If you've ever read about Rand Abbott you'd learn that he is one of the few, if not the first, paraplegic adaptive lead aid climbers in the world who has put up hundreds of first ascents and first adaptive lead ascents. You'd also learn that he is a veteran who, after his spinal cord injury, struggled with suicide and advocates for suicide prevention. And, he loves dogs.
 
If you've dug a little deeper, you may have even heard Rand has developed unique adaptive climbing systems for himself and others with disabilities.
 
What you may not know though, is that since 2018 Rand has tried to become a guide through the leading guide certification organization AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association). Rand was nearly fully registered for an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) course, but once they learned of his disability, he was told no.

​Over the years, Rand has attempted to communicate and coordinate with the AMGA, as well as the Professional Climbing Guides Institute (PGCI), proposing to work with them to create the first official adaptive climbing guide certification (Rand has all of the systems developed.)

​Responses have ranged from non-existent, to no. Then, after much persistence and submission of letters to the AMGA from Rand and able-bodied AMGA certified guides, Rand received a vague but potentially promising response from the AMGA - "let's meet in the fall of 2023 and maybe develop a program in 2024."

Rand Abbott in Zion National Park. (Photo Credit: Stefani Dawn)

Bear in mind that Rand is not asking to become a full-blown Rock Guide, or even a stand-alone Single Pitch Instructor. First things first, he is simply asking them to allow him to attend the SPI course to both learn and demonstrate his chops.
 
But Rand is also hoping to go beyond that - offering these guide certification organizations a vision and a unique, experienced skill set that Rand has been developing since about 2011 - when he began climbing again after his spinal cord injury. Rand is offering to share his knowledge and experience as a lead adaptive climber to develop guidelines for how an SPI-certified guide could get additional training and support adaptive climbing clinics and/or safely guide people with disabilities, as well as develop processes and systems for an experienced climber that has a disability could also become a guide themselves (with specific guidelines and roles that would honor their disability.)​​

Rand Abbott lead aid climbing "Wanger Banger" (5.11c) Joshua Tree National Park, California. (Photo Credit: Rand Abbott collection)

Rand Abbott lead aid climbing in Zion National Park (Photo Credit: Joe Martin)

Rand recognizes and proposes that adaptive-specific guidelines could be established, like having an "able-bodied" certified guide on-site to support trainings as needed, such as setting up anchors in certain conditions, conducting rescues, and physically supporting the client in ways that a wheel-chair bound guide might not be able to readily do.
 
What would a certified adaptive guide do then? The most important things - set up and safely teach adaptive systems and adaptive climbing basics, lead by example, be a mentor, and provide irreplaceable support to a climber with a disability. There is absolutely no substitute for "I've been there."
 
So, why not just have an experienced adaptive climber present? Why does it need to be a certified guide?

Because not having a formal certification process is disrespectful to everyone involved. It devalues the experienced climber with a disability, as well as, devalues the new climber with a disability. Not only does a formal certification set minimum criteria and safety standards, it says "you are NOT less than."

​As Erik Kramer-Webb, co-owner of California Climbing School and a certified Rock Guide Instructor, said in his letter to the AMGA advocating for Rand's entry into the guiding world and a new adaptive guiding certification, "It is just as important to have an adaptive guide teaching adaptive climbing as it is having a woman leading a women's climbing event, or having a person of color teaching a BIPOC climbing event, or having a queer person teaching climbing at an LGBTQ+ event.  It's important because we, as able-bodied people, just don't get what it is like to have a disability, and we never will. In a similar vein, as a white person I will never understand what it is like to be a black person, as a man I will never understand what it is like to be a woman, and as a straight person I will never understand what it is like to be queer."

​As a climbing community we are (finally) moving forward to recognize the need for representation in guiding and leadership positions, but people with disabilities are the last frontier.
 
