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The leaves are falling off the trees. It’s that time of year again!
Autumn is climbing season on the sandstone cliffs in the New River Gorge National Park, West Virginia. When you top out and clip the anchors you're on top of the world - looking 1000-feet (300 meters) down to the river and trees. It’s always fun to hear the echos of the screaming raft customers going through the giant white water rapids, while watching a climber focus on delicate, balance-y moves. Technically the New River Gorge (NRG) has been a National River and Recreation Area since the 1970’s. Although there has always been a National Park Service presence here, it didn't officially become a National Park until December 2020. |
Nathan-Wright (nathan.wright.1426) is on "Legacy" at the New River Gorge (Photo Credit: Claire Wright)
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Erica-Boehm (IG: um_erca) is on "Under the Mllky Way (Photo Credit: Claire Wright, IG: clairewrightphoto)
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The NRG climbing community and the National Park Service have always shared a great relationship. The bolting wars that affected most of America’s climbing areas in the 1980’s did not affect the Gorge. Sport routes coexist next to traditional gear routes.
Now there is a moratorium on bolting, as most of the cliffs have been explored and climbed: The New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) is a group of local climbers that help address access issues and keep up with bolt replacement. There are approximately 3000 climbing routes in and around the gorge and the hard work of local climbers and volunteers have kept the anchors and gear in great shape. Trails have been maintained too, with a focus on minimal impact at the base of the cliff. The designation of being a National Park has brought more tourism and climbers, yet climbing pros have been visiting since the 1980’s -- J.B. Tribout, Marc Le Menestrel, Ron Kauk, Maura Kistler, Christian Griffith, Lynn Hill, Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, Kenny Parker, Scott Franklin, Jim Donini , Pat Goodman, John Sherman, Todd Skinner , Dan Osman, Mike Law, Flyin Brian McCray, Jonathan Siegrist , Jimmy Webb, Mike Williams, Chris Linder, Doug Reed, Sonnie Trotter, Gene Kistler , Alex Megos, and Chris Sharma - just to name-drop a few badass’s that pass through the NRG. They have all left the Gorge with either historic first ascents, free solos, or onsights. |
Andrew Gerlach (IG: andrewginsd) is on "Tobacco Road" at the New River Gorge, West Virginia (Photo Credit: Claire Wright, IG: clairewrightphoto)
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Once there was a great warm-up session with Chris Sharma when he was almost stuck on a 5.12 at the gorge.
“Welcome to the New River Gorge, bro!” Route developer, Porter Jarred yelled straight up the cliff at Chris. Chris was taking his time. He was locked into a tricky slab section on a classic called Jesus and Tequila (5.12b/25). The climb packs a punch. The 100-foot (30m) vertical sport climb has a section of tricky slab. Absent of any face holds, a climber has to smear their way upwards using style and creativity, from which Sharma learnt!
Climbing at the NRG usually means groveling on heinous reaches , fighting the pump on overhanging cave routes, or palm sweating slab moves. However we can’t talk about NRG without mentioning its world-class traditional climbs. A climber can trad-lead on four-star moderate face or crack climbs. Yet, most trad climbs come in a combo of both crack and face with solid protection. Or, if you are into this sort of thing, you can climb on some of the areas 5.13 r/x and 5.14r/x death trad routes. Throw in some 5.14c to 5.15a sport climbs and that sums up the "New".
Oh, and did I mention that NRG just became America’s newest National Park?
Although it officially became a National Park in 2020, since it was previously designated as a National River, there have been park rangers here since the time climbing started in the area. Fortunately, the gorge has always had a great working relationship with the National Park Service. One great example is legendary climbing hardman and park ranger Rob Turan.
“Welcome to the New River Gorge, bro!” Route developer, Porter Jarred yelled straight up the cliff at Chris. Chris was taking his time. He was locked into a tricky slab section on a classic called Jesus and Tequila (5.12b/25). The climb packs a punch. The 100-foot (30m) vertical sport climb has a section of tricky slab. Absent of any face holds, a climber has to smear their way upwards using style and creativity, from which Sharma learnt!
Climbing at the NRG usually means groveling on heinous reaches , fighting the pump on overhanging cave routes, or palm sweating slab moves. However we can’t talk about NRG without mentioning its world-class traditional climbs. A climber can trad-lead on four-star moderate face or crack climbs. Yet, most trad climbs come in a combo of both crack and face with solid protection. Or, if you are into this sort of thing, you can climb on some of the areas 5.13 r/x and 5.14r/x death trad routes. Throw in some 5.14c to 5.15a sport climbs and that sums up the "New".
Oh, and did I mention that NRG just became America’s newest National Park?
Although it officially became a National Park in 2020, since it was previously designated as a National River, there have been park rangers here since the time climbing started in the area. Fortunately, the gorge has always had a great working relationship with the National Park Service. One great example is legendary climbing hardman and park ranger Rob Turan.
Valentin Jaumouillé (IG: valuprising) is on "Toxic Hueco" in the New River Gorge, West Virginia (Photo Credit: Claire Wright)
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Rob hiked and saw all of the south’s steepest sandstone. He then told climbers where the good climbs were -- Rob Turan needs a Wikipedia page he’s such an amazing dude.
