problem with how uncomfortable most climbing shoes were. I tried every model I could get my hands on and couldn’t find one that fit comfortably. Back then, it was generally accepted that high quality climbing shoes would be super uncomfortable and very expensive and many people shied away from climbing simply because of that.
Then, I came across a pair of no-brand, locally made shoes here in Guadalajara. They were the first pair of comfortable climbing shoes I had ever tried, so I bought them on the spot. Then I went climbing in them. They were so comfortable I noticed my footwork started improving immediately. I could climb better simply because my shoes fit better. When I wore those out and went looking for a new pair, I found they were out of stock. I eventually tracked down the shoemaker and found Ernesto. As it turned out, he started making his own shoes at home about a year earlier - also frustrated by how uncomfortable and expensive climbing shoes were. Being the gifted craftsman he is, rather than just get frustrated, he decided to just make his own shoes. |
Ernesto Vazquez (left) and Dario Piana (right) are the founders of Acopa and are still part of the company today. This photo was taken in the early 2000s when Acopa was born in the crafts-town of Guadalajara, Mexico.
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I was amazed that a fellow climber was making climbing shoes of such high quality. I thought that, if more people got a chance to try them, they could climb better too. So, in 1995, I proposed we partner up and go into business making climbing shoes. As climbers, we weren’t really willing to accept shoes that fit poorly, so we thought we could do something about it. We spent about a year and a half doing research and development. Then, in 1997, we launched Acopa in Mexico.
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What was Ernesto's history of being a cobbler?
Ernesto had not been a cobbler before he started making climbing shoes. He’s just a truly gifted craftsman. He had experience in woodworking and furniture manufacturing, so when he decided to build a pair of climbing shoes, he approached it as if he were going to upholster a foot. That way of looking at it actually resulted in a much more comfortable shoe.
You all have your own rubber, RS. Tell us more about that history and how it evolved into the rubber you use today.
As climbers, we understand the importance of having the best rubber. Most of the time, the rubber is the only part of your shoes contacting the rock.
Acopa RS is the same rubber we used originally. Our customers demanded we bring it back. It’s preferred by many climbers over all other rubbers and it´s only available on Acopa shoes. Since then, we’ve also introduced RS II, specially formulated to withstand indoor climbing. |
Ernest Vasquez working on one of the Acopa shoes.
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You all have a re-soling service that uses your own proprietary rubber. What are the advantages of having your shoe resoled by the factory?
There are many advantages.
Getting your shoes resoled at the Acopa factory guarantees a high-quality job. It guarantees that your shoes will retain their original shape, since they will be resoled on the original lasts. This helps maintain fit, comfort and performance for the life of the shoe. We also spot and fix other minor problems. For example, if your laces are torn up, we can replace those with new, identical laces. |
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Back in 2003 John Bachar joined your company and it expanded into the U.S. What shoe models were born when Bachar arrived and how did the shoe making process change for you all?
The first group of models we developed with John were the Aztec, Aurora, Chameleon, B3, Sidewinder, and Underdog.
Our product design and development processes changed significantly. There were many things John wanted to do and had been unable to do until then. As climbers, we understood what he was trying to do, and it inspired us. We happily took on every challenge until it was done. Having John as part of the team energized everyone and put us in high gear. It all became part of the Acopa culture over the years.
Our product design and development processes changed significantly. There were many things John wanted to do and had been unable to do until then. As climbers, we understood what he was trying to do, and it inspired us. We happily took on every challenge until it was done. Having John as part of the team energized everyone and put us in high gear. It all became part of the Acopa culture over the years.
(From left to right) Ernesto Vasquez, John Bachar, and Dario Piana.
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John Bachar was know for free soling. Here is John soloing at the Owens River Gorge, California, wearing a pair of Acopa Merlins that he helped design.
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With the re-launch of Acopa, you have some of the original designs. Tell us about those original designs, what you kept and why?