In addition to providing representation and some basic safety and process standards, an adaptive climbing certification would also address the following significant gaps:

​(1) Certified guides, as their training stands, have no true idea how to adapt should they get a client with a disability. So, they are either forced to say no to a potential client or provide a very limited, or potentially unsafe, service.

Erik Kramer Webb, co-owner of the California Climbing School, fist bumps Tionna Edwards who has a below-the-knee amputation. Tionna catered the food at the Adaptive Climbing Clinic. Climbing guide Ting Chin sit's behind. (Photo Credit: Stefani Dawn)

(2) According to the CDC, there are 61 million adults with disabilities in the United States alone - this doesn't even include children. Some of these people may actually want to learn how to be independent climbers, or even teach others to climb. To that end, any one of us can become disabled in an instant, thereby changing our personal relationship and trajectory for climbing for the rest of our lives.

Without having a formal adaptive climbing certification, there is limited adaptive climbing support and resources, and no formal, agreed-upon mechanism for training. It is left up to non-profit organizations, like the Adaptive Climbing Group (established in 2012) and Paradox Sports (established in 2007) to provide "experiences" for climber's with disabilities.
 
These resources are valuable and have connected adaptive athletes with climbing all over the U.S. The Adaptive Climbing Group states they are "the largest national adaptive climbing program in the United States with over 1000 participants annually." And, according to Paradox Sports' 2022 annual report, they delivered 16 adaptive climbing initiative courses with over 175 hours of training to more than 210 volunteers and climbing facilitators across 14 states. They also hosted adaptive climbing meet-ups at gyms at various locations across the U.S.
 
However, the need is much larger than available resources, and there is also a unique need - independence.
 
Rand has a vision to help fill the gap.

Rand's Climbing History

Rand began climbing in the late 1970s while in the military, exploring and climbing in places like Okinawa, mainland Japan, Korea, Thailand, and the U.S. In 2008 he became paralyzed and was hospital-bound for over two years.

​Like many whose soul has been captured by climbing, Rand needed it in his life. In fact, climbing was one of the major motivators to get out of that hospital and become fully independent again. But it wasn't just any climbing Rand desired; He needed to be back outside and on the sharp end again.

In 2014 Rand Abbott began lead climbing again. When he was high up on the rock on the sharp end of the rope, he looked down and saw his wheelchair. He felt free. (Photo credit: Stefani Dawn)

Upon immediately leaving the hospital in early 2011, Rand began the journey of inquiry, experimentation, and re-learning how to climb. This began by developing his own t-bar system, working with a gym to put up a permanent static line, jugging, and regaining strength. In 2014 Rand began lead climbing again. ​

Rand's new climbing journey included not only how to get into and out of a harness, but also how to get up the wall by placing gear and aiding up. With aiding, climbers usually pound a piton or place a piece of gear onto or into the rock, connect an aid ladder, step up, then reach to place the next piece.

​But when your legs don't work, how do you pull yourself up safely, efficiently, and not lose "ground"? What are the best pieces of gear to use (ascenders? Microtraxions? GriGri? Petzl Croll?  Petz Shunt? Ropeman, Revol? Yates adjustable daisy? All of the above or something else?) How do you efficiently and safely connect and disconnect yourself for the next move? When pull-ups are your only option and you don't have a full-body length to work with, what happens when the wall goes blank, or when there is a bolted aid ladder but you can't reach the next bolt?

Rand Abbott checking his gear before climbing in Zion National Park (Photo Credit: Joe Martin)

Rand Abbott demonstrating one of his gear systems for adaptive climbing. (Photo Credit: Stefani Dawn)

These aren't the only considerations when learning to lead climb as a paraplegic. How do you protect the parts of the body you can't feel?

Circulation is often poor in these areas and injuries take much longer to heal and can cause significant medical complications. Or, what if the harness or bunched clothing restricts circulation and the climber needs to quickly get horizontal? What about managing things like catheters, colostomy bags, or bowel control?
 