Rob ushered in a great legacy of climber-park ranger dialogue. Back in the 1980’s he hiked the entire 50-miles of cliffs around here before most 1980’s climbers put on their first pair of Lycra tiger print climbing pants (Google 1980’s sport climbing fashion if this doesn't ring a bell). As you can see from the list provided above, most of the rock climbing greats have been here and Rob was belaying or present for most of original hard first ascents. The cliff called the Cirques of Unclimbable’s or just (The Cirque) is one example of an amazing cliff in the gorge. The cliff resembles the Grampians in Australia - colorful overhanging bright orange rock highlighted in contrast with dark colored streaks. The Cirque is a climber's and a climbing photographer's dream. Many a climbing video and guidebook cover have featured this wall. Now back to the Sharma story. Chris flashed the 5.12 trickslab of Jesus and Tequila after hanging out for a bit. He then proclaimed he liked NRG. Chris proceeded to work on a thirty-year-old project that had never been climbed - a blank 100-foot vertical yellow-colored face climb. On the crux he fell four or five times and eventually yelled from above, “I think I have it figured out. I think this might work.” Then Sharma did a move I had never even seen before. As he climbed up onto credit-card edges, with both hands, he dynoed one hand down four-feet to the left, while simultaneously letting go of the credit card edges dynoing again with a full body reach to another set of edges. After that, Chris wanted to save his energy and lowered to ground. For his "rest" he went on a legendary on-sight blitz of other routes. The blank-faced credit-card dyno route he worked on became a 5.14 masterpiece named Hoax of Clocks. |
Katharina Fritzler (IG: @kitty.kath_fritz) is on "Mighty Dog" at the Lower Meadow, New River Gorge, West Virginia (Photo Credit: Jessica King)
Many thanks to the following people who have contributed significantly to the climbing development of the New River Gorge: |
Louis Kutyla enjoying the New and a mid-climb ledge (Photo Credit: Claire Wright)
BIOS
Mat "the brewdawg" Brewer
(Short Bio, IG etc.)
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Claire Wright, Photographer
I have been taking pictures since I was a teenager and started climbing (actually even before). I was in the Alps with my parents and a local teen took me for my first climb. There was no gym at the time (yeah, I am that old) and I lived in Northern France, not the best area for climbing when you cannot drive. I had to wait for the first gyms to open and my eighteenth birthday, so I could pass my driving test. I finished school in Southern France where I climbed very regularly and took pictures for friends when I was not climbing. Pictures are nice memories.
I moved to the U.S. to work for the National Institutes for Health after obtaining my PhD. I met my husband more than 20 years ago as he was climbing in GreatFalls, Virginia. My older stepson is also a climber, and we still enjoy climbing together at the New River Gorge, which is our home crag. We also climb in France when Covid does not get in the way.
I got injured climbing three years ago, which helped me ramp up my photography. I was accepted as member of an art gallery in Bethesda, Maryland, had a few art collaborations and started selling pictures. This year, I finally have a website, and a picture of my stepson (Nathan Wright) in the New River Gorge Topo guide.
My main inspiration is nature and climbing is obviously a great way to experience nature. I have just returned from a trip to the New, where I was successively cold, wet, wet and cold, then warm, then warm and exhausted by the climbing and the camping experience. My hands are chewed up by the sandstone but it is a wonderful feeling.
Instagram: @clairouw71 and @clairewrightphoto
Website: www.clairewrightphotos.com
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Jessica King, Photographer
The New River Gorge made me fall in love with rock climbing. I made weekend trips from Pennsylvania for years until I eventually made the big move. From the start I felt mesmerized by the beautiful landscape along with the culture and kindness of the community. I have met some beautiful souls along the way, which only confirms how truly magical this place really is. I’m so grateful to have this opportunity to come to this area and feel right at home along with the mountains. Cheers to endless adventures and love!!
Instagram: @Jesslaurenking
(Short Bio, IG etc.)
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Claire Wright, Photographer
I have been taking pictures since I was a teenager and started climbing (actually even before). I was in the Alps with my parents and a local teen took me for my first climb. There was no gym at the time (yeah, I am that old) and I lived in Northern France, not the best area for climbing when you cannot drive. I had to wait for the first gyms to open and my eighteenth birthday, so I could pass my driving test. I finished school in Southern France where I climbed very regularly and took pictures for friends when I was not climbing. Pictures are nice memories.
I moved to the U.S. to work for the National Institutes for Health after obtaining my PhD. I met my husband more than 20 years ago as he was climbing in GreatFalls, Virginia. My older stepson is also a climber, and we still enjoy climbing together at the New River Gorge, which is our home crag. We also climb in France when Covid does not get in the way.
I got injured climbing three years ago, which helped me ramp up my photography. I was accepted as member of an art gallery in Bethesda, Maryland, had a few art collaborations and started selling pictures. This year, I finally have a website, and a picture of my stepson (Nathan Wright) in the New River Gorge Topo guide.
My main inspiration is nature and climbing is obviously a great way to experience nature. I have just returned from a trip to the New, where I was successively cold, wet, wet and cold, then warm, then warm and exhausted by the climbing and the camping experience. My hands are chewed up by the sandstone but it is a wonderful feeling.
Instagram: @clairouw71 and @clairewrightphoto
Website: www.clairewrightphotos.com
++++++
Jessica King, Photographer
The New River Gorge made me fall in love with rock climbing. I made weekend trips from Pennsylvania for years until I eventually made the big move. From the start I felt mesmerized by the beautiful landscape along with the culture and kindness of the community. I have met some beautiful souls along the way, which only confirms how truly magical this place really is. I’m so grateful to have this opportunity to come to this area and feel right at home along with the mountains. Cheers to endless adventures and love!!
Instagram: @Jesslaurenking