Climbers had been asking us to bring back certain models for some time. We knew we could bring them up to date while keeping the features they knew and loved. So that’s what we set out to do with our 2020 line. The Aztec, JB, B3, Enzo, Chameleon, Legend and Merlin are all updated versions of our original designs.
Hover over above photos to see captions. Click to take you to the Acopa website. All of the above models are made from leather and use the original Acopa RS Rubber, which is designed for sticking to the rock.
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The TC in TC Pros stands for Tommy Caldwell and the JBs in your hightop trad shoe stands for John Bachar. The two shoes look similar, but the JBs were actually released before the TC Pros. What is the history of the JBs?
When we set out to develop the JB in 2004, we aimed to build a modern version of an old school, real-deal trad boot. We set a high bar. John had never put his name on any model, so we needed a shoe that would be worthy; one that could tackle any Yosemite big wall in comfort while offering the highest quality and performance.
It was quite a challenge, and it took a while, but we eventually knew we had it. At the time the JB was introduced in 2005, the TC Pro wasn't around and there really were no other good options for people looking to do multi-pitch, first ascents or offwidth, so the JB made quite a splash. It has since become one of our most popular models. |
The Acopa JB high top trad shoe was originally released in 2005 and received much love and critical acclaim amongst big wall climbers. Today's JB use the same last, designs, and original Acopa RS rubber.
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Chis Kalman climbing in Sedona, Arizona in the Acopa JB (Photo Credit: Rich Wheater)
How have you expanded your line of shoes and why?
Our line has grown to include models like the Shot, Fly and, most recently, the Gama. As climbing evolves, so do the needs and demands of climbers. New models are designed to respond to those evolving needs.
Hover over above photos to see captions. Click to take you to the Acopa website. All of the above models are made with synthetic uppers and the Acopa RS II rubber, which is designed to withstand the demands of the gym.
Bouldering in the Acopa Fly shoes. (Photo Credit: Diego Covarrubias)
Climbers have become so accustomed to associating "pain" with performance - especially aggressive shoes. How does your philosophy of comfort apply to more aggressive climbing shoes and how does it impact performance?
We believe you’ll climb better if your shoes are comfortable. Aggressive climbing shoes are no exception. Even high-performance shoes need not be painfully uncomfortable. Pain does not help your climbing.
The right shape for your foot will yield the highest performance and maximum comfort. People are often surprised to find that, once they find the right shape, they don’t have to upsize to be comfortable.
The right shape for your foot will yield the highest performance and maximum comfort. People are often surprised to find that, once they find the right shape, they don’t have to upsize to be comfortable.
Where are your shoes manufactured today? Why did you choose that location?
Our shoes have always been manufactured in Guadalajara, Mexico. Guadalajara is a 400+ year old modern city that has long been a center of manufacturing. Talented and skilled artisans of all kinds have always lived in Guadalajara, and shoe manufacturing has always been part of the local economy. It’s also surrounded by great, year-round climbing areas.
I believe you all are the first climbing shoe company (that I am aware of) to offer customization. What does customization mean? What can people customize?
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We’re really proud to be the first company doing this.
Until now, millions of climbers - all different individuals - have had only a few options to choose the right shoe for them. Sometimes, the best fitting shoe is not available in their preferred fitting system, material, or colors. Some would rather have leather; others want it leather-free. Some wish a certain model came in laces, or wish it was lined. Perhaps they love everything but the color. Customization means the ability to build shoes that better fulfill each climber´s individual needs and preferences. Acopa Custom Level 1 is the first step in that direction, and we are working on what comes next. Our Level 1 customization gives each climber the ability to select any of our models and have us build it in natural leather or synthetic material. They can choose the colors we use for the upper, the trim, the webbing pull-loops and, in some models, the rubber heel rand. They can choose whether they want it lined or unlined, as well as whether they want our original RS rubber or the new RS II. Being able to offer climbers customization options is something we have long wanted to do. We’re just getting started! |
Acopa is now offering customization - Choose your favorite materials, colors, rubber and other options. You can even see what they'll look like onscreen.