The complexities are significant, but not insurmountable, and they certainly should not stop someone from climbing.

​Over the years Rand has developed the specialized techniques and uses them multiple days per week when lead climbing single and multipitch climbs. He has also applied his extensive knowledge to help others, learning how to modify his systems to meet the unique needs of each type of disability he encountered. He recognizes that "one size definitely doesn't fit all," but has developed systems and techniques that can be easily modified to support the unique needs of each climber.
 
These techniques gave him the freedom from his own wheel chair.

​When he started working with other climbers with disabilities, he experienced their elation. The reward was beyond measure and it jump-started his quest to be a guide.

Adaptive climbing drag pants created by Rand Abbott that incorporates the Metolius Safe Teck Waldo climbing harness. All parts of this harness, including the gear loops, are fully rated. (Photo credit: Stefani Dawn)

Adaptive Climbing Clinic

Rand receives DMs and emails on a daily basis from veterans and non-veterans with disabilities. There are often messages of gratitude for the barriers he is breaking and encouragement to continue, but he is also presented with the question, "How can I do this too?"
 
Although Rand mentors people 1-on-1, the best way to reach more - to address the demand - is to host a clinic. This has been in the back of Rand's mind for years - hence applying to take an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course. When Rand kept getting rejected, he started to reach out to local Joshua Tree guide services to find someone who could share the vision.
 
Enter Erik Kramer-Webb and Teresa "Tee" Walsh, husband and wife team and co-owners of the California Climbing School.
 
Erik and Rand have crossed paths in Joshua Tree over the past decade, but their first in-depth interactions began when Rand reached out to find a local AMGA certified guide service willing developing a formal adaptive climbing clinic whose goal is to create independent adaptive climbers.
 
Erik and his team at the California Climbing School were all-in. Not only did Erik completely respect Rand's abilities as an adaptive climber, it aligned with his personal and business philosophy to bring climbing to marginalized communities.
 
For example, California Climbing School has a free, guide-run program to introduce local and regional, low-income families to climbing. They have even driven multiple hours to pick up and return families to their homes because they did not have transportation. California Climbing School also offers free and deeply discounted youth programs and partners with local schools to engage at-risk students in climbing.
 
After Erik met with Rand to learn more, he, wife and co-owner Tee, and his team of guides were willing to volunteer about 40+ hours of their time to receive additional training from Rand and to help with an adaptive climbing clinic there in Joshua Tree.

Rand Abbott (left) with the California Climbing School guides Erik Kramer-Webb, Andy Gorrill, and Ting Chin (left to right). This crew did an additional 40+ hours of training to learn Rand's adaptive climbing systems in preparation for the adaptive climbing workshop. (Photo credit: Stefani Dawn)

After many dedicated hours of training and planning, Rand and the California Climbing School hosted the first adaptive climbing clinic led by a paraplegic adaptive climber out at Joshua Tree National Park on November 12-13, 2022.
 
The goal of this clinic was skills development for all involved - the guides, coaches (experienced able-bodied climbers who want to learn adaptive climbing techniques), and the adaptive athletes. 

Skills development included: 

• How to put on chest and waist harnesses for various adaptive climbing needs, making sure there were no pressure points and allowing for proper blood circulation (which can be compromised depending on the injury);
• Configuring the set-up to best position the adaptive climber on the wall and to meet the adaptive climbers needs. (e.g. Should they use a pull-up bar or independent hand-held ascenders? Do they need a 1:1, 2:1, or 3:1 system? Are they coming to the clinic with climbing knowledge already and can do some mock leads, learning to use aid gear?)
• Setting up and using side-by-side lines - static lines for the guides and coaches to climb next to the adaptive athlete, and a static or dynamic line for the athlete depending on the need.
• Understanding the systems (and safety) well enough to make adjustments on the wall.
• When applicable, practicing putting the climber in a horizontal position on the wall to allow full rests and test and ensure good blood circulation.
• Identifying the best way for the climber to descend to prevent injury.

(Above: Click on photos to enlarge and see caption. Photo credits: Stefani Dawn)

With guides and coaches side-by-side with the participant, and Rand as the "ring-master," the clinic developed a team of trained guides and coaches who will be able to skillfully support future adaptive climbing clinics. It also broadened the number of people in the climbing community who have climbed with, can advocate for, and can support adaptive climbers more generally.
 
Most importantly though, each adaptive climber obtained a foundation of skills and personalized systems that will eventually enable them to climb independently. Some of the climbers, will need some follow-up training to reach the point where they can show up to any climbing group and say, "let's climb," but others who already came to the clinic with climbing experience prior to their injury, are now able to confidently take their climbing to a new level.

Learning to climb independently is one of the most important concepts in the approach to this clinic. Rand did not want this event to be a climbing demonstration, he envisioned as a way to:

(1) find a specific system that works best for each participant and

(2) teach that participant how to use that system in the presence of able-bodied climbers who may have never previously climbed with an adaptive climber.
 
Gaining independence to the highest degree possible is key to the mental and physical well-being of many people with disabilities.
 
Imagine this: A person in a wheelchair joins your climbing group, what would you do?

​Most people would feel lost and maybe even uncomfortable.

(Video: Rand Abbott shows adaptive climber Tanner Hopson, California Climbing School guide Ting Chin, and coach Greg Sidberry, how to set up the chest harness to allow Tanner to rest on the wall and help compensate for the lack of mass from two amputated legs. Video credit: Stefani Dawn)

Now imagine if that person in the wheelchair pulled out thier own gear, assembled it - perhaps asking for a little help here and there - and then told you exactly what needed to be done to help them get on the wall. Would you do it? How would you feel?
 
Many would be absolutely excited about it.
 
It would also likely completely shift perspectives of those seeing this independence, moving a frame of mind from "a person in a wheelchair is 'dependent'" into "this is a person with skills that I can learn from." It is empowering for all involved.
 
That is Rand's vision.
 
The workshop that occurred back in November was the first, so naturally, the team understood that lessons would be learned and refinements would be made for future events. Although adjustments have been identified, all involved felt it was a resounding success.
 
In debrief sessions, there were statement like:

I'm absolutely blown away by the experience I had this weekend coaching at the adaptive climbing clinic in Joshua Tree. The amount of laughs and skills learned are immeasurable."

- Joe Gaston
​Coach Adaptive Climbing Clinic and Co-founder with Rand of a new non-profit Adaptive Climbing Coalition

Fireside conversations during the adaptive climbing clinic at Joshua Tree National Park. (Photo Credit: Stefani Dawn)

As an adaptive athlete and one with quadriplegia, simply making it to the top of a climb on top rope, as seen in many adaptive clinics, means absolutely nothing to me.

The sense of accomplishment lies in the technical knowledge, vision, and ability to adapt via systems that are conducive to my specific neurological deficits - to pursue the sharp end safely and to be a worthy and highly knowledgeable partner to my able-bodied counter parts.

I've fought for nearly three years to be seen by my family, friends, and numerous climbing partners, as worthy of belaying, worthy of leading, and worthy of trust.

"You shouldn't" is the phrase I keep hearing, resulting in a very large chip on my shoulder.

Pandora's box was opened this weekend through this clinic, and I foresee big walls in the future for myself and several others, as well as the development of adaptive lead aid climbing and a truly adaptive SPI.

​This was simply the beginning. Many thanks to the coaches, guides, and families involved, ensuring a safe, productive, and fun environment."
 