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In the introduction to this interview we talk about Acopa's history, why you all shut down back in 2010, and that you restarted right before COVID hit. Starting a business is challenging enough, then add in the COVID lockdowns and supply chain problems, how did this impact Acopa?
Fortunately, we had launched in Mexico in 2018, so we had a good team in place and had gathered some momentum. Still, Covid hitting right after our U.S. launch in January 2020 certainly made it more challenging. We had to cancel dozens of demos all over the U.S. and many stores and gyms had to shut down for quite a while. However, the response we received from climbers, many of whom had pre-ordered their shoes even before we launched, was amazing. When Covid hit, we braced for a terrible year. But thanks to them, it turned out quite well and it’s only getting better.
How have your previous years in business helped you in today's relaunch of Acopa?
Tremendously. There is no substitute for experience. Additionally, although Acopa was never a huge brand, we found that many climbers and mountain shop owners remembered us and have a positive opinion of our brand. Altogether, the years we were in business previously have made a huge difference.
I should also mention that Ernesto and I were joined in 2018 by two new founding partners, Fredy Girón and Adrián Haro. Both are also climbers, and their experience has been priceless. We make a great team.
I should also mention that Ernesto and I were joined in 2018 by two new founding partners, Fredy Girón and Adrián Haro. Both are also climbers, and their experience has been priceless. We make a great team.
Matt Larrain (IG: @n3rdly), an Acopa climbing ambassador, bouldering in a pair of JBs. (Photo Credit: Instagram Erika Moncada, IG: @erikalopolis )
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Matt Larrain climbing at Newspaper Rock State Historic Monument in a pair of the Acopa Legends. (Photo Credit: Michael Marshall)
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Now with the economy on the mend and people becoming more aware of your shoes, what are your plans and next steps?
We’re working on a few exciting projects. In 2022, we’ll be introducing a brand-new model, built on an entirely new last, the Vega. This will be a great model for bouldering and sport, indoors and out. We’ll keep developing our customization program. We’ve just added custom size options all the way up to size 20 US. At the opposite end of the spectrum, we’re also looking at designing a new version of our kids’ shoe, the Underdog. We’re always working on new ideas.
We’ll also be doing our Acopa Demo Tours for the third year in a row, bringing demos to locations all over the country so people can try on our shoes. This has been a very successful endeavor for us. We value and enjoy the chance to meet climbers and store owners, as well as to get out and climb.
We’ll also be doing our Acopa Demo Tours for the third year in a row, bringing demos to locations all over the country so people can try on our shoes. This has been a very successful endeavor for us. We value and enjoy the chance to meet climbers and store owners, as well as to get out and climb.
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There are quite a few different climbing shoe companies, how does Acopa navigate this and cut through all of the noise?
We know who we are and what we stand for. We stay true to our values and true to climbing. We stay true to certain principles, which allows us to innovate without losing our way. Experience builds confidence. A steady compass helps you get where you want to go.
What do you want climbers to know and remember about Acopa?
That we are a company of climbers. We focus on climbing and believe form follows function.
We´re always looking to innovate, but we´ll never bring you stuff that may look cool but doesn’t really work. We genuinely care about your shoes delivering the highest performance, offering the maximum comfort and being the best quality. We also strive to foster in new generations of climbers an appreciation for the adventure, the ethics, and the history of climbing. We feel it’s our unique opportunity and responsibility to do so. Any last words you would like to share with our readers?
Just thank you for the interview and thanks to your readers for checking us out, I hope they’ll keep us in mind next time they’re looking for climbing shoes. To those who already climb in Acopa, a special thanks. There is no higher honor than seeing other climbers put on a pair of Acopa shoes as they prepare to send their next route or problem.
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Pamela Pack jamming the off widths in a pair of Acopa Merlins. (Photo Credit: Matthew Tangeman, IG: @m.tangeman)
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