- Jack Ryan, Adaptive Climber
​Walking quadreplegic, stroke survivor

Jack Ryan, who had just started trad climbing before experiencing the stroke that affected all four limbs of his body (he is a walking quadriplegic) put on gear to learn how to lead aid climb (Photo credit: Stefani Dawn)

Everyone understood that a two-day workshop would not achieve the ultimate independence goal for all participants, but it would provide a good foundation. Ultimately an individual system was dialed in for each climber. In terms of refinement, it was recognized this may need to be a three or four-day event instead of a two-day event, to allow each participant to repeatedly practice their system

Adaptive climber Jack Ryan learning how to lead aid climb. He is placing and testing his gear with a top rope back-up. (Photo credit: Stefani Dawn)

Although the participants, coaches, and guides received a packet Rand wrote about important elements of adaptive climbing, along with the skills we would be developing in the clinic, it was recognized a manual, which should be read ahead of time, is needed to fully maximize the experience. Rand is working on that manual.
 
The other next-step item is establishing a non-profit organization called the Adaptive Climbing Coalition. Rand and co-founder Joe Gaston (a fellow veteran and climber who was a coach at the clinic), are in the process of getting the 501c3 paperwork filed and have secured a website and some social media channels.
 
This non-profit will raise funds to be able to conduct adaptive climbing clinics, provide scholarships for people to attend future clinics, and purchase gear to support the clinics (it should be noted that a significant amount of gear - ropes, ascenders, aid ladders, and trad gear -  was donated by Metolius for this clinic). It will also be used to develop and advocate for an official adaptive guide certification.

(Video of Rand Abbott answering some questions from Maxwell Williams, a participant with a T5 spinal cord injury. This illustrates why it is so important to have certified guides with disabilities. Video credit: Stefani Dawn)

For now events will be focused in Joshua Tree, California and supported by the California Climbing School and other guide companies who receive the training. But, as the clinics get dialed in, and more guides and coaches are trained, Rand has a vision to be able to offer clinics in other locations in the U.S.
 
And, what about Rand's own official certification as an AMGA guide? Well, as a fully-certified AMGA Certified Rock Instructor, Erik is going to do the full Single Pitch Instructor training and testing for Rand. AMGA may not give the "official" certification to Rand, but he will have at least fulfilled all of the requirements.
 
Then, Rand is going to move forward with developing all the components needed for an adaptive guide certification, including the manual, skills, expectations, course, and testing required to receive such a certification. AMGA and/or PGCI would then be invited/have the opportunity to adopt it into their rock climbing certifications.
 
One would hope that these agencies would see the benefits of having such a certification. But, no matter what, Rand will find a way to go around - or just go over - the speed bumps thrown his way.

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ADAPTIVE CLIMBING CLINIC PARTICIPANTS

Leader

• Rand Abbott (IG: @rollingthroughlifewithasmile )

Adaptive Climbers: 

• Tanner Levi Hopson (IG: @tboneamputeez ) - a bilateral above the knee amputee and sepsis survivor
• Maxwell Williams (IG: @swagmaxter ) - T5 Spinal Cord Injury
• Jack Ryan(IG: @paralyzedtopeaks ) -  walking quadripligic stroke survivor
• Tionna Edwards - caterer/chef extraordinaire and below-the-knee amputee: (Email: [email protected]) 
  

Coaches: 

• Stefani Dawn, creator and editor of Common Climber and co-owner of Climb-On Maps (IG: @commonclimber , @climbonmaps ) 
• Joe Gaston, co-founder Adaptive Climbing Coalition (IG: @climbslikeagaston , @adaptiveclimbingcoalition )
• Greg Sidberry, AMGA certified Single Pitch Instructor (IG: @gregsideberry )
• Aaron Simon, physical therapist (IG: @onsightmovement )
• Rick Momsen, co-owner of Climb-On Maps (@climbonmaps )

 
Additional Support:

• Metolius (donated gear and provided gear discounts for participants and coaches) - www.metoliusclimbing.com/, IG: @metoliusclimbing
• Finch Adaptive Fabrication - provided offroad wheelchairs during the clinic - https://www.finchadaptivefabrication.com/​ IG: @finch314